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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Good luck. I like BMWs and the m5x or s5x series of engines, but I'm not brave enough to tackle a N series. Thermostat, water pump or nearly anything is an easy job on a m5x

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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I just found this post on bimmer
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2150414-E61-water-pump-and-thermostat-DIY&highlight=thermostat

quote:

I just changed the water pump and thermostat on my 530Xi Touring (120K miles). There is a nice video from Bavauto on this DIY. However, it seems that the Touring (at least the 2007 model that I have) is a bit different. below are few items to take note.

In order to get access to the all the hose clamps, you don't need to take off the stabilizer bar (it will be obvious once you look under the car). However, you do need to take off the protective aluminium plate (six 17 mm hex bolts).

All of the hose clamps are accessible from the bottom, except one that can be reached from the top using a screwdriver...hope you don't have big fat hands!! All hoses that have hose clamps on them use 6 mm hex or flat-head screw driver.

The order which i took things apart was...
1. Remove the two quick disconnect hoses to front and top of thermostat and drain coolant.
2. Remove the two bolts connecting the thermostat to the water pump (Two 10 mm hex bolts). This will allow you to move the thermostat up and away to get access to top bolt on the water pump.
3. Three Torx bolts (E-12 i believe). Remove the top bolt on the water pump using a universal and extension. The two lower bolts are easy once you move the wire and wire holder out of the way.
4. loosening the hose clamps will really test your patients. There are Three in total. Two are used to connect the U-hose (I replaced this as well; #1 below) connecting the water pump to thermostat, which one is accessible from the bottom using a long screwdriver going by the steering rack, the other can be accessed from the front-end just above the engine chassis (i could use a 6 mm hex with universal and extension). The third clamp is to connect the hose from the water pump to the engine (#13 below), which is accessible from the bottom by the steering rack. I just wished I knew ahead of time to buy and replace this hose as well since I had it opened up. The hose was very soft to touch... i hope it doesn't leak soon.
5. To take all the thermostat and water pump out, I had to remove the mounting bolt on the steering line and just move it out of the way.

In putting it together, remember to make sure you have all your lines on correctly, and tight. Don't forget to transfer your old wire holder from the old pump to the new pump. Tighten the water pump before you tighten the thermostat on the pump, otherwise you won't be able to get to top bolt on the water pump.

There isn't much room to get access to the hose clamps, and there isn't much room to maneuver wrenches or parts in place....so be patient and you'll get there. I was stumped for a bit trying to figure out what hose goes where and how to get access to the clamps. I think it took me 3 hours to take it apart and probably another 3 hours to put it all back together. Now that I know how it all goes together, I think i can do it in half the time now.

The new water pump and T-stat did fix my whirling fan issue on cold start, which seems to be the fist signs of failing water pump.

I wish i had taken pics for you...but at least hope the write up helps some of you.
Maybe check and see if that bavauto video is still there?
https://www.bavauto.com/tech-info/
I haven't ever been able to pull tech or vid from their site (such a pain to search), but searching BMW forums and places that have sometimes given me a direct link to a particular bavauto page as always worked well. Otherwise pelican tech usually has some sort of write up with photos
And of course start browsing realoem.com for parts and very rudimentary diagrams

It's worth looking this up because in my quick research about e60/61, expect $1000-2000 if you farm it out. This was the era where BMW ownership was ridiculous "german engineering", and the cars being ugly anyway :v:

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jun 13, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
What did you use on the paint with the front door because seriously most tips I've seen suggested 1500grit sanding, which is something I wouldn't want to do on a newer car even if it had a bad orange peel effect.
I did the 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sanding on my 2005 falcon ute because I was respraying it myself anyway, but I wouldn't do it on a car I wasn't already respraying.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jun 13, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah that's pretty good stuff. I used that myself to get rid of any sanding marks I left on my ute.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Seminal Flu posted:

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32862286377.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32862286377&

Stupid cheap, stupid good.

It IS a coating, though, so proper preparation and application is critical.

I'm interested. What is the proper prep? Searching just gave me engrish.
Can you use it on something you have just compounded and polished? Or is it strip everything back with fairy/dawn dishwashing liquid first?

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

That all seems kinda redundant, whats the point of compound/polish if you're gonna wipe everything down with alcohol? Is that just if the paint is in crappy condition?
I was mainly asking because I know my car is waxed enough that a ceramic coating will not stick, and also because this is a semi permanent coating I would want to fix the paint as much as possible before coating. Currently don't compound it or polish much as the paint is 28 years old and thin - I just keep it very coated/waxed which I would need to strip.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I was hoping your update was going to be good news, but it seems you're further down the well.
If your charger overheated it's got to be short rather than a grounding issue right?
E: or maybe not because your charger should be fused?

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Jul 5, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I've had one since the 12a turbo rotary I had in 1993. Welcome to the future.

Glad you got it running meatpimp. What caused the fuse to blow? Just IMO but that doesn't look like an original BMW fuse either, so it's happened before I think.

Also it's pretty funny BMW still have an analogue style mpg meter like they did in the 80s. E: and that screen printing on the indicator stalk is almost exactly the same too.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jul 5, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah but old toyota/lexus just don't look as good. I got my budget 525 to eventually do a budget m54b30 swap into. I don't mind the old lexus as a neighbour has a ls400 and we're like "1990 only old cars still standing in a sea of SUVs " crew though)
But if I had spare cash (like, house was paid of kind of cash), I'd probably buy a 540 to use as a daily while I 1/2 jzgte swapped the 525 instead and while searching around for the perfect m5 as well.
A boring cheap reliable car in australia is a falcon barra

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jul 22, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Jesus, all this poo poo that has to be known is just mind boggling. The average BMW owner that has no clue about cars just trades them in because this poo poo would absolutely drain your wallet at the dealership.
That's why they are sold cheap s/h (like really cheap, cheaper than a domestic or Japanese car) and is what makes them good for a s/h buy if you can work on them yourself. E: Also they sell millions so heaps of aftermarket support and different vendors all around the world for parts , so from my perspective - more support than my domestics and Japanese.

E:
VVV
For me it is. Hard to get aussie or local parts for a 28 y/o local domestic market only car, but as it's a euro, parts available from UK, europe, Asia and USA. If I had an aussie car then too bad and nowhere else sold them.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Jul 25, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
In the BMW thread he said $1700.

All this BS is for EPA mileage figures: E: well euro efficiency standards too, just got to edit that in so people don't think I'm blaming USA
drat, now I know why some people are sticklers for m30s, m50s, or just lsx/1.5jz/rb25 swap the things - J/K I already knew and one of those options is already in my plans.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 4, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I might give it a go on my interior then. I mainly bought mine to put on windscreen and door rubbers to stop the rot on my e34. For my interior I just used meguires interior cleaner and left it at that because I hate long term effect you can get from protectant sprays that end up greasy - attracting dirt, or foggy on the glass due to evaporation.
At least it's not another product to buy - as I already have it. I've spent hundreds in the last year alone. My last buy was meguires plastic detailer which was great in some places. My greying headlight surrounds and windshield cowl trim for wipers and cabin air are now both black coloured plastic again.
E: my next buy is going to be scratch-x. After polishing my car (took me 6 hrs of clean, polish, detail and wax), I parked it in the sun and saw a shitload of swirl scratches - though mainly on the boot/trunk lid - doesn't show up everywhere because my car is white I guess.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Aug 25, 2018

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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Lexus really looked at the pre 1992-ish euro cars and built from there as a starting point. Lexus are the outliers, no other company (japan, US or AU domestic) could get into the euros and compete, especially trying to get close to the power and modern euro emissions that the euros did.
If you have a lexus then congrats, it's probably the only better car than a euro but the sedans are grandpa looking.*

But anyway, lots of engineering down for price or over-complicating things for emissions etc happened after 94 so I wouldn't own a new euro either on my budget.
Pre 95 euros are better for reliability, you just have to bring your own turbo and skip all the emissions and stuff (seriously this is the biggest issue all stuff like emission controls to meet euro standards, canbus shortcuts etc).
The basis of older ones are solid they just doesn't have enough power or fuel efficiency to be fun like meatpimps is. . But on a pre 94 simpler euro just BYO turbo (the factory seems to have forgot it), pretty much everything else is reliable. I haven't had to even change a lightbulb or ignition coil and it's all 28 years old.


*ps The only person I talk to about cars that lives on my block has a lexus - they are cool in their own way and I thought about getting one as I wanted a 4dr that wasn't a domestic.
I still want to chat to the barra boys around the corner E: If you remember AA I made a joke about a chat up line for guys with a workshop and lift. They had heaps of aussie ford falcons in the yard and now it seems they are doing something interesting with toyota chasers (maybe barra? maybe they are into 1jz as well?).

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Dec 3, 2018

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