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Dangit, I do not need any encouragement to spend money on my RC10 chassis. I don't have a radio or anything (yet).STR posted:Any Subaru dealer can cut a new key with proof of ownership. I had to do that to get a key that actually opened (almost) everything. There's no immobilizer on that year model (USDM anyway), it ran me $15. Stupid question, but what do they want for proof-of-ownership? The title? I want new OEM keys cut for the OB and my Crown Vic.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:27
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Darchangel posted:Dangit, I do not need any encouragement to spend money on my RC10 chassis. I don't have a radio or anything (yet). Have you looked on amazon at radios and batteries yet? Theyre reeaaal cheap, I can get you some links if you want, first ones on me
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Feb 11, 2020 00:31
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shy boy from chess club posted:Have you looked on amazon at radios and batteries yet? Theyre reeaaal cheap, I can get you some links if you want, first ones on me I’m gonna be the boring guy and suggest the LiPo/brushless upgrade. The runtime you get from the modern stuff really is amazing. I have an SCX-10 short course truck (the great great grand-baby of your RC-10) and I get 30+ minutes runtime out of a single charge without any difficulty. The limiting factor becomes the heat in the motor if you’re constantly goosing it like a hack. More power means more faster right? https://imgur.com/gallery/xCpNGSP Related - it’s my car on the track at the local bmx park. The suspension on this thing truly is amazing.
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Feb 11, 2020 05:43
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If you don't mind possibly getting coronavirus check out http://www.hobbyking.com. Last time I got really into this stuff a few years ago they were beating Amazon prices by a pretty good margin. I recommend setting it to USA warehouse only otherwise it can take a while to get things, possibly longer with how things are going over there right now. Run the batteries and setup you have for a while but when you get the urge for longer run times and more power charliemonster42 is right, LiPo is the way to go these days. The run time as well as the massive discharge rates capable make them so much better than the old stuff. I tested Hobbyking batteries against some of the best/expensive batteries on the market and they were comparable. Grab a HK smart charger, lipo bag (to charge them in TRUST ME) and a couple batteries for hours of run time. You guys are not helping me resist the urge
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Feb 11, 2020 13:43
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Oh yea the charger I got does lipo cell balancing, keeping the future in mind here. For now just wanted to get the old car running, that's all, nothing more I swear this time
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Feb 11, 2020 14:21
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Barely related, but how does cell balancing work anyway? Especially once you get into a multi-battery application? Our forklifts and pallet jacks at work run on 24V - they each have six 12V batteries, wired in series-parallel (two sets of 3; the 3 are paralleled, the two sets in series to get 24V). Our chargers automatically go into cell balancing mode once they hit something like 85% charged. They're some beefy rear end chargers that crank out nearly 100 amps @ 24V (going by the display anyway - they quickly ramp up to ~90 amps if the batteries are really low). We have one newer charger that's much smaller; one of our forklifts just got gel batteries to replace the lead acid ones, but it also does balancing. It's always amusing watching someone yank the charging cable off of one while the charger is going full bore. Big rear end spark and a loud OHSHIT. There's a big red "STOP" button on the chargers for a reason. The fuckers take 3 phase 277V power FFS. Darchangel posted:Stupid question, but what do they want for proof-of-ownership? The title? I want new OEM keys cut for the OB and my Crown Vic. I took the purchase receipt from the dealer; a registration receipt or title would also work. Make sure you have your ID. Some dealers might accept an insurance card with the VIN on it (Austin Subaru wouldn't, but I had the purchase receipt with me; the one you get as a temporary proof of registration to keep in the glove box until you get your permanent tags in TX). David McDavid Acura accepted an insurance card, but that was around 2004. The Crown Vic probably has an immobilizer; you might see if you can get them to cut a plain key blank without the chip, then get a locksmith to clone your existing chip to a new key. At least that way the locksmith has a fresh key to copy.
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Feb 11, 2020 16:39
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shy boy from chess club posted:Have you looked on amazon at radios and batteries yet? Theyre reeaaal cheap, I can get you some links if you want, first ones on me No, I haven't. Mainly, I'm not actually sure what to look for - haven't done the research, so links actually would be appreciated if you have them handy. NitroSpazzz posted:You guys are not helping me resist the urge QFT STR posted:I took the purchase receipt from the dealer; a registration receipt or title would also work. Make sure you have your ID. Thanks. quote:The Crown Vic probably has an immobilizer; you might see if you can get them to cut a plain key blank without the chip, then get a locksmith to clone your existing chip to a new key. At least that way the locksmith has a fresh key to copy. Nope. Cop car = no chip-key
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Feb 11, 2020 21:40
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Hey pipkin, you remember how you mentioned I should check my TPS, on any Subaru really? Checked it over OBD2 with the engine off before leaving work today. It was maxing out between 84-86% wide open, but 0 without touching the throttle with the engine off, 0.8% with the engine running on a cold start. Tried opening the throttle body slowly by hand with the engine off, and it went to 100% smoothly. The cable has a good bit of slack (enough that I'm worried it might pop out of the butterfly eventually), I was all set to tighten it up a bit. Then noticed something when I went to unplug my OBD2 adapter... Fake edit: damnit to be continued once I get inside, Firefox mobile is being a dick about pasting an imgur link. real edit:   My floormat has the retaining hole for the peg that's normally in the carpet. The carpet, however, doesn't have the plastic peg that's normally there. I don't know if the carpet has been replaced (if it has, it fits exactly like factory carpet) or maybe they just didn't put them in on the early 03s (maybe the floormats are from an 04? they're in fantastic shape for being nearly 18 years old [build date of 5/02]). Or maybe it broke off without a trace somehow?  Putting the floormat back where it goes and stomping the gas (key on/engine off) shows 100%. Driving home, it felt a shitload peppier when I stomped it, and actually wound up right to redline before shifting (instead of ~5500).I'm a dumbass. And I need to figure out a way to secure the floormat better. I might be doing babby's first head gasket job.  Heard water rushing behind the dash when I started it yesterday, so I knew it had developed an air pocket.. found the overflow bone dry. Radiator was full when I pulled the cap at first, but revving it a bit got some bubbles out and the level dropped a bit. Took about 1/4 gallon to top off both the radiator and get the overflow quite a bit over the max line, and the overflow was way down again this morning, but not empty (it was between min and max). I do smell coolant sometimes at idle (coming in via the HVAC, and I can smell it outside of the car), I'll be loving thrilled if the radiator is just letting go instead of head gaskets. Price of admission to the EJ club I guess. Though for what I paid for it, if I get a year out of it it won't owe me a drat thing.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 16:10
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Haha Ive had the floormat problem before. When I adjusted my TPS I did it with it running at idle and just turned it slowly until the engine settled to the best idle since I got it. I didnt use any tools to do it (besides the screwdriver). Since then the trans has shifted at like 3k 1-2 shift, 3.5k 2-3 and 3 for the 3-4 and the shifts are great. The 2-3 is still meh but its way better and the occasional flaring has gone away completely. Besides cleaning all the grounds its the best thing Ive done to my car so far.
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Mar 1, 2020 16:21
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Gettin stuff done on the 03 Im selling. New Air filter Timing belt Belts Hoses Oil change Trans filter(s) and fluid Coolant All 4 brakes/rotors Rear struts/springs Major interior cleanup    It had mostly new brakes, pads and rotors but holy gently caress the caliper guide pins were all so hosed besides the driver rear that I still fixed. They all got new grease/boots after cleaning them all up real good with a wire wheel. I also cleaned the bracket where the pads slide, it was all such a mess. I took the left rear wheel bearing out and put it back in since there was nothing wrong with it and I think its the same case with the right side. All the noise was the brakes being super hosed. All the pads were so rust jack jammed in the slides, so bad. I made a video with a perfect example of how bad they were https://youtu.be/mIbmbxPIg0U After all that Im going to buff the paint and make it look as good as I can. Oh yea and replace all the interior lights since it has a ton and only one works lol
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Mar 2, 2020 23:27
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Polish those headlights man. They don't look that bad when you first look at them, but they're a crappy enough design (when new) that even a tiny bit of haze really destroys the light output. They basically turned the single-bulb Legacy housing into a dual-bulb housing for the Legacy GT/Outback, and it was a hack at best. HF has a solid drill-style polishing kit for ~$15. Yours are way worse than mine were (though I eventually wound up going the JDM HID route); they were like having flashlights taped to the hood, Roadkill style. Aim them too; there's a long 7mm bolt sticking out of them for up/down. A ratcheting GM side post battery wrench works perfect (it's a SAE 9/16 wrench IIRC, but it's close enough that it works). There's a left/right screw under a plastic cap too, but you shouldn't need to touch that unless the apron took a hit. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Mar 3, 2020 |
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Mar 3, 2020 17:01
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STR posted:there's a long 7mm bolt sticking out of them for up/down. A ratcheting GM side post battery wrench works perfect (it's a SAE 9/16 wrench IIRC, but it's close enough that it works). There's a left/right screw under a plastic cap too, but you shouldn't need to touch that unless the apron took a hit. You mean 9/32”. 9/16” is between 14 and 15mm.
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Mar 3, 2020 19:27
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STR posted:Polish those headlights man. They don't look that bad when you first look at them, but they're a crappy enough design (when new) that even a tiny bit of haze really destroys the light output. They basically turned the single-bulb Legacy housing into a dual-bulb housing for the Legacy GT/Outback, and it was a hack at best. HF has a solid drill-style polishing kit for ~$15. Oh yep Im going to do the headlights too. I tried a little of the medium cut on a spot and it worked well so Ill do medium, light then polish and they should look pretty good. Ive got a 5" DA that I use and it works good on the paint and lights. If they need more pressure Ill try the drill style next. I just finished the pass side rear strut and brake so paint/headlights is next then when kastein gets back probably hit up the you pick near his house for an alt and some cosmetic stuff like the cargo area carpet and plastic threshold thats beyond hosed with paint and plaster.
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Mar 3, 2020 20:46
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Darchangel posted:You mean 9/32”. 9/16” is between 14 and 15mm. The only thing I remember using a 9/32 for is old 80s/90s GM interior bolts. I think there were probably 10-15 9/32 sockets dropped into inaccessible places in my 87 Z28
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Mar 3, 2020 20:50
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shy boy from chess club posted:The only thing I remember using a 9/32 for is old 80s/90s GM interior bolts. I think there were probably 10-15 9/32 sockets dropped into inaccessible places in my 87 Z28 That's exactly why I know 9/32 and 7mm are the same, but also the side-post battery terminals that STR was talking about. I've used both for, well, both. I used to do mobile electronics, and dealt with a lot of '90s GMs. I even have a drawer in my screw organizer marked "GM screws" for the small collection I amassed. Thank God they started putting T10s in them as well.
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Mar 3, 2020 22:35
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Side posts are 5/16 or the two are really close maybe
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Mar 3, 2020 22:39
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shy boy from chess club posted:Side posts are 5/16 or the two are really close maybe 5/16" is 8mm, and you're right, I think. Not sure why I thought the terminals were 7mm.
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Mar 3, 2020 23:08
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Fixed up some surface rust on the subframe and stuff in the back with rust converter. Tomorrow I'll paint it with the black implement paint. I kinda want to keep this car after all this work. I couldn't turn my back on Dave though since I'm a sentimental guy and has taken me on so many adventures. Plus I like the way that gen looks more.  This car has lsd as well. Going to change the diff fluid and all the maintenance will be done. I hope it goes to a good owner, it deserves it.
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Mar 4, 2020 02:38
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Don't forget I might have a spare alt for you, too. I'm not sure where it would be but I'm looking for it when I dig through parts piles.
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Mar 4, 2020 07:14
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shy boy from chess club posted:Oh yep Im going to do the headlights too. I tried a little of the medium cut on a spot and it worked well so Ill do medium, light then polish and they should look pretty good. Ive got a 5" DA that I use and it works good on the paint and lights. If they need more pressure Ill try the drill style next. Mine weren't nearly as bad, but it still took a good 20 minutes per side with the drill style.   It made enough of a difference that people started flipping me off and brake checking me when I'd come up behind them. My rear springs are sagging bad enough that they were pointed at the sky, and I didn't even realize it until I went to work that night.  (I aimed them a bit lower the next day)
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Mar 4, 2020 07:40
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Yeah those came out awesome, I'm doing mine plus the paint tomorrow. I finished painting the subframe but forgot the pics in the shop so I'll get them up later. I got the quickstruts in and what a difference. This one was sagging real bad as well but I couldn't tell until now. It has rake that matches the 97 and the camber on the rear wheels is gone. Looking forward to the test drive with the new brakes and struts, it's gonna be a whole different car. Same with the trans with the new filters and fluid, should run like a champ. Might head up Friday Ken if you're going to be around and we can hit up sams as well. I need a junkyard fix.
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Mar 5, 2020 02:15
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I should be around... I might be heading to the hangar later in the day, you're welcome to come there too if so. Hoping to get the fuel and electrical done on my truck.
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Mar 5, 2020 05:51
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kastein posted:I should be around... I might be heading to the hangar later in the day, you're welcome to come there too if so. Hoping to get the fuel and electrical done on my truck. It might be Saturday now, my buddy with the Vette kart is bringing it over today and if he calls out of work tomorrow we'll be working on it. He never gets time off from work so Im hoping he can, if not Ill text you. Tried the heavy cut on one headlight for about 30 seconds just now and holy crap I may be able to get them to look new with all 3 stages Left  Right 
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Mar 5, 2020 19:19
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The paint is coming out great on the Outback and then a wild Vette cart appears   I'll post details later
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Mar 6, 2020 04:43
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Owns. Just happy to see a wild Vette cart.
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Mar 6, 2020 22:30
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Getting the Outback as shiny as I can, this is the first cut with about a medium     The headlights are coming out real good  Pulling the kart in, it sounds loving ridiculous. Started with an oil change and when I pulled the plug it felt lovely like it was galling and some of the threads were messed up so we went and got a new drain plug while it drained. Go to put the new one in and noticed it has been heli-coiled poorly. The new plug went in kinda ok but wouldnt seal and leaked pretty bad. Its full of brand new Royal Purple so I cleaned out a drain pan to save it and just now when I pulled the plug it loosened then all the threads exploded and it fell out. gently caress the PO for leaving it like that. It has the LS6 "batwing" oil pan and we cant find just the bottom piece and a whole new pan is like $350-400 so Im going to bring the batwing to the machine shop on Monday to see what they can do. Anyway, listen to this thing, it rules https://youtu.be/kCt8vicvTKI
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Mar 6, 2020 23:48
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Your OBW's rear suspension is in better shape than mine. Mine's sagging enough that the rear wheels have a little bit of camber to them. ... no rust on mine though, aside from where something knocked a bit of paint off of the tailgate (looks like something fell on it at some point). Love that color combo. So I hammered it around a turn on my way home, fully expecting it to slog down into 2nd and slowwwwwwly accelerate. Nope, dropped into 1st immediately and took off like a rocket (relatively speaking). loving floormat was keeping it from downshifting this whole time?! 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 15:56
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Yea the quickstruts fixed the rear instantly, mine were cambered in as well. I thought the bushings were no good but they are fine it was just the worn springs. Jacked the kart up to put ramps on the back as well. Whats body roll? 
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Mar 7, 2020 19:59
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Oh, that's after quick struts? Looks good then. That's the height I'm hoping to get - and I thought every bushing in the back of mine was bad too. Still kinda think they are, but kinda suspect it's just because it's basically lowered because of the sagging springs. It sounds like a dorm bed with an orgy going on anytime I drive it.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 20:16
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My friend just ended up getting a whole pan and we took the batwing from it and put it on the car, fixed that problem. Changed the tranny and diff oil, diff oil was black so that was worth a change and the trans now shifts better, the trans fluid looked fine but it must have been wasted or the wrong stuff. The next thing I wanted to fix was the battery location and connections. They just moved it to the passenger side floor and shittlily bolted lovely cables to the cars cables that were shittily attached to the battery. Then they shittily zip tied the underhood fuse panel, harnesses and vacuum reservoir all together behind a pretty lovely aluminum panel and sheet metal screwed it to the frame in the front and door pillar in the back. I forgot to take pics of the before of the battery and panel but here is what it kinda looked like after I moved the battery back to the stock location to see if that would work   I cleaned up the area and removed unneeded things like the vacuum res and cowl drain and got an idea of where I wanted the fuse box  I welded a bar to the bracket for the coolant tank to make a bracket to put the fuse box onto   I also went over the welds or lack thereof on the coolant tank bracket to make it stronger then added stock to attach the fuse box to  How it is right now, good penetration but wire speed was a little high so Im gonna do some more grinding so it looks better then Ill paint everything  Im trying to figure out the best way to attach the fuse box to the bracket so it looks good and is serviceable. Once Im happy with that mounting Im going to make another bracket that will go to the mounting hole on the box to the panel to triangulate it all and make it a lot stronger. I still have to do some more modifying of the panel and Im also going to wrap all the exposed harness wires and cover them with a second panel that Ill have to make. Ill remember to get more pictures for the next post so this might make more sense. I also have to find the blinker wires and get some put on the front somewhere. I have a C5 blinker harness but I think I found where they cut the connector off. Speaking of that another thing Im going to do this year is insulate all the places the hacks just cut the wires out that they didnt need, I dont know how there hasnt been massive shorting yet. Next year when I have more time Im going to take all the harnesses out of the car and remove all the unneeded wires and do it the right way. Whoever worked on this one previously was an rear end in a top hat hack
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Mar 12, 2020 00:14
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Finished the bracket for the fuse box. I ended up making a plate thats screwed to the box that has three threaded holes to bolt it to the coolant tank/fuse box bracket    The screws don't go very far into the plastic since I cut them shorter so they don't touch any metal inside and make it a really bad day. Because of that the box moves around more than I'm happy with so I'm going to make a small bracket to attach the bottom where the frame runs under it to a conveniently located ground stud. Got a bunch more to do, he brought over a catch can today, finish modifying the panel under the battery, blinkers, mount tail lights with not zip ties, license plate bracket and lights, insulate cut harness and make a plate to cover the ECU and wiring at the front of the passenger foot well
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Mar 14, 2020 01:59
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Getting the blinkers working took some persistence. Firstly I got lucky and my buddy bought a dash to put back in and it included the hazard lights switch so I knew right away thats why nothing happened when trying to use the blinkers. I found the cut wires where the connector to the switch was and connected all the wires directly to the switch. It didnt work but it did get me a little further as the hazard switch buzzed when pressed. I went through and checked each wire according to the schematic and figured out that the ground wire it was connected to was no good, hooked up the ground and now its clicking! Fast with no load but working, sweet. Still no blinkers at the tail lights but then I was able to find where they were supposed to be hooked up at the connector from the wiring harness. The way it was wired was a huge hacked up mess. Shittily crimped bullet connectors, spade connectors and spade connectors with wires twisted around them insulated with masking tape. I hate the person that did this. All the poo poo I stripped from the harness  Clusterfuck  Connections to the lights   I ripped out the entire rear wiring harness past the rear connector which was the last place the wiring diagram matched anything. Used mostly stock wires from the mess to pare it down to just what I needed, tails, brake, blinkers and reverse lights and put connectors on both the lights and used the stock wiring connector to plug it into the car. Now all the wire colors match the wiring diagram for a C5 so if anyone else has to mess with it it will make complete sense.      The stray wires are for the license plate lights that I havent completed at this point. I wrapped the entire thing in cloth tape and removed the zip ties as I went along. Now you can barely see the wiring, Im kicking myself for not taking a before picture     I then used some L stock to make a mount for the license plate, welded it to the piping and painted it black. Put a connector on the harness to the LED/plate bolts    It was just hanging from 2 white zip ties when I got it So now it has blinkers, tails, brake and reverse lights. Unfortunately since the C5 has all reds the blinker on the opposite side comes on with the brake lights but I can fix that next year when I do the entire cars wire harness and get rid of all the mess. Its way better already
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Mar 20, 2020 00:55
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That’s some very nice and tidy wiring work!
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Mar 20, 2020 02:20
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I don't know if I've ever seen one of those 'karts' that isn't a total hackjob. At least you're on the way to saving this one.
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Mar 20, 2020 02:37
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Thanks guys. I love this kind of work, Im one of the crazy ones that likes electrical I guess. It is tedious at first but once I have a plan it goes by quick. The mechanical stuff on this car seems to be done really well and they used good parts so its worth the effort to organize the last 10% thats 90% of the work
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Mar 20, 2020 15:55
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Vette Kart going home, sounds awesome and is so loud goddam https://youtu.be/wnr4r4fvsss
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Mar 24, 2020 23:11
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Took the 03 for a long test drive today to the car wash and gas station and man what a honey of a car. It's got 283k on it and it runs and drives like it's sub 100. No rattles or squeaks and the suspension and steering feel brand new. It's blowing my mind. The engine has the most power of any that I've driven and the trans is unreal good shifting fast and sharp, I don't get it with the mileage it has but I'm surely not complaining. I'm really, really considering keeping it but then I don't know what to do with Dave, I just can't give up on the old man and I'm way attached to it. I'm probably going to ask for more than I was planning for it and hope someone will overlook the mileage and just come drive it. With the assload of maintenance I just did and the way it drives it's going to sell itself. I know the engine was replaced before my uncle got it but I've got no proof and that sucks cause it seems like a real low mileage one. Only one speaker was working so I put the Alpine I got out of the Jetta in and still only have one speaker. Probably going to check for some deals on crutchfield. Oh yea lost the only key I had for it yesterday and spent all afternoon trying to cut one. I luckily took a full pic of the key when I drilled the cat face so I got 6 blanks to try making a new one. I dremeled and filed and measured for hours but no luck until I found the key in the shop floor. So relieved since it also had the fob for the keyless entry/remote start and the cheapest I could find a replacement was $50. Of course every model but mine can be had for 10-20 bucks.     I also finally replaced the headlight/ blinker/horn switch on the posty bike. I've had the part for like 3 years but I was dreading pulling the harness through the handlebar but it turned out to be not too bad. The headlight bulb for these is a pita part to get so I got 2 and I installed a voltage regulator but they still blow after 30 seconds or so. For now I put on one of the led bars I had hanging around. It flickers at low rpms (ac current) but clears up off idle. I then found an LED store and ordered bulbs for the headlight, tail/brake and blinkers which should be a nice upgrade since the blinkers and brake light put quite a draw on the electrical system especially at low rpms. Went for a ride yesterday after fixing the switch and adding the LED   I hadn't started it in months and it started no choke on one kick. I love that bike so much. Wish I could say the same about my other Honda but I did order another carbs rebuild kit and new throttle cables and try once again to get that thing to fuckin run right someday
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Apr 10, 2020 02:36
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That's a lovely check engine light you have there.  Mine was on long enough that someone had tape over it at one point. Tape was gone when I got it, but the residue is still there. (and all it needed was the O2 sensor..  )
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Apr 10, 2020 03:42
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It's off now, bad knock sensor and swapped out with a junkyard pocket item
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Apr 10, 2020 07:46
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Wait, it actually threw a code for the knock sensor? I'm used to the Nissan approach - on an NA motor (at least, 90s stuff), it throws a code, but doesn't actually trip the light (or fail smog). I had no idea my Altima had a bad knock sensor until I pulled codes. Then got an ebay sensor for $20 vs the $300+ from the dealer.... then quickly learned why it was $20. It pulled timing so loving hard that I couldn't get past about 60 WOT in 3rd (couldn't maintain 60 in 4th or 5th), when that car could normally bury the 120 mph speedometer so hard that it would almost wrap back to 0 (on a closed track in Mexico, obviously). I wound up just unplugging it on the Altima, and it went back to being able to do illegal speeds in Mexico. Still no CEL, passed smog fine (we do OBD2 checks here). That car was stupid quick for what it was. It didn't get up to speed in a hurry (it was a truck engine that Nissan halfassed into a Bluebird, FFS - it was all low end power), but it didn't fall flat on its face once you hit 5th either. I'm sure the shorter final drive gearbox it eventually wound up with helped more than a bit (1st was burnout city after the swap). I'm super jealous of the transmission you described.... my Brokeback is sloppy as hell, especially once you've driven more than 30 minutes. I'm hoping the new radiator helps a bit, the old one was so nasty (and very, very clogged, you couldn't even see fins on much of it). I need to get under it and figure out why it suddenly started pissing 10x more ATF than usual too, I may be pulling the pan soon. It looks like either the pan or tailshaft seal, from an armchair look. I've been pulling codes just from paranoia on the Brokeback every few days. I've seen an occasional pending evap - small leak code, but it hasn't ever been there long enough to trip the CEL. It has the original gas cap from 2002 (early 03 model, built 5/02), gonna just start there first. It has no rust, so hopefully it's not the filler neck.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 08:42
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