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Pursesnatcher posted:If yours, unlike mine, have been cleaned, inspected, changed or even looked at in the past 25 years, I'm sure it'll be fine! If they are, they'll be the first K-Jets in the history of the world to have been 
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Jul 12, 2018 14:13
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If the wiring looks dodgy but seems to function correctly, I'd honestly just leave it be outside of replacing the OVP and what not. Seems like more harm can be done than good at that point.
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Jul 15, 2018 09:09
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This happened to a friend's m103 when the mechanic replacing the lifters didnt bother filling them with oil before putting them in, they all wore out in record time. So its possible the PO had a lovely, negligent mechanic rather than a cursed engine.
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Aug 9, 2018 06:55
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The lifters ticking hard for a few seconds during a cold start before the engine gets oil pressure is because the valve thats supposed to keep the oil up top has worn. My m103 does it as well. It's obviously not super great for the engine but it's not catastrophic or anything either. I wouldn't worry about it, just swap it out whenever you're working in that area of the engine.
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Sep 8, 2018 11:58
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Are you buying parts direct from Mercedes' legacy parts division? Because they are insane, they wanted like 50 dollars for the little plastic square that covers the jacking point on my w201. The OEM Bosch ignition stuff is expensive (in regular shops), but not THAT expensive, I think I paid $100 or so for a set of 6 HT leads.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:36
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Honestly just put the a new cap on it before going further down the rabbit hole. Mercedes of that era are incredibly sensitive to having bad caps, leads etc. A friend with an m117 w126 decided to clean up the contacts inside the cap with some sandpaper and inadvertently sanded some of the coating of plastic around them. It totally ruined the running of the engine, massive hesitation and loss of power.
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Sep 13, 2018 07:23
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The ticking at the start are your lifters, oil is draining out of the head when the car is left for a longer period of time. When you start the car, it ticks for a few seconds until the oil pump gives you operating pressure. It's not a huge deal, but one of the potential fixes is very easy - your oil filter could have a damaged oil check valve (or a lovely one/none at all in the case of aftermarket filters). Throw on a new OEM filter and it might solve your problem. If not, you have a leak somewhere that could be letting air in.
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Jan 23, 2019 16:24
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Yeah leaving it overnight is long enough - my W124 did this as well, the filter was OEM but I think quite old (as in manufacturing date). Changing to a new Mann filter fixed it for me. The oil filter mount is another primary suspect for leaks letting air in. Definitely change the valve cover gasket and see if that helps. If it's none of those things, it can be an internal leak between the oil pump and the block, in which case most people just live with it until the engine is taken apart for other reasons, the wear it causes is minimal and these engines are indestructible anyway 
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Jan 23, 2019 21:51
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I'm going to go the other way and say fix it up good and proper. If I remove something from a car, I like to put it back on in as good shape as possible. Just be mindful that there's scope creep and there's SCOPE CREEP. Changing valve cover gaskets doesn't mean you should rebuild the whole engine, but you could, say, have the covers repainted. If you do head gaskets, have the heads rebuilt, but make sure the bottom end actually needs something before you start digging that out, etc etc.Pursesnatcher posted:The oil pressure gauge on my dash only goes from 0 to 3, and it pretty much just sits at 3 when running, but I guess it tells me all I need to know? When warm, it may drop a little at idle, but that's fine according to the owner's manual – so long as it shoots back up once I apply some gas. Yeah, this is how it's supposed to be. I'm pretty sure if you opened up the bottom end on this engine you'd find it looking nearly factory new, Mercedes didn't gently caress around when it came to durability back in those days.
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Apr 27, 2019 12:28
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Wipe the green residue off and see if it comes back. Painting the valve covers yourself is pretty easy and much cheaper than the alternatives. If you want to get fancy, then go ahead and have them powdercoated
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May 14, 2019 15:41
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It looks like your GE has the 117.965 engine? Which is shared with the V8 SECs, R107 SLs and W126 S classes. If so, you won't need an AMG fan clutch.
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May 15, 2019 15:04
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If it's larger in relation to the engine pulley then it will spin faster I guess? Or I'm an idiot
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May 18, 2019 09:38
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Ugh, my 300CE has started making the jet engine noise too  Did you have to use a tool to lock the fan pulley on your v8? I hate buying unique tools for one-off jobs and am probably going to try and bodge it without.
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Jun 4, 2019 10:50
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Sounds to me like you've forgotten to tighten something somewhere. I'd go over every clamp, bolt and other fastener that you've touched and make sure it's done up nice and tight. After reassembling the engine on my BX, I was confused by the engine wanting to die when pressing the throttle, and it turned out I'd forgotten to tighten down the throttle body Could that unsecured ATF pipe be tapping the radiator or something? Since it isn't secured by a bolt like it was before?
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Jun 27, 2019 15:44
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zundfolge posted:Certain flavors of old Bosch fuel injection do in fact use throttle position switches, not sensors. All they do is tell the ECU that the throttle is closed (so that it can regulate idle speed using an auxiliary air valve) or wide open (so that it can enrich the air-fuel mixture). Everything in between is handled by whatever air flow meter the specific system uses. In your truck I think it’s K-Jetronic? In any case a bad switch would probably only cause stalling at idle since the ECU doesn’t realize the throttle is closed. There are almost never issues with the WOT side.. Came here to post this. Both my W124 and my BX GTi have this system, and they both have the same test. code:
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Jul 31, 2019 08:57
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I guess that makes this the Satanic Bible? https://kjetkillers.pl/en_US/p/Injection-set-piggyback-EFI-Mercedes-V8-m117/77
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Jul 31, 2019 22:38
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I've had a couple of Mercs from that generation and the pump has always been whisper-quiet in them except when priming  The fuel pump assembly was leaking on my Merc last year as well, I was advised to just replace the whole thing with a used unit as they are pretty reliable, I did so (just put a new fuel filter on) and it has indeed been fine.
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May 2, 2020 22:32
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