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It's not that much further down, I'm sure. 
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Jul 3, 2018 23:06
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EVERYWHERE 
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Cached Money posted:Meatpimp, get INPA and check codes and shadow codes with that, it also has some very useful diagnostic tools for checking rough idle. Also check so that all the air intake hoses are good and non leaky. Does this engine have DISA? Check the flap and gaskets if it does. What is with the alphabet soup of BMW software -- INPA / ISTA / Rheingold (I think that's ISTA/D) / Daten / WinKFP / etc? I'm used to GM stuff, where there's just a TECH2 needed or poo poo like that. I'm attempting to set up ISTA this morning, looks to be a good tool. Edit: No DISA, it's an N54, so it's got all the other potential failures, though.  Edit 2: gently caress, I can't even get to the game. I'm stuck in the game behind the game which is getting the loving software setup. There's a decade of revisions, all talked about in every loving indexed forum on the internet. So even with the most current one tracked down, finding out information is an exercise in futility. Of course there's nothing standard and even the "best" looking ones are kludges filled with registry hacks and who the gently caress knows what. At least I'm using a spare laptop so I'm not loving up my main poo poo. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 14:07
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blindjoe posted:I also found this garbage pirate software impossible to load, I ended up getting it to work but didn't do anything with it. I put it all on a Win7 VM. You need your definitions, which for the e61 was something like 7 gb file. It contained the information for every e60/e61 vin made. If you don't have that, it won't work. Thanks, I'm still digging. From what I can see, ISTA is a current, native Windows program that is widely available, but it's got many, many versions. I just need a basic diagnostic, so I'm trying to run the latest that seems to be "standard," with that, I'm using the Rheingold link from here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1023698 I've followed that to the letter, followed by the setup from: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936877 But I can't get it to talk to the car. Looks like others are having the same issue, but it relies on an EDIABAS backend for communication and I have no idea how to troubleshoot that. It's supposed to just work, but so was the MHD tune. I'm trying to find out with an enet cable will work with an E61, but even that is a loving rabbit hole when trying to find a simple yes or no answer. Edit: looks like the answer is "no." Awesome. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 18:41
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I wonder why BMW made it so difficult Almost like they don't want people working on their own cars. Really makes you think.
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Jul 4, 2018 19:34
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Progress.
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Jul 4, 2018 20:48
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Mod request: Please change tag to 
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Jul 4, 2018 23:28
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doogle posted:I also have a full set of N54 injectors and a HPFP (used) that were replaced with newer revisions but didn't fix the problem (on my car it was the in tank fuel pump). You can have all that stuff for $50 to cover shipping if you want it. Seminal Flu posted:Mod request: Please change tag to Last night was weird. I put the charger on at about 5PM because I had been trying various things through the day. At about 9PM I went out to disconnect the charger and the rear lights were on. And nothing else. AT ALL. Because the car was fully dead and the charger off because it overheated. I put the rear seats down and crawled into the back (because the hatch and hatch glass are both electric  ) to disconnect the battery and say "gently caress it" for the night.But then I got to thinking... there's got to be a major wiring or ground issue. That issue may be causing the problems. I've noticed that even when I've got the charger on, connected to the factory terminals under the hood, that there's a pretty significant voltage drop between the terminals and what the charger is putting out. Something's fucky. At least I have a direction of where to start looking. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 11:15
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Fo3 posted:I was hoping your update was going to be good news, but it seems you're further down the well. I don't know... I've got the charger hooked directly up to the battery, which is removed from the car's system... because...  There was a weird box in the ECU area of the plenum that I looked at and thought was empty. Nope. It has fuses. Fuses for the DME. And... I've got to wait until the battery is charged, but most of my issues are with the DME, and there's a DME fuse blown, so... fingers crossed.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:24
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Adiabatic posted:Hopefully that's the cause and not a symptom of it. Guess you'll find out soon! We'll see. I'm just sitting here jerking off waiting for the battery to get charged. It started out at 10.8V  It's up to 12.25V, and I don't want to try anything without the battery being fully charged, because being an impatient monkey is what got me into this situation in the first place...
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Jul 5, 2018 16:30
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Jul 5, 2018 18:46
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Yes, but how does it drive? Runs and drives fine. All codes were gone before I got out of the driveway. Plugs and coils are to be delivered today. We'll see how that goes. Right now I'm happy to not have a 4000lb paperweight. On that note, the plugs for the N54 require a thinwall socket that is just the cutest thing.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:01
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Fo3 posted:Glad you got it running meatpimp. What caused the fuse to blow? Just IMO but that doesn't look like an original BMW fuse either, so it's happened before I think. I don't know what caused the fuse to blow, but it happened at the exact moment the MHD app was flashing back to stock. I think the battery was low, too, and I had a charger hooked up (per app instructions), so I'd guess there was some weird fault that happened. Hopefully just the once. I hate the loving mpg gauge, and would rather just have a proper loving coolant temp gauge. Just like I'd rather have a loving oil dipstick. Over-engineering to force reliance on the dealership is bullshit. And man, what a difference a day makes. The coils and plugs showed up and I tossed them in. Most things looked good, a little bit of oil in a couple wells, but nothing major. The thing is... I put the coils and plugs in, started it up and got the same misfire in cylinder 1. And I knew what it was. Some monkey has been in there before and replaced a 3" section of wire going to the #1 coil. However, that wire and the wire next to it both had the insulation stripped. I am guessing that they got pinched under the plastic cover. I stuck some electrical tape on them for now, but I'll have to get a permanent solution soon. BUT... with new coils and plugs there are no codes and even at 93* this thing MOVES. I got traction control to kick in on a flat straight road. For a big 4wd car, that's something. It is reminding me a lot of my modded Forester XT. Nice pile of parts:
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Jul 5, 2018 21:05
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Rhyno posted:Hooray a happy ending! Dagen H posted:And the car's fixed too!  At the same time!?I looked at the old coils today, every one had a late-2008 date code. So they were originals. The plugs... they can't be original, BMW suggests a 50k replacement, but I don't know. The previous owner promised me a set of records from the BMW dealership, but he's on vacation until next week. I hope he produces them, it'll give me a better view of the car. From looking at some of the computer stuff, the car has had 10 oil changes where the interval was reset, but the PO said that he sometimes took it to Valvoline where they didn't reset the system. Worst-case is that the car went about 15k between oil changes. That makes me cringe, but it's in the recommended schedule. Sway bar end links should show up today, that should get rid of a pesky rattle from the left front. It's nice to be able to think about little things, I hope that continues, but this week was a big hit to my confidence in the car!
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Jul 6, 2018 15:37
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Wow man, you're almost out of the well good poo poo. I reference you to the case of "meatpimp vs. stolen-and-stripped modded Miata" that I bought sight-unseen from a goon and shipped it up from Florida to Ohio. That ended up being one of the best and fastest cars I've ever had. Probably won't get that lucky this time, but here's hoping.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:38
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TrueChaos posted:Out of curiosity, did you figure out what that fuse was for specifically, or was it just general DME power? Yep, same thing as the video. The fuse was a really strange one. It is a DME fuse that, from the wiring diagram, seems to run a number of the inputs. Including the vanos stuff and the throttle. So all of that stuff was dead, but I could still read/write to the DME fine. After I fixed it, I told the MHD guy that you can see from the logs that the DME fuse blew at the exact moment that his app was rewriting the DME and he said that fuses blow all the time, it has nothing to do with his app. 
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Jul 7, 2018 08:54
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doogle posted:I have an edibas D-CAN cable you can have that works too. Just sent a paypal payment for the parts, you're awesome! Sgt Fox posted:Someone made a VM of all the useful software here: Two great resources, thanks! It does look like the E60/61 can be coded the same way, I'll look into it. Seat Safety Switch posted:I would be surprised if software alone managed to pop a 30A fuse since I'd assume that's all serial-chip logic level. Maybe the DME was in some kind of weird state before it started loving with it. I'm wrestling with that one... I had no DME errors prior to that app. I directly used the app to change the DME and, at the exact same time a DME fuse popped... are you saying it's coincidence and not the fault of the app? (Honestly asking, I'm struggling to figure out what actually happened) Edit: This is similar to the fuse box mine was in, labeled the same, but without the 20A/30A labels. In the dark plenum, I looked at this and it seemed like an empty fuse box, I'd never seen a fuse box with such a deep cover. Even once I got it out, it took a minute to even figure out how to get it open, the 5 fuses are captive in a holder and they all plug into the system as one unit. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 18:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Good tech Sgt Fox posted:The MHD flasher does some weird stuff over the coms bus. Whenever I flash mine, the radio won't respond to any buttons on the front panel, only the steering wheel controls. The problem persists until the car has been turned off for at least half an hour, which is when the car fully shuts itself off. It worried me the first time and now I've just learned to deal with it whenever I flash the DME. Well, another couple days and the basics seem to be okay. Still getting the 2E7C BSD code that makes the oil sensor wonky. Looking through every instance I can find on the forums shows that the only solution after the basics are checked is a DME replacement. Again never saw that code until the instant I installed the MHD stuff. Too much of a coincidence for me to buy. There's some state of the DME that they didn't account for that hosed my stuff. Anyway, on to other stuff. I took all the undertray stuff off today to start to troubleshoot the oil leaks. Looks like the valve cover gasket is leaking pretty good. The trays were filled with gunk, so whatever it is has been leaking for some time. Only a slight bit of damp at the engine/transmission mating area, so I think the rear main seal is okay. If ignored, can the valve cover gasket leaks get pretty significant with these?
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Jul 10, 2018 16:59
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Just change the valve cover gasket how hard can it be doogle posted:I'd replace the valve cover gasket (it really isn't that bad, it is tedious though) and install the rb pcv (https://www.rbturbo.com/rbpcv). That's my plan, I was just wondering if that could be the cause of the leaks showing under the car... this valve cover gasket has been neglected and leaking for a while... could that be dripping onto the ground after it's gunked up the undertray?
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Jul 10, 2018 17:48
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doogle posted:Yes it can be, and you should also check the oil filter housing for leaks as that is another common trouble spot. The oil filter housing gasket is an easy replacement too. Yep, that's leaking too. It's on my list. Do I need to drop/loosen the intake manifold for the oil filter housing? Or can I get to that back bolt with creative toolwork? Edit: nevermind, I looked it up, intake's got to come off... with that, the valve cover gasket and the pcv, I'll just plan to take it down for a bit and do all that stuff. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jul 10, 2018 |
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Jul 10, 2018 17:56
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I've seen oil all over a car before with the only leak being the VC gasket so it's certainly possible, you just start where you know it's leaking, then it's process of elimination and deciding if the next leak is worth fixing or not lol. That's pretty much the course I've charted. On the maintenance front, I've still got to change the fluid in the transmission, transfer case and diffs. Front diff is no problem. Rear diff doesn't have a drain, so it has to be pumped out and re-filled. No biggie. Transmission is a bit of work. Have to drop the driveshaft from the transfer case to the front axle, but there's room. Plastic pan is also the filter and gets replaced. Transfer case is an issue. To get to the fill plug, you have to drop the exhaust. This exhaust has been together for a LONG time. Taking it apart at the downpipe joint would be an exercise in anger. So... I'm thinking of doing something dumb. But, if it's dumb and works, it's not dumb, right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xgw2Iq8oDpc
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Jul 10, 2018 21:19
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STR posted:Don't you own a car with a 1MZ-FE? You should know just how much oil can be pissed out of valve cover gaskets by now (hint: IT'S ALL OF THE OIL). Yeah, I know that motor, but I don't know the N54 that much... definitely bad valve cover gasket on this one though... added to the list. Got a box full of goodies from doogle today, thanks! Hopefully I'll never have to use them. The nice thing is that the injectors are index 10, which is what's in my car now.
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Jul 11, 2018 21:25
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Big maintenance order today. Valve cover gasket. Oil filter housing gaskets. Transmission pan/filter Transmission oil. Front diff oil. Rear diff oil. Transfer case oil. Coolant. *RB PCV valve already ordered. Just need to either get more oil, or recycle the stuff I just put in. I'll make that call once I get the valve cover off and see if it's good, or needs a sacrificial cleaning round of oil. That should be a solid couple days work. Hopefully that takes care of the oil leaks, and knowing the maintenance is done will allow me to really hammer on it a bit, as I determine if we're good for a long-haul with this car. It'd be great if everything checks out. We'll see.
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Jul 12, 2018 23:04
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Hey... did anyone call "cracked valve cover"? If so, you were right. I'm glad I was looking things over before my parts come on Tuesday, so I had time to get one ordered. So the valve cover replacement will be after oil filter housing and fluids change.
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Jul 14, 2018 23:13
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Big Taint posted:It’s like playing BMW Bingo, which well known issue will pop up next? And everybody wins, because it's ALL of them!
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Jul 15, 2018 15:14
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Im getting ready to order some of the ceramic coating, the website you posted says Hot Sale 30ML 9H Car hardness super hydrophobic Glass Coating Car Liquid ceramic Coat Auto Paint Care Durability Anti-corrosion and then shows two different types of bottles but just one add to cart button. Are they both the same thing basically? I'm only seeing one -- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot...2862286377.html I'd say get two and you'll have enough for at least 2 coats on both, plus a bit extra. It took 10 days to get me 6 boxes from this seller.
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Jul 16, 2018 01:14
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QuarkMartial posted:Totally throwing some on my wife's car later this month, and my truck too. Just be careful and take your time with small sections and good lighting. I've got a couple blotcby areas where I didn't wipe it off fully. Nothing super noticable, but I can see it at an angle in the garage.
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Jul 16, 2018 01:34
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Can you put it on in direct sunlight? I wouldn't. I'd worry that it would flash off too quickly.
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Jul 16, 2018 06:25
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One more word of caution with the ceramic coatings -- I'm pretty cavalier about doing things. I always know there's a chance of getting in over my head. I've done detailing stuff for long enough that I'm pretty comfortable with it, so I may make it sound easier than it may be? Either way -- the ceramic coating is a coating, not a wax. It's not going to come off. So be careful, take your time. Prep and use properly.
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Jul 16, 2018 13:32
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Ok, well......What can happen if you gently caress it up? And there's really no way to remove it? I find that kind of hard to imagine.....So it's like some sort of clear coat or something? McTinkerson posted:I can confirm that ceramic coatings should be treated with respect. If you make a mistake, the only way it's coming off is with wet sanding. Yes, it can come off, but wet sanding is the way. I have a couple places on the BMW where there is some blotching, stemming from me being an impatient monkey and doing too large of a section at a time. This resulted in me doing an incomplete removal after the coating flashed off. It's not a big deal, but it is something I could point out to someone looking critically. Note that this is going to be much more easily seen on a dark car. I don't see anything at all on the Escalade or Juke, both of which are white variants. But as McTinkerson sais... sooooo worth it. Also, I finished up the coating on the BMW last week and I totally cheated. I was going to get a DrColorchip kit to take care of the road rash. Instead, I used some Zymol black wax and it made the rash just about disappear. I immediately went over it with the ceramic coating and man... it looks almost perfect. I know I suck and there haven't been any good pictures lately. As soon as I get the maintenance done, I'll do some glamour shots.
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Jul 16, 2018 16:47
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Oh sweet jesus. It's bad enough that the car has had just-what's-specified maintenance, but does it really have to have been done by lovely mechanics, too? The PO's list of what has been replaced seems to be pretty true. The turbos look nice and shiny, new control arms, waterpump is new, etc. And he had the work done at a dealer, which is great... but do dealers employ poo poo mechanics? There's a coolant hose that is clamped to a flange that bolts to the head. Inside is a little nipple with an o-ring. Well, that has to come off to do the oil filter housing gasket. As I was taking it off, it didn't feel right... because whoever was in there before broke the nipple and shoved it all back in there and buttoned it up, without even the o-ring. That explains some of the grunge around that component. Here's a pic. The tip of the nipple is sitting on top of the valve cover, the rest is at the end of the hose.  And it gets better. I had to pull the intake manifold to get to a different bolt on the oil filter housing. The good news is that the 5-series has a shitload more room on that side than the 3-series. The bad news is that my intake chambers are grunged right the gently caress up. It needs walnut blasted really, really badly. It's going to be down for a while as I get a new flange and stuff to do the walnut blasting. At least I got the transmission fluid and front differential fluid changed, so there's some progress. Oil filter housing was just nasty. Obviously leaking all over. Valve cover comes tomorrow and the existing one is definitely leaking, too. Hopefully I can make this thing dry up a bit.
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Jul 18, 2018 18:09
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Applebees Appetizer posted:What's the intake made of? If it's not plastic you can probably use the oven cleaner method. Might work on the plastic ones too, idk. Intake is plastic, but that's off and easy to clean. The problem is inside the head. GDI motors don't have the continual gasoline mist continually cleaning the intake tract and upper valve area. So... they build up with serious carbon crap until airflow is impacted and misfires start. It's a serious design flaw that a lot of GDI motors have. Instead of walnut blasting, I'm going to try the CRC intake tract cleaner... crossing fingers.
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Jul 19, 2018 01:13
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Sgt Fox posted:Honestly walnut blasting on the n54 isn't bad. Took me 3-4 hours taking everything apart. You buy a special shop vac nozzle from BMW to remove the shells. I'm not averse to walnut blasting, but looking at the level of grunge in my ports, it needs some mechanical cleaning first (scrape that poo poo out). If I had the walnut media and the parts ready to go, I'd do that. However, it'd take until next week to get the stuff here to do that. Instead, I'm going to take my time and let the CRC stuff soften the crud and work it out that way. Unfortunately, the local Advance only had one can of the CRC stuff in stock, so I'm waiting on that, too. extreme_accordion posted:That this is even a maintenance item just makes me shake my head. It really is an extremely bad design choice, and one that most auto makers are making currently. Now that I've seen how nasty it is, I'll be using a can of the CRC stuff into the intake tract as preventative in the Juke, and I'll suggest it to my brother for his GTI and mom for her Beetle... loving hell, a lot of our cars have that stupid design.
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Jul 19, 2018 15:10
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Sgt Fox posted:
That's why I went for the CRC stuff, this car has 250k km, and the poo poo is STICKY. But I've got it in 3 cylinders right now and the CRC stuff, even cold, does react quickly with it and loosens it right up. I'm going to just let it sit and work after I initially scrape the crap off the walls. I'll suck it out later, then do it again and see how it does. I'll try to grab a before pic of one of the cylinders, but I already tackled the 3 worst ones. They are WAY worse than yours, you can only see about 40% of the shaft of the valve, the rest is encased. Edit: Here's one that's representative. Not the worst, but close. I didn't start on this one because it's open.  And this is with one dose of the CRC stuff and a bit of scraping:  I've got some brushes on order that'll let me get it scrubbed nicely clean. It's an interesting project. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jul 19, 2018 |
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Jul 19, 2018 15:50
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Larrymer posted:EGR doesn't help but PCV is pretty bad on some engines. You can't just dump it on the highway like the old days, so the engine is forced to eat it. Catch can would also help but doubt it would eliminate it completely either. PCV is definitely an issue. doogle had a bead on it and I ordered a modified unit https://www.rbturbo.com/rbpcv Good thing too, because a bad valve was part of this car's problem. The existing pcv valve (I'm sure it's original) allows air through both ways... so it's not much of a valve anymore. Also, there was a flapper valve in the breather hose next to the pcv valve on the valve cover, and it was stuck, too. A good carb cleaner bath got it swinging properly again. On the valve cleaning front, that CRC stuff is going to work for everything I need. When working with closed valves, you can spray in a pool of cleaner into each valve and let it sit while you scrub the rest of the area. Then, I taped up a metal baster nozzle to a shopvac and it cleans it up right now. I'm out of CRC juice until Saturday, so I just gave all the ports a bit of a spray and it can sit until then, letting the juice do its work.
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Jul 19, 2018 20:35
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Larrymer posted:Those guys sound like they drink their own piss. Heh. Yeah, that does sound pretty pompous. I didn't read their copy, I just went with something I saw referenced as standard on multiple N54 discussions, then doogle pointed it out and just ordered it. If it works, I'm happy, even if they're a bit douche-y. I just got the eBay valve cover. Holy poo poo, I don't know how they do it some times. This thing weighs about 5 pounds, is fully loaded with about 2 dozen captive fasteners and a fully-fitted valve cover gasket. All for $75 delivered. That's pretty remarkable. It'll get put on tomorrow.
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Jul 19, 2018 21:32
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No work on car yesterday. Stupid kids took up all my time and energy. Today, hopefully this is as deep as I'm getting:  The inside looked good. No sludging of note, a few little bits in zero flow areas. Timing chain guides looked good. New valve cover is installed. New RB PCV valve is installed. New fitting on coolant hose into head is installed. Oil refilled. Coolant Refilled. Just need Amazon to deliver the rest of the CRC juice and I'll get the rest of the cylinders cleaned, then time to button the motherfucker up. I took on too many jobs at once with this one, I'm burned out with car stuff.
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Jul 21, 2018 17:43
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doogle posted:The good news is you might be done for a while after all that! I didn't really have too many issues with my N54, even at double the stock HP, but I got rid of it after 100k so you're into the unknown for me maintenance requirement-wise. Did you have to deal with the loving coolant hose that goes into the head? I said earlier that I found it broken inside and ordered a new one. Well, I got the new one, cut the plastic fitting off of the new hose and clamped it to the old one. Then I bolted it back to the head. I filled the coolant back up and... loving awesome... the new fitting is leaking like a sieve. Looks like the o-ring was too loose. Either way, not loving with it. After I ordered the new hose, I found that there's aftermarket metal replacements. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNYD2JS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I ended up buying one of those and hopefully I'll be done with that poo poo. Won't be here until Monday, though.
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Jul 21, 2018 20:32
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zundfolge posted:Last year I bought a Volvo that included a ton of receipts from MAG and all sorts of stuff was messed up so I'm not sure how much I'd trust their techs, assuming that was the dealer in question. The PO had everything done at Kelly, but I can't fully blame them for this one. Yes, it was broken when I took it out, but in doing some reading (and seeing the new replacement part poo poo the bed), I think it could just be bad design that disintegrated in service. Either way, I'm hoping the metal replacement part takes care of the issue. 'Cause it's super annoying to have everything ready to go and have to wait another day to see if I'm even remotely competent.
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Jul 21, 2018 21:15
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BloodBag posted:BMW_out_of_warranty_ownership.txt Yeah, I had a pristine E39, and even that made me question which thing was going to go next. Then, a year after selling it, I started looking at Minis for a project. And talked myself out of them, because I know better. But there's a draw... and the question is... how much am I willing to put up with for a 400hp, twin turbo wagon? I don't know. I've got the Escalade as an automotive cockroach, so transportation isn't an issue, but I've got other things to do, too. It's summer time, so I don't have any classes to teach for another month. I kinda wanted to get some other stuff done, but I'm hoping that in another week the car will be at least driveable. The thing is that it's kinda fun. The car was over $60k not 10 years ago and I'm balls deep into taking it apart. With that, it's a challenge to see if I can get it back together in a reasonable manner... and then hope. There's always hope. BMW.
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Jul 22, 2018 14:24
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 This motherfucker is fast. First time I've said an involuntary "wow" in regards to a car's acceleration in a while. Took it over for dad to see and he said the same thing. It's absolutely on-par with his E92 M3. That's nice.Post office took its sweet loving time delivering the metal coolant fitting, but after that it went... okay. Coolant top-off and bleed, then let the computers re-sync with a couple ignition cycles. It took a WHILE for it to start the first time, the air/fuel cold start mixture must have been hosed with all of the build-up. Got a transmission error when I first took it out, it couldn't shift into 6th at first, but that was just not having the fluid everywhere after the fluid change. I reset and that never showed up again. After that, I blew off the charge pipe and then a blowoff valve, but minor things in the scope of all that it's seen in the last few days. But you can feel a difference now. That gunk in the intake was just choking the poo poo out of the motor. Now that it can breathe, it's much happier. And I'm anxious to let it build its maps and see how it does in a few days. I still don't trust it yet, but man, it's fast.
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Jul 24, 2018 00:58
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