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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Suicide Watch posted:

Could it be faulty even if the a/c clutch engages and a pressure differential exists between the hi and lo gauges?

Sure. I mean, I'm thinking that your pressure differential sounds a little low, but not catastrophically so. It should be doing some cooling. That's why I'm asking about other stuff too.

And on that note: are you sure the blend door is even working inside? Because you really should be seeing SOME sort of vent temp difference.

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Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


Motronic posted:

Sure. I mean, I'm thinking that your pressure differential sounds a little low, but not catastrophically so. It should be doing some cooling. That's why I'm asking about other stuff too.

And on that note: are you sure the blend door is even working inside? Because you really should be seeing SOME sort of vent temp difference.

Just checked. I don't think it's the blend doors, since when I set the temp to max heat, the air coming out was definitely hotter.

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.


Motronic posted:

What's the pressure valve setup like in this? It's is low/high valve? Curious why it was still running at that high pressure.

And maybe you have WAY too much oil in there but haven't slugged the compressor. You said the system was retrofitted - what did that entail as far as line lengths/mix and match components and how was the system capacity derived after that?

It is a r134A system from a 95 mx3 retrofitted into a 323 chassis.

See:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...9#post494092169 -Hardlines
https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...9#post495302160 - Compressor and rubber lines made up to fit, no real change in length from the mx-3 system.

I am using:
-1995 MX-3 evaporator core (stock, did not replace)
-1994-1996 MX-3 expansion valve (4 seasons 39053)
-1995 MX-3 stock lines from compressor suction to receiver drier
-1992-1995 MX-3 receiver drier (4 seasons 33581)
-1992-1996 MX-3 condensor (APDI Pro 7014372)
-1992-1995 MX-3 compressor (4 seasons 57495)

System control is 95 MX-3 V6 logic pushbutton (not the i4 sliders)

Mazda 1995 MX-3 FSM: http://foxed.ca/323/fsm/1995%20US%20WSM.pdf
AC section is G, starts at pg 793 (AC section is G-50, pg 842)

On the stock hard lines, there is a pressure switch, it has a high and low cutout. High pressure cut is 430psi, which is what I saw happening.


Now, as for oil capacities, I had trouble interpreting the manual. This was listed:



So, since I was starting with a new, clean system I took that to mean:

1oz condenser
+ 2 oz evaporator core
+ 0.2 oz piping
+ 0.3 oz receiver drier
+ 5.92oz compressor
=9.42 oz

The 4 seasons compressor paperwork claimed different (I'll dig out the paperwork later, I can't remember if their online guide was different):
https://www.4s.com/media/5421/four-...acity-guide.pdf
"95-94 All Eng. - 26.50 Oz. R-134a; 6.25 Oz. PAG-100"

So, 6.25 oz.

I don't think I added the entire 9.42oz, I seem to remember splitting the difference around 8 oz. Mazda called for ATMOS GU10, which google claimed was PAG46. 4 seasons wanted PAG100.

One thing to note is that the system worked well for two summers. Last summer the expansion valve/expansion core area started making a hissing fluid sound at idle.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Sgt Fox posted:

It is a r134A system from a 95 mx3 retrofitted into a 323 chassis.
................
One thing to note is that the system worked well for two summers. Last summer the expansion valve/expansion core area started making a hissing fluid sound at idle.

Wow, okay, nice documentation.

So most importantly, this was a working system. For a good long time. So I think we can safely say that the assumptions you made about oil quantity were good enough. Type, maybe not. But then again, you said you already pulled the expansion valve and it was clean. If you were having system damage I'd expect parts of the compressor to be in there.

So what's left? Maybe your receiver dryer? Without any other information or seeing it first hand I'd probably go with an expansion valve (since it was noisy) and a receiver dryer since you ought to be replacing that anyway after the system was opened.

When you took this all apart to blow air through it, I assume you didn't have anything nasty looking coming out? I'm having a real hard time coming up with how it could be the compressor since it is in fact creating a pressure differential.

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.


Motronic posted:

Wow, okay, nice documentation.

So most importantly, this was a working system. For a good long time. So I think we can safely say that the assumptions you made about oil quantity were good enough. Type, maybe not. But then again, you said you already pulled the expansion valve and it was clean. If you were having system damage I'd expect parts of the compressor to be in there.

So what's left? Maybe your receiver dryer? Without any other information or seeing it first hand I'd probably go with an expansion valve (since it was noisy) and a receiver dryer since you ought to be replacing that anyway after the system was opened.

When you took this all apart to blow air through it, I assume you didn't have anything nasty looking coming out? I'm having a real hard time coming up with how it could be the compressor since it is in fact creating a pressure differential.

I ordered the expansion valve on the weekend, didn't get a new receiver drier though... shoot. I've been careful of leaving the system open, after I emptied and blew the compressed air through (air compressor has a drier on it), I made sure to pull a good vacuum on the system for 30 min, so perhaps the drier isn't necessary? (If you think it is still, I'll place another order, might be best, I assume it traps some schmoo in the system as well? Plus I could reinstall with less oil?)

One thing to note, is that when the system was working well before, pressures on the high side were still higher than what Mazda stated in their manual. I would see 250-350 IIRC.

When I was blowing through the system, only clean oil/dye came out, no chunkies, no gel, nothing. Colour in the dye was as bright as new.

Thanks for your help so far!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

I mean......is it necessary necessary once the system has been open? No. I mean yes. Or...no.

I've done plenty of 45-60 minute vacs on beater and called it good enough, and it's of course lasted for a long time.

But we've got a couple things going on here: potentially a shmoo pit, don't know for sure and we do know for sure that this is NOT a beater and it's full of basically new components. So I'd pony up for the dryer.

High side being higher than normal could be a bunch of things, including the expansion valve which may never have been quite right to begin with. You very well could have gotten something bad out of the box.

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.


Yeah, fair, I shall order then.

I am pretty sure I got the correct oil. I don't really trust anything 4 seasons says. In this guide: https://www.extant.gr/datafiles//_M...essed_Part1.pdf
PAG 46 Mazda Compressors Atmos GU10
PAG 100 Mazda Compressors Atmos GU20

I also see listings for the Mazda oil part numbers:
A055-61-K39 ATMOS GU10 (PAG 46) refrigerant oil (60mL)
C003-61-K39 ATMOS GU10 (PAG 46) refrigerant oil (40mL)

So that seems to indicate PAG46=GU10

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

You're probably fine on oil weight. I've anecdotally heard more problems with too heavy than too light. And all of the problems end up with a trashed compressor. I'm not buying that being an issue after you've run this for 2 seasons and it's still producing a pressure differential.

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!





Seeing as I'm doing a complete refresh of all the main AC parts of my 95 miata, it only figures that I snap a bolt off in the compressor. I tried drilling it out, but it's so far off center that if I take the hole any bigger, I'll just wash the threads out. My core is worthless because of that off-center hole unless I can sneak that thing onto the hole-popper at work (EDM) but I have no idea how deep to drill it. Also I'm sure I've contaminated it by now. So, what's the story on the remanufactured compressors on Rockauto? Should I just bite the bullet and get a new one? It's a nippondenso Tv12

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How closely do you think most cores get looked at?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

BloodBag posted:

So, what's the story on the remanufactured compressors on Rockauto?

I've used a bunch of them and the quality has been fine.

Also, what IoC said about cores. They're gonna take it.

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!





Motronic posted:

I've used a bunch of them and the quality has been fine.

Also, what IoC said about cores. They're gonna take it.

Makes me feel bad for the next guy, having been the next guy victimized by a rattlecan rebuild courtesy of A1 cardon't. But I guess I can see.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I would sincerely hope whoever rebuilds it actually looks at it, but that's not the same person who is going to see "yep, it's a core" and give you money while shipping it back to Cardone.

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