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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
If you're still considering V8 options, my first thought is a reverse-flow nailhead. Straight eight would be cooler if you can fit it, though.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

I have a rather unhealthy obsession with Kennedy tool boxes - for those that don't know, Kennedy is still in business and specializes in tool boxes for machinists (Ex. Lots and lots of drawers) They have been in business since 1911 and make a killer product - they are known for their beautiful felt lined drawers, krinkle finish and silky smooth drawer action.

Are they good? I like how they look, and their layout, but I've been disappointed in the drawer slides every time I try one out. And the metal gauge always feels flexy and inadequate. Lean into a drawer and try to close it, and the slides kinda crunch and stick, rather than the effortless glide I would expect from a high quality USA-made box.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Could be due to lack of maintenance, yeah. Most of the ones I've had hands-on experience with have been in surplus stores. However, my uncle was a machinist in the 60s and 70s, and then programmed CNC tools for the rest of his career; he had one too, and IIRC I even had to push the longer drawers closed from both sides; a simple press with a finger on the face of the drawer would just jam it up.

I'll take your word for it that this is not representative of their quality, though; if I get a chance to pick one up for cheap enough, I'll give it a serious consideration. Lobsterboy, I really do respect your opinion on these sorts of things; you have an eye for hidden value.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Wrar posted:

I know there is a lot of half joking here but modern child seats are huge leaps forward in safety. If you can emulate the LATCH system in modern cars it would add to the safety factor.

Nah, you know the rules.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Previa_fun posted:

I'm going to assume the baby in a classic thing is a joke but just in case it's not don't loving drive your child around in an old car buy something safe for god's sake. I bet you're a super good driver who never makes mistakes but all it takes is for one distracted driver or drunk to wander into your lane to ruin your life.

Smacking your head on a steel dash builds character.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

huzzah! I finished the neverending install of the elusive dual carb setup!



enhance



enhance



enhance!



so it didn't make that "omg its soooo fast" feeling, but it did really make the throttle more snappy, and it did definitely give it a bit more power - by snappy, i mean snappy for a 4' long inline engine, and by more power I mean its able to move a 6k lb livingroom on wheels down the road at a somewhat modern speed. where things really got interesting was on the highway, when you think of a 40s car you don't really think about freeways, but I really am shocked at how great the car is - now, my 1954 wagon, which is 6 years newer than this boat is capable of 100 mph, it stops well and generally feels more like a normalish car, the 48 for years has felt like a dog, if you were in a hurry and you were behind me leaving a stoplight you'd be angry. Now, it feels like it can get out of its way a bit better-

This owns super fuckin' hard. Those aircleaner housings are classy as hell, too.

I kinda figured a straight eight would have all the torque in the world, and just run out of steam quick because that long crank wouldn't want to spin at any kind of speed, but it sounds like I was mistaken. I'm glad it's got some go now, are you going to drive it more?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

what are these locking adjustable you guys speak of?

this?



i have a pair of these, and they are great. i just wish they were available in shorter lengths. i would love a 6" version

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
id certainly rather have something rickety, interesting, unusual, and free than boring, functional, and slick. but that's probably more a reflection of my defects than anything else

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

cakesmith handyman posted:

That's literally one of the main reasons to come read this thread.
lets see here
  • ogle at his cool stuff
  • marvel at his extensive knowledge
yep checks out

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Man, I wish I lived near you so I could help work on this stuff...
Or even near my coworker outside of San Jose, who's currently restoring a '67 Impala SS. I enjoyed my 2 weeks working in Southern CA back in ~2015, but I'm not sure I could afford to live there.

your coworker sounds cool

it's not that expensive here, you can find ok deals from time to time. i live in san jose, and im paying under $2500/mo for 2 bedrooms and a 1-car (that can't fit a car through the door, but thats beside the point)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

model t garage?

no, it's a duplex built probably in the 50s. garage is chopped up into thirds (front house/back house/landlord) so each section is deep but narrow.

my cars would fit, barely, width-wise, if the door opened all the way. its got sliding barn doors, but the slab has shifted over the years, so the door opens halfway before it wedges itself between the slab and the track

doesnt make a huge difference cause i have either space for all my tools/parts, or the car, so the car can sit outside i guess

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
there was a (gone, rip) local breakfast place in my hometown that did those, but it was more of a french toast kind of egg/milk thing, just with a whole egg in the bread too. they called them "hole in the wall"

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
how do you use a vintage battery? does someone rebuild them with new plates? can you desulphate a 70-year-old battery with any hope of success? were they new old stock, stored dry?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

sharkytm posted:

I think he means repro "vintage". Like Coker tires.

oh, i read that post as "there are reproduction ones, but heres my vintage one" but now that ive slept you're probably right, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
there's got to be a better way to retain the distributor position than that set screw. that was the factory solution?? seems like it wouldn't hold up to any kind of rpm

is the replacement screw a small enough diameter to only seat on the "low" spots on the dizzy, and not catch the corner of the bigger diameter right above? if not, maybe turn down the tip of the screw, so that it has a smaller snout? i can imagine how the chamfer on the original one would pull up the distributor before, but wouldn't a squared off screw not seat all the way?

nice work on the traffic violator decal. let me know when production is in full swing and you're ready to start selling them, i could be interested in one or five

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
those look great. definitely in for a handful once you're selling them for real

were they historically always on the windshield, or was that just a limitation of only having the one piece of glass?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

StormDrain posted:

You should find some kind of class or textbook for electricity to learn fundamentals. Understanding how voltage, amperage and reistance relate to each other would be a boost to your problem solving.

Examples, the switches won't matter since they just close a circuit. Chances are they'd handle 10x the current with no problem. Bulbs definitely will need to change since the increase in volts will double the current to them and they can't handle that. I would expect you're right on the horn. The solenoid on the other hand should be fine, double the voltage but half the current, and a quick Google says the starter can handle the higher voltage, but predictably will get hotter and spin faster.

The only ways that the switches/solenoid might care about voltage is that when it's "off" (open circuit) it needs to be able to hold the extra voltage difference without arcing, and the insulation between its inner workings and ground wherever it's mounted needs to hold the voltage.

If we were talking about a difference of 10x or 100x I would expect they would need to change. Since it's just 2x, it's probably fine. I'd hope the safety factor in these sorts of designs are much more than 2x.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

wallaka posted:

What me and my dad did 30 years ago is put a 6V voltage regulator to feed the points and coil and replace the light bulbs. Everything else was just fine with 12V.

Granted, this was on a 1941 Massey-Harris tractor, so it was a very limited wiring system.

i think chrisgt means the coil in the starter solenoid that pulls the contact closed. he's right about the extra power draw causing accelerated wear, but i was assuming that the duty cycle of the starter is so brief that it's not going to hurt anything. i could be very wrong about that tho

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

in other news, got a new distributor today - car wont run for crap

new like nos? is the condenser all dried out and useless?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
imo, why not both? the new jacks are soooo much nicer than the old ones, so if you're not super in love with that one, i would grab a new one.

however, you dont have to dumpster the old one right away. see if you can fix it, or have it fixed, at your leisure. if so, either you have a spare jack, or you find someone else to pass it on to, who can give it a good home

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ryanrs posted:

I bought this Sunex 2 ton jack for working on my minivan.

I think they are taking a lot of leeway wrt how much of the jack is actually aluminum, and 'lightweight'. Maybe it is lighter than other jacks, no idea, but it's pretty heavy in absolute terms. Or maybe it just seems that way because I have to carry it up 2 flights of stairs (condo).

That said, the build quality and mechanism are very nice. Dual ratio pistons, so it'll go from zero to the frame rail in 2-3 pumps.

at only 50lb it's less than half the weight of my floor jack, so that seems pretty light (arcan XL35, 109lb)

looks like the 3-ton HF Daytona is somewhere in the middle at 79lb

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

please someone tell me how to imbed these clips so they play.. whats the BBcode?

Lots of people parked off the side of the road, up to no good, looked rather perplexed when that many vintage cars would magically appear, then turn in to a graveyard at 10p on a Friday night.

a url tag around the actual mp4 or gifv should do it, like this

https://i.imgur.com/k6Xsds4.mp4

the post preview doesnt embed it properly tho

anyway, that cruise sounds like a perfect halloween outing. i wish i had a group of friends up here that did stuff half as cool

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
the same thing happened to one of the front hubs on my impala

it has definitely suffered from decades of "eh, it's fine" to be fair

you could weld up the race and turn it back out, but neither your car nor mine is rare enough for that to make sense

guess it goes to show that you can't shouldn't just ignore that noise for a little while longer

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ARTPUP posted:

Love the posts. So much hidden history. Can't believe what you can find in California. Garage sales there must be like "Yeah I got a '48 Tucker owners manual, front radiator from a '30 ford, and this old wooden airplane propeller - $100 bucks & you can take it all." Up in Canada, you'll find people trying to sell rusted junk for premium prices. 15 grand for a four door '58 chevy that's been sitting on the ground for 20 years. Sheesh!

That Indian bike is cool, but I'd also be worried about somebody breaking into my garage, stealing it and selling the parts. I hear a few stories of how people have lost their vintage motorcycles that way.

i was at an estate sale the other day that had some sort of ~30s front axle with leaf springs and some unidentifiable parts (in p bad shape) strewn about. you def can run into some deals if you're not looking for something too popular

i ended up getting an ancient battery load tester, a harbor freight engine stand, and a handful of random sockets/yankee screwdriver bits for like $40

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

my turn in the barrel posted:

I'm kind of curious if the actual LED bars in the bulb are somehow wired to take 120v ac directly without an additional step-down transformer since that's where most of the heat would be generated.

probably not, since leds are happiest when driven with a constant current source

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Rectal Placenta posted:

Edit: ^^^^ yeah, LEDs are diodes, so no ac since current can only flow one way through them

you can drive them from just straight up wall AC, but they look like poo poo. string a bunch in series until you have a larger voltage drop and limit the current with a resistor. but it will be running at less than 50% duty cycle, because it basically just forms a crude half-wave rectifier. cheap christmas lights do this

i cant stand it when the christmas lights do it, so i cant imagine how horrible it would be to have actual home illumination set up that way. you could do it, but it would be awful

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
hey LBX, im tuning up my Y-block and i wonder - who makes good points these days? all the parts stores carry cheap stuff, but i have no idea if they're sloppy junk, or if they're perfectly fine and better than stock. there are of course aftermarket parts that cost 5x as much, but i have no idea if they're actually better.

normally i would just get whatever napa has, cause they are usually one step better than O or AZ, but they're not super convenient to where i live now.

who do you usually like?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

When I ran points I really liked the Blue Point brand, of all the tune up parts, they were the nicest - the only thing I couldnt stand was the color of the caps and coils. - but now im strictly pertronix. I've heard every argument in the book, but I've literally never had a failure of one of them in 20 years of old car driving. I even put one in my roadster, they made one that fits an old Mallory Dual point.

is that the same as blue streak (which is a Standard brand)? that was actually what i was planning on getting, based on apparent build quality from photos, so i am glad to see it get a +1

yeah i thought about pertronix, but this vehicle i want to remain entirely oldschool. the only transistor in the vehicle is in the radio, which does not work. happy to keep it that way. fiddling with the points once a decade seems good enough for me lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
im generally not anti-modernization; all my other classics have electronic ignition. my javelin has a modern mallory electronic distributor, my impala had an MSD setup, and my chevelle has nothing but will be getting an LS swap. but my truck i want to stay clunky and original, as long as that's feasible.

it feels super weird taking this position opposite you, of all people, since you have lived the life much better than i ever could. i just want to keep this vehicle the same, and that's unique compared to my other ones.

if it becomes a big hassle, i might change my mind, of course, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

TMI straw that broke the camels back was one night it was super late, me and the guys were having a ball and the all you can eat korean bbq we ate earlier caught up with me - got in the car to go, dead battery - at no point was I going to make it home now - and honestly i wouldn't have made it home anyway, but at least I might have made it to a gas station bathroom - I'll leave it at that.

haha that's a hell of a story. compelling, too

what's weird is that i have had the polar opposite experience as you. my truck needs a set of points and a set of brushes in the generator about once a decade. the condenser tests fine but ill probably replace it anyway and keep this one as a spare, cause why not. i drive my truck like normal, no weird charging issues.

well, i do have an experience with the charging light coming on at idle and barely keeping the battery charged, but that was when one of the brushes was consumed to a tiny nub that was basically making no contact. i put a new set in and don't have to think about it anymore

i wonder if its just a matter of the late stuff having some of the corners filed off compared to the earlier stuff; mine's a '60, so probably a bit more developed than your 20s roadster

of course, now that i say all that, im going to have a hell of a time getting the points set up this weekend because it's been a decade since i last touched em, so i dont have the touch, not that i ever did

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

When you posted this, I had literally just got it off.

It wasn't as easy as wiggling it off, it took less than 3 seconds of map gas to get it to move, when it did it just slipped right off.



the next part was probably the most infuriating.



at this point the front motor mount was completely detached from the motor, the rear motor mounts were also undone and the transmission mount bolts were also loose, the front wheels were off the ground, the whole car was supported by the jack..

I even jumped up and down on the frame horns to try and make a bit more room for this thing to slip in but nothing was working -

the thing in the way is the front spring u bolt mounts and the support for the hand crank, undoing is no big deal, but re-seating it it is a PITA, so I bit the bullet and did it, a buddy came over and gave me a hand, at 930 at night. so then we put it all back together minus belt:



The new pulley is smaller for... reasons...

from: https://www.secretsofspeed.com/pulleys

https://i.imgur.com/ksG0n79l.mp4

I need to staple this to my forehead - the above image is a video, whats the correct bbcode?

anyway, if you see the video, for the first time the crank pulley is running very very nice and concentric.. so much so that the alternator doesn't move a bit. the casting for the lower alternator mount on these things is in the block, mine is wallowed out after many years, so no matter how tight you make it, it still has a bit of play. I also noted quite a bit less vibration at idle after sitting in the car for a minute.

I didn't have time for a test drive, so it will have to wait until next week.

and now, what happened:

https://i.imgur.com/4DA2hcRl.mp4

damit another video that doesnt work

dont use image tags for video links, just url tags. the forums software will turn that into an embed

e: although... now that i say that, it doesn't seem to work. it looks like they're just still images on imgur?? man idk

Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jul 10, 2022

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Elmnt80 posted:

So normally for mp4s you use url tags but there was some link fuckery. It's fixed now.

oh christ, i see what happened. he used the size-modifying letter at the end that works for images, so it turned everything into an image. i could not figure that poo poo out last night, good work man

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

so use url tag at original size is the fix?

https://i.imgur.com/W2BArgE.mp4

yes, looks good!

the size modifiers appear to only work on still images (and turn videos into stills if you use them).

man, someday i need to get me a real hot rod, instead of this modern (post-war, lol) muscle car poo poo

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:

in closing, I had great success today, I worked on the car for a good 4 hours and while I didn't achieve ultimate success, I did make some pretty giant breakthroughs and a lot is becoming clearer every time I have a success about this.

The whole time I was thinking that there is no mechanic in the world that I could pay to really figure this issue out, there is no forums/facebook group guru that could spot these issues, and the voices of the past shade tree bullshit that has taken place with this car has really hosed it up for me, for so long... there is also no goose-chase parts runs that would have solved this either. The ONLY thing that could have worked is if someone had given me a distributor out of a known running car.. but that is like gold.

I know these posts can be kinda boring and when I'm on a roll like this, i dont take too many photos, so I'm kinda just doing this so that I have a record of what I'm doing to these cars and can see the progress of them..

dude, you have become that guru. you are the source of truth for the rest of us. that's why you have to do everything the hard way. the true expert has no-one else to help him, i guess.

LobsterboyX posted:

I'll leave you with this, a friend came over today to shoot the poo poo and wound up helping me with the car nearly all day. He's a car guy too and he loves the little fiddly poo poo like this, so having him around was super helpful. He made a comment today that struck me as funny so I took a photo to understand it better

"when your in this garage, the only tipoff to the year is the barcodes and modern wd40 containers you have right next to the bench, what loving timeline is this?"



someone posted the other day about how their driveway looked timeless because it was full of 80s stuff with nothing "modern" (lol) in sight. i thought of you and the vintage life you lead, but forgot to post about it. now i dont remember what thread that was, oh well

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Rexxed posted:

The main thing about that lamp is that it needs a transformer that turns 120V AC (from the wall) into 12V AC (to go into the lamp). Most electronics these days have 12V DC power supplies so you need to shop carefully to find an AC one. The other requirement is that the lamp says it will draw 20 Watts, so the adapter needs to handle 20/12 = 1.667 amps at a minimum. AC to AC used to be popular because it's easy to just step down house mains power 10 to 1. Many doorbells still run on it.

I found this one on Amazon which has pretty good reviews and would probably work. It's 2A, which means it can run 24 Watts max, so it should handle the 20W the lamp may want.
https://smile.amazon.com/JAMECO-RELIAPRO-GPU481202000WAOO-Adapter-Output/dp/B01N5VZ68D/

I think the only possible issue with that would be the size of the barrel jack. I can't guarantee it'll fit but they list it at 2.5mm. There's a 1.5A one they also sell with a 2.1mm barrel plug that could potentially work but I'd be concerned it wouldn't handle enough current. If you get it and it works, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a label on the transformer or write on it with a silver sharpie to indicate it's 12V AC since transformers are easy to mix up and some devices can't handle the wrong kind of power gracefully.

this is all right on

it looks like a 2.5mm center pin to me, so i would go with that linked one

alternately, since there's no transformer or anything in the base of that, you could put in 12V LED bulbs that fit the socket, and use a DC power supply instead. or, heck, if it's just incandescent bulbs in there now, they won't care if it's AC or DC. Resistive wire get hot and glow, lol.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LobsterboyX posted:


the top.... you see something wrong with this? The old fella crashed in to it with the loader and put a huge dent in it right at the rear opening... dont quite know how we'll go about fixing this, but it also needs a trip to the blaster..

god this would make me SO loving upset. just incensed. all those decades, it stayed in perfect condition waiting for you, now here you are and some dip fucks it up for no reason.

i hope you got a hell of a deal on it after that

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ExplodingSims posted:

I'm up in Portland OR, and I still have completely ruled the Straight 8 out.

I thunk most of the legwork on the S10 frame would have been done, as it's already mounted under a Buick of the same model?

It's a slightly different body style, as it's this style with the Suicide Doors on it:



I thunk they all have the same wheelbase though?

Though he did say he was probably going to scrap it, so I might be able to pick up a second Buick now, lol.

if it's $800 for the frame, offer $1k for the whole thing and then you can decide which way you want to do it since you'll have both options. pick the body you like better and the frame you like better. sounds like you're not hurting for storage space.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

my turn in the barrel posted:

I feel like I'm threadshitting

no, but

my turn in the barrel posted:

need to start my own thread

yes anyway. your place rules, you should make a thread. what mid-century car do you have to go with it?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
happy birthday, lbx!

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
man i would be hopping mad at the indignity of my car being at a shop, and no work being done, and then they have the audacity to bang it around and gently caress up the quarter panel. like sure anything's fixable, but it's only original once. isn't that car still wearing its original paint on most of it?

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