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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Speaking of budget printers from 2006, are the different toners (like the actual powdery black stuff) similar enough be used across brands?

I have KM PagePro printer that's on page 1701 out of 1500 of its original toner cartridge. I don't print nearly enough at home to justify a new OEM replacement ($$$$) or even a generic 6000-page one ($$) however they do sell 2000-page refills for HP or Canon printers for like 5 bucks that will be more than enough.

https://i.imgur.com/NmHgubH.mp4

Otherwise the only issue is that sometimes it fails to pick up the first page of the job. I guess it would be because of this rubber thingie above? Would cleaning it with IPA or something else help?

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Apr 20, 2020

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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Oh well, already ordered the appropriate KM one. Since the refill was only available from a different store, with shipping & handling the difference would be like so whatever. Hopefully the printer can actually last another 6000 pages.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Supply chains all the way to China and elsewhere got affected higher demand for home/small office equipment could explain it. But honestly I haven't noticed any significant changes here. These toners were cheap as dirt.


Anyway, the Konica Minolta replacement toner was a success, for an old budget printer it prints text beautifully. With 6000 pages that's probably the last toner I'll ever need lol.

I also got the black and cyan toners for a Samsing CLX-2160 mdf that I also had around. That wasn't such a big success:



The strip on the right is coming out as good as it ever did, but the rest of the page is somewhat messed up, looks like it's missing cyan? And I'm also getting random strips of yellow or black on some but not all pages. Any ideas what's up?

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Thanks Ants posted:

Run off full pages of CMY and K and see if any colour is noticeably worse, but at a guess you need a new transfer belt
Duh that's a pretty obvious test.



It's somehow actually way worse than the test image suggested, I guess because you can see all the problems individually. As you said, it was the transfer "belt", in this case I think there are worm wheels on two shafts and a roller. I found this video which perfectly explained how that works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ipw1RjwzUDg#t=785s

Basically I cleaned the doctor blade (this seems to be the term for the shiny metal plate) that had some toner caked onto the very edge that's supposed to scrape the excess off, and for all except the cyan (as I did it first) I also cleaned the roller itself, so that there was no residue left on it when I put them back in.



Other that the obvious gradient on the cyan (that maybe will go away after it gets fully coated) and the right edge of yellow, it all looks pretty much perfect to the naked eye. I don't know if it was worth spending a few hours on this but at least it was pretty educational and made me feel like I accomplished something. Thanks!


Geemer posted:

I did that once on an Epson color laser and K curled up so badly on the fuser that it got stuck and left a permanent scar that'd show up on all subsequent prints. This was with laser printer approved paper and official Epson toner.
This probably depends on the model, I don't see how this could've happened here since the pale areas are where the toner doesn't make it out of the cartridge. I'm not sure how exactly the printer determines it needs to supply more toner into the compartment, but unless it just keeps pumping it in until it explodes, nothing extra should come out I think.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


You can also sign PDFs right on your computer though...

I'd get a cheap B&W laser, I haven't bought one in years but Brother seems to be a popular choice. I bought the cheapest Konica Minolta model (1300W) when I started college... over, ugh, 10 years ago and it only needed the pickup roller cleaned up.

Phone scans are definitely acceptable occasionally but the consistent lighting and flattening you get on a real scanner do make a big difference.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Geemer posted:

My Brother b/w mfc laser had a broken touch screen, as in the layer that did the touch part of the touch screen literally flaked off inside the screen.
This was 2 months after the warranty period. I took it to the local official Brother repair center nearby, expecting a bill of at least 80. But because I'd put in an official cartridge they waived the fee. Like, they literally opened the door to check if it was a genuine cart before even taking a good look at the screen.

So I guess that's a thing to consider. In my case the price for a real high capacity cart was 63 vs 49 for a knockoff. Pretty good deal in this instance.
Conclusion: keep an empty OEM cartridge around somewhere, just in case.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


So that Samsung printer that I "fixed" a while ago. Seems like it's not really fully fixed.



Every couple of pages I'm still getting this horizontal yellow (and sometimes black) strip. If printing more than a few pages at at time, there are also some ghosting of the previous page. It's a bit difficult to see on the scan but it's definitely there in the bottom part of the page.

This might be just down to how the paper was fed in but the page is also slightly misaligned. The url at the top goes right up to the top of the page instead of having the normal margin.

Is the drum hosed? Cleaning it according to the instructions didn't do anything. Hopefully I didn't break it when fixing the toner issue lol.

roadhead posted:

Welp a Raspberry Pi 4 and some elbow grease got it back on the network, seems like a waste of the Pi but it wasn't getting much use as an emulation machine anyway.

CUPS is actually pretty easy to setup too!
I used a Pi Zero W which feels about right for the job. No issues with performance.

Quaint Quail Quilt posted:

I recently learned Google drive scan function is great on Android. Way better than anything in gcam, does all that stuff in one app.

Also I haven't seen the term LED printer in here, this nerd I like on YouTube taught me all about them:
https://youtu.be/_saDCwsB9Ww

Channel name is technology connections in case the link is mobile only.

I never understood "can't post link, on mobile"
Maybe they're using an iphone and can't copy/paste

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Jul 22, 2020

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


klosterdev posted:

^ How did you get into the dog pee industry
You don't "get" into the dog pee industry, you have to be born into it.

ShaneMacGowansTeeth posted:

Two things: Does it have a fuser and is it hosed, and are you setting the right paper type for the actual paper you're printing on? I had a job where a user was printing on a letterhead, and the pre-printed letterhead was melting onto the fuser and ghosting onto the rest of the page, so I had to set to a different paper type to turn the fuser's temperature down to not melt the letterhead. If the fuser's fine, and the drum's fine, it could be lovely toner
Eh yeah I it has a fuser, I'm not sure how it would work otherwise. How can I tell if it's hosed, of if it's the drum? It could be lovely toner (I got aftermarket poo poo and had to clean the cartridges myself) but that's what I'm hoping to narrow down.

I'm printing or regular plain, 80g/m A4. That's also the default setting, although if I change anything, the w10 print dialog resets it because of "setting conflicts". To eliminate this I just printed a test image from a USB disk with the same results, more or less.


Peachfart posted:

As a professional printer toucher, I need to know which way your paper is feeding to properly diagnose your issue. Landscape or portrait?
Also the cost is 275/hr with a 20 dollar materials fee
It's feeding the paper in portrait, short edge across the printer width. It wouldn't fit the other way. So the yellow line is like 5mm of contact with the drum.

Please send 0.01BTC to my wallet to confirm your identity and I'll send you back 275+20 bucks.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Peachfart posted:

If it is literally feeding the short edge, then it is a very weird issue. But if it is feeding the long edge, I'd bet the drum charge roller is dirty and is causing the yellow line, and the black stuff is likely fuser related, with a possibility of the black drum having an issue. You can be certain if it is the drum or fuser by printing a few solid magenta or cyan prints. If the black ghosting stays the same color it is drum, if it changes to the printed color it is fuser.
Ugh I suppose that was a bit ambiguous, what I meant is that the paper goes in like this, so the short edge and yellow/black lines are parallel with the height (fuuuck or width?) of the drum cylinder:



ShaneMacGowansTeeth posted:

if you can pop the fuser out, just check that the heat rolls inside aren't damaged. If they're okay with no obvious nicks or tears, I'd probably lean towards the drum. The ghosting is probably some residual off-brand toner that's still in the drum, which should go away after a number of prints with proper toner
I think the fuser is fine. Or at least it was fine before I had to force it back in because I didn't realize I had to open the top cover to make it go in normally

I suppose it could be the toner, I'm using aftermarket stuff (made for this model) but there's no way I'm buying OEM toner for a +10y.o. printer that might not even work properly. A $10 ebay drum is the most I can do for it, I think. For this reason, hopefully nobody loses any sleep over this. I just want to figure it out as a matter of principle at this point.


Anyway here's the best look at the fuser roller I could get. It's impossible to tell from the photo bu there are almost no signs of wear


There was this rubbery roller on the flip-out door below the fuser assembly. It was clearly dirty but cleaning it made no difference.


The drum below the fuser assembly (with the yellow warning labels at the top) has clearly visible text on it:


The actual drum was dirty again, but it does wipe off.



Anyway, I then printed a few pages of magenta followed by test pages:
P1: Yellow line, magentish tint to the smearing
P2: Lighter yellow line, black line, more obvious magenta tint
P3: Almost ok, some ghosting form the last page


P6 (new job). P7 (the pube is unrelated)


Honestly this feels like a complete disaster I then printed a page of cyan and the following test pages had clearly cyan stripes on them. So that would point at the fuser then?

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Thanks, definitely don't waste too much time but if you're bored I suppose it could be a fun way to spend some time I mentioned it before but so you don't have to look for it, it's a CLX-2160, and IIRC the printing guts are compatible with CLP-300. I don't think it has an ITB as such, the toner is dumped form the cartridge and distributed to the roller (that you can see in the 4th photo above) with a few screw gears. There was a problem with the metal plate that scraped excess toner off but I mostly fixed it by scraping off old toner. This roller then seems to directly transfer onto the drum.

Actually looking back at the first sample print, the yellow and black lines were already there, so at least it's not something I messed up with my repair attempts.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


mobby_6kl posted:

Thanks, definitely don't waste too much time but if you're bored I suppose it could be a fun way to spend some time I mentioned it before but so you don't have to look for it, it's a CLX-2160, and IIRC the printing guts are compatible with CLP-300. I don't think it has an ITB as such, the toner is dumped form the cartridge and distributed to the roller (that you can see in the 4th photo above) with a few screw gears. There was a problem with the metal plate that scraped excess toner off but I mostly fixed it by scraping off old toner. This roller then seems to directly transfer onto the drum.

Actually looking back at the first sample print, the yellow and black lines were already there, so at least it's not something I messed up with my repair attempts.
I think I'll just have to junk this thing. In addition to these issues, it now also constantly claims incompatible paper size and paper jams (that are fixed by opening and closing the door).

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Lower DPI would just make printing faster, I doubt it would make a significant difference to toner consumption. Although it'll print fewer dots, they will be larger. The only difference might exist if you're printing a lot of tiny details that wouldn't print at 300 at all, like the coastline paradox



The draft / toner save mode definitely works though.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


It's probably to prevent the inks from drying out and it's not just Epson doing this stuff. A laser B&W printer / scanner would be a good option if you could survive without color. Otherwise I'm not too familiar with modern inkjet stuff, though I've actually seen Epson recommended pretty often.

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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

"You are the best poster... do not let anyone say otherwise."


Facebook Aunt posted:

Okay, but isn't that by design? If mixing all four toners makes a blacker black, why not mix all four toners in one cartridge and make that the new black toner?
Then how much blacker could you go? None more black. This way you've got your regular black, and if you need an extra kick, you mix in some more toner to go blacker.

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