Motronic posted:

I thought holly fern was pretty much always the answer to that question for this area. I mean, it's "invasive" in that it's not native, but in that zone it doesn't get out of control. It's legit invasive in like, texas, but not here.

Motronic posted:

Oh man, I was not aware of that. Then Do. Not. Plant.

I've got a local wildflower preserve near me. I'm in 6b, so real similar and they have a bunch of great options. Maybe a combination of some of these?

https://bhwp.org/wp-content/uploads/Shade-Loving-Native-Perennials.pdf

Here's the other lists and a link back to the actual site: https://bhwp.org/grow/garden-with-natives/right-plant-right-place/

They have master gardeners there that seem to be all about helping people figure this out. And you local county ag extension should be ready to do the same.

The Bird posted:

I'm on the left coast, so can't really give you a recommendation. I would say to call your local nursery of you want container plants/plugs. They will be able to provide a better recommendation than anyone on SA.

Otherwise search for a lawn seed company in your area. They should have an erosion control mix. They may even have mixes that can provide habitat!
Another thing you could do is check with your local stormwater utility. They probably have a stormwater plant list/guidelines for upland/midland/wetland applications with local non-invasive species that you can select from.

Do you have to irrigate in NJ? I am eternally jealous of East Coasters that don't (if they even exist).

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

how deer resistant are we talking? you could do something like a mondo grass, too.

The Bird posted:

I don't know if these are available in your area, but they meet your criteria of shade/deer resistant/moisture:

Sarcococca humilis - Creeping Sweetbox @ 3' OC
Vinca minor - Bowles Periwinkle @ 18" OC
Ajuga repens - Bugleherb @ 12" OC
Hakonechloa macra - Japanese Forest Grass @ 24" OC

and then any fern (you could go larger with these). You could do a mix (just try and make pockets of (3-5 of ea plant). Seed some pockets of erosion control mix and get a foundation of other plants/groundcovers going.
I also don't know if any of these are invasive in your area, but they are all low-maintenance.

The Bird posted:

So, I know that you don't care about the aesthetics and I also do not know how this relates to your house and what you see every day. Is this close to your house? Do you see that fence everyday? Do you have an issue with your neighbor's 2nd story windows overlooking the back/any other privacy concerns along that property line? If so, I would plant a large hedge of Portugal Laurel (Prunus lusitanica) @ 6' OC about 4' off that fence. Especially if you do not plan on repairing it/splitting the repair with your neighbors. That would give you some privacy AND if the hedge gets far enough along, it will actually provide some support to the fence and prolong the time before you completely lose all privacy (it looks like some of the rails have separated from the posts, so you don't have long).

I would really check with whatever stormwater district/governing body is in charge of that ditch before you do anything. Some are very stringent on allowed plant material, mulching, etc. If you do something against their guidelines, you could be liable to change it OR pay for damages to their system if they can connect it to you (not very likely - "Who's bark chip mulch is this in our catch basin? We only allow shredded wood fiber!").

tater_salad posted:

Currently going back and forth on doing pavers vs stamped concrete.


Cost is going to be about the same but it will be diy on the pavers and pay a guy on the concrete. I removed a deck that had lots of rotting due to ground contact so I would need to dig about another 6ish inches down.


Concerns are how long concrete will last without needing replacement vs pavers being a bit more 'flexible'. I live in the northeast in an area that gets all the weather. 80-90 degree summer and 30-below zero winters with all the moisture and rain one could want in the spring and fall or summer or maybe it's a drought who the gently caress knows.

Pros for concrete: I don't have to lay a finger.
About the same cost as pavers..
Can probably remove other deck(slightly less lovely but still decked with 2x4s because PO) and get that space utilized / make yard bigger with less of a hassle

Concern / con: cracking and looking like poo poo in the next 10 years. Shiny surface. Hotter?

Pros for pavers: possibly look better, more 'flexible' but stuck with more of a square feeling. Still going to have to redo the base and poo poo every 10 years kuz of climate in 10 years I'm fuckin laying someone to do it I ain't doing it when I'm 50)

Cons for pavers: doing it myself or spending an rear end load of money in Labor.
Will end up keeping the second deck and properly re decking next year.

The Wonder Weapon posted:

What is the best way to accomplish this effect? Is it:

1. Dig every hole individually, applying gravel/sand independently for each stone
Or
2. Dig up the whole plot at once, cover the whole area in gravel/sand, place the pavers, and then fill in the cracks with topsoil and plant grass?

surf rock posted:

For the past few years, I've been lucky enough to live next door to friends. We've had an arrangement where I weedwhacked both properties and they mowed both properties. Unfortunately, they're moving in the next month, so I need to get my own mower. Here's the thing:

- I hate mowing
- I don't hate mowing enough to blow a hundred bucks a month or more, based on local prices, on having someone else do it
- Especially because my lot is literally less than 6,000 square feet (the grass portion would probably be ~4,500) and flat

I've thought about getting a reel mower because it's a small enough yard that that's probably feasible, but I was reading about them and it sounds like if you're not using them twice a week then they'll be useless because they can't handle long grass. Does anyone use one and would recommend it? I like the concept, but it seems like you really have to have the absolute perfect situation (and a truly obsessive love of your yard) for it to be worthwhile.

So, I'm mainly thinking of getting an electric mower instead. It's a little expensive, but I'd love the lack of maintenance issues and the cordlessness of their top pick. Anyone here have any negative experiences with electric mowers?

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I'm really considering getting my own tree and planting it, do they make a tree that will grow and look directly in to her windows and give her a dirty look?

Insurrectum posted:

Can someone take a guess for what kind of grass I have? This is around the DC area.

https://imgur.com/a/s6qtEmi

MetaJew posted:

You're right about the price. I recall reading that their habiturf seed was quite expensive relative to other grass seed and it seems like if you screw up the seeding process you might just be throwing money down the drain. I have read about zoysia being okay in this climate, and I know you can get it as sod, but for how large my back yard is I think that cost to plant it and keep it watered would be prohibitive. I do like that it apparently doesn't require much mowing once established, though.

My whole yard is a big mix of grasses. The front yard, I think, is or was buffalo grass, horse herb, and St. Augustine near the property line with my neighbor.

My backyard has a patch of Bermuda grass between the front yard and the shed that the PO must have seeded. The big unshaded patch is mostly horse herb, and the shaded area under the live oaks is something that looks like St. Augustine, but I'm not very knowledgeable about identifying grass types.

All of the unshaded grass has died back or turned to dust, partly since I don't want to water it, and also probably from our new puppy running around and digging in the back yard.

Since I don't have an HOA I don't have to worry too much about maintaining a particular type of lawn or condition, but aesthetically I would like it to be a little nicer.

I think for the front yard I would like to do some sort of xeriscape just for ease of maintenance and drought tolerance. The front is small enough that it would be feasible to sod it myself but I'm not entirely sure what you do along the property line where my neighbor's grass would likely compete with whatever I put down.

MrChrome posted:

I feel your pain. I have a tree of heaven in my yard. My neighbors also have one. This house is the first one I've owned that has a yard and I was confused about why there were little trees popping up everywhere.

One of them reached human height before I found it. Another keeps trying to grow inside my garage. The roots are under the foundation or something so I can't get to them.

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

The previous owner of my house let a grove of ailanthus get out of hand behind my workshop, to the point it was caving in the walls. I've taken out the ones that were literally growing into the roof but now I have to contend with this:

Power company says they won't touch it until it actually knocks down some lines, every arborist I've spoken to has noped out of the situation (can't blame em), but so long as it's up there it and the root system pushing into the shop are still growing. Any ideas how to take it down without setting my shop on fire/knocking out power for the entire neighborhood?

NomNomNom posted:

Accidentally watered my lawn for several hours.

Motronic posted:

0%

BonoMan posted:

This is the back of my house - facing a roadway. We got back there yesterday to clear some of the larger fallen debris from all the trees over the past year or so.

We want to eventually clear this area of all the (I think) Boston Ivy growing everywhere. If you look at the left side of the image, you'll see a ribbon marked tree. That's our survey marker and it extends to the right to the other edge of the property. So we'll need to take care of all of the area within that zone back to the house and the HOA will, hopefully, take care of the rest.

We got most of the heavy debris out and clawed away any vines encroaching on the house but goddamn... what's the best method for de-ivying a large section of this area? Eventually we'll cut down the trees contained within our area as well and re-landscape the whole thing to be more of a back "yard" (or at least outdoor experience for the kids since we get zero sunlight lol).

BonoMan posted:

Man this would be awesome. I'm a little worried the location is terrible (that road you see is fairly well traveled because it leads to a parkway just a block or so over) for that though.

devicenull posted:

I'm going to be planting a bunch of live stakes of Southern Arrowwood tomorrow - my big question is do I use rooting hormone or not. I think I have a container of it in the shed, so there's no extra cost.

Is there a downside to using it?

DrBouvenstein posted:

Maybe if I rented one of those "ground pounder" things? Might be more effective than just the roller?

Lincoln posted:

I have moderately-compacted soil on 2005 construction. I areated last year and will probably again this year, but is there a responsible way to introduce earthworms into my soil? I know I can just buy earthworms (eggs) and plant them, but I also understand some of them are considered invasive & shouldn’t be used. Texas panhandle, zone 7.

lite_sleepr posted:

I believe you're thinking of St. Augustine. Zoysia definitely seeds.

quote:

e: actually surge and crossbow sound too dangerous. 'Harmful to humans and domestic animals. Causes irreversible eye damage.'

The Wonder Weapon posted:

We get some nasty wind around here, and it managed to blow down a metal screen fence enough that the deer could eat my sapling trees. This is a Thuja Green Giant (Arborvitae) that they got to. I've got ~20 of them that look like this. Are these effectively dead, or will they grow back?

Sapling as it arrived, basically:


Mine:

Discussion Quorum posted:

If I was going to top dress my lawn (Zoysia) with compost after aerating, how finely should I sift it? Is 1/4" good enough?

A place near me will apparently deliver compost graded to 5/16" or less and I can't imagine the last 1/16" makes much difference.

bawfuls posted:

Maybe my question wasn’t clear. I need to route the overflow from the barrel during rain events. The typical solution here is to have a pipe near the top of the barrel which goes into the street/sewer or just on the ground near by. But space near this barrel is confined so I don’t want to dump overflow right next to it, and it’s not feasible to dump into the street.

This barrel will collect runoff from about 40m2 of roof area. That is over 200 gallons per inch of rainfall, so the excess must be passively routed somewhere away from the house foundation.

Edit: something like this, view of the barrel from the side



White is the barrel, blue is external piping which routes to soaker hose at bottom right. Red is a manual valve.

Install with downspout feed sealed to top of the barrel, close valve. It rains and fills up the barrel. Once the water level is above the top blue pipe, excess spills out into the soaker system. When it stops raining, barrel is full and you can later open the valve to empty it via soaker system.

But this assumes sending excess rainwater to the plants while it’s already raining won’t over saturate the soil. Otherwise I need to put the water somewhere else.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

This is definitely 'Call your extension service and/or Dept of game and fish' territory imo.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Are you downstream from chrome plating factory or something This definitely seems like the kind of thing state/federal/whoever environmental regulators would want to know about.

calandryll posted:

Where are you at? It's hard to tell from the picture but most freshwater algal blooms that are going to cause issues are from cyanobacteria. Those are going to be a different green color in the water. There are certainly other species that will bloom but that's an interesting color.

As for fish kills, the majority of them are from low dissolved oxygen (DO) in the water. What typically happens, is an algal bloom or something similar will die off and part of the die off will be bacteria breaking down the cells, which drives the DO down. With the current climatic changes that are occurring and the El Nino year that we are in, I would ascribe the fish kill to a mixture of things.

Depending on where you are, the environmental department, or any university could help you identify the algae. If you have access to a microscope and get a picture, I could potentially ID it.

RCarr posted:

This might not be the correct thread to ask, but the house I’m renting is next to a business, with a chain link fence separating us. I was wondering if there are any temporary options for covering up the fence, that wouldn’t be super expensive?

I’d rather not be able to see through the fence when in my backyard and vice versa.

road potato posted:

I'm running into an 811 issue too! I got a marker for where our gas line runs, which appears to be directly to the corner of the house, almost perfectly on a line where I was planning on pounding in some T-Posts and digging in some 2-3/8 chain link posts to put in a fence/gate. Unfortunately, the yellow line they flagged is not particularly straight. Do I assume a straight line and move the fence out 6 inches? Do I assume it weaves like it does and put one post on the outside one on the inside? And of course, it's a gas line and by the time I got home from work yesterday everyone from the city had gone home early. There wasn't any guidance on how much space to give each side, just 'only use hand tools within two feet'

T-Posts are going down 6 inches with a pounder, gate post is going down a foot using a post-hole digger.


Related question: it's been lightly drizzling all week and might lightly drizzle some more this afternoon & tomorrow. Do I need a dry hole to pour quick-crete into?

Verman posted: