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River Rock Green Mica Gang. Mines a 1999 with the last year of factory locking diff. I paid a lot less but it's a rust bucket that I've been spending too much time base lining. Should have got a clean one like yours. Slowly going through it and hope to be back on the road in August. There is something about these trucks that really is special. Let me know if you have mod questions. Do you plan to keep the AHC?
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Jul 10, 2019 00:01
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Those Tundra TRD Pro wheels defeinitely bring the truck into modern times and I'm looking for a set for mine for DD duty. Yours has the more modern tails and I'm looking to grab a set to get rid of the orange. Cant wait to see where this goes and curious what rear bumper you end up with. I'm currently working on a DIY labs rear for mine.
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Jul 14, 2019 00:14
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Be glad it is just end links. Inspect your passenger frame mount of the sway bar. Mine is loving GONE. The AC drips onto the mount and it rots off. PO threw the sway bar out and did the 3 inch OME tbars and rear springs along with koni raids. I've had to panic avoid poo poo on the highway at 80 and had no complaints thanks to the uprated stuff. The brake stuff is... interesting. I have replaced all my lines and my electric booster seems okay, but I cannot wait until the rear end blasting that is replacing that happens. I'll order a rewound pump and I already have the master cyl rebuild kit in the glovebox. Oh while we're talking about stupid poo poo on these trucks look up the ignition rod failure. "my key spins freely and the truck wont shut off". I have a replacement one of those in the glovebox too. Just finished putting the interior back in after patching the cab corners. Turns out toyota drains the sunroof INTO the rocker, which in new england when the PO washes the car every week in the winter, just barfs everything into the rockers and rots it out. I'm step drilling through my 16 gauge and extending my sunroof drains straight out. My local dealer has been great about ordering poo poo when I give them my vin and point at diagrams. They arent the cheapest but they'll get poo poo that my go to wont ship big dumb items like brake lines. https://www.mcgeorgetoyota.com/ got me for my tithe for OEM CVs, fuel system stuff, lots of other little bits. I'm hoping to have mine sorted in a few weeks so I can go adventure this fall. It'll come offline this winter for a bunch of utterly loving stupid poo poo this winter though.
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Jul 25, 2019 05:15
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Ferremit posted:No swaybar in the front makes em a beast off-road. But unless you’ve got upgraded suspension it turns it into boaty mccruiserface... I threw Nitro Gear upper arms on and dear lord my floorjack is doin' a struggle to get the drat thing off the ground. Excited to really get it offroad with them. I went with the Slee braided lines as I put upgraded lines on all my trash. Rotors I'm letting them burn up then I'll do upgraded stuff. I wasn't concerned with them as is and they can wear a bit while I gently caress around this fall.
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Jul 25, 2019 06:11
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 4x4 labs DIY bumper kit welded up and in a primer coat. Swing out coming soon. Some cab rust repair and fuel system refresh is on the list next. After that I hang my sliders and rear bumper, send it out for alignment, inspection, and general once over. Once legal I plan to bankrupt myself on fuel every weekend until December. Not sure if I should piggy back here or the 4x4 thread but man these trucks are something else. I'm driving a sorted GX470 for the week and despite it being the better "value" my 100 brings me more joy.
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Aug 14, 2019 04:05
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4x4 labs bumper installed. Added aux lights and some other mods. Took a break from rust repair on the cab and installed my "attic". 13 dollars worth of closet rack, 98 cents worth of gloss black, and some hose clamps I had at the shop and I have storage for soft poo poo in the third row head area. I don't have the third row seats and that space is wasted otherwise. 
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Aug 18, 2019 01:59
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I like the bumper! Cooler that you fabbed it yourself. I’ve never done welding in my life but it’s something I want to try my hand at eventually. I go back and forth on armoring up my truck. I definitely want a front bumper but that will mean I need to install a lift. The extra weight will most definitely overwhelm the AHC suspension. just to be clear, the bumper was a precut kit from 4x4 labs. While I could have welded it myself, I plan to tow with it so I brought in a friend who welds cages and used the welding shop guys huge rear end welder to make sure this was soup to nuts done right. The reason I went with this bumper is that my rear crossmember was rotted out. New England 100s have the rear crossmember fill up with salty snow and rot from the inside out. This kit has you chop it out for a plated frame and a huge bit of box tube. So it kinda solved that issue for me. Otherwise I wouldn't have bothered. Added bonus I have more fuel storage options either on the swing out or under the truck. The only reason for front armor for me would be animal strikes. Which for now I just run light bars on every car I own and keep an eye out. Maybe a dissent alu option in the future or stay stock and do a front if/when I go 200.
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Aug 18, 2019 23:38
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I am so angry at the lack of rust. Mines been putting miles on jack stands because of it. Also awnings are sick and we used one on a buddys sequoia at a rally. It would have been REALLY handy when I was doing boat trailer wheel bearings in 95 degree heat. My friend gave me a smittybuilt awning. He had his bend a pole and called them, they just shipped him a whole new one. I'm going to call and ask if I can buy just a pole otherwise I'll just make a new one or hammer out the slightly kinked one and go with it.
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Aug 24, 2019 14:58
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Got my 100 on the road this week just in time to run sweep at Team O'Neils Rallysprint with ChrisGT running ham in the passenger seat:
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Oct 21, 2019 21:54
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Dec 2, 2019 15:53
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I've driven the 100 and the 120s and while my 100 is finally working out for me after fixing all the stupid neglected poo poo and rust from the PO, if I were to do it over again I'd get a gx460 or a 200 and just eat the price. Since I tow the 5.7 in the 200 is REALLY appealing. Plus the 100 front end is loving dumb and I hate every time I have to go in it. In other news I grabbed a military trailer from the 50s or 60s for a friend who has an xterra for offroading. He wants to build it out for more room and get his RTT off his truck. Hes got a SO and two big huskies so more room will be appreciated. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jan 6, 2020 |
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Jan 6, 2020 14:45
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Ferremit posted:Gotta say after working on the utter ball ache that was the front shock replacement on my parents 2009 Volkswagen Tiguan today (Nothing should take 2hrs a side to replace a loving shock absorber) I cant find a single reason to complain about the 100 series front end. I dont like the drive flange/bearing/axle setup. This is the only vehicle where I've needed a fish scale in my toolkit apparently? Setting the bearing preload seems to more magic than scientific. It's fine and durable, but there are a lot of moving parts when I'm used to only dealing with this poo poo on a trailer or an old dump truck. Yes I can field service it, but not quickly. Everything after that is a treat in comparison, unit bearings, single axle nuts, etc. I'm complaining to complain. The T bars I actually don't mind and the shocks are easy and right there. Grabbed aftermarket uppers that are really nice. The rest is we only got gas v8s and autos only on both 100 and 200, so why not pay extra for an extra 100hp/tq for the same MPGs. If you can deal with 120 and 150 poo poo, the GX (prado) twins are a good deal. RE rust talk, the 200 posted pics of isn't bad but it isn't good. Tremek hit it on the head. While you can probably break all the bolts loose and service it, get ahead on the frame rust coating/sealing, etc. The KDSS valves seizing up will gently caress you. I wouldn't bother if the dealer wont loosen the KDSS valves or if I can't break them free myself in the parking lot while the sales dickhead watches. It is gently caress you dollars to replace and re pressurize the things as he stated. The rest of the frame poo poo is they're thin and rot from the inside out, but its probably new enough to not be an issue. My friends 04 GX looks similar and I only have complaints near the rear crossmember and he needs to pull the rear bumper cover to wirewheel and clean up more. Poking with a screwdriver and sticking your fingers in the holes will tell you more than pictures. Also there is a thread on mud but I cant find it but people are starting to rip the AHC poo poo out of 200s and shut the lights off. With more time they'll be the same as 100 AHC retrofits I'm sure, just more bullshit to unplug.
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Jan 12, 2020 04:42
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MomJeans420 posted:I haven't done much reading on it, but seems like people with GXs easily remove the AHC and convert to coils, is the problem with the LXs that you get warning lights? One guy on the GX forum moved the AHC height sensor and was able to raise it 2" while keeping AHC. The GX rear air suspension and the LX AHC (literally hydrolic magic struts) are completely different things. On GXs you throw away the bags and put in a coil spring and go on with your life. On the 100 you rip all the AHC poo poo off and unplug the right things and it's FINE. On the 200 its magic.... There's a thread where people are starting to delete things and get away with it but I cant find it for the life of me. MomJeans420 posted:I made my first change to my GX today, swapping out the driving support switch control for the Canadian version in order to get muti-terrain select support. Pretty easy task, just take off a bunch of trim, the passenger knee airbag, and the glove box and you can swap the module out. The GX's and toyota in general are great about letting you fart modules in to upgrade things. There is a huge thread about retrofitting all the magic computers with part numbers for the gen 2 150 series.
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Jan 13, 2020 02:43
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Yeah I'm pissed. Mine is a 99 in the north east and I had to replace the literal everything because apparently the PO commuted through Boston harbor. At least I bought all the mods and got a free land cruiser, that's how I sleep at night. Serious though, congrats OP on finding a new rig. I know I hate when mine is down. In other news. I've finally sorted out my tundra wheel street setup. Looking to do 18s with C loads for driving around normally, and then 16 E loads for offroading and towing.  100 dollar tundra wheels and 100 dollar marketplace general grabber C loads at 8/32nds. Plus some duplicolor wheel paint.  Hoping to online my WRX this week for the next two months while I do a steering rack + lines and pump, front locker, and replace my rusty transfer case crossmember with a slee skid. Douggy headers too while I've puked most the front end out.
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Jan 21, 2020 04:04
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Mine didnt come with cabin air filters and the two I got in the mail didn't fit.... I had to open everything and vac out a ton of leaves and pine needles so the filter would actually seat in the thing.
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Jan 23, 2020 20:00
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Ferremit posted:I’ve got old man emu coils and torsion bars in mine- 600kg constant loads in the rear (but it is a stupid heavy truck) and now I’ve got the superior engineering remote res shocks on it and they’re BRILLIANT Mine came with OME stuff and I'm happy with them. For shocks it came with koni raids and man does the truck ride nights going fast in the rough stuff. I did nitro gear upper control arms and man am I happy with the suspension. Its just finishing baselining the everything else.
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Feb 17, 2020 02:57
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The upper arms were a kick in the dick cost wise, but the 2nd gen tundra ball joint and easy service plus the insane down travel are awesome. I had to do balljoints anyway. Few weeks back I drove up north after work to go ice fishing. Logging territory and small towns after dark. The stock headlights were only really good till 50-55mph, but the suspension would let you get away with 80+ on poo poo tarmarc. I put aux lights on all my stuff so I can get to where I need to go in a timely manner after dark and avoid animal strikes. We've been a huge fan of diode dynamics bars and they were engineered by a rally guy. I run an 18 inch on my WRX and its been a godsend shaving time getting back to civilization after hiking to get ready for work the next day. Threw two 6 inchers on the 100 today.  Purple is permatex rust converter. Rivnut tool is awesome. Normally I weld nuts in or behind but this was way quicker:  crash beam painted and lights in:  Cover on. Still have to adjust and align them after wiring (driver is crooked), but happy with how they came out. 
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Feb 18, 2020 01:21
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Stop breaking the glass of my daydreams! I just did 500 miles this weekend driving to Southern Utah and turned nearly exactly 20MPG (based on the onboard calculation). I suspect a 200 would probably get like 16 or 17 for the same route and speeds. I'm getting 13-14 on my 99 on 33s.... so a 200 would be an upgrade..... I'll make that move in a few years. Right now I'm trying to decide what to do about my front diff. I have to pull the steering rack and I have doug thorley headers, so it makes sense to pull the diff and do the bushings anyway all at the same time. Now having a 1999 I have the weak 2 pinion carrier and people still strip the ring gear too. While I'm light on the gas and didnt see any issues playing around this fall, I'd like to upgrade it for a piece of mind. Trying to decide if I go whole hog and just ARB and nitro gear R&P, or R&P plus the 4 pinion carrier I have in a box on the shelf etc etc, or just fart in a stock 2000+ diff.
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Feb 19, 2020 23:35
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Cruiser outfitters is awesome, I keep replying to 100 threads on FB and Kurt is a few minutes in later... Kind of wild to see. The OME kit should go in easy since you bought the right wrench.
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Feb 24, 2020 01:53
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A pass through socket set is what I'd be eying if you don't want to cut (probably cutting them right now). I should really start spraying mine and crack the nuts loose and retighten mine with antiseize because I am all about everything being field serviceable: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-Universal-Pass-Thru-Set-28-Piece-HUVTHRU28PC/203541515 those but with a 22mm or whatever you need
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Feb 26, 2020 23:32
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Mcqueen posted:That’s wild expensive. Over 500 bucks to fill the space I gained completely. gently caress. Thank you though. Long range America wants 1700 for a tank that goes there, so 500 bucks is on the "cheaper" side to get fuel under the truck. I also enjoy how they don't explicitly say you can or can't put fuel in those, it is very hopscotch in the writing. I've thought about rigging a cherokee tank or just making a jerry can holder for under the truck, but would love an apply dollars and install solution.
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Mar 4, 2020 15:39
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Ferremit posted:If you think fitting the diff drop is a pain in the dick, wait until you have to replace the factory steering rack bushings because they've gone all squishy... I'm doing diff bushings, steering rack with poly bushings, and headers soon. This oughta be good. I plan to just fart the whole front end out of the truck maybe leaving the knuckles in. ASPW is good, but very polarizing. I generally enjoy his content, but some find it a bit drawn out or masterbatorial. His video about the monteros, how lovely they were, and how it made the montero community the most butthurt in the history of butthurt was incredible.
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Mar 6, 2020 14:54
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 Front diff is out. All of the bushings are wasted.  All of the bolts for the steering rack are out, need to undo the lines and column (bolts are out) and I just need to figure out how to sneak it out after. I havent taken the tie rod ends off and was hoping I could sneak the whole thing out as is. One of the rack through bolts came out fine, the other I had to soak, heat, and slowly work in and out with a box wrench. Calling a local shop about locker install Monday, I'm not doing that poo poo myself. Gotta get the rack out, then start undoing the headers. And somewhere in there sandblast and repaint my diff drop and buy new hardware. I'm not a fan of powder coating in New England.
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Mar 8, 2020 01:58
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Congrats on getting it back on the road. A secret / sin you can do with taps is put a 12pt socket on them and use a 3/8s ratchet..... I bought nice US machinist taps on ebay one by one for the entire JIS spec (subaru, toyota, etc) and choked up on a 3/8ths ratchet hasn't gotten me in trouble yet. Got the steering rack out. I have a new steering intermediate shaft because I knew it might fight me, sawzalled the old one off because I dont have time. poo poo was seized on SOLID. I have new lines and need to order a new pump too. Had to jack the motor up to make room to sneak the rack out.... and I crushed the heater Ts. Probably a good thing to be honest. Need to figure out if I stick with OEM or go with some metal/brass ones.
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Mar 11, 2020 01:19
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I've got the slee sliders and a 3 inch lift on 33s and besides the adventure poo poo I've done in it, one of my favorite moments has been watching my 5'2 friend jump in and even with the sliders still manage to eat poo poo and end up in the passenger footwell. Front locker should ship Monday, just need to order up a steering rack and other bits.
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Mar 20, 2020 18:43
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
does locking the diff change anything? a stripped hub flange would be a lot nicer than a trans
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Mar 23, 2020 01:22
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IS 2020 OVER YET
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So back this fall once I onlined my 100 after fixing the rusty rockers, baselining the front end, unfucking the rusty rear end, fixing the locker, replacing all the brake and fuel lines.... I noticed after driving it the steering rack leaks. Part of overhaul part 2. I did a lot of cool poo poo this fall, but it wasnt perfect like I wanted and some of the land cruiser 100 flaws werent addressed. Time to go all in. Rip the front diff out to replace the weak carrier:  Leaking rack out. The steering intermediate shaft was seized on and I already bought another, cut it:  Break the heater Ts while jacking the motor up to get the rack out because you're too stubborn to undo the oil filter and a bunch of other poo poo "you're supposed to do". When Kurt Williams says four seasons are fine and order them, that's what I do.  And while the front diff... and steering rack... and steering shaft.... are all out. You have room to do... things....  Two days, a can of map gas, and some penetrant. Did I mention this was a New England truck all its life?  Going in once I get my lower gaskets that werent shipped in the order like the should have.  This week the front diff rebuild bits show up, so I can drop that off at the installer. This week and next weekend is wirewheel everything and paint, then headers and steering rack install. Going to try and get it all done so I'm just waiting on the diff to get the truck back on the road. After that it's rear swing out install, rear light bar install, lots of other wiring projects. etc.
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Mar 30, 2020 00:01
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Parts coming in. Toyota used these nifty crush washers to go from header to cat section: awww yiss  Went with the medium instead of the twin compressor. I'm already blowing the budget on this truck.   All new diff bushings, the stock ones were wasted.  Oh and I got the headers on:   Ran the wiring for the compressor and switches. My buddy 3d printed a replacement trim piece for a switch. The stock trim piece didnt come with my truck. I just blasted it with a gold I had laying around but will try and do a brown to match the trim or if I find a black center stack I'll go all black.  I have a choice to make of where I put the air compressor switch. I either extend the wiring and hack it to the left of the steering column... or I put it between the cig lighters and keep the wiring harness as is. While the diff and rack are out I painted the frame with the usual routine. Wirewheel it off, permatex rust converter, and then chassis saver silver (they mix in alu flakes/dust in only the silver). I've had good luck with this combo and I finish everything off with just rattle can semi or flat black. When the rattle can disappears and you see silver you know you need to recoat.   Next sessions are get the steering all installed and then once the diff comes back from locker install throw that in. Then I'm nearly done the build. Just more toys to bolt on.
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Apr 5, 2020 23:27
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Frame is painted with satin. Konis repainted with proper red. Heater T's replaced, just need proper clamps for them. Steering rack and lines installed today. Tie rod ends threaded on. Picked up fittings for the ARB compressor along with a hose so I can do field air up. Tomorrow is install all the steering shaft bits and figure out where I'm bolting down the ARB compressor. Parts order in for the last of the bits to hook up the steering pump system. Guy who I wanted to install my locker is on a slower work schedule due to the rona. Wed I'll have an answer and if I need to find another installer. After I figure that out I should be back on the road and worrying about upgrades not deferred maintenance and rust.
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Apr 12, 2020 01:17
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Ferremit posted:Biggest thing with the 12v compressors when your working them hard is making sure they have enough airflow- I had mine bolted down to the inner guard against the firewall for years and it would thermal cut out if I was doing all 4 tyres from beach pressures or doing the car + camper together, but once I lifted it up into the airflow from the engine fan, it can do my car, the camper, my mates car and his camper all one after each other without hitting thermal cutout. I've got the ARB single and really need it just to actuate the locker. I have air fittings attached so I can air up. Not really in a rush with 50% duty, but I was going to mount it tucked low against the firewall and your cooling thoughts have me rethinking it. I need to fit a relay control box, the ARB, winch solenoid, and I'd like to have a second battery. It's an early truck so all the evap poo poo is in the engine bay too. I may end up coming up with a controller solution and smaller battery in the back of the truck. Still a lot up in the air. Locker guy is onboard for delivery this week though.
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Apr 19, 2020 01:29
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Jun 8, 2020 05:00
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Blerr derrr derrr full effort post now that the truck is running and back on the road. During the header swap I crushed the heater Ts against the firewall while jacking the motor up for more room. gently caress it four seasons metal ones went in.  New OEM steering rack:  So my OEM transfer case crossmember was rotted out and I wanted better trans protection. I debated between the Slee full skid and Trail Tailor's stinger setup. The slee setup wanted to use only the frame bolts holes and rivnut into the frame and is heavier. I went with Trail Tailors stinger style skid crossmember because of the less weight and it uses the inner bolts on the frame bracket as well as the frame bolt holes itself.  Since I budgeted for two races that are cancelled this year, I kinda just started balling out on the truck since I can only hike and camp due to the 'rona. New smaller fridge to go along with the 86QT one I already have. 19QT alipicool. I'm going to build a sleeping platform and this one will be perfect for one or two people and sliding under the platform.  Back to the crossmember swap:  Old one came off and of the 8 bolts only one snapped off. Drill and tap and we're back in business. Crossmember was wasted:  Along with the transfer case mount:  Diff back from ARB install. Took six weeks:  Trail Tailor lateral link skids/armor:  Because I kinda need them:  Diff painted and ready for install:  Buddies came through and helped tie loose ends up to get the thing running and out the door:   Out the door for a warm up, leak check, and wash.  Alignment, only 1.6 degrees of toe off total. Not bad for eyeball.  Finally home:  New fogs in the mail with bulbs and pigtails, for whatever loving reason the wires were clipped under the truck. Just PO things.   Testing the fridge with the custom wire run. On the safest voltage setting it wont want to run on the group 31 main battery, I already have a jackery power box on order so will mostly use that and the truck wiring when running, second battery may or may not happen depending on how much I care.  Needed to get the ARB compressor mounted and was going to do a custom bracket out of scrap just welded to the body but I decided I didn't want to do custom stuff and reinvent the wheel so I just said gently caress it and got the Slee bracket.  All installed. The warn solenoid pack will be changed to a contactor solid state setup and moved near the battery to reduce a ton of space and utter loving nonsense wiring that came with the truck.  Already putting the thing to work, hauled a bunch of lumber and other bullshit, then today played frame machine:  Teammate bent the front end at snow drift. Main frame horns okay, but upper frame horns / fender supports were tweaked a bit. Spot welds torn where they are welded to the A pillar unibody area. Harbor freight tree saver and the winch line through a snatch block to slow the speed down so we're a bit more precise. For the critics, I didn't like using the soft shackle like that but for yanking thin sheet metal it was fine, I'd rig way differently if I were in the field but this was quick and dirty. The harbor freight tree saver is too thick to hit the snatch block with the arb d rings, need bigger ones.  Static lines to a chebby 2500 and a forklift to fully triangulate the thing.   Upper frame horn tugged out and fenders fit up alright, so just quick tugs on the rad support and some porta power massaging. Rest of the work is hammering around to get the headlights to fit and massage a bit more to fit the fender. Mostly done. 
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Jun 15, 2020 02:18
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
MomJeans420 posted:I feel like my "I added a Sherpa roof rack" post I came here to make pales in comparison to slow is fast's ridiculous post. Thanks guys, I've been wrenching for like 15 years now so it's all been years of rusty junk in New England, different platform, same rust. While this truck wasn't ideal, the price and mods it came with is why I got it and stuck with it, friend of a friend deal. You've got to start somewhere and there is nothing wrong with bolting bits onto a nice clean truck. I would have probably have gone on more adventures by now if I went that route.
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Jun 15, 2020 19:41
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that was a serious effortpost. Your rehab on that thing is really inspiring. If I saw that level of rot and rust I would just resign to total destruction or sell it off at a huge financial loss. I can also tell that I have definitely got the land cruiser stockholm syndrome because seeing a brand new steering rack is like drool worthy. You are definitely levels above me as far as being a wrench is concerned. I have gotten way better since my first LX but some of the stuff you are tackling would just leave me opening my wallet and dropping it off to others.
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I want to grab a later wheel with buttons because my aftermarket head unit supports extra input.
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Jun 26, 2020 15:11
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I've been using raamat for years and yeah, what the guy above said. http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html Okay did some other poo poo.  This junk for size while designing.  Left over wood and screws at the shop. Had to buy plywood for the top.  Some carpet.  And sleeping platform that lines up with the rear seats folded down.... done.  Truck is full of bullshit because the next day a buddy and I landed a tree felling job. We're looking to do some friends and family landscaping and arborist work and his folks had some trees they wanted taken care of. 90+ weather the fridge full of water put in work and I made it run off the jackery only to get a feel for how much draw. Three trees killed by vines that needed to come down. Friend would be taking the lumber for firewood. Not near any power lines or trees so it was good safe practice.  The first two were so trapped in vines they wouldn't drop cleanly.  so we got the skidder out.  Last one I dropped cleanly. I was a few degrees off of where I wanted it to go but I figured out immediately on the stump what was wrong with my cut to have it fall a little off of target. Good experience and practice.  I threw the 18s on with market place tires. I'm only 200 into this set of wheels and tires + paint.  Thumbsed up this 200 on the way home with a roof top tent and wild plates I've never seen before:  Grabbed the kayaks from my folks house:  I now cannot fit in my work parking garage and am WFH forever now. And today was at an old airfield exploring.  Front diff breather is extended, relay box bracket is in, just need to install the relay box and I'll have an 8 panel switch in cab. Couldn't find the airline that came with the ARB so I ordered some. of course I ordered 5mm instead of 6. Friend is grabbing me 6 from his work so locker should be plumbed soon. After that it's weld on the rear swing out and install and wire the rear light/chase bar and I'm mostly "done". Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jun 30, 2020 |
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Jun 30, 2020 23:43
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Bit annoyed, sunk the truck dicking off in mud yesterday. Completely high centered. Dragged out no problem. Get on the road and drive 30 minutes to meet friends and the mud shedded out the tires no harm no foul. Drive an hour and half home and as I'm driving I hear an intermittent WUB WUB on acceleration around 28-30mph. This morning I go to head north into the woods and its WUB WUB WUB anywhere from 15-30 miles an hour. Alright drive to the shop, get the front end in the air and inspect everything, clean out the brakes, clean and grease the driveline, etc. Drive around test circuit and its quiet. Drive friend to the store and wub wub at 10mph leaving a light. Drive home and nothing over a half hour except once over 30mph. On the highway also load each corner and hear more road noise, so I think I'm going to pull the hubs apart in the front, inspect, and repack the wheel bearings. Not sure what else it could be. Wanted to be in the woods this weekend, but instead I'm checking bits over because I want this 100% perfect and turn key.
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Jul 5, 2020 01:42
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cool fuckin cool 
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Sep 8, 2020 04:33
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Ferremit posted:Oh yours went at that end! I have the OME brackets to install. Do you folks weld up the broken arm and then weld the brackets on, or buy new control arms and then do the brackets. Trying to decide if I'm hunting a control arm or not. edit: ebay'd a driver side control arm for 125 bucks. Time to learn how torsion bars work. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 14:05
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I ditched the truck at my folks last night after driving 20 miles of logging road and then 150 miles of highway to get there. Today I drove it the last 40 to the shop. Rides fine on the highway on the bumpstops. Take it all apart tonight. The adjuster bolt was loose but im assuming thats because the arm is no longer in tension. It seemed to spin fine with the impact. Hosed both down with wiesel piss.    The results of beating cheeks over washboards and whoops. I'm camping all weekend and the arm shows up Monday, so next week ill get them seam welded and the OME FK27 brackets welded on then reinstalled.  I plan to be a bastard and just set the drive height to where the pass was along with measure with Ferremit's instructions for shock travel and kinda go from there. Once driver side is set and happy, I'll do the pass side. Oh and this showed up. I only use a single key to keep stress off the ignition rod (which I have a spare in the glove box), but the single ebay key case was creaky. Grabbed an AJT design as yotaMD is loving stupid priced. Seems cool so far. 
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Sep 9, 2020 03:17
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:18 |
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I GOT MY NEW CONTROL ARM IN THE MAIL I WELDED ON THE OME BRACKET ON THE DRIVER SIDE I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND SET RIDE HEIGHT AND IT WAS FINE I WENT TO BRACE THE PASSENGER SIDE TODAY I KNOCKED THE T BAR BRACKET OFF WITH OUT MARKING IT MY TORSION BARS ARE NOT KEYED I SET EVERYTHING AS GOOD ENOUGH AS I CAN IT DROVE HOME OKAY I AM VERY EXCITED TO RE INDEX MY TORSION BARS THIS WEEKEND  I'm probably a spline or three off but I'm driveway tape measuring all this. I literally don't care about these tires and it drives nice enough. I just wanted to caps lock cruise control for cool rant about t bars.
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Sep 25, 2020 03:36
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