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  A couple years ago I bought a 2001 Subaru Outback limited as a winter beater/commuter. It had about 225k on the odometer and ran all right but had some issues like any car with that much use. In the meantime the other cars I've owned have been broken more often than not, so it's become my primary car. I've done a few little things to keep it on the road, but I decided recently that I just need to go ahead and fix it up to either sell it or have it be enjoyable and fully reliable. Reading project threads in AI over the years inspired me to do work on the car myself rather than take it somewhere. So I figured I'd make a project thread of my own, at least to keep me motivated. List of stuff that has been replaced/fixed: Alternator Serpentine belts AC recharge Battery Battery terminals Tires Rear hatch area windup cover Some of that was me shotgunning parts early on. TO FIX: Rear hatch handle/latch is rusted shut(spring rusted to pieces) Driver A pillar trim is missing Passenger lower dash bolster is torn up Car occasionally cuts out electrical system when cranking (grounding issues? Security system?) Misfires under heavy throttle when leaving intersections/ on ramps (spark plugs? Coil pack?) Everything leaks (it has 250k miles, I will just add a quart every 1k, nbd) Transmission does not like to shift into drive on cold starts (reverse is okay; will shudder into gear if throttle is lightly applied for a few moments) Body rust, rear wheel arches Windshield has some cracks in 1 (but not all) of the laminations. I think this is from the wiper heater. Maybe. Brakes (in progress, see next post) Of course, any guidance or suggestions would always be appreciated. I am phone posting so sorry if this looks like poo poo.
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Nov 23, 2018 01:18
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I am procrastinating on picking up that exact hatch handle from the dealer - it also fits Saabarus. Handle was originally 62150AA210 but has been replaced by 62150AA211. No idea what they fixed, if anything, in the revised part.
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Nov 23, 2018 01:23
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Brakes: So earlier this week the brakes on this hulk started making a real unpleasant grinding noise, and, at a stop light a couple miles away from my parents' place, where I would be spending the Thanksgiving holiday, there was a fun little metal clank that turned out to be one of the brake pads falling to the ground. Hooray. So I had some parts overnighted My extended family had our thanksgiving party yesterday do to work scheduling, so today, with everyone else in a tryptophan coma or at their job, I spent the afternoon trying to replace the brakes. This is something I've never done before, but one of the few great things about 2018 is that there are several well-documented tutorials about replacing the brakes on my specific make and model of car on youtube. The tire shop must have had some serious air tool power when they put my wheels back on, because even all 6'6" 300lbs of goon bouncing up and down on the tire iron didn't free up the lug nuts. So I got one of these:  And some sockets. You need 14, 17, and 19 for all of the nuts/bolts on this brake job, but I thought I'd get a deal on set of 10-18mm shallow impact sockets and by just one deep 19mm for the lugnuts. This was wrong. Once you get the car up on stands and the wheel off, it looks like this, nice and crusty.  There are a couple 14mm bolts that are behind the caliper and easy to get off. The caliper itself hangs real nicely from the bottom of the extended spring, not stretching the soft brake line or anything:  (passenger side image)These are the old pads of the drivers side. The outboard one has a decent amount still on it, though it's uneven. Not really sure what that means, but whatever. The inboard pad had .. maybe 1/8th of an inch of friction material still on it? So, yes, time to change the brakes.   There are two 17mm bolts that hold the ... outer caliper? bracket? onto the hub assembly. The lower bolt is easy but the upper bolt I could just barely get the nose of the power tool in there because there's a much larger bolt head interfering with it from the shock mount. Got that off, used a hammer on the back side of the rotor to knock it loose, hosed down the new caliper with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, put it on the wheel studs. Installation is the reverse of removal, although I had to go to a walmart that was in the midst of preparing for Black Friday madness to get a clamp big enough to push the caliper cylinders back in. Drivers' side is done.  The crumbly stuff on the ground is a bunch of flakes of rust that came off with the old caliper. Midwest winters, man. Passenger side:  Sorry for the blurry photo, but the passenger side seems to be ... missing something. Taking the rest of the caliper apart on this side was more difficult. That big bolt head that kind of intrudes on where the impact driver should go intruded a whole lot more on this side. If I would have had a deep socket, this wouldn't have been a problem.  You can see the bolt head that gets in the way just to the left of where the shallow socket is. The body of the socket, if it were a deep socket, would just barely clear that bolt head, but anything else? No dice. So, I tried to build out some space for the driver by using some ratchet extensions. That was another bad idea.  Yeah the extension sheared off at the attachment point. Should have seen that coming. At this point, it was dark so I gave up for the night. Tomorrow I may go brave the nonsense and try to find some Sick Black Friday Doorbuster Dealzzzzz on a deep impact socket to finish this. Seat Safety Switch posted:I am procrastinating on picking up that exact hatch handle from the dealer - it also fits Saabarus. From the color-matched self-tapping screws holding in the rear hatch's interior trim, I don't think this is the first time that this part has failed on mine. I wonder if they have changed something. Thanks for the part number!
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Nov 23, 2018 01:51
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Swiveling impact sockets are nice. A set at harbor freight is pretty cheap https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-swivel-socket-set-67911.html But usually I can just get a socket on an extension in there. Or use a wrench. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Nov 23, 2018 |
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Nov 23, 2018 02:19
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I got both an impact rated extension and a deep well socket, and between one and the other the passenger front brake replacement went pretty smoothly. Pedal feels much better, and the fluid level in the brake reservoir is up almost to the 'max' mark. I should still probably flush the fluid soon regardless, but that was a nice bonus. However, the back brakes have a couple of 14mm that are accessed through cut outs in the suspension, and between the rust and not really being able to get a good view of them I failed to get the lower bolt off the driver's side and the upper bolt ... well, it is married to my 14mm impact socket now. On the car. About the only good place I found to jack the car up was the mount of the trailing arm to the body. Everything else (the pinch seam, etc) was a little bit too crunchy for my liking. Because of that, I couldn't really get the car up very high on the jack and I had even fewer places for the stands. If I could have gotten it up higher, I might have been able to actually give those last two bolts a proper fight. Need to figure out if I have any friends with a lift. jamal posted:Swiveling impact sockets are nice. A set at harbor freight is pretty cheap Nice. Added to my wish list. It is almost Christmastime after all.
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Nov 25, 2018 04:16
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I usually jack Subarus up by the jacking plate under the engine, and by the rear diff. Then it's super easy to slip in jackstands. Obviously you only want to do that with a trolley jack. Most of my cars didn't even come with the pantograph jack for some reason 
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Nov 25, 2018 07:04
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I have one of these (a 2004) that has 270k on it and is still going strong. Mine only leaks a quart every 1500mi which I understand is great for a Subaru. I have other cars but the outback is the one that just works every time. Slowly.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:14
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Those calipers need to be either rebuilt or replaced imo
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Nov 26, 2018 03:44
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The caliper slides need to be removed and greased otherwise they seize up and wear your pads down unevenly which looks like the issue in your pics. Since its a rust belt car check the brake line junction under the passenger side rear seat area, those rot out in the rubber grommet and you lose brakes. You can flare in copper nickle line from the junction block to unions inside the car. The rear trailing arm bushings are known to go bad. Check the rear subframe for rust. I've built two of these generation legacies and they're great cars, but rust will condemn them to death.
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Nov 26, 2018 16:57
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Well I either overtightened or undertightened the front left lug nuts.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:52
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bennyfactor posted:
Your ac system is leaking if you didn't already know. AC should never need a recharge.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:00
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Don Lapre posted:Your ac system is leaking if you didn't already know. AC should never need a recharge. 
bennyfactor fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Nov 30, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 21:07
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Good on you for taking the plunge to fix something yourself. I'd replace those calipers too, personally. When you try to bleed it, I have a suspicion you'll shear off the bleed nipples when you go to loosen them anyway.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:13
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vQMxHvQKuU
bennyfactor fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Nov 30, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 21:19
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Welp
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Nov 29, 2018 21:49
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bennyfactor posted:Welp Appears to be overtightened.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:56
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Guess you should add a torque wrench to your list of tools to buy. $20 from harbor freight is fine for stuff like lug nuts and suspension parts etc.
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Nov 29, 2018 22:47
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How did you tighten them back on? If you used your gun, you probably did what the guys did to you and fatigued them even more. I use my impact set to the lowest setting to zip them on and then torque them with a torque wrench after. Looks like you'll have to get some lug studs and pound those suckers out.  Not a fun job but could be worse. Worst case is a new hub if that doesn't go well. And since it's a subaru with the dumb ball joint pinch bolt on the knuckle (at least the newer ones did maybe I'm wrong here), that ain't coming off easily on a rust belter. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. I had no shame in dropping off the entire knuckle to a machine shop and paying them to sort it out because what a pain in the dick.
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Nov 30, 2018 01:12
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Thanks for the input, everyone. Yeah, I probably overdid it on the rattlegun. Had it on the lowest setting but still it 'clicked' a couple times on each one of those bolts on that tire. I had run the other side's nuts back on by hand with the tire iron. Also, I had no idea that wheel studs were separable from the hub. Had already priced out a new hub and ball joint and a press and all the sundries. This is going to be at least an order of magnitude cheaper from either the dealer or autozone. Subaru P/N 28055AA003 , Dorman 610-401. And will def hit up harbor freight for a torque wrench this time. What is the hivemind's opinion on that rotor? The perimeter is scraped up but it doesn't look like much of the swept surface got chewed, if any. Most of the weight of the car ended up on the fender beneath the A pillar, and bent the trim pieces there. Is the rotor toast? Speaking of brakes, I appreciate the concern about the state of the calipers; these have little stainless steel inserts for where the pads are supposed to move back and forth. I got some new ones when I bought the pads & rotors (because I wasn't sure what they were) and put them in during the swap, just forgot to mention that part. Old ones were pretty crudded up.
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Nov 30, 2018 06:02
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If the rotor has a smooth face (aka the part that hit the ground isn't mushroomed up) then you can try and run it. It might be hell for wheel balance, though. I'd definitely try to do just the studs before doing the entire hub because gently caress working on that rusty mess any more than you have to. This requires taking off almost no parts and some therapeutic hammering, generally. Sounds like you replaced the shims and guides, which is always good. I always put a thin layer of grease on them to allow the pads to slide easier and not make noise. The caliper stuff that may be a problem later are the slides (2 long bolts/pins on the back side of the caliper that you grease when changing the pads) that can seize up, and the bleeders. If the slides are ok and didn't have any signs of corrosion on them and the caliper moves freely, then you may be ok with just new grease. For the bleeders, use a lot of penetrating fluid and maybe heat to get them free. Also use a socket on it initially vs. a flare wrench in hopes that you don't round the hex on it. Then switch over to a flare once it's broken free (if it breaks free instead of just breaks  ).
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Nov 30, 2018 14:44
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To install wheel studs you use a punch and hammer the old ones out or put a sacrificial lug on and hammer it out of the taper. To reinstall you can use a proper install tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22 or a sacrificial lug nut and two washers with grease between them and if it isnt open cut the top off with a grinder. I've used both methods. gently caress removing the hub because you will break the ball joint taper bolt off without heat and you need a press to press the hub out. Press work is easy to gently caress up if you are inexperienced.
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Nov 30, 2018 22:47
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https://youtu.be/PjbAv9gIgkQ
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Dec 1, 2018 05:22
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Well, I used the tie rod end puller method to remove the studs, and I got two out -- one that still had most of the shank and one of the stubby ones. I was working on the one towards the top of the picture, but the tie rod end puller kept slipping off and was starting to cut the hub plate. I was losing the light for the day (at 4PM ugh) and gave up for the day. I hosed the remaining studs down with wd-40 and will try at lunch again tomorrow. Here's the progress:  Part of the problem with the tie rod end puller is that the one I was loaned by autozone is all chowdered up and wants to slip off (what's left of) the stud.  I've been using a breaker bar on it that I got from HF yesterday. Am I doing something wrong? Should I try to find one in better condition? I'm concerned about going out and buying like an air chisel or whatever because at some point I'm throwing good money after bad.
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Dec 2, 2018 23:02
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Your bearing is already chooched from when it hit the ground. Take a BFH and whack them out. Its super easy and doesn't require your ingenious back alley tie rod tool method. Then use some washers grease and a sacrificial lugnut when installing the new studs.
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Dec 3, 2018 00:52
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clam ache posted:Your bearing is already chooched from when it hit the ground. Take a BFH and whack them out. Its super easy and doesn't require your ingenious back alley tie rod tool method. Then use some washers grease and a sacrificial lugnut when installing the new studs. Took your advice and, while I could not get a good whack at them with a sledge, it only took a couple hits with a ball peen to knock the last three nuts out. While I was getting the washers I saw this "wheel stud installation tool" which is basically a big thick washer with a skateboard bearing in it. It was  so I figured why not?So now to find a replacement wheel. I called around to a few junkyards and one has match, but they want the old wheel. The tire is still good - - should I have someone remove it and put it on the new wheel later, or is that junkyard being unreasonable?
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Dec 9, 2018 01:50
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It's probably just a core charge. I'd ask about it. Might just cost a little more money if you don't give them the old wheel. How badly damaged is the current wheel?
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Dec 10, 2018 15:13
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Suburban Dad posted:It's probably just a core charge. I'd ask about it. Might just cost a little more money if you don't give them the old wheel. Well, four out of the five holes in it are more oval that circular. I wouldn't put it back on. Core charge is an interesting point. Will call them again tomorrow.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:58
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A junk yard wants a core return? I've never heard of that before.
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Dec 12, 2018 20:53
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I know one of my local places here in  does it.  http://www.ryanspickapart.com/Home/PartPrices
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Dec 12, 2018 20:59
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Core exchanges are optional at our junkyards. If you don't, no big deal it's just going to cost more for the part if it benefits you to keep the core rather than exchanging.
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Dec 13, 2018 00:16
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Sounds like the junk yard wants to sell parts, but also cash out on the scrap metal. $/lb doesn't care if the parts are fuckered or not. It's pretty clever really, if you've got a stream of people willing to walk in and give you scrap metal for *free*, why not implement some policy to encourage it? Bet you could bring in any old part for the 'core' as long as you're swapping starter for starter, alt for alt, etc.
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Dec 13, 2018 02:36
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NoWake posted:Sounds like the junk yard wants to sell parts, but also cash out on the scrap metal. $/lb doesn't care if the parts are fuckered or not. It's pretty clever really, if you've got a stream of people willing to walk in and give you scrap metal for *free*, why not implement some policy to encourage it? Bet you could bring in any old part for the 'core' as long as you're swapping starter for starter, alt for alt, etc. Pick n Pull (and plenty of other yards) charges a core on stuff like sensors - even little poo poo like a MAP sensor. Other small stuff too, like window regulators. It's not just the scrap metal. They send the used parts off to be remanufactured, just like a parts store. But their core charges are usually so low that it's not worth going through the hassle, unless it's something like an alternator. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Dec 13, 2018 |
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Dec 13, 2018 07:25
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bennyfactor posted:Well, four out of the five holes in it are more oval that circular. I wouldn't put it back on. Core charge is an interesting point. Will call them again tomorrow. See how much the core charge is so you can just pay it on top and see if it is worth your time to drive back there for the refund after getting the tire swapped over cakesmith handyman posted:A junk yard wants a core return? I've never heard of that before. Its a good lump of metal, why would they not want a core back The Toyota Aygo gearbox I bought from the scrapyard here in Nantwich had a £50 core charge on it
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Dec 13, 2018 19:13
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bennyfactor posted:Well, four out of the five holes in it are more oval that circular. I wouldn't put it back on. Core charge is an interesting point. Will call them again tomorrow. You didn’t overtighten the studs...they came loose. You can literally wail on a factory WRX wheelstud. Kaptainballistik fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Dec 14, 2018 |
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Dec 14, 2018 11:32
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Little to report because it's the cold season finally, I was able to get the remaining wheel studs of with one or two whacks of a ball peen hammer, and new ones went in easily. I am pretty certain now from looking at the old studs up close that one of them was definitely overtightened and was shorn off, there was variation in the thread pitch etc. Anyway regardless, I got a replacement oem wheel off ebay shipped for less than the junk yard wanted and the tire replacement/mount/balance was free under road hazard coverage. Had it out for the first time again going to and from a friend's wedding in a snowstorm. Held up admirably compared to the couple of brodozers that zoomed off into the ditch. The front fender is gakked on the side closest to the door but that will have to wait for the spring to get fixed. Could maybe bend it back to look normalish at 20' but the plastic outback trim is all out of whack and kinda brittle.
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Jan 21, 2019 03:04
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so does it still run
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Jan 22, 2021 05:42
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Eaten By A Grue posted:so does it still run Eh eventually the front driver's side bearing got noisy, and the power steering dead zone wobble annoying enough that I sold it to a junkyard the week before last thanksgiving. Motor still ran, though.
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Jan 23, 2021 00:01
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