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Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Raised by Hamsters posted:

I live in Wisconsin, but no one that I know actually swaps out winter tires from all seasons. But, just today I also bought a new Subaru Outback - This will be the fanciest car I've ever owned and I want to take care of it. I'm also a little worried that the all wheel go will tempt me to overdrive conditions in winter. Thinking about getting a set of steel rims and some winters - What do you do to store these things though? stack them up in the basement for 8 months of the year? How huge of a difference do these really make, if you've spent your life driving without them?

Remember winter tires are not just for snow. Their main advantage especially places like Wisconsin is that they stay soft and grippy in sub zero temperatures.
If you can find yourself some Sumitomo Ice Edges, they are cheap and really decent.

Pro tip. Thoes of you who are extra fancy and trying to get hakkapeliittas you gotta jump on them early cause the US only gets a small supply every winter and they go quick.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Apr 22, 2019

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Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Number_6 posted:

Anybody in this thread have any direct experience with either the Michelin Pilot A/S 3+ or General GMAX AS-05? Based on Tire Rack etc., the Michelin seems to generally get the best reviews for an all-season performance tire; but some owners comment on tread noise and/or a somewhat harsh ride. Reviews of the GMAX AS-05 tend to comment on tire noise and sometimes on flat-spotting when the car sits, which is a phenomenon I particularly hate.

No direct experience but looking at both seams like you would get longer life span out of the general at a better price point and they have more siping than the Michelin. Looking at the tread design of the michelin i would bet they suck rear end in snow if that matters to you.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Not sure I would guess the latter. Denver is one of the largest tire hubs in the country and I can only find them from one distributor.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Fabulousity posted:

Out of curiosity I looked up if tire siping is still a thing and it seems that it is. So Michelin drops a few million on R&D when developing something like the Pilot A/S 3+ but you're telling me that you're gonna make the tire better with this one trick they don't want you to know about which is cutting the gently caress out of the tread? Yeah, okay. Maybe on very worn tires (which you should replace) or some kind of bottom of the barrel budget tire with a tread designed by a coven of doulas.
What's worse is that tire shaving is a thing. Don't wanna replace all 4 tires on your awd cause of a screw in or near the sidewall. Some shops will shave a brand new tire down to match your other tread depths.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



jamal posted:

I've spent a lot of time on both and the ws80 has noticeably more grip on hardpack snow and ice. It has better rubber and more small biting edges. In deeper snow and slush yes I would give the general the edge as it has bigger voids between the tread blocks. I expect you'd have a similar experience with any of the the other "performance" winter or ice-traction oriented treads.

Hardpack and Ice you wanna get into the stud territory and sorry if you live in a state that outlaws it.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Modus Man posted:

Nobody's taking the wheel off the vehicle, dismounting the tire from the wheel, repairing it (inspect, clean, drill, buff, glue, patch, seal) then mounting the tire back on the wheel and possibly servicing the tpms and back on the vehicle for $10.

I commonly see $25-$30 for a repair and maybe another $10-$20 to re-balance it. I suppose you could get a new tire for double that, depending on the size and quality of the tire.

We do all that for 21.50 and people scoff all day at me even at that price.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008




Sensors have gone down in price tho. Used to be like 120 now they are about half that at 69. And I dont charge extra to put em in the tire you already have. And thank gently caress Ford did away with band sensors.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



I love people comming in for a TPMS light and all four tires are at 50 psi

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



julian assflange posted:

I just got some new Pirellis and they are much quieter than the old Pirellis. A bit silly to spend so much when we do only 6000km/year but in an electric car you hear and feel the difference immediately. It's magic carpet level now

You shoulda sprang for the Tesla Michelins that have foam on the inside for extra less loudness.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



CornHolio posted:

I've been using Tire Rack's website (and will be buying from them most likely) and I'm tempted to go with another set of Sumitomos because I like them enough, but yeah they only lasted about 20k miles. Those Vredesteins look like they'd last even less.

20 with an XL and a Y speed rating puts you in the 200+ a tire club if you want them to last. The Sumi (You got the PO2)? is decent (they made Falkens donchya know, also just a wild huge holdings company) but you gotta be on them rotations with them as they are on the softer side but all that said, your car needs an XL load rating and a Y speed rating tire which the PO2 is not. You should be in Michelin Pilot Sports, Conti Extreeme Contact DWS06's Perelli Scorpion PZeros-AS or Bridgestone Potenzas if you want them to last. General Gmax AS - 05 is your best value tire and a great alternative to the Conti.

Welcome to having a fast heavy car. But at least you dont have 19's

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



22 Eargesplitten posted:

What are the best bang-for-buck all-seasons these days? I hopefully wonít have this car by the time big snow comes around in January or so, so Iím not interested in getting two sets?

P215/60/R16, itís a Camry hybrid. Also I canít wait for Tire Rack so I have to be able to get them locally.

How bad is it to get a pair up front on a FWD car if the back ones are still above minimum tread depth? I need to measure, but the rear tires are nowhere near as bad. Yes, Iíll admit to being a terrible car owner that always forgets to do rotations when I do the oil.

I know itís not optimal, but I need all the money I can get right now because I have to move ASAP, already spent a bunch of money on a storage unit and a parking spot for my second car, staying with a friend after multiple places fell through last minute.

general altimax rt 43s, cooper touring cs5s, Sumitomo htr po2 ,kumho ecsta, hankook optimo. Most shops should be able to source those.
Personally im a fan of the Generals.
The new school of thought is that its safest that the best tires go on the rear so you dont oversteer in slick conditions. You move the rears to the front and put the new set on the rear. When you burn up whats left of the fronts, get a new set moving the (newer) rears forward.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jul 4, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Michelin figured out that if your an idiot and hit your brakes at speed in wet conditions with better tires on the front and bald tires in the rear your gonna have a spin.
I wonder tho if tire shops push this to lessen liability.




CornHolio posted:

Yeah, I had accepted the fact that I will need new tires every 20k miles, until a friend couldn't believe it and told me to look at the treadlife warranty on the tires. Still trying to see what that's about.

I think the Continentals were what came on the car. I might switch back to those actually, they seem pretty good.

Just rotate your tires every 5 thousand miles and keep all your records. When submitting a tread life warranty claim thats what most places will ask for. At least then you will get them prorated.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Terrible Robot posted:

Ah, so if you are a lowest-common-denominator motherfucker and drive like a complete moron while also not taking care of your car, then the recommendation holds up.


For everyone else that is not dumber than a poo poo-covered brick, put your good tires on the front wheels.

Pretty much. Just watch their cringe worthy demonstration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa9hzcjdi5Q

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jul 4, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



You guys got used tires?
Ok whats your cheapest new tire?
Is it good in snow?

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



LRADIKAL posted:

Do we do recommendations here?
I've got a 2019 Leaf e+ SL with OEM tires on it. I'm sure they're very efficient, but I'd like something better in the winter. Is the best plan to buy some winter tires + steel wheels and swap them onto the front during the season, or should I get softer all season (all weather?) tires to run all year? Sounds like we're talking about a 5 percent efficiency loss doing something like that all year?
I live in western Washington, so it's not generally too snowy, but black ice and soaked asphalt is very common. Also the tires on this thing definitely show off the limitations of front wheel drive on launch.


2019 NISSAN LEAF SL Tire Size: P215/50R17
https://weatherspark.com/y/842/Aver...ates-Year-Round

Seems like you have some math to do. If your set on getting winters, getting separate rims is the way to go long term as it saves you the tire swap twice a year. Also most tire shops wont gently caress with winters unless your getting all 4. The best A/S that focuses on fuel efficiency I could recommend are Conti Pure Contacts with the eco plus tech. But like with everything you gain some and loose some. They dont do well in heavy snow. I did run them on my rwd beemer in wisconsin and snow storms were sketchy but tolerable just had to take it easy. But of course this was on flat ground. No tires are gonna be great on ice besides studded snows not sure if they are legal where you are.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jul 19, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



kimcicle posted:

Back when I owned my G37S, I took a chance on some Hankook Ventus V12 evos and I thought they were pretty good bang for buck on a sporty daily driver. Are they still pretty good for what you pay for, or should I be looking elsewhere for a budget summer tire?

Yea they are still affordable

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



I suggest searching tirerack and picking out what wheels u like and them calling them to confirm your gonna get the correct offset for your car. They will also let u know about availability and give you the exact cost of freight. Your also gonna want a lug nut set which they have and hub centering rings.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Only time i put LTs on a smaller suv or cross over is if the customer drives on a lot of gravel or dirt roads as they hold up better. The customer is already used to a poo poo ride from the road itself anyway.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



MrOnBicycle posted:

Thanks! I wish I could go down to 16" rims for winter months, but I found that apparently the Optima PHEV won't fit 16" according to the manual. Oh well.
I'm looking to get the additional set of rims which is customary in Sweden (as we generally have 2 sets of wheels and tires). Either that or get them to knock off the $ of the sticker price so I can buy them myself. Another KIA place said they wanted $1100 for their rims+tires, which I think is Nexen/Kumho winter tires. Pricing it out myself I land around $1100-1500 for a set up which kinda stings as it's a legal requirement from December 1st.

Seems like 5x114.3 is pretty common though, so finding rims shouldn't be too hard. But the dealer doesn't have to know I'm willing to buy second hand. :P

5x114.3 is a common Japanese size as well so you can see if you could find a set used off someones Toyota or Honda or score them at a junk yard if there is such a think where you live.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



sharkytm posted:

Sweet. They're yours to keep if you want them, legally.

I'm going to be in the market for tires for my truck (2015 GMC 2500HD, Duramax). I do mostly side streets and highway, but spend a good bit of time on boat ramps and snow. I've put 33k miles on the truck since 2015, so not a ton of miles. I'm not looking for a highway only tire, but I'm not interested in anything super loud like the All-Terrain T/A KO2 or Grabber AT/X.

Currently, it's running Michelin LTX AT2 in 265/70R18. They're bloody expensive ($300/tire from Tire rack plus shipping), and I'm fine with buying the same thing if that's the best option, but I'm kinda meh about them. The wet traction isn't great, dry is fine, they're not loud, and tread wear is pretty bad, but what else is out there that's similar/better? Dynapro AT2? Destination XT? GeoLandar AT G015? TerrainContact A/T? Say gently caress it and put Grabbers or BFGs on?

Cooper Discoverer AT3 LT or AT3 4s. One of the few AT's that offer a 60k treadlife warranty.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Sep 29, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



sharkytm posted:

The Michelins do as well, at least in replacement form. I need to check the warranty for OEM.
Looks like 6 years from date of vehicle purchase. Dont see nothing bout mileage.
https://www.michelinman.com/on/dema...07-REV-1118.pdf

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



sharkytm posted:

Cool. I'll have to see if they're going to bitch about the uneven wear, which is probably right at 1/16". It's on all 4 tires, which have been rotated. If I can get some money back, that would be great. 33k to kill $1200 in tires on a mostly-highway use truck seems excessive to me.

Dealers put very soft tires on cars so when you do the test drive its super soft and nice but generally speaking from personal experience selling these things, 30k to 40 k is pretty much the limit to oem tires.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



wallaka posted:

I worked at a central Alabama tire shop in the early aughts, and one of the the dumbest things I saw was another tech attempt to mount a tubeless car tire to a spoked motorcycle wheel that required a tube. He hadnít factored in the difference in the two bead areas, and the tire just wouldnít set. So he cranked more and more air in there until the bead area ruptured at probably 90-120 psi. It blew him up and backwards several feet and tore his uniform shirt offóhe had a line of bruises running down his chest and stomach from the shirt buttons for weeks to go along with a probable concussion from landing head first. I had a ringing in my ears for days.

We routinely turned down mounting tires on old split rims and did air up truck tires in the cage, FWIW.

I dont gently caress with split rims period as we have no cage, bead locks, or drag meats or anything over 22 inches as a general rule, im in no shortage of business so gently caress all that. And 9 out of 10 times its always people that want us to mount tires we didnt sell em, they want em done yesterday because of course they are trying to get to the race track or leaving town that same evening and are the type of people who hover over my tire techs looking for any reason to bitch. Im not set up for that poo poo, aint gonna have a tech get hurt, or open the possibility of the shop getting sued. Now buy a set of 26's and shoes to match? Or put 6 new on your dually camper with 19.5s? Ill make that poo poo happen all day for you.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Uthor posted:

So, I'm in a bit of a conundrum. I have a 2016 BMW xDrive 238i Wagon. It came with run flat tires, no spare, no jack, no quick fix flat repair kit.

I need winter tires. The stock tires are lack luster in snow.

I can get 17" wheels with run flats, but they cost about $150 more than non-run flats. And run flats limit my options.

My other option is to get non-run flats, maybe even in 16". Then, do I get by with a flat repair kit and spare jack? Buy five wheels and just carry a spare tire in the back, giving up trunk space?

I'll eventually need to replace my regular tires, so I'll have the run flat/non-run flat question come up again.

I have a towing service, but I regularly drive the 150 miles between Peoria and Chicago, including back roads, on weekend evenings. I'm wary of making this trip without a spare cause getting a flat would mean getting stuck in the middle of no where waiting until Monday for a shop to open.

I can always get a spare tire kit?
http://www.bimmerzone.com/BMW_Perfo...ST-F30-KIT.html

You live in IL? You dont need snow tires. (of course they are nice to have and if you can swing it by all means be my guest but its overkill out there) Get good all seasons and forget the run flats imo. If your worried about not having a spare, heres your rim. https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-...0/dp/B0799QJ33K
Slap a used tire on that call it a day.
Also regardless of what rout you take, you should
get yourself a tire plug kit like this one. https://www.grainger.com/product/33...0191010000541:s
And a small compressor that can run off your 12 volt socket
It is by no means a permanent solution but if you plug it right it will get you home.

Edit: wait i mighta miss read that do you not have the 17s on it now?

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Oct 10, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Uthor posted:

I went from a FWD car with winter tires to an AWD car with all seasons. I lost tons of traction, especially when stopping. Driving with winter tires is a night and day difference.

I used to drive on DWSs and they were okay in snow the first year, only good in light snow the second year, and utterly useless by the third year (with plenty of tread left for summer driving).

The car came with 17s. I'm kinda sure I can fit 16s over the brakes for cheaper wheels and tires.

Gotchya, I drove around Wisconsin winters in a RWD 323 ci in Conti Pure Contacts and never had a problem but fair enough its a brand new car you dont wanna gently caress it up.
Getting 16 inch rims vs 17 inch rims isnt gonna be much of a price difference in the aftermarket world anyway and it looks like going down from a 205 50 17 or if you have the 225 45 17 to a 205 55 16 will save you about 20 bucks a tire on average depending on the tire. Some prices are almost the same.
However. Looking up your wheel fitment, I am not seeing a 16 inch option for x drive. So you might wanna look into that and see if there is a reason for that.



Edit: With the upmost respect, I think your overcomplicating things, go get a set of them steelies i posted above.
Doing a quick search in junk yards on car-parts.com, in your area they had used rims for like 50 bucks a pop which is questionably low. And they were in Indiana. New ones are gonna be over two for anything decent in the aftermarket. Id go with the steelies for the price.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Oct 10, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



If any of yall think 800 bucks is a lot on tires. Someone dished on on a set of perreli winters for their gl63 amg. 3k mounted out the door. 285/40/22 front and 325/35/22 in the rear. Woof

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Preoptopus posted:

If any of yall think 800 bucks is a lot on tires. Someone dished out on on a set of perreli winters for their gl63 amg. 3k mounted out the door. 285/40/22 front and 325/35/22 in the rear. Woof. and the thing is they had no choice. The only tires in that size are either Summer sports or thoes exact winters.

Quote us not edit. Doh!

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Teketeketeketeke posted:

Stock tires on my car are 235/65r18, on 18x7.5 wheels. Would it be OK to run 245/70r17 as winter equipment on 17x8?
I found a good set of very lightly used wheels and tires locally. I know that the circumference is a little under 5% different, which means speedo will read 60 at 62.8 mph or whatever, it'll be a little closer to the fenders, etc. Let's assume it fits fine physically.
Is having these larger tires on wider wheels a terrible idea for winter tires, as I know that generally you want to minimize contact area to concentrate the weight of the car? Or would this be a tolerable difference?

What kind of vehicle is it? Is there not a stock 17 option for it?

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



So the Honda Crv ran 2256517s that year.... id try that.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Teketeketeketeke posted:

Yeah, just can't find a lot of those wheels around, used, locally, versus plenty of Toyota/Lexus (all the 35mm offset instead of 45). Also, CRVs then had a 5x115 pattern vs my 114.3, and that's not quite a good idea even if it fits, right?

Not sure where you heard that they had a 5x115. Hondas have had 114.3 since forever. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/honda/cr-v/2014/
Looking at offsets your right. You have a 45 while civicx and crvs rocked the 50.
I dont think it would affect anything its like less 3/8ths difference. IT would stick out a hair.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Oct 12, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

I have literally never heard of this happening before, but the Pilot Sport A/S 3+'s I just got were factory defective. They caused the car to pull with a perfect alignment. Michelin replaced them for free and now the car drives straight. Huh.

Its rare but it happens.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Wrar posted:

A tire shop won't touch a goo tire except to throw it out. And yes, goodbye expensive TPMS.

We fix it if we can, wash the poo poo out. Every shop Ive worked at has.

Ultimate Mango posted:

I now have a car with neither runflats nor a spare. It came with an inflator kit and can of what I assume is fix-a-flat goo.

Am I correct in understanding that the goo kills our very expensive TPMS sensors? As in, if I get a flat, I am better off getting a flatbed to take me to a tire place?

My theory is that dealers or the makers themselves figured out that a small population of people with a flat tire actually can change the spare or are bothered to do so.
Spare tires are heavy and are super expensive.
Short answer yes, warranty, insurance, and dealers want you to tow that poo poo the second a TPMS light comes on.
Goop melts the rubber with intent to plug the hole. Its super caustic and bad for everything except a large portion of punctures it doesnt reach and yes It will destroy your sensor eventually.
depends how long its been subject to it. IF you happen to park the car with the sensor at 6 o clock its done.
They have gone down in price over the years. 80 bucks said and done at my shop.
Learn to use a plug kit.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



jamal posted:

Do you have a source for this?

As far as I can tell most sealants are just water, latex, fibers to help plug holes, and some sort of an anti-freeze.

For example, here's the msds for a can of that slime brand emergency tire repair stuff

https://storage.googleapis.com/slim...e%20Sealant.pdf

key points:

hmmm guess i havent read up on it in a while. I just remember a poster back when i first started busting tires saying how lovely it was to get on you or be around and needed proper disposal. It all went in the drain. Egg on face. Still doesnt change the fact nobody likes loving with it.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



LRADIKAL posted:

Is there a way for me to decide when to put winter tires on? When it starts raining? When the temps get below 45? When snow is threatening?

You should do it hours before a major snow storm when everyone else does it and then get super upset with the guy at the desk cause he cant get you in right away despite the waiting room full of people patiently waiting their turn. But your special cause how the gently caress are you gonna make it home to Vail with these bald tires its snowing up there right now arnt you getting how your problem is my problem?!?!?!
Thats the best time to do it.


Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Oct 26, 2019

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



So trip on this. Could not find matching winter tires (as in they dont exist) for the s600. 275 45 18 rear 255 45 18 front.
So I have Michelin X ices on the front and Pirrelli winter sotto zero 3s in the back. Oh well they seam to work great together.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



Hughmoris posted:

I need some purchasing advice. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic sedan with original tires and wheels 195 /65 R15. I have an appt with Discount Tires for this Saturday.

I currently live in Denver but I will be moving (driving) to Florida within 30 days. I'll probably average between 7k - 10k miles a year. My budget is pretty open, just looking for safety and good value. I was looking Michelin Premier A/S but am open to advice.

Get hankook optimos. Decent ride, cheap and they have a good tread life warranty.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



simplefish posted:

First time I've seen cords under the rubber

I'm going to get new ones first thing tomorrow

Thing is they've worn down on the shoulders, kinda looked melted like it's been doing donuts? But still got legal tread depth in the middle.

It was already like that when I bought the car so I knew I'd be replacing them now I'm settled again, but I didn't expect cords.

Previous owner said they wore weird and then he got a rotation and an alignment and apparently that stopped them wearing like that.

Even at the time I didn't believe it for one second, of course - but if I get new tyres and an alignment, will that maybe fix it? Or am I expecting to be paying for new suspension bits?

Check the alignment when you get the tires done.

Assuming nothing is actually bent or anything you might have front end issues like loose ball joints or torn control arm bushings or your struts are old and the coil springs are sagging or all of the above.


If your having camber problems I feel bad for you son.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



simplefish posted:

Thanks, there was a recent PPI done that mentioned bushings but not boots or balls. I'll double check what bushings exactly.

Thanks, yeah he said he got tyres rotated and then an alignmemt so it'd even out.There's a receupt for it iirc. Like I said I I was always going to get it done for myself to check but cords showing when they weren't 3k miles ago has me worried there's a bigger problem

trashed control arm bushings are great at destroying spec camber angels. But the reason they are trashed is your struts are worn out. To get by, replace arms, and recheck alignment possibly having to put after market cam bolts on to get you back into spec. to fix the problem correctly, do quick struts and control arms.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



meatpimp posted:

Can I whine about tires in this thread? Just took the winter wheels off the Escalade and put the 20" chromes back on, because , and saw some dry rot between the treads. 2014 Michelins, looks like this is their last season.

275/55-20.

Michelins dry rot like crazy especially in dry climates. ( your in cali right? ) you got 6 years out of em thats about right.

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Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008



I mean you don't want to drive on anything past 7 years of age regardless of tread depth. Side wall integrity is very compromised at that point.

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