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user "I would blow Dane Cook" told me to post in this thread, here's an arcade gamepoo poo POST MALONE posted:Isn't that like the first thing that always happens with the storage compartment door? I also have a HRAP 3 and mine's still on
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2020 08:23 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:07 |
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haha god drat, I've seen people put that rally livery on celicas before but doing it as an explicit callout to neo drift out and using a chevy shitbox is really bizarre
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2020 03:06 |
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here's a poem i wrote about PCB prices in 2020 [05:23PM] <dos> cock head https://www.ebay.com/itm/113806973344 [05:24PM] <dos> idiot https://www.ebay.com/itm/113829043982 [05:24PM] <dos> complete douche https://www.ebay.com/itm/174149987720 [05:25PM] <dos> fuckboy https://www.ebay.com/itm/114053926449 [05:26PM] <dos> aaaaaaghhrghrgh https://www.ebay.com/itm/174146980621
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2020 23:28 |
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XtraSmiley posted:Yeah, that guy always puts his poo poo super high, usually 2-4x going rate, then will sell to you at 25% "off" and tell you it's a deal. I have no idea how people buy from him. I guess if you don't want to wait. yeah he's been around forever except normally he just had mostly trash (and it was still overpriced) now he has a bunch of actually desirable games and you know some idiots are going to buy them and drive up the prices until basically every good game is cavebucks. it's infuriating because he has some stuff I've been looking for for years, pretty much the last few boards I need to never buy a PCB again
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2020 23:41 |
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XtraSmiley posted:Oh poo poo, I guess now you have to post your wants list... The stuff I linked up there plus a few $insane boards like battle bakraid and air gallet (I actually have something along these lines on the way to me thanks to a lucky opportunity), generally hard to find games like kiki kaikai, drift out 94, some other stuff. the multigame options for the more popular systems has really narrowed it down, that stuff is a huge blessing to this hobby. I'm starting to get into CPS1 multi, ST-V multi etc. d0s fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jan 14, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 14, 2020 00:02 |
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as far as cabs I really want original dedicated cabs (or cocktails) of the following games: ladybug cosmic avenger donkey kong turbo simply because those were the first four console games I owned (on colecovision) and what got me into arcade style gaming, and completely influenced how I played/thought about games for the rest of my life. but lol at 1.) finding all of those in good shape and 2.)having that much space/money
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# ¿ Jan 14, 2020 02:02 |
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gently caress that is great, congrats. I want one more cab to compliment my NAC and that's some form of 80's metal cab like an aero, pony II/III, etc. e: also A+ game choice, do you own that board or is it emulated? d0s fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 16, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 15, 2020 23:57 |
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Hatsune Mike posted:I've got the board, it was like $150 on eBay a few years ago. Raimais boards do not pop up very often, but they are not the priciest when they do. yeah it's one of those games that I keep forgetting to look for, same with volfied. I love that era of taito single screen games
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2020 02:27 |
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new pcb day, some frustrating yagawa poo poo I'll never clear
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2020 01:51 |
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MorrisBae posted:I've gotta ask - compared to a traditional arcade cabinet, how's your electric bill with the Arcade 1Up cabinet? Unless I'm misunderstanding something, what he posted is a (really nicely done) custom MAME cabinet, not an arcade 1up cabinet. I just checked with my astro city (typical cab with CRT) and it draws about 95W. His cab would probably be around that plus a typical PC e: I don't think running any single arcade cabinet for personal use would have any meaningful impact on your electric bill, and an arcade 1up cabinet is probably like, whatever a raspberry pi hooked to a lovely LCD consumes d0s fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jan 21, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 21, 2020 06:04 |
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I appreciate the use of a real CRT which is imo the correct way to play old arcade games, so many people who build MAME cabs go with LCDs and it always feels so fake. if it were my cab the only things I would do differently are using a more ergonomic curved button layout for the two main players and using LS-32s in place of the Happ sticks, and Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons (if not already in use, hard to tell) but thats personal preference. it's really goddamn good and kinda tempts me to do something similar with my old SFII dynamo cab
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2020 03:37 |
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Hatsune Mike posted:I recapped the monitor (Toei TC-RM25S) and it has made a world of difference. I've never had a recap help the focus so much. I suspect the heater filament voltage was a pinch low before. Now the tube looks really great. definitely recap your arcade CRTs, you may think you have a nearly shot monitor but unless something is really wrong a recap and calibration will have it looking new. I documented the process of restoring my NAC, including a recap here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/new-astro-city-renewal-log.4662/ If you want a cab and can handle a few days work it might not hurt to get something that looks outwardly worn out (and will save you huge $$$). Japanese cabs are built like tanks and can usually be brought back to a very nice condition with a little elbow grease and electronics repair skills d0s fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 8, 2021 |
# ¿ Jan 24, 2020 02:38 |
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:Your old caps are high quality and any replacements you can find today would be lower quality". Not quite true, unless it's some obscure type of cap that's no longer made by the big names. You can get very high end Japan-made caps on Digi-key and Mouser that are higher quality then anything you could get many years ago when capacitor production was notoriously iffy. Not really sure why he fed you that line unless he was one of those "everything old is automatically better, they don't make em like they used to!" boomers or maybe just doesn't know about ordering high end caps from websites over buying whatever china junk the local shop has. And, well he's a CRT repairman so I guess he might fit that bill Unless it's a crazy rear end chassis recapping it with modern tools would take maybe 45 minutes and isn't that big of a job. I get that it's probably not much in the grand scheme of things to get the result you wanted but $120 to desolder and replace 3 caps is kinda shocking. Before I knew how to solder I paid a guy $50 to completely reflow every connection on my AV-5000 supergun and replace anything tested bad, which was like 5 caps. Again no big deal in the grand scheme of things and the lesson is really: learn soldering and basic electronics troubleshooting because it's very useful. I got into it through this hobby and enjoyed it so much I ended up doing it professionally and now I have a job I enjoy where I use those skills every day instead of being a depressed computer janitor e: though the fact that that guy could do what he does for a living in the 21st century is awesome and more power to him, he's probably a cool dude, and the price might be justified simply because how many other guys out there would even touch a CRT, and be local e2: Shlomo Palestein posted:Not...great machines, but I guess if you need to just test poo poo out, you could do worse? I use a strike gunner STG PCB for testing because it's tiny and that's all it's good for since its barely a game d0s fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jan 24, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 24, 2020 23:40 |
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Erev posted:Hey folks! I've been wanting a cabinet of some sort for years as I've a ton of good memories of arcades and such when I was young. I've been reading through the thread and it is not only awesome but confusing and terrifying for someone with zero electronics skill. I own one main cabinet that I swap boards in. It's very easy to do, but you need to think about the following when you change games: - Screen orientation - Is it a horizontal or vertical game? Unless you have a particular type of cab rotating the monitor is not easy and usually requires two people and partial disassembly of the cab. For this reason my cab is usually dedicated to vertical and I use horizontal boards on a supergun hooked to a PVM. - Power supply voltage - Your boards want exactly 5V and not much more or less from the power supply, but different boards draw different amounts of power so you need to adjust this manually between hardware. Changing games on a Neo-Geo will not require it but going from Neo-Geo to CPS2 (etc) will. There is usually an adjustable potentiometer on arcade power supplies to do this. I like to use a small LED voltmeter, you can also buy premade JAMMA passthrus with voltmeters on them. - Brightness/contrast - Different hardware has different RGB output levels, Arcade cabinets and superguns will have adjustments for this that you will need to tweak. Again like voltage this is mostly per base hardware and not per individual game. - Screen geometry - Different hardware has different overscan/underscan characteristics. This is an easy adjustment on real arcade monitors which allow you to adjust the horizontal and vertical width and size. As far as prices for legit games go, they're loving crazy right now, no two ways around it. However this is also a great time to get into multigame setups, where for a lot of the popular hardware you can use hacks to load every game from an SD card, etc. e: System 16 is a good website to find out what games are on what hardware. From there you can find out what you want to focus on and then search to see if there are any multigame solutions. It would be cool if someone more knowledgeable than me could post a list of what hardware has been hacked and where to learn more if possible. d0s fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 26, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 26, 2020 00:50 |
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hooray for YAJ
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2020 07:00 |
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flyboi posted:Multis to avoid: What's actually wrong with this one? I was sorta considering it. Also I know there is a Naomi solutions(s), any thoughts on those?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2020 01:58 |
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flyboi posted:The chips used are 3.3v and there's no buffering on the bus, ahaha of course. never change, china oh yeah flyboi check #x68k for a sec, had a quick question for you (scroll up a bit)
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2020 06:55 |
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I used to think it was shorthand for "rotate", and passed on that wisdom to dozens of people
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2020 23:48 |
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vintage SA 2002 posting style appropriate for nostalgia subforum
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2020 23:36 |
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nostalgics credit feed and bomb spam because that's what you do when you're 10, when you cling to nostalgia you fail to improve your skill and gain deeper enjoyment which makes the old days always being better a self fulfilling prophecy, this perma-disappointment will damage your brain causing you to buy lots of tacky poo poo to fill the void you should be filling with getting gud
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2020 00:28 |
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katkillad2 posted:Anyone have arcade selling tips? TLDR, I think I've decided to sell my Playchoice 10 countertop. Ebay seems like the easiest way since it weighs less enough it could be shipped through UPS/FedEx, but I'm worried about getting hosed over if someone wants to return it "not as described" and stick me with hundreds in return shipping. Even though I've bought two arcades shipped and paid through F&F paypal without issue from KLOV, I'm still paranoid about getting screwed over myself somehow. Shifting that much money through F&F paypal makes me paranoid. I guess there's trying to sell it locally, but I don't really want randoms coming to my house Don't ship CRTs. That's a hot enough item that you're sure to find a local buyer or one who can arrange their own shipping, absolving you of responsibility. List it on ebay as local pickup only at the price you want and it will sell. e: you're going to get a lot more than $250 for it if it's in good shape
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2020 00:54 |
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KLOV is always really low priced, don't go by what stuff sells for on there. Put it on ebay where the whole world can see it, but let the buyer work out shipping. Some people go crazy for that nintendo stuff, KLOV isn't one of those places. KLOV pays top dollar for early American arcade stuff, but it's a great place to buy (US releases of) Japanese stuff because they don't value it highly (they like dedicated cabs for their mancaves, not stuff that was only released as conversion kits that screwed up original cabs). I pretty much started my PCB collection trawling though their selling pages and got great stuff for peanuts, like most of the 80's Toaplan games e: I know playchoice doesn't really fit that bill but I've never seen them to be too enthusiastic about it, it doesn't really have their 80's camp aesthetic like a satan's hollow cab or whatever d0s fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Feb 18, 2020 |
# ¿ Feb 18, 2020 03:26 |
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making preparations for my latest bout of financial irresponsibility which will be slowly making its way across the ocean
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2020 00:56 |
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Pana buttons look similar but they're pretty different, the ones in my post are Seimitsu PS-14 snap in buttons with a flat top and black rim which I believe are the standard buttons on early Japanese MVS cabinets (all I know for sure is that the MVS cab buttons were flat, not convex and had a black rim) and also on some Sigma superguns. The Pana has some long discontinued black-rimed variant of Sanwa OBSN screw-in buttons which are convex. They feel a lot nicer than the ubiquitous OBSFs which I can't stand. Now back in the day Sanwa also made screw buttons with a flat top similar to the Seimitsu PS-14s, but these are also discontinued. These are the buttons that Aero City panels (and probably a lot of other 80's Japanese cabs) originally came with. My Sanwa Pasoko-1000 has a snap-in variant of the same flat topped buttons. Right now it's typical to use PS-14s to restore early metal MVS cabinets because they're the only thing that looks correct when compared with the original advertisements and they were definitely used in later plastic MVS cabinets, but I wonder if those flat Sanwa screw buttons were what was originally used, since it seems like cab manufacturers really favored screw buttons until the late 90's or so. I've never seen the underside of a confirmed unmolested early SNK panel to know for sure. It's an extremely thing to care about e: btw you're going to love the Pana Twin, it's a great supergun. Try and lower the joysticks a bit with spacers or something as they screw the LS-32s in directly to the enclosure which makes them sit kinda high (unless you're into that sort of thing). With LS-32 the ball should be 16.5mm from the panel surface (take the ball and dust washer off to measure): e2: so this manual for an SNK Candy 26 shows the start buttons as being PS-14-D (24mm version of PS-14-G), it makes no mention of the panel buttons because they're not built onto the cab itself but it's safe to assume they were PS-14-G or more likely the discontinued PS-14-GX with the high quality Omron switches, mystery solved. but now I'm wondering what the hell a Candy 26 is, I always thought that was the table version of the Candy 25 e3: Wrong again, the 30mm buttons are Omron XW6Z, which seem similar but not identical to PS-14-GX d0s fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Feb 28, 2020 |
# ¿ Feb 28, 2020 03:42 |
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Pastry of the Year posted:I was thinking about WWF Wrestlefest this morning for some reason, and it got me wondering: that game is basically designed to be impossible to beat without feeding it credits, right? It's a technos arcade game, so yes. They have a weird talent for making very fun games that also kinda screw you over and make it impossible to clear on one credit with skill alone. See: V'ball, Combatribes, probably others e: also I should mention that their games just blatantly ask you for more money to keep playing rather than making the rank brutal. idk how wrestlefest is in that regard. many arcade games will kill you if you straight up don't die, but not to the point of a game over from full lives (the rank lowers after death). there's a whole science to managing rank by dying at the right time and its not just applied to obvious poo poo like yagawa games d0s fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Feb 28, 2020 |
# ¿ Feb 28, 2020 18:10 |
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Received one of my grail PCBs the other day, Drift Out '94. I know it's kind of a weird thing to have as a grail but it is genuinely hard to find, and I've loved the series since first playing Neo Drift Out at a Fuddruckers as a kid. It plays very differently to Neo as it's slower and more deliberate but I find it more deep and satisfying, and it's actually better looking than Neo despite being two years older because it's on the powerful SSV hardware (a cool system to explore in MAME if you're bored). Superdeadite has a good video about this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOpVHt_H05Q I've been looking for this drat thing for like a decade and finally found it for sale on klov from darksoft for like $100, hadn't even checked that forum in ages but mentioning it here reminded me it existed
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2020 02:10 |
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I would blow Dane Cook posted:This reminds me of a game that I've been trying to find for ages. It was a top down racing game likes the ones above but it had a message on the screen during the attract mode saying something to the effect that the game's developers had decided not to show the French flag as a form of protest against the French nuclear testing program. Are you sure that's not a computer game? I checked in MAME for all racing game released around 1995 when those protests were happening and don't see anything like that, not even in Blomby Car which seemed like the obvious choice e: Hatsune Mike posted:Oh hey this happened over the weekend That's loving cool and lol at Japan hoarding scoring glitches d0s fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Mar 3, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 3, 2020 00:27 |
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Anyone do any ROM hacking? I recently got a Star Force PCB and because it's early Tehkan the screen is flipped the wrong way with no DIP switch to correct it. The same problem exists with Bomb Jack which is on similar hardware but a dude called invzim has hacked it to flip normally (after one round is played upside-down). That hacked ROM can be found here. I have it on my Bomb Jack PCB and it works as advertised. I was born without whatever gene makes programming intuitive so I contacted invzim but he's running his own business now and doesn't have the time, totally understandable. He pointed me at this and said it's possible though: https://github.com/mamedev/mame/blob/master/src/mame/drivers/senjyo.cpp#L48 Can one of you brainlords tell me if this is a simple task a beginner could do or something that's going to require actual skill and effort?
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2020 02:31 |
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Thanks but I realized I have the encrypted boardset so even if I do it I couldn't burn it back to an EEPROM and actually use it on my hardware e: I'm just gonna build a yoke flip switch
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2020 14:37 |
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katkillad2 posted:I'd like to own a red tent some day Same, but I wish it wasn't so associated with the Vs. System, would have been cooler if it was just Nintendo's universal cab and they had made single sided ones so it wouldn't be too weird to just put whatever board in em. I just don't find the idea of NES games in the arcade too interesting but it's such a good looking cab
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2020 01:59 |
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I believe it, even in pre-SF2 days. 1942 cabs were everywhere going into the early 90's and that's a game from 1984 that had not only been superseded by other companies' better vertical shooters but by Capcom's own sequels. Yet 1942 became pretty much synonymous with vertical shooter in the US. I could never even figure out why, even as a kid I learned to ignore it after a few boring credits in favor of the thankfully also ubiquitous Sky Shark, Twin Cobra, and Raiden. The closest convenience store to me back then had a single cab that actually got converted through those three games in that order, let's take a moment to appreciate Romstar, the distributor responsible for flooding our 7-11s and laundromats with these inexpensive conversion games. On a depressing note, I wonder how many little game centers in Japan that were already holding on for dear life are going to be decimated by coronavirus, because holy poo poo I can't think of a worse place to go in a pandemic than an arcade. d0s fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Mar 19, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 19, 2020 07:24 |
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Gynovore posted:A lot of 'arcades' in Asia are essentially gambling dens. The people there are addicted. They won't stop. Yeah but I'm not talking about fish game dens and pachinko parlors, which will do fine forever, I'm referring to the places where you go to play normal video games and particularly older games in CRT cabinets which are already a dying breed in Japan apart from really well known places like HEY and Mikado or boring chain style places like Round 1 and Taito Station. I guess the equivalent would be like the little mall arcades we had in the US in the 80's and 90s, only they've somehow lasted up to now. A lot of them are independent or family owned. Some of them do feature gambling type games but they're pachislot machines, mahjong or 8-liners and I don't believe they pay out real money/stuff exchangeable for money like a dedicated pachinko parlor and are typically on a different floor/room, and they're a very small minority of true game centers. A really famous and excellent place called Try just closed their retro floor a couple years ago, here's a pic I took when I was there soon before it shut down: Some other pics of small game centers I took during trips, grimy old japanese arcades are my favorite place: d0s fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Mar 19, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 19, 2020 20:48 |
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Gynovore posted:That was trippy seeing games like 1943 in modern cabinets. And yeah, it's a shame that they're all gonna die. Even before the pandemic, I'm guessing they were on shaky ground already. Yeah in good arcades in Japan you can find really old games in somewhat modern cabs. Most of those pictured are Astro Citys from the mid 90's, 1943 would have been in cabs like this or cocktail tables in Japan originally (from the mid-late 80's): They never really did the whole dedicated cabinet thing for sticks+buttons games there, instead opting for universal cabinets. They're really comfortable to use compared to what we got here and the controls are actually good and precise which makes going back to playing on US cabs miserable
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2020 21:15 |
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flyboi posted:The one I really wanted to see was the neo-tokyo themed arcade but it unfortunately closed recently. Yeah over two trips I kept meaning to go but was always "ehh it's so out of the way" each time, and now it's gone lol e: for what it's worth I heard the game selection was not great but still looked like a cool experience
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2020 22:53 |
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holy poo poo I just checked that thread on klov and it's so bad. also I don't particularly see a price crash ahead, or maybe just for boomer things like "golden age" dedicated cabs and pinball (so, klov target audience). PCBs can be shipped easily and most people who want them already have some cabs or a supergun to play them on, and stable non-customer facing/work from homeable jobs in industries not facing decimation by this virus. there may be big floods of astro cities and stuff if it really does kill off small japanese arcades but I was talking to a friend who lives there who goes to a small arcade daily to play some rhythm game that gives out waifu cards and he said it's still full of people and Japan doesn't seem hard hit by this thing, so who knows anyway here's some klov wisdom (posted today) DO NOT FOLLOW ANY OF THIS ADVICE quote:Im taking this about as serious as i did the swine flu that happened under obama..you know, when this happened: d0s fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Mar 20, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 20, 2020 02:50 |
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:Don't post this poo poo here what the gently caress is wrong with you? ??? I was posting it to laugh at dude, chill e: made that clearer
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2020 03:09 |
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I don't remember what version it was but way back in the day I ordered a unibios and it came packed in a box of matches, with the matches still inside. 4.0 has such a classy looking interface, perfect neo-geo baller aesthetic
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2020 22:37 |
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I would blow Dane Cook posted:Just get a real MVS carts you filthy poors.
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# ¿ Mar 26, 2020 01:36 |
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maybe I'm just too much of an arcade nerd but I never liked the AES too much, and I actually owned one in the early 2000s along with a bunch of games. Playing neo-geo games as home console games feels wrong for some reason, like it just makes you want a real cab to play them in. The inflated price for the exact same thing in pretty packaging is also a big turnoff, but I guess now with flash carts that's not a huge deal. I sold that AES and games for what would be peanuts today and bought a car. e: I like how it's instantly obvious when you're looking at a circuit board from The Dark Times. Good luck, d0s fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Mar 26, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 26, 2020 23:07 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:07 |
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sounds like a megalo or Pony 40 sauroid CAVII arena sight e: here's what I think is a western design, circus maximus: Not a projection screen but I remember seeing this dynamo cab a lot: Another western rear projector, I think an arcade by me had giga wing in one of these, it ruled: d0s fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Mar 28, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 28, 2020 00:17 |