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Are the lifters adjustable? They can get loud if they're way out of spec.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 13:43 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 07:56 |
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That cap is blasted; you have to replace it. You can probably clean up the rotor (carefully cleaning the outer contact with a light file) but that cap is shot. What blows my mind is that the PO indicated he spent $40K on motor work over the past 7-years, complained of hard start, lovely idle & performance, and no one ever thought to replace the cap, rotor, plugs or wires?? With those symptoms, it should be the first thing done.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2018 17:20 |
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You've said they ain't facory (or Bosch), but the last things I'd replace on that are the plug wires...you've done the plugs...once you square away the cap & rotor, see how she behaves. If you're still suspicious about the wires: wait for a good & dark night & fire her up; open the hood, and take a good, long, leisurely look at the wires in full darkness; if they're worn or cheap, they'll leak, and you'll see plasma pulsing all over the place, up & down the leads. If you don't: live with them until everything else is done & you're flush with cash.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 03:45 |
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Yeah, that sounds more like the rig needed to perform mechanical valve tappet adjustment (which is a form of timing adjustment)
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2018 00:54 |
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Pursesnatcher posted:Yeah, you're right. Twice so far in this thread I've been told to slow down, I just keep forgetting! jesus wept. Those are Renault prices.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2018 03:59 |
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Pursesnatcher posted:Two questions: Is it a problem if I end up squirting quite a lot of WD40-like solutions on the fan belts? And am I messing up the timing or whatever by turning the water pump around like that? No, it has nothing to do with timing...but you will want to maybe rinse off the belts...though WD-40 will probably burn itself off after a couple minutes' running. Load up the stubborn bolt with 3-in-1 or other penetrating oil & let it sit at least overnight.
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# ¿ May 24, 2019 02:25 |
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I trust that your instructions included turning the cabin heat all the way up to order to flush the heater core as well. In addition to the acid bath, you really could have used this: https://imgur.com/0Qlv0V0 (IMGUR being wonky) I have installed one of these on about every car I have ever owned, within minutes of purchase. The tee goes on the inlet hose to the heater core - cut the hose & install; hook up to a garden hose; fire up the engine, full cabin heat, & open the spigot. It'll blow all the crud out in no more tha half an hour.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2019 04:43 |
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Bad throttle position sensor?
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2019 13:07 |
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Seconding STR on the oil pressure & voltage; they’re symptoms of very low idle. Sounds like a vacuum leak of some kind...bad/leaking EGR, or some other component that switches at temp to open an air path to the intake manifold. Either the component, or a hose. Do you have functioning A/C? Is there a fast-idle solenoid attached to the throttle via a cable or linkage? It’s a stretch...
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2019 13:59 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 07:56 |
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Pursesnatcher posted:Oh, those are solid tips. I just assumped the sunroof is sealed all around, but maybe not? This is the problem with having a very tall car, I guess. It’s at least a Mercedes thing; I had an e320 sedan that did this. That, and the special sunroof unicorn lube
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2019 18:17 |