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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Seventy five degrees out today! Truck timing set to 6-7 degrees. Idle set at 550. Definitely have a small vacuum leak, it sounds like it anyway and the vacuum gauge is a low. It doesn't want to pick up when you hit the gas fast.

Also I should have known better buying gaskets off the rack with phone research. My carb has a little transfer tube (that I replaced as I had a spare!) and the cutout didn't accommodate. I also observed a spot on the old Gasket that should be a hole but was blocked off. I cut it for now but new ones on the way.

I just have like a weekend day of work to get it tightened up air leak solved , hoses and lines clamped off, wires wrapped, air filter on.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Crazy weekend, the weather was awesome so I did a ton.

Pickup: yanked off the other bedside and rebuilt it with the hinges on top of the bed and a new latch. Learned quite a bit since the first side and did a mostly better job, but I botched the placement of the latch and it doesn't slam, you have to do it by hand. Also pulled the tailgate so I could skinny it up but ran out of cutting wheels.

Wife's car needed new struts and shocks and brakes. So I fired up the Galaxie and parked it in the driveway so I could use the flat garage. That's kind of a big deal! I got it out no problem, the brakes suuuuuucked though and it barely stopped by the end of the driveway. It also didn't want to start which I blame on old gas mostly, and I nearly drained the battery getting it to start before I freshened it up.

Anyway huge success on the wife's Escape, I even ran new brake fluid with the pressure bleeder and only had issues opening one bleeder. Everything is metric except this bleeder I guess is 3/8? Got it loose with a socket no problem.

After I was done I tidyed up the garage and it started sprinkling so I cut it short and hopped in the Galaxie to get it back in. Of course it was nice out mostly and all of my neighbors were out and chatting or working in the yards. The battery was dead now, just a click left. So I pulled my Sierra up and jumped it, and struggled to keep it running. Eventually it leveled out and was idling so I moved the truck out of the way, got back in the car, shifted to reverse and it rolled forward downhill. The transmission is so thirsty it would not go. I eventually got some motion by revving it (still no mufflers so that got some attention) and holding the brake until it started moving and I got it back into the garage, and avoided eye contact when we left later.

So today I put the mufflers on it, and decided I'd run it and get the transmission fluid right. I had previously added a quart and thought that it was right on the money but I think it was just from fluid in the dipstick tube. I added three quarts today! I still think it needs more, but I was getting tired from the car running in the garage. Especially since I see now there's an exhaust leak at the donut gasket, passenger side. I should have replaced it when I did the driver's side but it felt good! . Oh and I heard an intake leak and confirmed it with carb cleaner, base of the carb on the backside. I'm gonna regasket it and see if there's anything hinky in there. Since it sat for 20 years without running I wouldn't be surprised if the old one dried up or cracked or was never good in the first place, and there's nowhere else to leak.

The good news here is that I did confirm the choke works, and the temp gage works.

So I'll see you guys next time the rockauto delivery shows up!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


All right, I got some welding done on my flatbed tailgate, I skinnied it up to for with the new arrangement of the bed sides, of course I neglected a latch... But at least it looks nice. Im not sure what I'll do but it won't be complicated. Previously it was a bent rod and interlocking pipes, and I only had one of the rods so it only closed on one side.



I also dug into these new gaskets and got the leaks taken care of I think. The exhaust feels good and tight now with the right donut on, and the bottom carb gasket looked like it had an obvious problem. So on this car there is a riser that has coolant pumping through it, and an intake for the PCV system. There is a nub on the back at that PCV intake and the old Gasket didn't have a matching nub and the new one did. It's right at that spot that it looked suspect.



I really wanted to start it up and test but it's kinds chilly and I got in trouble last time for running it in the garage for "making the whole house smell like exhaust".

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Intake and exhaust leaks sealed up, enough ATF to get into and out of the driveway. I must have the linkage off by a little or something is hinky with the transmission because it wanted to die when I shifted into reverse, or somehow it's still too low on ATF with the reccomended 11 qts in it.

Anyway here's a video! I made the right choice with the stock design muffler, just the right amount of V8 rumble in the back.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_r7erVs75c

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!



Haha man that sounds so much like an FE. My best friend and I call it the boiling oil sound. Mopar big blocks are the (rock in a) coffee can sound.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, that's the right sound for a car like that. Sounds awesome.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


I declared that this weekend was going to have some old car time. Then on Saturday I wake up with a clogged and throbbing ear that rendered me irritated, half deaf, and in pain every time I burped or coughed.

Anyway today I got under the truck and firmly mounted the fuel pump to the frame, secured a new hard line I added and wrapped a bunch of wire in loom. That finally gave me the confidence to drive it again. First up and down the cul de sac and it was a little wild and died a couple of times. I figured it was still warming up and pushed it to the end of the block and around a corner and it was shaking like paint mixer. Got it back the the house and decided it must be misfiring so I pulled a couple of plug wires while it idled. Some of them made no perceptible change, and others threatened to kill it. One of the imperceptible plugs was totally black and oily. So I swapped for a new set of 7, which was all that Napa had and cleaned the other with a brass brush, and it was a world smoother. I made it to the gas station and back!

Of course it took me 10 minutes to get 5 gallons when I think it needed 10.... I still need to restore the vent lines to their original state and I'll drop them off to get steamed and coated while I'm at it. Since it'll be out of order I may as well drop the transfer case and clean and seal it up since it is literally the only piece of this truck I haven't worked on. Maybe I can get a smooth speedo needle out of the deal.

Good feeling though to get back in it. I compared to my Sierra it is so small and I had forgotten. The new clutch feels good, brakes are good. I tightened the emergency brake and it seems to keep the truck in place mostly. The incline of my driveway was a challenge.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Made it to the landscape yard and back with a yard of soil for the garden. Love driving it loaded up, totally different ride, takes a lot of effort to get around though! Actually used first gear when starting.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005



Oven Wrangler

Looks like a hell of a lot of work! I bet the place where you picked up the dirt was tripping about your truck.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


They couldn't have cared less actually! It was perfect that they just dumped it in with a loader, I should have taken a video it was like a commercial. Tomorrow I'll just fold the sides down and shovel into a wheelbarrow below without lifting it hardly at all, and dump. Pretty effective and easy!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Heading out for vacation but I did get some car touching in. Fired up the Galaxie, adjusted the linkage for the shifter and was able to smoothly drive in and out of the garage. Washed the hood and put it on too. I blame the heat pipe activated choke but if you start it then shut down and wait a while and start again while the engine is still warm its hard to keep running for a minute or so. This is more of a reminder to me to run with the air cleaner open so I can observe it.

I even pulled it out onto the street, turned around and put it back in the garage front wards. I'll now be able to fix the wiring to the rear lights as well as pull it in and out easier.

I got a laugh from my neighbor who's working on a 52 Belair who was sure he'd beat me to having his driveable. Made my day, and I of course his is already painted and has glass so I'm sure he'll be cruising long before me.

I really only pulled the Galaxie out of the garage so I could clean up the garage and put my new pickup inside and apply sweet graphics. Had a friend come over and help since it was a long one. I think it's pretty nice but I regret not asking how long it was, I want it longer. The beauty of vinyl is we can redo it in a couple years right?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Spent my weekend at a mountain getaway for a birthday, so not much doing back home. My neighbor made fun of my workbench of a trunk so I wanted to do some car touching this week somehow. I did find myself with a little spare time this evening though and decided to just clean out the cabin. I want to get the hydraulics for the top going again, it's definitely a precursor to the carpet and top.

I wiped up a bunch of dirt and hydraulic fluid from when it was decommissioned, flipping the switch on the dash does activate a relay so there's some good wiring at least. These lines are all plastic so I'll probably go for one of the full replacement kits considering the location and possible damage.

Remembering that it was completely disconnected I lifted the top up for fun. I also found something concerning.

That's it for now. I've got obligations again next weekend but the weekend after that I'm on my own, I plan to change the oil in the International, wire up the little lights, cure the leaks on the passenger side tank. On the Galaxie I'll take more junk from the trunk and move it to the basement.




StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Yall ever just feel like a car is haunted a little?

I managed to get all the taillights and reverse light working properly, at least once. The taillights seemed to just fix themselves, which was the first haunting. I took off the reverse switch which I had messed with before but didn't succeed, and today I figured out the wiring. A couple of times it cranked the car which startled me which was another haunting, but that's simple electrics. I was jumping the ignition circuit with the lighting power.

I discovered that the contacts for the fuses are all a little corroded. I'd get it just right and the taillights worked and the fan didn't work, then the fan would work and no lights. At the end of the night none of the dash lights worked and the fuse doesnt even get power. The headlight switch is brand new which makes that more annoying.

I took a break and spent a little bit checking out the circuit for the turn signals which never worked. I was feeling around under the dash and it started blinking. Haunted.

At one point I pulled every fuse and brushed the contacts and soaked with contact cleaner, but that didn't help. I need some kind of little thing to really get in there and give it a quick touch up. It's all hardwired too so it's basically irreplaceable. I mean, I probably could but gently caress working under the dash like that, snipping, crimping and tracing.

Here's a question for the group, I picked up the harbor freight battery disconnect switch, and it's meant to mount in a panel. I want to just mount it under the hood, the bracket that comes with the one from summit would be perfect but I can't find it alone. Any suggestions on where to buy? If not I'll just make one but I doubt I can do that and paint it for less.

A Small Car
Aug 24, 2016



It's not exactly the same bracket, but would this work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hEaAvtREALw_wcB

As far as cleaning the fuse panel contacts, what about something like a hobby sanding stick or one of those sanding needles? Or maybe even just folded up sandpaper to give it a quick clean?

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...


^^^ That looks like a winner to me.

I don't know what your romantic situation is like, but if you have a significant other and they do stuff with their nails, see if they have any emery boards laying around. Good for cleaning stuff up in tight spots like a fuse box. My Nova had some crustiness on a couple of the fuses but I sort of took the nuclear option with mine... https://www.americanautowire.com/sh...it-1969-72-nova

Doesn't look like they've got a kit specifically for your Gal, but they've got some universal kits with different options: https://www.americanautowire.com/sh...BFORD%3BGALAXIE

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


A Small Car posted:

It's not exactly the same bracket, but would this work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hEaAvtREALw_wcB

As far as cleaning the fuse panel contacts, what about something like a hobby sanding stick or one of those sanding needles? Or maybe even just folded up sandpaper to give it a quick clean?

I must have looked for an hour and couldn't find that! Thank you!



Boaz MacPhereson posted:

^^^ That looks like a winner to me.

I don't know what your romantic situation is like, but if you have a significant other and they do stuff with their nails, see if they have any emery boards laying around. Good for cleaning stuff up in tight spots like a fuse box. My Nova had some crustiness on a couple of the fuses but I sort of took the nuclear option with mine... https://www.americanautowire.com/sh...it-1969-72-nova

Doesn't look like they've got a kit specifically for your Gal, but they've got some universal kits with different options: https://www.americanautowire.com/sh...BFORD%3BGALAXIE

You're the reason I even thought of taking it off and seeing if I could replace it. But since it's hardwired I'd really rather not.

The issue with the Emory board or sandpaper is the shape of the contacts too. They're curved to hold the old round fuses and flared so you can insert them easily. I found some tiny dremel wool felt tips that I'm going to try with cutting polish and see if that works. I have some related ones that are exposed so I can play with them and a multimeter. I ought to get a new pack of fuses since the ones I have are a little cloudy compared to a replacement I put in, but the replacement was struggling too.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.



Cybernetic Crumb

The little wire brushes that come with the big dremel kits would probably work better than felt, and if not I just found out they make scotch brite style wheels for dremels. That would be about perfect if you can get in there at the right angle.

https://www.amazon.com/Abrasive-Buf...579141893&psc=1

If not you can make your own size out of a scotch brite pad and some scissors, and put it on one of the cutting disc mandrels.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Lloyd, those are what I want but I don't think they'll fit. Basically what I got are metal q-tips to use in a dremel. Which made me think...



And when applied with Emory (seriously) buffing compound, I was able to get some bare copper from a different part like this:



Middle is basically untouched and the top and bottom sections are looking newish. You can see a little reflection of the yellow wire in the bottom one. I tested with a multimeter and got very good conductivity out of this. It was almost impossible to get a reading from the center but from both shiny parts it was less resistance than the connectors directly. I have high hopes!

For anyone thinking of copying the drill was only good for getting compound onto the qtip then I took it out and polished by hand.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


I just spent $70 that's going to lead to spending a lot more. My dad found a cab for the International that he says in is great shape at an Auction and we set a low budget and won.

That means my outlook of "Let the body rot and scrap the truck when it's unsafe" moved back to "this truck is my practice project for car work". Thankfully this came by when the truck is working and I'm happy about it, or I would have passed. Now I'll patch the rusty bits on the cab, and do some mediocre bodywork to get the truck back up to an 8/10, so I can get the Galaxie to a 9/10.

Next steps, run it out of gas and pull the leaky tank, and drive up to Montana to pick up as much as I can. I hope there's enough that I can take extra to sell off too. Side note, it might have the older grille that I like better too.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


The little wool felt polishing tips worked a charm on the contacts. I used the emory compound and ran through each of them and everything works reliably now. At least everything that worked intermittently works reliably. No radio or clock but I'm sure they're boned or at least need local help too. I also got the parking brake light to work by cleaning those connections, and I discovered it blinks. The blinking did not help in fixing it, that's for sure.

I took apart the switch for the headlights to see if I could get the dimming to work and found that the resistance coil has an obvious break. I tried to solder it back but no dice today, the wire didn't want to accept the solder. I'll replace it eventually, honestly it's so dim that full brightness is ideal to begin with. I'll likely replace every bulb and the switch together.

casque
Mar 16, 2009


These https://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/swabs.htm are fancy sandpaper coated q-tips that might also work for a hilarious amount of money.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


casque posted:

These https://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/swabs.htm are fancy sandpaper coated q-tips that might also work for a hilarious amount of money.

Darn, I could have just dipped a tip in glue and sand!

Pics that I forgot, the busted resistance coil and what the holders looked like. I didn't take a clean pic I guess, maybe next time. I at least polished up that contact patch on the dimmer.


Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


StormDrain posted:

Darn, I could have just dipped a tip in glue and sand!

Pics that I forgot, the busted resistance coil and what the holders looked like. I didn't take a clean pic I guess, maybe next time. I at least polished up that contact patch on the dimmer.




It's probably nichrome, which doesn't solder well, as you have found out. It gets hot anyway, so a solder joint might melt apart even if you could get it to stick. You might try eliminating the smaller broken part, bending the wire down and crimping a splice on, or trying to screw something to it, or similar mechanical connection.

Or just do without dimming; that's what I do, haha.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Thankfully it's a part used on dozens of makes and models for at least a decade so a replacement is under $20.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Since I have convinced myself that I am going to paint these vehicles myself I decided to start one of the fun parts, acquiring tools. I started with the DA polisher, as that can get the most use.

And I have some godawful paint panels to practice on handy!

Reference shots of the IH, dirty fender. Flat. No shine. At least a 30 year old respray, could be a lot older. It's not even the original color, which is more green. I haven't washed it in years since the rust got so bad.




Tried out some iron remover for fun. At least practice the full process right? I washed, clayed and then this although now I think I reversed the clay and spray steps. Turns purple and you can see the bad dings.




Oh poo poo I think I overdid it.



I cobbled the scraps back together for a clean new reference shot.



I used Ultimate Compound and then finished with the Mirror Glaze polish 205. I took some intermediate shots but it's not that exciting. I think I can get on board with it being shiny though! I'm not doing any more to it now but for a long time I was convinced that it should just be left to rot away as I drive it. I may have said it before but the truck is a practice mule for all things to do on the Galaxie, so it makes sense to at least try.



Headed up north in two weeks to get the new fenders and see what else I can steal. I may end up cutting off cab corners and rockers with a torch if they look good, and inner fenders to resell.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


My big plan tonight was to get the convertible top going but I got two problems. First problem is I spent the first two hours of my free time washing, clay barring and waxing the Sierra. It looks beautiful, but I didn't need more pics so... sorry.

I took the pump apart for the top and cleaned up the internals. There was some surface rust or perhaps just dried ATF fluid on a few spots that came off nicely. The kit I got came with new check balls and new seals for everything. It went back together nicely and no surprises.

OK one surprise and this is where I need help. On one of the hydraulic connections was this little thing. It's not mentioned in the manual. I don't see it for sale anywhere partly because of cause I don't know what it's called. There is one wire to it. It was hooked up with a bullet connector that I haven't traced out yet. One of the Hydraulic lines connects and then a short line to the pump. I'm guessing it's like... A pressure switch? Everything I've seen shows the hydraulics connected without anything in between, so I probably won't put it in... But I'd like to know first! It's super dirty inside and out so if replace it and the hose was cracking so that's gotta go too.

It seemed like someone repaired this pump once before as there was a little galling on the bolt to hold the reservoir on, although it's also a three sided head so that could be from first assembly maybe. Nothing else looked screwed with.


StormDrain fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Oct 5, 2019

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


I put some power on the hydraulic gizmo and it shot a drop of fluid out. Must be some kind of booster or primer that was added later. Maybe original I don't know. Can't find the right search terms to find one like it.

Also the hoses I got have the wrong size fittings for the hydraulic ram, so that sucks. Emailing to see if I can exchange them.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009




It's a hydraulic solenoid. I'm guessing it was connected to a small valve block?

https://www.convertiblecylindersdir...627/8233432.htm

e: As far as i can tell, ford only seems to use 2 different ones based on year, and the one you have is a single fitting

https://www.convertiblecylindersdir...627/8233436.htm

Does the convertible top have an automatic lock or a second stage of movement?

Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Oct 6, 2019

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Thank you so much! I was searching for an hour and never got close.

It's not connected to a valve or anything, just straight to one of the connections of the pump. It got power with the up motion but not down. Kind of makes me suspect that there was an issue with the original and it was swapped with a complete system from a Thunderbird of the same year. That would explain the wrong fittings on the rams as easily as my supplier giving me the wrong ones. Although I don't know since the ranges of motion being equal would be surprising.

It did make me go back to the garage and look, and also realize that the crud built up on the end of the shafts was keeping the top from lowering all the way. I cleaned that up and it sure looks nicer with the top fully dropped.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009




That does kind of make sense. The t birds have 2 Rams, one for the deck lid that is activated likely through that solenoid. Your whole system might be run off the t birds deck lid circuit.

The Lincolnís of the day had all sorts of solenoids and limit switches.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter



https://i.imgur.com/Ab87ijN.gifv

StormDrain fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Oct 19, 2019

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!




Not working. I changed it to jpg



Shiny cars are happy cars. It's nice that you made yours shiny.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


meatpimp posted:

Not working. I changed it to jpg


Shiny cars are happy cars. It's nice that you made yours shiny.

I have no clue how to post a gifv right, it worked on my phone though.

I only made that little bit shiny. In a week's time I'll have new fenders and some loose metal to start the real shininess.

bennyfactor
Nov 21, 2008



Powershift
Nov 23, 2009




Pretty sweet. Was it a lot of work to get working, or just non-hashed parts?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Powershift posted:

Pretty sweet. Was it a lot of work to get working, or just non-hashed parts?

Not much at all really, just getting the right hoses. I had a little concern when it didn't go down all the way but there is a support that doesn't move right without a top on, when you help it flip over it works every time.

On Saturday I drove it up and down the block a few times to keep everything lubed and happy, and actually warm up the motor. Today I took everything out of the dash to get a pice of trim free, and get the radio and clock off for reconditioning.

The clock has a cracked cover and never worked. I took it off and found it was crimped
shut, but got it apart just to see. First off, I never realized how beautiful it is. Second, as soon as it was apart it started ticking. I learned how it worked, cleaned up the contacts with 220 grit sandpaper, and it seems to work great! Video below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jsy__havmHw

There's a weight with a spring that keeps it ticking, and when the contacts close it blows open, winding it again. There's no way this keeps accurate time but wow it's cool. The whole clock is mechanical and beautiful. The face had some dirt, oxidation or whatever but came clean with the gentle scrub of a kitchen sponge. I either need to buy or make a new glass for it, which isn't crazy, but idk how to get the plunger off to mount it.

The radio dumped about two tablespoons of sand from it, no wonder it didn't work. It'll get replaced with a new unit that looks vintage.

Wiper switch will get replaced, light switch, cigar lighter too. I started removing the instrume cluster but it will be painful to pull the speedo cable so I quit. Lots of stuff to clean and paint. I realize to really do this thing right I should paint the metal of the dash, console, and seats. Should be a good project for the spring.

All of the dash knob bezels are toasted, but I still think they're cool. They are clear plastic, painted on the front silver, with the lettering clear so lights illuminate the lettering. I also learned they have a sort of reflector housing so three of them together share a bulb. I assume fresh bulbs and a new switch will make it shine. I'm kinda looking forward to the detail work to get these nice.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


My dad and I tore down the old cab he bought for 70 bones. I have two good fenders, two great inner fenders, and a good hood from it. I forgot each fender has like 20 bolts holding it on, it took much longer than he thought. We ended up tipping the cab on its back to get a couple of bolts too. It had the grille I like but it was beat, and I broke the plastic insert anyway.

I also got a nice back glass and a lot of random parts like mirrors and trim. Rockers and corners were shot so I'll by new metal for those. Passenger side fender had a hole for gas so I'll fill that, and there's some minor work to get it up to snuff but the fenders are so much nicer than mine. The dash was shot, it was an automatic, but if we had found this two years ago I would have swapped it directly for my cab, the underside was in such good shape.

I'll update with pictures when I unload I guess... Since I didn't take any.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


I'm all pumped up to work on the truck, and a friend wanted to help so this was bed-off weekend.

The plan was to lift the bed up on saw horses, and roll the truck out from under. It all came apart fine. The bed moved a little when we were putting supports in and I scratched the cab, and some heavy steel guards for the gas tanks ended up in the way so they got cut off roughly.

I calculated the steel plate floor of this is roughly 450lbs, so overall with the boxes and sides maybe 550-600lbs. The back of the bed was initially resting on a sawhorse but when I pulled the accessories it raised up a lot. Ended up needing about 3" of cribbing in the back, and it was close.

I also cruised the neighborhood with no bed and boy does it accelerate easy! Bouncy as hell though.

Before and after pics. These new inner fenders have some surface rust but are great otherwise. They hold dirt behind the expansion tank and rust the hood hinges. I patched the ones on the truck but I'm swapping for these nicer ones. The frame and bed are going to be sprayed with rust encapsulator, the frame will get topcoated black satin, and the bed painted white. Ill start on the body after I knock that out, so I don't have too many open lines of work. There will be a few quality of life upgrades that I can do when it's cold out too, like new latches for the toolboxes.









StormDrain fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 16, 2019

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


Oh I hope somebody buys this before I do something dumb.

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bennyfactor
Nov 21, 2008


StormDrain posted:

Oh I hope somebody buys this before I do something dumb.



Man it's four hundred bucks. You already showed yourself how quick it is to swap that work bed off the back of the truck if you need it again in the future / have a sentimental attachment to that configuration.

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