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how many rocks are you talking about? while sod is obviously temperamental i think you would need to to have some REALLY bad underlying conditions to be causing that. can you pull up the sod or has it rooted in? if it's rooted in well but still stressed, you might be having a water retention issue. also hello everyone i manage a 130 acre nursery in new jersey so if anyone has any tree questions i am happy to help
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Jul 15, 2020 20:50
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Hubis posted:What's a good time of year to remove an air-layering I started mid-spring on a red maple? we don't do much clonal propagation, but where are you and where is it going (outdoors or a greenhouse)? an air layer should be fine 'indefinitely' (not literally, but long enough that you can wait to plant it whenever it's seasonally appropriate)
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Jul 15, 2020 22:35
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if you can (and you're sure the roots have developed), i wouldn't overwinter them in the air layering if you don't have to (if you get winter temps below freezing). edit: I'll touch more on this in a bit
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Jul 15, 2020 23:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What do you grow? Trees or shrubs or what? If trees, do you start from seed or buy liners/seedlings? Are they in pots or in ground? The nursery business is pretty big around here and I've always been curious how it works. How did you get your job-horticulture/agriculture school or hands on experience or what? igrow trees (ornamentals, evergreens, and canopy/shade) and what some stuff people might call 'shrubs' but are considered in the landscape trade to actually be small ornamental trees - serviceberry and redbud and things like that. i think next year I'll line out some arrowood and boxwood and stuff just because it's easy to sell, but at the moment i we don't sell anything that has a mature height less than 12-14 feet. i do very few seedlings - climatologically my area isn't good for it and if i wanted to grow a seedling out to just be a starting liner size it would probably cost me an extra year compared to a liner propagation nursery (ie it would take me about two years to get a liner it would take them about a year to grow). i'll seedling start stuff if i can't find it as a liner and i think they're personally interesting (i'm doing some red star whitecedar), but generally i try to line out stuff that's an inch to an inch.25 in caliper in the hopes of cutting out a year of maintenance time. because it's only cost effective to ball&burlap trees in late winter/early spring (and some varietals in the fall), a tree that isn't dug needs another entire year of maintenance - pruning, chemical control, weed control, irrigation, etc - and that cost generally can't be passed on to the customer in a saleable way unless you're lucky and you go from like 2 in caliper to a 3 in a year or something. i'll container grow seedlings until they're vigorous enough to handle being field grown, for the few seedlings i do grow, but almost anything a customer would buy from me did most of it's developing out in the fields. i know a few guys near me 'field grow' their container plants (they line out their containers in their fields and grown them out there), but i've never seen the point and imo it's easier to get a ball&burlap tree to transplant compared to something container grown, especially when you're a landscape contractor putting 100+ trees in the ground a day and speed matters. i'm pretty 'lucky' (if you consider working on a nursery to be 'lucky', i work around 70 hours a week year-round and don't make a whole lot of money) - it was my dad's nursery, so i've been working around trees for like two decades (I'm 30). i don't have any formal education about any of this stuff beyond like seminars and presentations, i failed out of community college when i went. trees are pretty good communicators, though, and they're resilient, so they are good teachers as long as you're listening and willing to be both reactive when you notice a problem and proactive when it seems like it may pop up again.
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Jul 16, 2020 17:10
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air-pots are 'good', with the caveat that a lot of that comes from the fact a 'normal' container is just an extremely unnatural way to store a plant for an extended duration of time. the science on air-pruning as a practice is obviously very good and compelling (i'm biased obviously and think the 'best' thing to do is plant a tree and let it root how it wants). i think Air-pot as a brand is probably overselling it a bit, and i oversee and quote plant lists for millions of dollars worth of landscape installs and i have never once seen a landscape architect actually demand air-pot containers (nor would they realistically care, because any reputable landscape contractor is probably on the hook to replace a tree that doesn't transplant well for a year or two). i think you can probably do what you do with an air-pot if you just check to ensure you're not root circling or getting rootbound in your containers, and by regularly checking and doing some light pruning to root systems when its safe to do so. also, if you're not planning on transplanting your container plants to a permanent install, i'm not sure how much it really 'matters'.
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Jul 16, 2020 18:35
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it really depends on how big they are. we're relatively small (we dig around 3000 trees every spring) and we're still closed to the public mostly because the public doesn't know what they want and will never buy enough to make educating them cost-effective. that said, if a private homeowner who seemed knowledgeable called me and told me they wanted 25 eight foot white pines delivered to their house, i would almost never say no - we're closed to the public because in the few times I've had to deal with private homeowners, they do 'weird' poo poo like bring their whole family or balk at prices or want things way out of scope for what we usually do (ie spending half an afternoon walking around our above-ground inventory explaining stuff to a guy who then tells me he wants like a singular five foot Holly). i just don't want to waste my time with tire kickers. none of this helps you though - what i would do is simply call, explain what you did here, tell them you know what you want (or close enough), and ask if they'll allow you to buy. if not (like, if they're a big west coast nursery who send out truckloads all day), your next best bet may be to find a retail nursery they do work with and simply ask them if they'll source some.stuff for you. you'll probably pay ten percent extra, or whatever, but this way everyone gets what they want. this happens to us a decent amount - we're not open to the public but the garden center down the road is, so they'll call us up and ask for like three Japanese maples and a falsecypress or whatever and it's almost doubtlessly going to a private homeowner who just wanted something they didn't have. if that doesn't work - the retail nursery won't ask or the wholesale nursery won't oblige - your last bet is to probably find a local small landscape contractor, explain what's going on, and tell them you'll pay like ten percent if they'll just source the plants for you. if they're small enough and you're not just looking for like, three trees, they'll probably say yeah.
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Jul 17, 2020 01:13
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how much tilling are you planning on doing? about how many hours a week are you planning on using this stuff? if you're planning on moving any earth at all, i would avoid subcompacts - i've never sat on one that didn't feel underpowered no matter what i was doing, and at the smaller end they're glorified ride-on mowers.
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Aug 20, 2020 16:26
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looks like there might be two buttons on the side of the housing? or a toggle up above it? for our big spades we have twelve valves we need to control, so i'm used to looking all over for that stuff
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Aug 20, 2020 18:20
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i'm not very handy when it comes to cars but i had no idea that wasn't like, a thing that they made up for fast and the furious.
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Aug 21, 2020 01:12
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if you have zoysia how often are you mowing? it shouldn't be often, surely?
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Aug 24, 2020 03:16
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why on earth do you have to trench 3000' of water main? do you live very far back off a road? the absolute 'easiest' way to do this is to get both - the trencher is going to be worlds easier than digging your trench with a mini-ex, and the mini-ex is going to make backfilling a ton easier (as long as you have a blade). depending on the model of trencher, they can come with a blade, but mine is too old to have one and i sort of wonder how fast it would backfill or how well someone who doesn't often run a trencher would backfill even if it had a blade. if you absolutely must pick one, the trencher is likely going to be much, much faster with a probably more aggravating backfill process. i have the option so maybe i'm just spoiled for choice but if i have to run anything longer than like 50 or 60 feet i'll grab the trencher.
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Aug 29, 2020 13:29
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frost line was 20 inches, he said, which is pretty high.wesleywillis posted:All y'all motherfuckers that are digging with them fancy power things, don't forget to call before you dig. this is good advice (always call before you digTM) but the only reason i can imagine someone non-commercially having to dig 3000 feet of trench is if someone is very, very far from the closest neighbor A 50S RAYGUN fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 14:53
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if you're going to be maintaining 95 acres it may make sense into looking at a mid-small size excavator regardless of whether or not you do the trench with it; i don't know how else you would maintain your ponds or drainage (or your culverts). how practical this is will probably depend on whether or not the cows and goats are a moneymaking venture or a hobby (or a bit of both)
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Aug 30, 2020 01:51
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again, if you're not planning on making any money on your property (ie farming or ranching), then yeah, it's significantly harder to justify buying (relatively) expensive equipment. i actually don't have a farm truck at all, i literally only ride a gator. given how capable the utility vehicles are nowadays i'm shocked whenever i see a neighboring farm actually driving their trucks out in their fields. if it's rutty by you i'd keep the tires a little lower than you'd expect, if you work them hard off-road with stiff tires you'll beat the hell out them (you'll also rattle your teeth out of your head)
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Aug 30, 2020 02:21
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amish don't avoid technology as a rule, just when it seems like it would be super disruptive to whatever they've decided their 'culture' is. the sawmill i use has most of their logging done by amish and they use chainsaws, forwarders, etc etc. he still has to drive down there and ask them in person because they don't use phones.
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Sep 4, 2020 22:17
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Motronic posted:I'm getting ready to start the fall nitro push soon, but I also need potassium. You know if there are any liquid solutions? I've got 35,000 sq. ft of grass (don't judge me!) so I've taken to liquid application of everything with the tiniest little baby spray trailer I've ever seen. Just the right size to do the whole mess in 2 or 3 fills. were you looking to do it in one application? i'm imagining yes? we don't do any x-0-x applications but i can call my guy and see if he has any recs
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Sep 5, 2020 16:55
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devicenull posted:So I have some stream banks next to a drainage culvert I'm trying to prevent erosion on. The main goal here is really erosion control... it's far enough in the back yard I don't care about looks. how deer resistant are we talking? you could do something like a mondo grass, too.
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Oct 23, 2020 20:05
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Motronic posted:I don't think you'll want an excavator for that kind of work. Sounds like a skid steer, potentially the walk behind type depending on size of the job. Those are very easy to use. how would you have someone do gravel drainage with a skid? while its not super easy to use a mini, i don't realistically know how you would do like french or gravel drainage using a skid steer if you're new to it.
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Oct 24, 2020 00:18
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i mean, i'm not sure - 'gravel drainage' to me sounds like one thing, but i've also put in a lot of french and tile drainage in my life so maybe I'm misinterpreting. if you're just doing a pad for a patio then you would absolutely want a skid steer over a mini excavator, even if you were a skilled excavator operator
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Oct 24, 2020 01:32
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i mean, a day rental for a skid steer (presumably a CTL, really, but for whatever reason everyone on my farm has always used 'skid steer' to mean both tracked and wheeled compact loaders and i hate it but it's habit) is probably in the region of 2-400 dollars from a home depot. as a rule i'd probably not tell a guy to learn to run powerful machinery immediately next to where he shits and eats, but if he wants to do it, okay. you do not want a mini excavator - an excavator bucket is not the right shape to remove six inches of dirt across such a wide area. you also probably do not want a mini ctl - operator fatigue sets in if you're not used to standing on that sort of thing and also whatever underpowered pos they're going to have for rent will probably not be very good at cutting dirt. if you do want to do this yourself, please at the very least hand shovel at least two shovelwidths off of whatever face of your house you are working near. i have no idea what an equipment rental place would have available, but you want your bucket to be wider than your machine. don't spin your tires or tracks. change the angle of your bucket before you resort to moving the arms.
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Oct 24, 2020 05:28
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also call before you dig and don't crash into your house.
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Oct 24, 2020 05:28
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Darchangel posted:I think they're trying to say "don't seed when it's windy", and just having fun with exaggeration. this is correct, fwiw i''m going to have rip two trees out of my yard (one is a hideous giant pine that i can replace) and the other is a giant elm that's now lifting up my deck and hardscaping that i'll probably just turn into a firepit or something
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May 4, 2021 15:13
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motronic is p much on the money - i haven't run a zero turn that wasn't a kawasaki engine that held up, but all of my past use is commercial so 1x a week use might hold up better. price being equal (or close), though, always get the kawasaki. i have never run a bad boy but if they do have a fixed deck i wouldn't spend even 100 dollars on one - if you're mowing 3 acres and someone didn't spend 75000 dollars grading your yard you're either going to tear the poo poo out of something somewhere or else you're not going to be cutting anything without changing the deck height sixty times. that gravely, assuming all of that description is true, will be fine for your needs. it might be a bit overpowered for your situation (i'm assuming you're not in a huge time crunch to mow your own yard) but that's a good price and it'll do what you want.
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Jun 24, 2021 13:51
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that's a surprising amount of drop, jesus. how close were you to bottoming out?
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Jul 7, 2021 17:57
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is that your property? i know there's the ditch right there but on my farm if i have ground that saturated it usually means there's a broken tile drain somewhere under my feet.
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Jul 8, 2021 12:12
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:56 |
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if it is that (ie, that it's not surface water but groundwater), you're not really going to do anything to change it (certainly not anything that would be cost effective or that your local environmental agency would enjoy). the construction of dams won't affect that water because it is water that has percolated into that ground over a long period of time and is just following the path of least resistance out.
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Jul 8, 2021 14:24
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