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Looks like some Benzes have that relay behind the battery, up against the firewall? Though looking at your car I can't even tell how that battery fits in there. e: This should be a fun project. Old Benzes seem to share tons of parts with each other which are all readily available and you seem to have the patience, interest, and funds to do it right. Keeps us updated. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 03:52
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Nissens is a good choice. The original was likely made by Behr/Hella if I had to guess. If you're deadset on original OEM parts you may be able to track one of those down: it will be the exact part you'd get in the Mercedes-Benz box, but without the price you pay for the star on the box. In those pictures you posted of the leak it says "[something] Made in Germany" See if you can see what it says there and order accordingly. Just do something because that radiator you have now is beyond being on borrowed time.
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Jul 11, 2018 06:08
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Ah yes, the joys of screw extractors. For what it's worth I've never successfully used one. Depending on how soft the screws are, sometimes you can hammer an oversized Torx socket bit (e.g, on a 3/8" drive) into the hole until it "bites" the spun-out Allen head and use an impact or hand impact driver to get them out that way. They're probably not really torqued in that hard, but Allen screws are a bitch, every time. Especially if someone's tried to use a wrong or a worn-out wrench on them at some point. If you haven't picked up a jar of anti-seize, do that too. I put it on almost every fastener I touch. Cheap insurance. e: It'll be a real bitch, like nearly impossible, to drill out the ez-out and try again. I'd consider some other strategy. The Dremel one is a good one. The fuel lines, while potentially dangerous and definitely something you need to be cautious around, are probably really not that big of an issue. Perhaps you could start the car and pull out the fuel pump fuse while it's running, and let the car run itself out of gas to clear the lines? e2: as a last resort, since the car runs and drives you might be able to take it to a machine shop and let them dick with it. Since they're everybody's last resort anyway they tend to be really good about doing seemingly-impossible fastener removals like this. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 22:16
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DJT518T posted:Given the DIY condition of those connectors and relays they were probably for some aftermarket spot lights or something. That was my initial thought as well. If they are for something important there are ways to make better crimps. I bought some Chinese crimp tools that make the type of crimp the spade terminals come with from the factory for about $25. They’re ratcheting and have replaceable dies and are actually pretty nice. I think one from a “real” brand starts around $100 used but I can’t remember the name brand/generic trademark for the type of crimper. I know Dave Barton in Texas sells the spade lugs and a number of different plug casings as well that maybe would fit those relays if they need to be kept. I’m pretty sure he ships internationally and I’m also sure there are other sources for these parts. All of this only matters if the wiring goes to something important and is still actually on the car. Judging by the crummy condition of the insulation, though, I’m thinking more PO-installed fog lights or something. Volvo had problems in the 80s with wiring insulation crumbling when exposed to heat (which doesn’t seem to be a problem here) but by 1988 it was good again. I can’t imagine MB would have used wiring with anything but the finest of insulation by 1993. Good news is that those silver-cased Bosch relays are absolutely rock solid for the most part so only the dubious wiring to them is cause for concern.
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Jul 14, 2018 22:59
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Black88GTA posted:Not sure if Wow, no I really actually had no idea. The same term is used for Volvo harnesses of the 80s. That's what I get for assuming things I guess. Germans are really good at petrochemical and rubber and stuff so I figured they if anyone would have good wiring. Scratch what I said up there then!
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Jul 15, 2018 00:52
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My 1991 240 has one to operate the power unlocking and one to operate power locking, and some more for the windows too I think. They were and are still extremely prolific among European cars. It's a very standard, basic relay, SPDT I think is the right term. Which is also probably why there was no wire on that terminal: there is no need for the NC connection if you're using it to run a high-current accessory like lights etc. Look up the Bosch wiring codes if you're curious and match them to the terminal numbers, 86 is NC and 87 is NO or vice-versa. The only other I can remember is 1 is coil positive or something (you run the tach off that), there's a lot of them and they apply to all cars with old Bosch wiring systems (so, like, everything from Europe from 1960-1995 or so.) You won't hurt anything if you start the car I don't think. Worst case scenario is probably some electric accessory will fail to operate as intended. But given the crappy crimps it was probably for some long-ago-uninstalled accessory. e2: You'll also note that that wire isn't part of any sort of harness and just sort of goes on its own. It definitely doesn't look factory to me. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 01:46
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Yes, radiator should definitely be a priority repair. I know you're working on getting the funding, but if that tank outlet blows off and you dump all your coolant, you're going to be in deep poo poo. I was getting slightly-high temperature readings with the factory, 28 year old, radiator in my 240, particularly driving in traffic after using the interstate. I replaced the radiator and they are back to normal- actually slightly low. Maybe there was some blockage or something in the radiator, I don't know, but it helped. Replace the hoses too, obviously. Those type of hose clamps you have are the better kind than the ones with holes in the steel for the worm screw or whatever it's called, get some replacements of the same type as on the car now. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jul 21, 2018 |
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Jul 21, 2018 20:17
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Now that's interesting, and also I'm now starting to understand it. G-wagens didn't come here for a long time after that, and they're always decked out with huge motors and all the fancy Benz stuff and the accompanying price tag. I always assumed they were just upmarket all along, didn't realize they started off more utilitarian originally. Considering how obscure this car is, it's pretty remarkable that Mercedes will even offer to sell you that piece of very expensive walnut at all.
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Jul 24, 2018 00:42
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everdave posted:Mercedes-Benz will rebuild anything at anytime for any of their vehicles if you pay the asking price. I guess. Didn’t some guy send a gullwing SL to be rebuilt by the factory a few years ago?
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Jul 24, 2018 14:23
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BMW V8 chains from the early 00s "stretch" and eventually the plastic guides break and it all goes to hell rapidly, as far as i can tell with my 2002 BMW M62TUB or whatever it is. I paid so little for the car I don't feel like doing any PM on it and I don't really like it much so I'm just waiting for some extremely expensive failure to occur and then scrap it and buy another cheap car and rinse and repeat. But it is definitely A Thing on German V8s. Of course this car will probably spite me for 30k more miles and I'll be stuck in a dated old BMW getting 17 mpg for what seems life forever. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jul 27, 2018 |
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Jul 27, 2018 03:14
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I was actually just thinking of this thread the other day after seeing an old 280GE? or something G-wagen at the junkyard here last weekend. Must have been an old grey-market import because I'm pretty sure those weren't sold here in the States back then. Glad you're still at it! For whatever it's worth, Mann oil filters are by far the preferred filter for use on the admittedly very different old Volvo redblock engines by the cognoscenti. Like the poster above said, there's murmurs about the antidrainback valve being particularly strong/well designed in them to keep the engine lubricated during startup. It may be Internet car guys being Internet car guys, but at least for old Volvos it's also the exact filter Volvo sells, just with different writing silkscreened onto it. e: oh gently caress I somehow didn't see that I'm bumping a month-old thread, oh well...
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Feb 16, 2019 03:29
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drat! Well I’m glad you got it out okay without breaking any unobtainium parts. At least you live in a place where a car like a g wagen is apppropriate- someone in my neighborhood has a new one but they’re just driving it on paved roads in the city to show everyone that they have money. What’s the provenance on your car anyway? Has it always been a Norway car (or did you say you’re danish?) do you know anything about the original owner? Putting together the history of an old car can be fun. Also, a friend and I took a trip to Atlanta in January. While we were walking on Moreland Avenue she saw an older green g-wagen driving by and was immediately entranced by it and decided right then and there she had to have one. I didn’t have the heart to tell her how much one costs to own but she can dream. She points them out when we see them while riding around. There are a surprising number of them in Knoxville for some reason.
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Feb 16, 2019 22:56
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It survived the winter! Good to see this thread again. I know I’ve been saying it for a long time but please get that radiator, and soon. You do not want to dump all your coolant at once. I’m honestly amazed it’s lasted this long. Check out Behr or Behr/Hella or whatever’s catalog for your country and see if you can get a part number and call a dealer of their parts. Or if not maybe contact them directly? You can probably do at least the radiator for less than that dealer will want. Same with cap/rotor/wires. They’re probably all Bosch parts you can get your hands on with a few emails or phone calls. Still probably won’t be cheap, though... None of this stuff is super challenging. Gaskets and stuff, sure, but you can do some yourself if you want. Re: the spark, HV wires like that act in funny ways. If one cylinder was just along for the ride you’d probably feel it as kind of a loping idle in my experience. You may be getting a weak spark but a good enough one to combust the probably-really-expensive and good-quality fuel over there. BTW we’d call that a “pit” where I come from (the trench in the garage, that is.)
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Apr 17, 2019 23:24
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Pursesnatcher posted:Rotor and cap are switched though; the effect was absolutely magical! Should be pictures of the old ones a few posts back, they were in terrible form, so I'm guessing these super fun new ticking noises (and sparks...) are at least in part due to that one HV lead actually getting some voltage running into it for the first time in... a long time. Ah yeah I thought I had vaguely remembered something about the cap, but hell I can't even remember what work I've done on my own drat cars anyway.
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Apr 18, 2019 02:50
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