|
LobsterboyX posted:
this is really cool and one of the only good features to come out of social media. what’s your IG?
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2020 20:50
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 14:41 |
|
|
cool post — I worked in shops for years, haven’t seen a Girvin Proflex fork since... 1996? that headset setup seems a bit off; is it frankensteined from the 1” cups that were already in the frame? I think I have the original manual for that fork filed away if you want a copy, iirc the top spacing has to be very specific for the shock to behave proper. how does it ride with the slacker head tube of that bike? I think one of my favorite riding characteristics of klunkers, or just old bikes in general, is the slack-rear end head tubes and tons of fork trail. they’re just so sleepy while still being carve-y. I think my ‘55 DL-1 is something crazy like 67°. it rides the way old cars drive. the rest of those bikes are amazing, great collection. I’ll have to snap some pics of mine someday, I have a few weird things you might be interested in... though I mostly geek out on the 1930s -> post-war British stuff personally. just picked up this ‘61 Raleigh Supurbe a few weeks ago to add to the fleet, it has every option you could get at the time, like a weird locking fork crown 
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2020 12:38
|
|
|
this is easily one of my fav threads in AI, love your posts also I dug thru a bunch of boxes looking for that Girvin Profles manual for you but came up short... I did find a grainy one online tho, that does specify a 43mm gap for the spacer
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2020 20:11
|
|
|
LobsterboyX posted:Thanks man! thats super cool.. so without breaking out my calipers, looks like I'm doing... ok... ish? really nice to have those torque specs tho- well based on this pic  it looks like you’ve only got about 10-15mm. it changes the angle of the shock relative to the frame and makes it more likely to hit the head-tube (this is more of an issue on aluminum frames that have fatter tubes); it also changes the angle of contact for the top bearing race slightly, since the shape of the parallelogram is now different. looking at that photo tho, you’re gonna be limited by the length of the steerer tube; if you added 20mm underneath, the top bolt of the stem would just be compressing air, not steerer, and that’s bad. I’d probably just leave it if it’s not contacting the head tube when the shock compresses, or messing with the bearing adjustment as you turn the fork. the riding characteristics you describe are probably not helped by the fact that that fork was designed with a rake for a 73-ish° head tube angle, and that frame is... most likely slacker than that, probably like 68-70° (my 28” wheel Raleighs are 67°; it takes some getting used to but I love it now). it’s not unsafe per se, it’s just gonna feel “floppier” when you steer, especially since now there’s a fair bit of travel to the fork. this is why you very rarely see modern suspension forks on klunkers; except for really long-travel stuff like downhill bikes, everything is designed for (relatively) steep head-tube angles. LobsterboyX posted:then theres this, the cadillac of bikes, the roadmaster luxury liner nice — that roadmaster is really lovely. IIRC those are oil-based paint too so you can make them really shiny by just rubbing oil all over the (clean) painted bits and wiping it all off a day later. takes away a lot of the white-ish patina. patina is pretty cool though, so there’s that.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2020 10:12
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:The early Michelin man was terrifying. he used to be even scarier! the earliest ads for Michelin were him holding up a martini glass full of nails and broken glass and poo poo. he was originally called ‘Sir Bibendum’, bibendum meaning “time to drink”
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2020 15:24
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 14:41 |
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Best photo in the bunch kid knows what’s up
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2020 13:17
|
|
