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Applebees Appetizer posted:Ok, perfect timing....Took my car into a local a/c specialist that does great work. My car (2012 xB) was taking an abnormally long time for the a/c to blow cold after it sat overnight. They checked it out and guess what....It needed FREON lol, but it hasn't completely solved the problem. It made a small difference in the time it takes to cool off, but it still takes at least five minutes before it blows cold air. So I'm assuming they saw it was low and figured that was the problem and did no other testing? What else could it possibly be? I really don't want to drop it off again to them but i guess i'm gonna have to to get to the bottom of it. Systems very, very rarely just "run low", and overcharging can be as bad as undercharging. Proper fix would involve actually getting some gauges on it, doing some leak investigation, and probably performing a vacuum / recharge to verify that it's actually at the right charge level before going much further.
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Apr 26, 2019 00:05
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With the new compressor you'll probably want to drain it of any new oil in it and measure that back into it. The new Denso that I put on my who few years ago for the same reason had way more oil in it than necessary for a not-dry system.
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Apr 26, 2019 14:33
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Motronic posted:Yes, that's a basic AC service. And there's nothing you can do unless you can check pressures. So if you can't do that then bring it somewhere that can. Could do some basic electrical testing to see if the computer is even calling for the clutch to engage, but yeah, anything other than that, you need to know system pressures.
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Jun 19, 2019 18:59
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I have one of those sets. It works well enough, though the high-side quick connector is a bit fiddly. All the more reason to a) wear heavy gloves and b) don't hook it up or disconnect while the system is running. The fact that it comes with a can tap means you should be okay, the set I bought needed a cheap adapter to work with the can tap I already had.
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Jul 1, 2019 19:32
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Motronic posted:I don't know - are you? I took your word for it that your car had one. If it does it's super cheap and right in the r/d so replace it. If it has a txv it's buried in the dash, expensive and not likely your problem so don't. Hondas have a thing for killing TXVs. My 2013 CR-V ate one last year. The part is cheapish but gently caress THAT LABOR that job still gives me nightmares. And I'm slightly worried that the one I put in last year is failing again. My original one failed for good when I pulled a vacuum on it, stuck completely shut.
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Jul 4, 2019 15:42
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I would literally never proactively touch an A/C system if it isn't acting up. As long as it's all still sealed, the oil in it doesn't get abused hard enough to degrade.
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Jul 5, 2019 22:21
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Was the compressor actually running? Because that looks like a system that isn't doing anything at all at the moment. Also, one to file away for future reference - the newer the car is, the more likely the HVAC will try to do things to save itself from damage that you might not expect. My CR-V's blower motor was going out, occasionally requiring percussive maintenance to start. (It was a cheap replacement for the original, which had developed bearing noise). While this was going on, before I got around to replacing the motor, on at least two instances it would not start the compressor at all. I thought I might have been dealing with both an electrical issue with the blower (either wiring or the motor itself), and an issue with the compressor engaging (system pressures, coil, relay, etc). After replacing the blower it hasn't recurred. I'm thinking the HVAC in that car won't engage the compressor if it doesn't think the fan can work.
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Jul 9, 2019 02:57
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Refrigerant doesn't care who made the system. Last I checked BMW wasn't bending any laws of physics, so that temperature/pressure chart STR posted should still be very much in the ballpark. Also, scales exist. I admit it's fiddly as gently caress to balance a can on a hose on a scale but it's definitely possible to get a reasonably close weight with home-gamer hardware.
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Jul 11, 2019 20:05
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Are the passenger vents cold at all? You need to get a high side gauge on there as well. If the air never gets cold, I don't think this is anything your HVAC control could be doing. Even if it's not ever disengaging the compressor and freezing up the system, you should get some cold air for a bit until the evaporator core ices over.
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Jul 22, 2019 22:16
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BonoMan posted:Just updated the above posting. I think you're probably onto something there. Seems weird that the HVAC would fail compressor-on, but not impossible. PainterofCrap posted:Hello, new expansion valve & a lovely day of ripping apart the dash! Tell you what: the passenger seat is coming out for this one. I'm so, so sorry. In hindsight I wish I had pulled the passenger seat out on my CR-V to do it because gently caress THAT JOB.
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Jul 23, 2019 05:21
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Unless you're dumping a whole can in, you don't know how much oil you're putting in. Better to measure it and put it in a line before you pull a vacuum.
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Jul 24, 2019 19:46
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The last dryer I got came sealed up, I'd make sure to leave it sealed as long as possible until right before you hook it up and pull a vacuum on the system.
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Aug 9, 2019 15:07
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I would imagine that the compressor is the same as US-market LS400s and is probably common as hell. At any rate you'd have to try pretty hard to shove enough liquid in there to actually hurt the compressor.
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Dec 11, 2019 19:30
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It's not like R12 is illegal to use or own or anything, it's just expensive and uncommon. If someone still has gear with the right fittings I don't see any reason why they'd turn down the work.
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Dec 31, 2019 02:55
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Conceptually, all A/C systems fall into the categories in the OP. Beyond that, it seems that a lot of the individual parts are fairly model specific because the manufacturer will play with hose lengths / tube positions to best fit whatever it's going into. What's really fun is when the manufacturer does something like a mid-generation split for the receiver/dryer but the aftermarket decides to just sell the early version because it's "close enough". loving Jeep. With that said, custom hose assemblies are absolutely a thing that can be made by a competent shop. Worst case if you find a part that fits in most ways but doesn't have the same connectors, you get a hose fabbed up.
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Dec 31, 2019 17:06
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MEK is pretty much the one time I've seen my dad make a real attempt at PPE. I'll just stick with having no reason to even purchase the poo poo.
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Jan 7, 2020 20:22
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That seems likely. The other option would be if the clutch air gap was too tight, but that seems unlikely.
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Mar 4, 2020 14:17
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Unless the system has explosively vented itself or you've replaced major components, I doubt it's low enough on oil to worry about making that up.
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Mar 24, 2020 04:28
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STR posted:So I guess I get to slam another compressor into it. The newest model year they used it in on my car is 2004; however, it looks like the compressor (DKV14G) was used in lots of other cars. Are there any differences in them aside from the pulley? Depends on how specific that model number is. Could be variations in where/how it mounts, where the pulley is relative to those mounts, where the suction/discharge ports are, and even how those ports connect. The Denso compressor on my WJ had an interchangeable top plate where the suction/discharge ports were, so you could theoretically grab another compressor with the same mounts / pulley and swap that out.
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Apr 30, 2020 19:20
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Motronic posted:Yup. And compressors usually come with oil in them - enough to replace the amount of oil that would normally be left in the compressor in a properly oiled system. This last part varies. The Denso compressor I put in my WJ came with way, way more oil in it than needed.
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May 23, 2020 21:17
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How closely do you think most cores get looked at?
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Jun 1, 2020 22:52
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 00:10 |
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I would sincerely hope whoever rebuilds it actually looks at it, but that's not the same person who is going to see "yep, it's a core" and give you money while shipping it back to Cardone.
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Jun 2, 2020 16:39
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