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I’m still working on this thing. It's been 7 years. It’s getting closer than ever to running. 1995 Nissan 240SX. Used to be an auto. Installed: 1994 Ford/Lincoln 4.6 32V V8. It’s been rebuilt, with a port and polish. Continental oil pan/pickup - front sump. Slightly notched. 2007 Mustang GT 5 Speed (Tremec TR-3650, hydraulic slave cylinder) Aluminum custom driveshaft from Coleman racing - http://www.colemanracing.com/Driveshaft-Aluminum-3-1310-P3854.aspx ACT 14.4lb Flywheel Exedy Stage 1 clutch. S14 Clutch pedal, master. Yaris brake booster 255LPH fuel pump/sock New fuel tank (old one sprung a leak) Tien springs on Koni Yellows Get the drat thing to fire: Engine/drivetrain: Finish fuel lines Vacuum system/lines Install O2 sensors / extend cabling as required Make intake assembly Install starter Oil dipstick Throttle cable connector Extend TPS sensor wiring Remove Ford anti-theft from the ECU Fuel filter Electrical: Wire fuel pump Starter relay Momentary switch ECU power Fuel pump wiring To get this thing driveable on the road: Engine Build an exhaust Install radiator Radiator hoses Electrical: Re-wire entire drat car. New head light assemblies Body: Finish repair of driver’s side floorpan around the seat area Re-fabricate radiator support Install driver’s seat Bleed brakes Bleed clutch Track ready: Roll Fenders Racing seat Accusump Tires Font lug studs Electric power steering Z32 brakes/calipers installed Cage when I can It would be nice: New paint! Wrar fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Oct 20, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 17:29
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We need some photos.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:13
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Its only been 7 years?!
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Sep 13, 2019 07:20
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Dang, I remember when you started on this. 
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Sep 13, 2019 20:45
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Suburban Dad posted:Dang, I remember when you started on this. ditto. we're old.
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Sep 13, 2019 21:06
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A photo retrospective to today:                                                
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Sep 13, 2019 21:46
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And now, a bracket! Its not done yet, but we're getting there. I can see why Binky has taken so long, brackets are time consuming. I've also reached out to an ebay seller to remove the security from the ECU. 
Wrar fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Sep 15, 2019 |
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Sep 15, 2019 01:41
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I am still at it. I have finished a very ugly throttle cable bracket. I will take pictures at some point when I remember to. I am working on retaining the cable to the throttle body now.
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Sep 25, 2019 03:29
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I sent the ECU off to Florida to have the key security disabled. The guy stated he can probably get it to do whatever I need it to. Since I'm using it with basically the same engine it's way cheaper than a cheap standalone, even a Megasquirt. While I was in Atlanta, and had to run about an hour south, I figured I'd stop by at Summit and get some needed goodies:  I also got the proper clutch line fittings from Ford. Right now I have a bleeder device attached, but I don't think leaving it on is the best idea.  I finished the bracket, and also the retention clip for the throttle ferrule.   I've also spent some time organizing the garage, which was all I could get done last week because the flu kicked my rear end for 3 days. It was frustrating because the weather was perfect. This week isn't starting off much better from a time/ability standpoint. I stopped working today at 930 at night. Yesterday I changed the oil in the Outback and made fajitas for the week.    That's better:  I really should go through all the bins and organize them further, but I need to sweep/use the shopvac and get the metal dust, shavings and grass bits off the floor. Maybe tomorrow.
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Oct 16, 2019 04:15
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I have rules lawyered myself into another project I have to work on. However, it is not for me. My wife is getting a 2001 Miata. The timing is screwed up, but has minimal rust and will cost me $1100 to purchase. I also just got the ECU for the 4.6 back. 96-98 Cobra IMRC delete tune with every auto transmission and accessory monitoring flag removed, idle bumped slightly because of the light flywheel and an 6800 RPM redline. I hope I can dry fire it soon, but my wife just came down with something so I'm adjusting my priorities accordingly.
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Oct 23, 2019 04:01
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4.6's always sounded real good in the SN95 and New Edge Mustangs. I wonder what the character of the car will feel like once its driveable. Did you say in the previous thread how much weight gain you're looking at on the nose? Its an aluminum block 4.6 vs the iron block/aluminum head ka24 right?
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Oct 23, 2019 16:03
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Yup, Teksid aluminum block. It should be close to zero because I've ditched the aircon, the engine is very close to the firewall, and I'm using an electric power steering unit from a Versa instead of the hydraulic setup, which will be in the cabin. The KA is not a light engine at around 370lbs. The only real disadvantage weight wise is that I am going to fight a higher COG. On the upshot I'll be doubling my power, and the rest of the drivetrain is either the sameish (transmission) or lighter in the case of the new driveshaft and flywheel.
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Oct 24, 2019 03:50
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A NEW CONTENDER ENTERS, ON BEHALF OF MY WIFE. It doesn't have spark for some reason. Hope I can get it running this weekend.
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Oct 26, 2019 19:36
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NB coils are notoriously lovely I do believe.
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Oct 26, 2019 21:38
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Only time my NB didn't have spark was when I finished a timing belt job with the crank trigger wheel on backwards - it has something like a 2mm dish to it.
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Oct 27, 2019 03:29
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Suburban Dad posted:NB coils are notoriously lovely I do believe. the coil near plugs are fine, it's the cam sensors that are notoriously lovely on NBs
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Oct 27, 2019 05:42
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I replaced the cam sensor, no joy. I suspect the PO failed on the timing belt job.
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Oct 27, 2019 12:50
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If they made the same mistake I did, it's a pretty quick fix 
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Oct 27, 2019 15:03
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IIRC you said there was no rpm signal to the tachometer, no fuel and no spark, right? Did the PO ever get it to run after doing the timing belt, did he do the timing belt because it wasn't working?
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Oct 27, 2019 21:49
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I don't have the full details on that, just that it was running recently. Iirc he stated it was running but it stopped. But correct, I don't see fuel (95% sure) or spark (100%), and the tach is dead. I didn't spend a ton of money on the car, as the PO didn't have any time to work on it.
Wrar fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 27, 2019 |
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Oct 27, 2019 23:25
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Yeah maybe it is the same thing IOC did. Here's hoping, at least.
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Oct 27, 2019 23:38
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What I did couldn't possibly have resulted in it not running without him taking it apart in the middle of it - though it's certainly possible that the crank position sensor itself took a poo poo.
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Oct 28, 2019 00:28
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Cleaned and re-gapped the crank sensor. No joy. Either the timing trigger wheel is on backwards, the crank sensor is dead or the timing is botched. I should get a new sensor in the mail today.
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Oct 30, 2019 12:50
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Haha photos tomorrow but the timing belt job on the Miata was hilariously botched. I can spin the crank but the cams stay put. The teeth on the belt near the crank are f u c k e d.
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Nov 2, 2019 04:07
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Hooray for non interference engines
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Nov 2, 2019 15:16
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Suburban Dad posted:Hooray for non interference engines Are later Miata vvt engines interference?
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Nov 2, 2019 18:41
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Coredump posted:Are later Miata vvt engines interference? Supposedly only during certain RPM ranges.
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Nov 2, 2019 18:47
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The belt is totally hosed. I'm not sure how this is possible. The crank pulley was rust-welded on, so I've given the surfaces a good polish with 150 grit because it was an absolute dick to get off. I've popped the crank bolt loose so I can attempt to knock this out tomorrow. 
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Nov 2, 2019 21:10
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I don't understand cars well. Is the problem with the Miata that that belt thing is broken, so when you turn the key, the belt won't transfer any power between those gears and so the engine won't start running?
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Nov 2, 2019 22:03
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I don't understand cars well. Is the problem with the Miata that that belt thing is broken, so when you turn the key, the belt won't transfer any power between those gears and so the engine won't start running?
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Nov 2, 2019 22:16
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The belt teeth have shorn off somehow. That means the cams won't rotate when the crank does, so the ECU only saw a crank signal, and not a cam signal, so the ECU had no idea what to do. Also, if the cams don't move the combustion cycle can't work.
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Nov 2, 2019 22:16
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Gotcha, thanks for the explanation.
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Nov 2, 2019 23:11
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Have you verified that the cams aren't locked up?
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Nov 2, 2019 23:15
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I have not. I will check once I've removed the carcass of the timing belt.
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Nov 2, 2019 23:31
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This is a campfire-story level of failure, right up there with when Wes diagnosed some guy putting his window switch in upside down made his Intrepid not shut off. I wonder if they tried starting it with the cam lock tool installed or something else insanely difficult to gently caress up. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Nov 3, 2019 |
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Nov 3, 2019 02:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This is a campfire-story level of failure, right up there with when Wes diagnosed some guy putting his window switch in upside down made his Intrepid not shut off.  That was actually the problem?
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Nov 3, 2019 02:33
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Godholio posted:
Yeah, if memory serves doing that allowed the switch to backfeed some part of the ECU which apparently allowed just enough current through to keep everything sort of humming until something would push it just far enough to actually die.
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Nov 3, 2019 02:35
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Godholio posted:
Thats chrysler in a nut shell. There also the company that has a fan fail and kill a truck intermittently. Or has crank sensors that are picky and will only last more then a few months if they aren't OEM.
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Nov 4, 2019 04:20
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Wow that's pretty special looking. I am an idiot when it comes to doing things on cars and I think even I'd realize something was terribly wrong with that. Thanks for the updates and photos. I lurk a lot but it brings me a lot of enjoyment to see people doing things like this.
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Nov 4, 2019 07:28
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Update, pictures later. The cams were not frozen. The exhaust turned pretty freely. There was a ton of oily gunk buildup in the VVT cam assembly, but I cleaned out out pretty well and after a little bit of love popped free. After putting a new belt on I can say that the tensioner was 100% way loose, which is why the belt failed so spectacularly. I found a solid video on timing/tensioning ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m67AFSVzfOw&t=371s ) One trick I did was set the crank indicator at about 355* instead of 0* and this left me with correct timing after the belt tension kicked in through several test rotations. I went to a concert last night instead of buttoning it up, so I'm aiming for a start tonight.
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Nov 4, 2019 17:20
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