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You must be new to german cars, or anything older than 10 years old. Everything rubber or plastic in your engine bay or suspension is junk and it all needs to be replaced. E: I forgot to say earlier, have you thought about getting a impact driver and hex bit for your injectors/fuel rails? Hitting and turning helps well with stuck fasteners. Up to you whether you get a battery or hand tool version. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 20:32
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 05:01 |
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Whether you cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver bit, or hammer in a torx, like I said before, get an impact tool and hardened bit drivers. A hand impact and hammer might work and it's only ~$20 for the hand tool (E: though if you buy a cheap tool, throw away the cheap bits and get high quality hardened bits). I also now swear by old ATF fluid mixed with acetone if like me in Australia you can't buy the USA penetrating oils like PB, kroil, liquid wrench etc. Screw extractors hardly ever work as noted when they do they make front page news in AI. Cheap ones are too brittle, so they will snap and now you've got hardened steel you can't drill through again, and have drilled out removed any semblance of gripping points of the hex. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 22:26
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The pin in the middle of the distributor cap is made of carbon, it's supposed to be black (and be careful when cleaning as you can snap it) I don't like the look of your spark plug leads/wires, all the spark plugs with rust/blackened tops obviously didn't have a good connection to the leads/wires.
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Sep 8, 2018 13:05
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Pursesnatcher posted:Huh. A new rotor and cap is about $250, while a full set of Bosch cables (which I'll get eventually, can't stand the fact that the ones in place now aren't OEM) would be another $700 or so. Sounds expensive to replace all of it? I get the feeling people do once a year, but maybe that's overkill? I have no idea if the rotor and cap is super special, but leads shouldn't be over $100 even if custom made super squirrel specials. If you want to stick to OEM only, then the best bet is to look for overseas suppliers and eat the freight and taxes (It's what I do with a BMW in Australia). I don't agree with changing cap, rotor and wires every time you change spark plugs though. When running those king of regular plugs I'd change them every 20-30 thou (less frequent if using platinum or paladium or something of course but for standard coppers 20-30 thou), then cap and rotor every 40-60 thou, wires every 100 thou; unless they test or look bad.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:38
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Pursesnatcher posted:Yeah no, I'm pretty much only buying things everyone else confirms they are unable to get. Like OEM screws for the injector valve clamps. The prices I'm quoting are from various online parts vendors; I'm going to get a quote from one of my regular shops tomorrow, but I'm not overly optimistic. Also checking out overseas vendors; AutohausAZ does have some nice prices on other things, but they still want $102 for that cap and $25 for the rotor, before freight, customs and taxes. Don't forget ebay. It's generally trash brands but some proper auto parts sellers (especially from the UK) that don't ship overseas from their own POS system will often list things on ebay.co.uk or europe etc and will be willing to ship overseas if bought through ebay. I've got a few things via ebay from UK parts stores that won't sell to australia from their own main business page.
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Sep 10, 2018 10:09
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It probably has a knock sensor and the timing is maybe advanced if it runs better on higher octane fuel. My 1997 ford falcon had a knock sensor with a regular distributor like this merc, if it's like that you can still set the base timing to make a huge difference. Ford australia brought out coil packs in the 95-96 models but went back to a distributor for 97 due to reliability problems - which was great as so much more performance could be gained by advancing the base timing and you really did get better fuel economy and more power by tuning it.
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Sep 11, 2018 14:28
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That doesn't sound right, that sounds like cam timing not ignition timing. I was unable to get any free info or downloads myself except crazyaboutmercedes.com selling the pdf manual for $20, so I can't check myself. Timing lights were well and truly invented by 93, in fact they're becoming obsolete as by 97 most cars didn't have a distributor any more. They came out in the 1940s or something. E: From what I've read with little bits of info from forums, yeah, what you are talking about is valve adjustment, as the manual says do valve adjustment cold before doing the actual ignition timing. You can still turn the distributor for the actual ignition timing, but read through a manual for what temp, RPM and what to disconnect when setting the timing. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Sep 12, 2018 |
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Sep 12, 2018 11:11
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 05:01 |
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OP was saying a manual for the car is hard to get. An engine manual for that motor exists no problem. Like I said I found a PDF version for sale at $20 at crazyaboutmercedes.com http://crazyaboutmercedes.com/en/mercedes-benz-engine-manuals/6-mercedes-benz-service-manual-v-8-engine-m-11696-38-m-11796-50.html If a PDF version exists then it may be found online for free somewhere
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Sep 13, 2018 04:21
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