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Wheels eh? Only cool one I have is this. ... which, well, the implications of the bit on the right make it a bit tricky to use.  (seriously thinking of designing a Panasport-esque 5 or 6 spoke job to take roundy-round derived rim halves but that's a few race cars down the road)
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Jun 14, 2018 23:51
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:20 |
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um excuse me posted:Everything I've ever heard for center lock wheels is expensive. How do you even put that shaft onto the spindle to use that wheel? So, the right side of that flange is the part that the brake rotor and wheel bolt to. The left side, there's two light colored parts? Those are where bearing races for taper bearings go, and the farthest most thing from the end of that is a 2" thread for a locknut. Axle spins inside the knuckle like a FWD hub/axle, just much larger diameter. It's all expensive enough that I seriously think I could be bucks ahead by getting a CNC lathe and doing more axles myself.
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Jun 15, 2018 02:28
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um excuse me posted:Yeesh. I once looked up pricing for center lock because I change my wheels about 25 times a year and it would be soooo much faster. I saw the price and audibly yelped and startled myself to the point where I laughed and hit back on my browser. It's worse for the true racing stuff as opposed to the conversion bits that you just bolt on. So much worse. Some suspension geometry stuff is hard to impossible to do otherwise though... name of the game is how far out you can push the lower ball joint, and by putting the bearings inboard like that you can get to absolutely stupid amounts of offset. This is what I am currently kinda lusting after for a centerlock wheel. I'm thinking if I had the centers CNC machined to use cheaper rim halves it might not be that bad though. 
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Jun 15, 2018 03:04
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Wrar posted:Is there a better answer for the question "I want light wheels that don't suck" than the Enkei RPF1? Only if you're prepared to spend more money. ... which might be why I have a bunch of CAD models for stuff to fit RPF-1s to a 1st gen RX-7.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:23
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For argument's sake, how do you make a flat wheel look good? I'm dicking around with some design stuff and ... have a handle on the engineering but not the aesthetics, and dish and leaving lips has serious suspension geometry implications.
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Aug 18, 2018 12:58
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So basically I have a long term design / fab project for a tube chassis 1st gen RX-7. God knows if I'll ever get to it, but doing design work on it keeps me out of trouble. I'm kinda musing over making wheel centers for 3-piece wheels on top of everything else. I had been thinking something like the Panasport ones I posted earlier but I dunno. Scrub radius and all the compromises it forces (kingpin inclination etc etc) is the big thing, especially with the big slicks. Modern Trans Am stuff ends up running BBSes with the centers bolted to the outside of the wheel halves and everything else done to push everything out as far as possible - like http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/chevy/1370370015/1370370015lb.htm But I kinda don't want to just run BBSes.
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Aug 18, 2018 16:37
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um excuse me posted:That's actually the way they are mounted from the factory. My LM's were bolted with the face on the outside. I reversed them to get the tire further out. Look at this way, do what makes the car faster first, worry about looks later. I guarantee you that your track times will do all the talking. As far as design aesthetic. Look at what Advan does with some of their stuff. They're spokes actually extend from the rim. They concave the bolting face to make it a "normal" offset. If you got rid of the concave, you could be mounting +20/+30. But don't try and reduce scrub radius too much, the gained track width will actually improve handling up to a certain point. Tradeoffs between scrub radius and track width is only true if the suspension is laid down in stone - instead, as I'm doing it, wheel shape determines where the brake caliper/rotor can go, which determines where the pivot points for the control arm can go, and longer control arms pay dividends. This is intended for a GT-class car, so maximum track width is rules defined, and for that matter there's not too much in the way of available tire options. The practical wheel size is 16x10 front, 16x12 rear. The way I'm looking at it is that if I'm doing my own wheel centers to get caliper clearance the way I want it for a given offset (lots) then I have freedom to make them look like anything I want. So given that, the thought then gets to "what styles look best with offsets where there's no lip whatsoever"? I could conceivably just find or copy some BBS E87s but there's more styles than just BBS. I know how to do the functional engineering side of things, but aesthetics aren't necessarily my strong suit.
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Aug 19, 2018 00:05
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 Just some solidworks doodling. May instead look into what real E50 centers cost.
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Aug 29, 2018 19:24
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Yeah, the Jongbloed 557s could work. Basketweave BBS style stuff is growing on me the more I play with it in CAD too.
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Aug 29, 2018 19:44
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That's... something. Going from the dimensions I know for the wheel halves, I can get everything to a range of where I want it probably with normal dimension E50s... something like that and the wheel bolts would be interfering with the caliper.
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Aug 29, 2018 20:01
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Need an opinion: If there's replacement barrels (the not-middle-part) then yes. I know the motorsports BBSes have available barrels, I'm not sure about the RS ones though.
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Sep 22, 2018 20:44
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um excuse me posted:I can't think of a wheel that has more barrel options. A few shops sell aftermarket barrels for them in all sorts of weird sizes like these triple step barrels that allow you to mount 18in tires to a 16 inch face I guess I'm not really surprised but my BBS knowledge pretty much begins and ends with the 16" motorsports wheels - E50/55, E26, E87, E05... Currently working on a modified E50 center in CAD. 9" backspacing on a 10" wheel without anything sticking out past the tire, lol.
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Sep 23, 2018 00:59
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There's highfalutin racing stuff too, but $
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May 31, 2019 21:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Why would they use smaller brakes on a rally car? I’d think with how much hard braking is in rallying you would still want nice big brakes. Or is there a plus side to smaller ones? The rules for actual stuff is that 15x7 is the wheel size for gravel, and 18x8 for tarmac. I'm not an expert on actual use on gravel but looking at actual hardware, I'm not sure gravel is actually that much easier on brakes than tarmac. At the pro level the discs are as wide as will fit, water cooled calipers and water spray is common, etc.
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Jun 30, 2019 16:12
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:20 |
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Might as well crosspost since I think this is cool. Race car candidate wheel - Advanti Storm S1 in 15x7  Not particularly good 3d scan plus CAD curve fit  Curve generated by curve fit overlayed around brake stuff
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Mar 14, 2021 02:24
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