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stevewm
May 10, 2005
Hell there are 2x 8-bay, and 1x 12 bay SuperChargers within 55 miles of my house. And they are all on major interstate/cross city routes. How many public non-Tesla DC fast chargers (50kW or higher) are there in this same area? 3... but each only has a single CSS and Chademo connector each, and they are most definitely in urban areas.

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stevewm
May 10, 2005

Powershift posted:

air cooled batteries.

I'm glad all the manufacturers are coming to the realization that this was a mistake.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Well poo poo, got a check engine light on my Volt on the way home tonight... Shortly after it switched to gas (been a long time since that happened). Code P2097... Looking it up it appears that GM put out a service bulletin about this code false firing on 2016-2017 Volts. They update some unit to make it stop. Mine never got that update.

https://gm.oemdtc.com/7325/17058-service-update-p2097-post-o2-trim-diagnostic-false-failing-2016-2017-chevrolet-volt

quote:

Summary: 17058 - Service Update. The post O2 trim diagnostic may falsely fail causing DTC P2097 to set, commanding a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) to illuminate. The vehicle runs and functions as normal with no other symptoms. Reprogram the Drive Motor Power Inverter Unit.

Between that, the active recall I need to have done, and now needing my first oil change (after nearly 2 full years!) I guess its time to visit the dealer.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Adding Juicebox, OpenEVSE (available as a kit or assembled) are also good options. ChargePoint and Siemens also make them, but they tend to be more expensive.

Personally I have a basic ClipperCreek 3.6kW unit. Had I known about OpenEVSE at the time I probably would have went that way to get the monitoring features.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

I just bought a 2018 volt. I live in a forsaken land and had to drive 230 miles just to buy one. Got a fully loaded premier with an out-the-door cost of 34k. Tack on the incentive as a downpayment on a refinance in March and oh my god a 41k car for like 26k.

I don’t know how I lived without adaptive cruise before but I’m ruined now. As soon as I got home I had to play Electrician. The gfci outside was fried, so I replaced it last night. It took 11 hours to go from empty to full at 12amp 120v. There’s going to be a two month gap where I’m not making car payments now so I’ll use that money to install a level 2 charger.

I feel like a kid again in this thing. 0-30 in 2 seconds lmao.

Welcome to the club!

Some random pointers, in case you didn't already know:

1. The EVSE/charger that comes with the 2016, 17, 18, and 19 Volts is actually a dual voltage, auto sensing unit that will accept either 120v or 240v. But GM put a 120v plug on it. With a simple DIY plug adapter you can feed it both hot lines and ground of a 240v circuit and it will happily accept it and charge your car at 240v and 12Amps (2.8kW) So a full charge takes exactly half the time of 120v. I did exactly this with mine until I ended up buying a hardwired 3.6kW ClipperCreek EVSE. (the max 3.6kW shaves another hour off a full charge time, taking approx. 4.5 hours)

2. The car has a 3.6kW max onboard charger. (240v/16A) You can install a higher capacity level 2 for future proofing, but the car will not take advantage of it.

3. Dunno if they are still doing this on the 2018 and 19... but at least on the 16 and 17 models, the entire interior is LED lights, EXCEPT for the rear cargo hatch light, which for some stupid reason is a very dim and yellow incandescent!. This bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCGFNB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . is a perfect drop in LED replacement that is about 20x brighter than the factory incandescent, and is also the same color temperature as the rest of the interior lights. It takes about 2 minutes to swap it out.

4. GM just announced a big recall concerning the brakes that encompases many vehicles including 2018 and 2019 Volts. I would make sure they performed that recall if your car was affected.

5. For service/warranty issues, not all GM dealers are Volt/Bolt service certified. A non-Volt/Bolt certified dealer can service any part of the car that doesn't have to do with the HV system, but outside of that you have to visit a dealer with a certified service dept. I'm lucky in that of the 6 GM dealers within a 50 mile radius of me, 5 of them are Volt/Bolt service certified. There are quite a few Volts of all model years around my area.

6. Some of the early 2018 builds had problems with the factory 12v battery failing prematurely according to many reports on the GM-volt forums. A failing/low 12v will cause the car to act very weird, throwing random and unrelated diagnostic codes, etc... When in doubt always check the 12v battery first.

7. VoltStats! - If you have a active OnStar service, you can register your car with VoltStats. The VoltStats website will query your car's data once a day and give you graphs on MPG, energy usage, etc.. My VoltStats page is here: https://www.voltstats.net/Stats/Details/8980 . You are supposed to get 5 years free of "OnStar Basic" on the Volt and Bolt after your initial free trial runs out. Basic gives you remote keyfob access via the OnStart app and also allows VoltStats to work.

8. The entire power train and battery and in fact anything considered part of the "Voltec" system are warrantied for 8 years or 100k miles (150k in California). It is both disappointing and surprising how many of the dealers selling the Volt don't actually know this. "Voltec" encompasses a lot, even including such things like the AC compressor and the AC system itself, as it is required for proper operation of the EV drivetrain. While not GM's site, this page explains it better: https://www.chevynorthcountry.com/parts-and-service/warranty-information/volthybrid-warranty/

stevewm fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 19, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

Thanks for all of this. So far I'm having a blast just tooling around town. The driving is so different from the mazda CX-3 I'm used to.

If you are going to have an outlet installed, the most versatile would be a 14-50, at least from a future proofing standpoint. But this requires a 50A breaker and wiring to match. And if you plan on using the factory EVSE on 240v, you would need to make a 14-50 to 5-15 adapter pigtail using a male 14-50 plug, a short length of 12ga or higher 2 conductor with ground cord, and a female 5-15 plug. This is not anything you can buy from a store, as you would normally NEVER plug in a device with a 120v plug into a 240v outlet.

If you are not comfortable with that, I would suggest getting a 240v EVSE that has the proper 240v plug pre-installed. There are many available. ClipperCreek is always a good choice. (ClipperCreek also manufactuered the EVSE included with the car!)

stevewm fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Sep 20, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

Yea, no problem with crafting that adapter myself, I'm an industrial electrician. The only reason I'm hiring an electrician to do my residential work is I'm not comfortable making alterations to this townhome since there are 3 other homes in this building. It's not just my house at risk, so I'm going to leave it to someone certified and insured.

Ah well then, sounds like it will be easy :D

Personally I went cheap with zero future proofing when I put my outlet in. I used a 6-20 outlet given that I only ran 12/2 wire (good for 240/20A on 50' or less runs). And then made the appropriate adapter. I eventually ended up getting a ClipperCreek LCS-20 hardwired EVSE and put that in place of the outlet. I now carry the factory EVSE and a few adapters in the car for opportunity charging.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

So far I'm having a blast just tooling around town.

Give sport mode a try!

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

Well it's a volt so it better be adequate because its as high as it goes :v:

7.2kW charger is available on the 2019 Volt now :D Standard on Premier trim, $750 option on LT trim. They are probably using the same 7.2kW charger as they do in the Bolt given there is already a lot of parts sharing between the two.

Speaking of the 2019 Volt, it appears GM updated the center screen to be running the same/similar software as the Bolt. It looks very close now, at least the Energy Screen does.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

I just did this today, perfect fit and I can confirm the 2018 still has a tiny dinky rear end incandescent on the hatch.

It sucks it's only available as 2 pack. Don't really have a use for the second one! The license plate light uses the same bulb, but I think that one might be a bit too bright for that purpose........

stevewm
May 10, 2005
If you don't need to go far, used 1st gen Leafs can be had fairly cheaply in some areas. You do need to check the battery health bars first though.

As for charging... Both Gen1 and Gen2 Volts charge at a max of 12 Amps on a regular 120v plug. (1.4kW) This means a full charge will take around 11-12 hours, at least for Gen2... Gen1's had varying battery sizes depending on year.

Things are much faster on 240v.. Gen 1 Volts (2011 to 2015) charge at 3.3kW. While Gen2 Volts (2016 and up) charge at 3.6kW. For Gen2, this means a full charge is 4.5 hours.

2019 Volts have a 7.2kW charger available as an option, which would cut full charge time to around 2.5 hours.

"Level 1" charging is 120v charging using the common household outlet. "Level 2" is 240v charging. While "Level 3" would be DC fast charging, which the Volt does not support.

stevewm fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Sep 26, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

My Volt did this but my entire car history is a 3.0 ford ranger and a 2.0 mazda cx3 so I’m not used to the concept of power.

Same here... The Volt surprised me... My entire car history is nothing but 4 cyl econoboxes. Going from that to electric drive with 294 lb-ft of torque is quite the difference. I also do quite enjoy sport mode.

stevewm fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Oct 2, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005

MrYenko posted:

Most new cars also have hilariously non-linear throttle pedals, where 90% of throttle blade motion occurs in the first 20% of pedal travel, so the car will seem “peppy” to idiots who are afraid of machines.

I absolutely HATE this on my old car... A 2011 Ford Fusion. The throttle response is such that it is nearly impossible to take off from any stop without giving everyone in the car whiplash. 1cm of pedal travel goes seemingly from 0% to 70% throttle.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
I've noticed lately I have been starting to see more and more EVs around my area (south-east Indiana near Cincinnati, OH) 2 years ago a Tesla or any EV for that matter was a very rare sight indeed. But now I regularly see a few S around town, a few gen 1 Leafs, some Model 3s and even one Bolt.

After seeing a few in person... If I was getting a 3, midnight grey would definitely be my prefered color. :D

stevewm
May 10, 2005

RZA Encryption posted:

I guess I meant "more than plugging it in would"

Shouldn't be any difference..

It's the same amount of power, wired or wireless.

Maybe you are thinking of how Qi charging on phones generates a bit of heat? That is mostly down to inefficiency.. Qi charging is at most 60% efficient; a good bit of the energy is wasted in the coils as heat, thus heating up the phone and by extension the battery given that it is often directly in contact with the Qi receiver coil.

97% efficiency on the other hand is probably the same if not better than using a cable and connector, given that connectors can be corroded and vary in resistance.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Time for the obligatory "winter stole my efficiency" post, or perhaps more accurately, the heater stole my efficiency.

From 115MPGe, to 65 MPGe :( Why couldn't you have used a heat pump GM? WHY?!?

stevewm
May 10, 2005

RZA Encryption posted:

Sounds like you need a driving snuggie

LOL

I feel like this will be an eventual As-Seen-On-TV product.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Tesla put a parts catalog online accessible to everyone.. Though I imagine actually ordering any of the parts will still be a pain, or not possible. But maybe it is a sign they are changing their stance on DIY repair.

https://epc.teslamotors.com/

stevewm
May 10, 2005
The 2019's also get some additional goodies such as driver's side power seat, and updated infotainment system. (using the same software platform as the Bolt now apparently).

The 7kW charger will provide a full charge from empty in about 2.5 hours. Whereas the standard 3.6kW charger takes right around 4.5 hours.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Ripoff posted:

Found someone to sell me one! Negotiation started about $3k under MSRP, then I got the Costco $500 discount, Uncle Sam’s $7,500 credit next year and since it’s through an “executive” Costco account, something like a $800 refund check coming at the end of the year. All at 72 months, zero percent interest. :radcat:

Currently getting “250+ mpg” (no gas usage so far) still can’t figure out how to tell the damned thing to chill out on the overly aggressive heating crap. It’s bitching me out for running the heat while I’m telling the system to run fan-only. Also gently caress Chevy for making the remote lock/unlock stuff $10 a month and the back-end OnStar stuff for $35 (hahahaha no.) It’s free for everyone else, but whatever, that’s capitalism.

The Chevy Volt is a good car, A++ would buy again.

The heating controls are a bit weird... Here is what it boils down to:

By default the car has a auto-defog feature enabled. When this is enabled, the car will automatically run the heater or AC depending on detected humidity or temperature in the cabin. It is kinda annoying in that you can't really get a FAN ONLY mode with it enabled, but it can be disabled. Go to Settings, Vehicle Settings, Climate and Air Quality, and un-check Auto Defog.

If the ECO or MAX buttons are lit, then the heater or AC will run depending on your temperature setting. If you want true FAN ONLY firstly make sure Auto-Defogis disabled, and then turning off either the ECO or MAX button off will put it into FAN only mode. If you have MAX DEFROST selected, the AC compressor will run till it reaches about 35 or so outside.

Also by default, the car will run the gas engine once the outside temperature dips below 31°F. On 16-18 models, you can change this to "Deferred" which means it then waits until 14°F. 2019 models have a setting to disable it entirely. To change this setting: Vehicle Settings > Climate and Air Quality > Engine Assisted Heating. Set it to Deferred. If you have a 2019, then you will have additional options here. If you plan on using pre-condition with the car in a enclosed space, under the same menu heading is an option for "Engine Assisted Heating Plugged In" Set this to OFF. Otherwise the engine could be started if you start a pre-condition while the car is plugged in.

I should note, that the settings I described are only available if the car is turned on.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

ilkhan posted:

And Im sure none of those settings are available through the app.

The On-Star app and system really is terrible... At least for the Volt, it lets you do the following: honk the horn, flash the lights, precondition the car, view charging status, and change charging settings from immediate to delayed. Any command issued to the car takes 1-2 minutes to actually go through, and it has bouts lasting several days where any actions will just fail repeatedly. I use it for pre-conditioning a lot during the winter, though I could just as easily do it via the key fob as well. But at least with the app you know the car got the command. I would never pay for it through.

Up until 2017 they used to include OnStar Basic for free for 5 years on new Volts and Bolts. Basic gets you the keyfob functions and status reports. Starting with the 2018 model year, they got rid of that and made it $10 with only a small 3 month trial period. I am grandfathered in on Basic and have it until 2023. It is useful to note, even if you buy a used 2016 or 2017 OnStar Basic still applies! It is supposed to be transferable and goes along with the car and you are eligible to get the remaining time.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Ripoff posted:

Oddly enough, I got an email from OnStar today claiming that I get 5 years of the free Key Fob access regardless of whether or not I purchase the OnStar package, which is exactly the opposite of what they told me on the OnStar setup call. :confused:

That said, the app is kinda lovely (though it is nice to see your charge status remotely and the aforementioned preconditioning) so I really wont fight it too hard if they do end up taking it away at the end of the trial. It’s cute but not at $150 a year up front.

If they are telling you it is available, then do this: Cancel your service on the On-Star website. It should notify you that your account is being changed to OnStar Basic.

Or do the method I did.. Remove all payment methods from the OnStar website, when the trial runs out, it should revert to Basic automatically.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Warrior Princess posted:

....... I’ll likely be driving a full EV as my next car.

Same here.... I've been lusting after a Model 3. And the fact that I am seeing at least 2-3 a week around town isn't helping that. It is surprising to even be seeing them around here, this area (South Eastern Indiana, about 35-40 miles west of Cincinnati) has always been a EV/PHEV desert.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Euro Model 3 will have CCS2 plug. And Tesla will be retrofitting Euro superchargers with an additional cable. Sounds like the 3 won't be able to do DC charging via the slightly modified Type 2 connector like S and X currently can.

https://electrek.co/2018/11/14/tesla-model-3-ccs-2-plug-europe-adapter-model-s-model-x/

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Well that was interesting to experience.... The Volt lets you dip into the reserved portion of the battery when out of gas! Though in some sort of reduced power turtle mode.

Ran out of charge in my Volt which was already nearly out of gas, and then went to drive home and forgot about the fuel situation.

Going down the interstate and the car bonged at me saying I only had 35 miles to empty, but only had about 10 to go. After a few miles it suddenly switched to LOW, and then 2-3 miles later, the engine powered off and it said "Engine Not Available" on the dash. It switched back to battery showing a range of LOW. Power seemed limited to 50kW. Couldn't get much more than 55mph completely floored, which was quite fun on the Interstate. Made it the remaining mile or so to the nearest exit.

If your Volt says low, it really means OUT.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Change of subject, but The Weber Automotive channel gutted the drive train of their Bolt and gave a overview of all the modules and how they are arranged and connected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gDILvW5yMg

They are also going to attempt to add the Fast Charging option to their Bolt as it didn't originally come with it.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

I'm terrible at knowing exactly how to buy a car, can someone help me out..

Can't help you with the carfax... But have some other pointers...

2016 and 2017 Volts came with 5 years of free OnStar Basic starting from the time the car was first sold. It is supposed to be transferable.

So if you do go forward with the purchase and want OnStar app access (charging status, remote keyfob), you can get it for free. The only issue is dealing with the OnStar people. You may have to call a few times to get someone who actually knows what they are doing and can re-activate it. Supposedly it is easier to do this by talking to the actual OnStar advisers by pushing the OnStar button in the car.

Also, make sure the active recalls/service bulletins have been done.. 2 of them where major ones that could result in the car shutting down while driving down the road if not taken care of. (one was to do with a cable installed incorrectly in the main 12v power distribution box, and the other one was a connector for the 12v charging system that could come disconnected resulting in the 12v battery no longer charging) If your buying from a GM dealer, they should have already have done them.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

According to my.chevrolet.com/recalls there are none listed, which means they have been fixed?

That should do it!

stevewm
May 10, 2005

spandexcajun posted:

I would guess the Model 3 battery pack may be one of the safest of all EVs currently available.

If you have seen any teardowns of the Model 3 battery pack... (https://www.motortrend.com/news/tesla-model-3-teardown-details/) All the cells are completely encased in a green potting compound, (https://www.motortrend.com/news/tesla-model-3-teardown-details/#tesla-3-battery-1-individual-cells-1) which I'm sure helps with cooling and probably helps prevent the pack from going into full runaway should a single cell fail.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

I bought that Volt! I'll post a better pic tomorrow when it's actually daytime, but holy hell is that blue good looking. In the meantime here a magical Pixel 2 and it's night sight taking a night time pic:



Awesome! Congrats!

That was the color I really wanted, but none of the dealers anywhere had one in stock in the LT trim, as I think it was a Premier trim only color. And I wasn't going to pay 40k just to get that color. So I ended up with my second choice, black.

Some random bits:

Don't know what your charging situation will be... but if you have followed this thread for a bit, you have probably seen mentions that the OEM EVSE that comes with the Gen2 Volt is fully 240v capable.. You need a DIY adapter to feed it both hot legs of a 240v circuit and it automatically switches. On 240v it is still limited to 12Amps, but it can charge the car in 5.5 hours on 240v instead of the 13.5 hours that 120v takes.

Some people also like these: https://www.amazon.com/Duosida-Portable-Electric-Vehicle-Charger/dp/B018A6QK7C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544590003&sr=8-4&keywords=LCS-20 Despite being super cheap, they seem to have a decent reputation among many PHEV owners. Will charge the Volt at its maximum 3.6kW meaning a full charge only takes 4.5 hours.

Myself I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek...keywords=LCS-20 . hardwired in my garage, the Duosida was new at the time when I bought my Volt, and I really didn't want to be the guinea pig.. So I spent a little more cash to get a known brand.

All model years of the Volt have a 8 year, 100k mile "Voltec" warranty that covers the electric powertrain/transmission, the battery, all the associated control modules, and even the AC compressor (it is an integral part of the battery thermal system).

When you plug the car in to charge on hot days, you may hear the A/C kick on and a cooling fan come up to full speed depending on temperature. Perfectly normal.

Frequent use of Sport mode will wear your tires quite fast :D . But it is fun!

stevewm
May 10, 2005
I usually only use L mode on twisty roads or stop and go traffic.

If it's mostly straight roads I prefer D so it coasts .

I do find myself using the paddle a lot, but even after 2 years I still haven't quite got the timing down. I end up stopping short a lot.

stevewm fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Dec 12, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APhRPSdmdmk

Weber Auto at it again, they completely dis-assemble the Bolt's motor/trans-axle. The professor really likes it, only 13 total moving parts in the entire thing.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

ilkhan posted:

13 seems like a lot for an electric.

He is counting every little bit that moves, including the bearings in that figure.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Yes... Yes it most certainly is. I long for warmer months when I get my full 50-60 miles back.

Have you tried Sport mode yet? :D


My next car will definitely be full EV. Not sure I could go back to ICE full time. When I have to use our ICE company car... it just feels so.... primitive.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Westy543 posted:

Yeah... my commute is like 40-45 miles (22 each way) so it'll cover one way at least. Though there isn't any shortage of public chargers here in Fremont so maybe I can get some extra mileage while at lunch.

In warm weather, and under 65mph speeds, 50 miles is no problem on a Gen2 Volt. I regularly get near 60 in summer, with the AC on! (The A/C barely registers, usually no more than 1% of total energy on a given full charge. Meanwhile the heater can use upwards of 20%)

In summer, and only country road driving (~45mph) I've been able to achieve 70 miles.

Edit: On 120v charging the Volt (assuming Gen2 here). A full charge actually takes around 15kWh due to charging losses. At the default 8A on 120v, (960 watts) it will take just over 15.5 hours. At 12A (1,440 watts) you are looking at around 10.5 hours.

stevewm fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 21, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Three Olives posted:

I stopped by the fast charger at Walgreens on the way home from visiting the in-laws and someone was charging their Volt on the level 2 charger that costs $1.50 an hour. :psyduck:

This is why I never bothered to use public charging. #1 I am trying to be a considerate PHEV/EV driver (I don't really "need" it, those with pure EVs do), and #2 it absolutely makes no sense financially or otherwise with a 3.6kW charger. All the chargers around here (Southeastern Indiana) are EVGo and start at $1.50 per hour. One hour of charging on a EVGo costs 50 cents more than a complete full charge does at home in my garage. (only about $1!) In addition a full charge on a public charger would cost many more times than the equivalent amount of gas to go the same distance. Even with a 7.2kW charger, gas would still be cheaper.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Westy543 posted:

7.2kW charging is kind of a big deal, does anyone know when the last chance to get a new Volt might be? They usually phase old cars out in September, right? Would that be earlier with the factory closing?

Also... the 7.2kW charger is an option, not standard. Here's hoping any inventory cars are ordered with it. Hasn't been confirmed yet if it is easily addable after the fact. Someone on the GMVolt forums was told by a salesman that it was dealer installable, but given that the dealers are typically totally loving stupid when it comes to PHEVs and EVs in general, they are probably wrong on that.

It would be nice to retrofit, but I'm sure any such efforts would be warranty voiding.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

RZA Encryption posted:

As an owner of a short range EV, I've felt that frustration seeing cars plugged in that didn't really "need" it, and I can see both sides if it. I want more EV miles driven, so go for it. I also want to get home, but it really just drives home (:hurr:) the fact that the charging infra demand is quickly outstripping supply.



This is why I don't bother with Level 2 chargers. The only way I would ever bother, is #1 there are several of them not being used as such to not inconvenience a BEV driver who actually needs it, and #2, they super cheap or free and #3, I am going to be there long enough to make it worthwhile. (1hr+)

In 2 years of owning my Volt, none of those conditions have ever occurred, because there are near zero public chargers in my area. The closest one is a EVGo station 45 miles away at a Walmart with a single L2 and a one combined CCS/Chademo station. The 2nd is a perpetually broken ancient Blink station with one L2 connector that is on the extreme back lot of a outlet mall.


quote:

It also makes me really regret not getting a spark with the CCS option. How did it go with that guy installing it on a bolt?

They haven't put out a video about it yet. He said they where going to attempt it when they started putting the drivetrain back together. He mentioned a couple of wiring harnesses needed to be changed and of course figuring out which software modifications to make.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Discovered an interesting behavior on my Gen2 Volt if you initiate a pre-condition cycle from OnStar/Alexa skill AND leave a keyfob inside the car...

The car will lock the doors, not start the pre-condition, and seemingly disable keyfob detection. The only way to unlock the car at this point is to use the Unlock button on another keyfob, or use the physical key lock under the cover on the driver side door. The button on the door handle will not unlock the car, even if you bring another keyfob into range.

So... if you start a precondition and accidentally leave your key inside, better hope you have a spare nearby!

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stevewm
May 10, 2005
Leaf E+ with 62kWh battery. https://insideevs.com/nissan-leaf-e-plus-62-kwh-battery/

Still air-cooled, but this time supposedly it is "active" (it has a fan). And they are hanging onto Chademo (no surprise there), but upgrading it to 70kW with a claimed 100kW peak depending on state of charge and battery temperature.

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