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AutohausAZ is legit. I bought a few things from them for my Volvo years ago, back when they would do will call.
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Jul 25, 2018 03:53
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:05 |
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Seems legit, and also sounds like a hellish job. Four Corners (intersection of Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico) is just shy of 550m away from where it actually "should" be.
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Jul 27, 2018 20:01
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I mean absolute worst case you buy a set of cut to fit wires and spend an hour saving $600+.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:35
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LloydDobler posted:Generally timing is a closed loop thing. It knocks a little, it pulls timing immediately. I don't think there's any storage or learning involved, especially on older stuff. Depends on if it even has knock sensors. It might not, might just rely on properly setting the base timing.
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Sep 11, 2018 08:55
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Even for a Mercedes that doesn't sound right for checking ignition timing. That sounds like verifying that the cams are in time with each other / the crankshaft.
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Sep 11, 2018 23:27
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If you're going to pull the mechanical fan altogether and try to run on just those (admittedly quite beefy) electric fans, I wouldn't do it without at least wiring up a manual fan switch for testing. If it works, then I'd eventually swap that manual toggle switch out for a thermostatically controlled one. Also, I have never heard of being concerned about exposing an engine cooling system to oxygen, with the sole possible exception of early Dexcool that would turn to sand.
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Jun 3, 2019 20:50
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Yeah, the acid can corrode things, but why not just do more cycles with distilled water to ensure you get it all out? It seems like that'd be far better for the cooling system's longevity than just doing one drain/refill after the acid flush. Granted, I never bother with running the engine without a thermostat in it while doing coolant flushes, but even without worrying about that, it takes a few times to get all of the old poo poo out.
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Jun 3, 2019 21:12
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The loose-hanging "screw" is a "jiggle valve" which allows a small amount of flow even when the thermostat is closed, so that you can actually bleed the system of air.
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Jun 11, 2019 21:33
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You might need some flare nut wrenches / line wrenches to separate those fittings without rounding them, or at the very least, some locking adjustable pliers.
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Jun 18, 2019 17:20
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You could possibly get someone to weld those tubes shut on the condenser if it's just that one area that's leaking. On the hoses... if they're that expensive I'd seriously look into building some AN or JIC hoses to replace them, unless they're some super weird proprietary fitting on one end that can't be adapted.
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Jun 20, 2019 21:53
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I've never even considered using slow motion for that. Yeah I'd say that pump is done.
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Jul 1, 2019 14:33
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Oh poo poo, I didn't even consider that either. If the clutch isn't the type that threads on with one giant nut - and that doesn't seem to be the case here - then without the clutch in place there's nothing holding that pulley to the pump, unless you reinstalled the bolts after taking the clutch off. You'll want to make sure that they don't foul on anything since they'll be threaded in deeper than before, or alternatively buy versions that are shorter by the thickness of the clutch mounting face.
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Jul 1, 2019 17:36
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Pursesnatcher posted:Update: Google made me wiser; seems I've got to loosen the servo pump in order to loosen the belts. Belts themselves were last changed only six years and 20k miles ago, so I won't be replacing the ones in there, methinks. This is typical of V-belt systems, one of the accessories on any given belt loop will be adjustable. You shouldn't even need to remove the belts (or any bolts), just loosen the mounting bolts on the pump enough to give it a shove towards the centerline of the engine and you should get enough slack to rotate the pulley into the right orientation.
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Jul 3, 2019 21:46
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Excluding very very unusual transmissions, nearly all automatics have a pump that is driven by the input shaft and torque converter, even in park and neutral. So any time the engine is running, fluid should be moving. It will take a long time for the transmission to get to operating temperature like that, but it will eventually. STR recommended the heater running to keep the engine cooler for a prolonged idling session.
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Jul 8, 2019 00:13
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You've got a set of line wrenches, right? They'll be your only hope at dismantling that without destroying that pipe. Even then, I don't like the odds.
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Apr 24, 2020 14:40
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:05 |
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I was going to suggest the same thing. Cut up tire, sheet rubber, just something soft but reasonably stable to make up the gap and let the clamp close down tight.
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Jun 4, 2020 04:21
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