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So fedex left the lights but took the head bolts back to the hub, why? No big deal since now its stripped down top the short block since I couldnt leave the seals alone, did them all.   Gonna work on the oil drain next so I can get the pan painted to dry overnight. Im also deleting the AC compressor and power steering and the alternator belt ran off the AC compressor so I have to figure out how to fit that so all thats left on the belt is the water pump and alt. There are a million brackets to get the rube goldberg machine of a belt drive to work on this car so Im sure I can build something out of all the stuff to simplify it. I should definitely have more than 100hp when Im done!
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Dec 19, 2019 21:55
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Oil drain done, just welded some nuts on the inside to hold the AN port. Its going to be close to the oil level which isnt ideal but I had no choice other than to make a huge line that went to the front of the pan and that would just add tons of restriction and look terrible, this is a straight shot down. Used up the last of my DDAG so I have to get a new color for the valve cover. Got my head bolts too so today should be pretty productive.   Oil drain and windage tray  New larger oil pump 
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Dec 20, 2019 18:27
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Head is back on and I got two of the winter tire wheels painted After and before 
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Dec 20, 2019 23:54
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More fun update this time. Got the turbo on and the oil feed line plumbed. Definitely going to have to make a bracket or two for the line, its out of control. Ive been removing vacuum and evap hoses and stuff so the bay will be cleaner then I reorganize whats left with the cool loom that I found. All I really need is the vacuum hose to the hvac and power brakes that I may have to find check valves for if there arent any already and add some wiring for the gauges that I got. Im going to make it so both the dash and added gauges all work, might as well have clean redundancy. Waiting on an AN fitting as the turbo fitting is 8 and the line and fitting to the pan are 10 but I have a brass fitting I can use for now with a hose clamp. Biggest thing left to modify is the valve cover to move the throttle bracket. I have to cut it off, move it 90 degrees and towards the center and weld it back on. The cover is also rusty so Ill clean that up and paint it so hopefully it will be dry tomorrow. I also want to modify the PCV in it as right now it has a screen and I want to remove that so its a lot better free flowing into a catch can Ill have to buy or make. Im also going to have a vent into the exhaust that if I do it right should draw a slight vacuum when there is a lot of exhaust flow and suck the vapors out. I also have the EGR passage on the exhaust manifold that I plan to put a pressure gauge on and see how much pre turbo pressure there is so I know when to give up on pushing it harder when the returns start to diminish.      The photo didnt come out since its a hard angle but I can get to the wastegate adjustment pretty easily which Im happy about since the way it came the bracket was useless so I have no idea what it should be set at and Im going to have to play with it a lot.  
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Dec 22, 2019 23:28
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I forgot to take a before pic cause I was doing video but heres what the valve cover looked like. Rusty and bad with the bracket in the wrong place for the Weber Derusted, cut and moved bracket, applied high performance red so people know right away that this is a high performance machine and it was the only color engine enamel I had handy on a Sunday night  
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Dec 23, 2019 01:03
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Cummins red, DD green, Caterpaillar yellow, is this thing even going to run?
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Dec 23, 2019 01:09
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Sure it's just always going to leak oil despite my efforts
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Dec 23, 2019 02:07
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Powershift posted:Cummins red, DD green, Caterpaillar yellow, is this thing even going to run? It’s like a Harlequin Golf though right?
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Dec 23, 2019 03:19
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Well cam is back in and timed and I don't even want to admit how many times I put it on one tooth off. I thought I was losing my mind. Probably am, been breathing an enormous amount of paint fumes. There was an incident with brake cleaner and I had to go scorched Earth and repaint the valve cover. So close yet so far away
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Dec 24, 2019 04:35
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I love catching up on a story thread like this, looks great, always liked these more than golfs for some reason.
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Dec 24, 2019 16:55
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Subscribed. Nothing to add but an attaboy.
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Dec 24, 2019 16:59
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cakesmith handyman posted:I love catching up on a story thread like this, looks great, always liked these more than golfs for some reason. Me too though I love Golfs as well. For some reason theyre just not as popular as GTIs and theyre still cheap as hell to buy. A nice 16V can be had for like 4-5K, and I mean NICE. Parts are also pretty cheap and easy to find since the chassis is all MK1. It only sucks finding specific parts like body and interior so I hoard those just in case. Ive only have a couple hours before I have to go so I wont get it running today but Ill get a few things done. I test fit the alternator yesterday and found a way to fit it. Pretty easily too. Put the AC/PS pump bracket back on and found a hole for the alt so it bolts on and lines up with the outer pulleys with no shimming or anything. I just have to get a longer belt to go around all 3 and I have the greatest shop ever in town for belts and hydraulic hoses, they have everything and hopefully theyre open tomorrow. I just have to make a bracket for the other hole in the alt to make an adjuster which I started on just now. The valve cover came out better on the second try   Alternator fitting  Pulleys line up, so stoked about that, I thought I was going to spend an entire day fabricating stuff  Start of adjustment bar 
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Dec 25, 2019 18:37
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Almost done with the alternator bracket. I had to drill a bunch of holes then finish milling it out by hand with a dremel, that took some time but it worked. I just have to take a little more off so that it clears the fan blades at the smaller adjustment then make it pretty. The belt place was closed today but will be open tomorrow so should be good to go after that.  Then I went to put the downpipe I saved from the Jetta on but it didnt fit. Jetta has cable shift and mine is linkage and the front-back lever hit it pretty hard. There was no way around cutting it up and changing it around. I forgot to take a before pic but it kinda looked like this  It came out and went straight down. I had to rotate where it came out 90 degrees and then it ran into the intake so I had to cut the pipe and rotate that down a little less than 90 degrees, like 87 since straight down would hit the linkage again. Now it clears everything and I should be able to add a little pipe straight down then another 90 to connect to the rest of the exhaust. Ill do that some other time though since for now I just want it to run and it will sound cool  
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Dec 26, 2019 23:14
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Man, this thread makes me miss my mk 1 stuff. My first car was an 83 GTI that I resurrected from sitting for almost a decade. I loved that car, it was a ton of fun. It eventually got sold and then I had an 88 16v Scirocco, which was a *ton* of fun. That engine is fantastic, revs to the moon, never drank a drop of oil, hardly even leaked any either. I sold it before I got out of college, sadly. I would've loved to ditch the diving boards and do the full euro look. Cash for clunkers killed all these fun old cars, and it's a real shame.
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Dec 27, 2019 04:24
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The 16Vs are crazy, I think they did something like 7-7.5 seconds to 60 which is drat good for the late 80s. I'll see if I can find my dealers brochure, the first owner had both prices written on it and decided to go with the 8V. Now I'm really close to being done, finally. I dropped one of the valve cover nuts and thought it went down the oil return, swore, took the oil pan down to then find it laying in the cam gear. Got the intake, all the hoses, radiator, valve cover, cap/rotor and wires all back on plus all the little things like vacuum hoses back on. Just have to finish the carb and put fluids in and it will run again. The biggest thing is the plugs for the injectors. I got big plugs to put in but I have to grind off the large flange off the top first with an angle grinder. It sucks and takes about a half hour each. It made the decision to unbury my lathe and make it useable again. It will be so worth it for poo poo like those plugs. I have a milling machine too and same thing. It will make fabricating parts so much faster and better. These are the plugs. I've got 2 done, 2 to go  I wasn't going to use an intercooler but I have one and I could fit like 3 in this space  Holy moly. Look at all that room for an oil cooler and stuff in front of the rad  Soooo close 
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Dec 29, 2019 02:36
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Got everything back together, battery back in, then spent an hour looking for the keys. Found those. Turn the key, no fuel pump noise. Now the fuel pump was stuck. Motherfucker. Pulled it out and freed it up but have to get in-tank fuel line. New ones from last year were disintegrating already. The gas is old and loving everything up. One more day one more day
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Dec 31, 2019 00:51
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It lives again! I just did the bare minimum to get it out of my shop. I still have a ton of work to do in the spring. The oil alarm is on only because it's not hooked up. The turbo sounds great, Im extremely excited to get that and all the other things finished next. I stayed in the yard since the roads probably still have salt all over them. After a few drives it quit on me. The cam bolt came off along with the pulley, think I forgot to tighten it, oops. Luckily it didn't destroy the woodruff key and it's a non-interference engine. When I was putting it back together I lost the key and had to try to find one that fit at the hardware store. None were exact so I got one that I was grinding down to fit. I accidentally dropped it and it landed under the car right next to my lost one, so lucky on that one too. I've still got some write ups for Charlie history but this will be all the work for a while unless I can find some time here and there to work on it. Better chances of that since it's at least running and I can just drive it into the shop. I ended up draining the gas and putting new stuff in with stabil when I fixed the fuel pump. Some of the gas in there was from 2010 when I drove back from Florida so it think that's what was messing up the fuel pump, you could smell it going stale and it even looked cloudy in the fuel filter Oh yea the steering is perfect unpowered. I was worried it would be a lot of work since I plan on doing autocross and road race stuff with it. Right now it's still the power rack with no pump but I have brand new everything to swap it to manual the right way later on. Even more weight shaved off. So next I have to get the Outback finished. Everything is ready I just have to have a friend help me get it into the shop tomorrow. Looking forward to putting all my nice painted stuff back on and drive it. I hate driving the Silverado unless I need to. I did however finally install the aux jack for the stereo in today so that will help it be a little less sucky to drive. That Alpine parking brake bypass unit works perfect too. I can finally get to a ton of setup menus I was unable to access until now. After the Subaru is done I have a paying job swapping an auto in a 98 4wd Ranger. It lost reverse "just Ford things". Anyone done one? It doesn't look too bad but if anyone knows so some tricks it would be a help Short drive video https://youtu.be/piFf_w2JU1Y
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Jan 4, 2020 03:23
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Glad to see it running again. Keep it up!
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Jan 4, 2020 15:10
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sharkytm posted:Glad to see it running again. Keep it up! Hell yea, I gotta get some stuff done on the daily beaters and get my equipment ready for next year but I should be able to squeeze a gauge hook up or exhaust fix in here and there in between. Getting Daves rack back in right now, just got it started, steering column hooked up and loose brackets for jostling purposes. Can see the new poly bushings and with all the new parts the front end should be real fuckin tight. Its so nice having all the clean/painted stuff ready to slam back in.    My wheel centering device 
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Jan 6, 2020 01:07
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Oh boy oh boy oh boy!     Looked up some home alignment videos and seemed like all were 0 toe? Using the string method. I just have to get it to the alignment store It really blows rear end to do all that work then put the snow tires on. It's way too cold for the summers or I'd leave them until it does snow. I'd die in cold rain if I had to panic stop. I forgot the picture of the power steering lines but they look like power steering lines just new and shiny
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Jan 7, 2020 04:17
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shy boy from chess club posted:Looked up some home alignment videos and seemed like all were 0 toe? Using the string method. I just have to get it to the alignment store A couple tape measures is probably good 'nuff for that. I live in the city (so it's never too far from a shop, but YMMV) and never even try to align it, just screw the tie rods back on the approximate same number of turns.
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Jan 7, 2020 13:16
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There's a bunch of shops not too far so I just have to find one that can do it tomorrow. I'm all done finally and no leaks so far. Well no new ones at least. I just eyeballed it and if it goes semi straight to the shop that's all I care about. I forgot pics again but it looks totally fly with the olive green wheels. I'll get some tomorrow. I got some stuff to do some bitchin mods once it's driveable again that I can't wait to do. I have to get the ranger trans swapped first to make some money then back to fun stuff.
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Jan 8, 2020 02:42
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Got an appointment in the morning, shop is like 4 miles so I dont have to sweat too much. Love how the wheels look and did some work under the hood too.   The worst rust hole, I chipped it out so I can start working on it. Im kicking myself for throwing out the old hood from my truck since it would have been a ton of sheet metal I could have cut up. Ill see what I can find for cheap at the junkyard nearby. 
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Jan 9, 2020 00:48
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Are those arches the same radius as first gen Forester? I've got left and right rear arch cuts for my red Forester from our Colorado adventure that Roy was gonna grab but I dunno if he's still interested. Also, do you need free seating? Because I've got a pair of Dodge 2500 van bench seats that are comfy as gently caress and would make great shop seats, but I gotta ditch them. I'd rather give them to someone who can get good use out of them than scrap.
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Jan 9, 2020 01:05
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Oh I'm not sure if they are the same but I can see if Roy still wants them. Even if not if they're close I can make them work. I was going to start with flat metal anyway. I may be interested in the seats, can you just let me know how wide? I'd use one in the 56 and one in the 86 dump. I was thinking about swapping seats from a Silverado like mine into the 86 anyway. The vinyl sucks in the summer.
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Jan 9, 2020 03:03
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Say hi to Roy for me. I hope he's doing well. I'm surprised you have that much arch rust and no rust in the rear door frames. That dogleg is where I usually see the worst of it on our local cars.
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Jan 9, 2020 03:26
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The driver side has a small hole in the bottom of the rear door frame and a much smaller wheel well hole that I've got to fix as well. That's it though, it's totally mint underneath with factory paint/ undercoating still there. If it wasn't I wouldn't be putting this much time and money into it but it's worth it. I still have a bunch of parts stacked up for more improvements. Basically just going to do a rolling resto on it. Speaking of that does anyone know off hand if third gen front seats bolt in? I found a pair of mint black power/heated leather seats for cheap at the junkyard and thinking about snagging them before someone else does. I might anyway, can't be any harder to make them fit than the entire bracket I made for the Scirocco. Roy's doing ok, gonna try to go see him as soon as he has time. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 05:04
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I'll hit em with a tape measure and let you know! They're the quick release kind - so all you'd need to make mounting brackets is the right diameter round rod stock and some angle bracket to weld it into. They also have at least a couple seatbelts and/or buckles built in but I can't remember the details on that. Tan cloth. I've got a couple grey 95+ XJ bucket seats too but I doubt you want them... Not very comfortable IMO.
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Jan 9, 2020 13:53
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The one I just measured: 55.5 inches across the widest point, would crush inward a few inches no problem if that's too wide. It feels like the frame is about 53-54 inches wide right at the bottom back corner. It has 3 seats worth of seatbelts, shoulder belt on the driver side, lap belts for the middle and right. Would only need to install the quick release post bolt on the driver side B pillar to have full belts... Or pull them off and forget it of course. I'll measure the other one when I get a chance.
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Jan 9, 2020 15:55
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shy boy from chess club posted:Got an appointment in the morning, shop is like 4 miles so I dont have to sweat too much. Love how the wheels look and did some work under the hood too. Oof, that rust hole. Now that I own a second-gen Outback, I kind of want to find a manual first gen to lift and play with. Kinda. I don't have a shortage of other cars right now. I would just start modifying the '03, but it's currently the wife's daily, so best to leave it alone for now. I wish I could just throw a manual in there (H6 automatic) but she needs the auto - back issues make using a clutch a literal pain. Until this car, she had all manuals. Heck, if there was a way to program the automatic to be better, that would be nice. It *really* wants to upshift ASAP and hates to downshift. edit: I bet a wrecking yard will sell you a bent hood or fender cheap, since it's only worth scrap.
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Jan 9, 2020 17:41
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Darchangel posted:Oof, that rust hole. Wait mines a first gen? I thought it was second but now that I think about it it was a Loyale previously, oops. So I have to see if those second gen seats will fit mine. Luckily thats the worst rust so as soon as I get some metal Ill cut it all out plus remove the plastic around the gas fill pipe and hope that isnt rusted through yet so I can bulletproof it all. Maybe I can angle for a free piece of a bent something if I get the seats as well. Its the same junk yard Ive been going to for 20 years so I got high hopes. It just failed emissions though so I have to see why. I didnt think to check because the light isnt on but I got a code for the TPS and Air and Fuel Metering which I assume is a MAF or vacuum leak. Both of those items are new and have been messed with recently to get rid of the hesitation that is finally gone. I might have just not driven it far enough yet. Im just going to clear them and see if they come back. Getting rid of the hesitation is the best thing Ive ever done to this car, it feels like a rocketship compared to when I first got it. The auto has been flaring on the 2-3 shift like once a month recently so its time to think of the next move. Otherwise it shifts like a champ so I think I have plenty of time to think of getting a JDM 2.0 turbo with a 5 speed and swapping that in. They go for like $1500 on ebay. It works out perfectly since after this emissions test it will be exempt by the next one so I can just run a Haltec or something for the turbo swap. They did a good job on the alignment and the guy was stoked that everything was new. Never said anything about the harlequin paint job though. Just glad to have my car back. Gotta call the Ranger guy and get that done so I can start on the cam swap/valvetrain upgrade on the Silverado and check out what happened to the AC. I hope it was just the clutch and not the whole compressor and black death. Its only got 93k on the drat thing. e: I just remembered I ran it with the header off to get it into the shop, I bet that air metering code is the 02 sensor not seeing any exhaust e2: 02 sensor wasn't even connected, that has to be it shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 18:53
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Darchangel posted:Oof, that rust hole. 
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Jan 9, 2020 20:00
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shy boy from chess club posted:e2: 02 sensor wasn't even connected, that has to be it That'll do it. Otherwise if it fails against, post the Pcodes.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:35
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shy boy from chess club posted:Wait mines a first gen? I thought it was second but now that I think about it it was a Loyale previously, oops. Yup. 1G: '94-99 There was a generation of Legacy wagons before that, but they were never Outback-ed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Outback edit: so, 1G Outbacks are 2G Legacies, and so on. Mine is an '03, so almost the end of the second generation. I'd now like a 3G with the H6. I like the styling better, and you can actually put headers on 'em. More factory lift, too. Don't really like the fourth and fifth gens - they got a little... melty? looking. Less "sporty" and/or butch for sure. Not sure how to describe what it is about the styling I don't like. Too bland and faux-"upscale", maybe? Can be fixed with mods, though. The Impreza based OB Sports are neat, too, but I like the station wagon utility of the Legacy-based version. taqueso posted:That's nothing, you should see my subaru Don't wanna.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:12
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Suburban Dad posted:That'll do it. Otherwise if it fails against, post the Pcodes. I found the reason for the MAF code, bad solder joint that was probably touching intermittently that detached when I opened the cover. Reflowed it and that code went away. On the top right there. Had to carefully remove some really rubbery conformal coat but the joint came out ok. It looks like the wires are touching but theyre ok.  Im still getting a TPS code which makes sense because I been having a weird problem where at low throttle inputs the engine cuts out violently for just a fraction of a second. Its been doing it for a while and its the same thing my GTI was doing when I had a corroded connection on the crank sensor. The one on this car looks real bad and I dont want to touch it yet. I also dont think its that because a problem with the TPS explains that engine cut out, the idle problems I was having and Im also getting a code for transmission throttle input which may explain the intermittent flaring. I put the old TPS back on and unhooked the battery that Ill leave off for a half hour or so and get a fresh start now that the MAF is fixed also. Ill know right away because the TPS code shows up the instant I touch the throttle, hopefully the new sensor was just bad. If not Ill have to investigate the harness for problems.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:40
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shy boy from chess club posted:I found the reason for the MAF code, bad solder joint that was probably touching intermittently that detached when I opened the cover. Reflowed it and that code went away. What mentally deficient fuckwit designed that so that the leads have to cross? And then left them uninsulated? Wow...
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Jan 10, 2020 18:44
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Darchangel posted:What mentally deficient fuckwit designed that so that the leads have to cross? And then left them uninsulated? Wow... It was on wholesale blowout sale on rockauto for reaaaal cheap. It does work though, the old one was bad for sure.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:46
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shy boy from chess club posted:It was on wholesale blowout sale on rockauto for reaaaal cheap. It does work though, the old one was bad for sure. Ah, so not OEM. Got it.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:47
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Old TPS is back on and adjusted and no codes with 20 mins or so of driving. Just have to get the cat monitors to run and it should pass. No more cutting out and now its shifting at 3-3.5k and it rules and has tons of power (relatively).
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Jan 10, 2020 19:56
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Darchangel posted:Ah, so not OEM. Got it. SKP, Skyward Automotive Products, nothing but the best (price). If it keeps running like this Ill spring for the OEM Hitachi in the summer.
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Jan 10, 2020 19:58
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