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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





cakesmith handyman posted:

First questions: what do I do about breathable membrane under the floor structure? The membrane from the walls will get tucked and (stainless steel)stapled to the underside of the floor timbers, is the bottom of the floor just left open?

Similar area: the bottom of the floor timbers will be about 50mm from ground level. What do I fill that gap with to stop leaves, critters and cold air blowing under without wicking moisture up to the frame?

Iím no professional but have owned a number of sheds and I thought that you wanted to leave the bottom open in order to allow air to circulate and prevent condensation/rot.
I donít think critters will spend much time under there if it is open; or you could just put mesh round it to keep them and leaves out.
You can just lay insulation boards/material/carpet on the inside of the floor to prevent cold feet. Though I suspect that carpet or a good rug and some shoes/slippers will work well. You have to walk across the garden to get to it - so surely most shed use will involve the wearing of shoes and thus floor insulation doesnít matter that much?

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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





cakesmith handyman posted:

Money!:

Tanelised 47x150mm for roof & floor, £360ish
Regular old 38x89 " 2"x4" " for walls, £410ish
18mm OSB3 for floor/roof, about £27 a sheet, 9mm for walls, about £18 a sheet, total £410ish
12 ground screws, installation tool and delivery, £450ish
9mm plasterboard, 15 sheets, about £110ish
EPDM for roof, 4.5x3m kit approx £150 inc adhesive

Open to negotiations still:
75mm insulation, recticel cheapest I've seen is about £36 a sheet, EPS half that. Looking like £720 ish to do a decent job. Recommendations welcome.

I need some 25mm foam board for the landrover and have been trying to find the cheapest place to buy it from. Specialist insulation suppliers seem way cheaper than any builders merchants are - once you buy enough to lose the extra delivery costs.
I believe that Recticel is actually manufactured very near to your house! - I don't know why this doesn't make it really cheap and easy to get?


cakesmith handyman posted:

Services: I'll get mains power to this via trench, it'll have its own 20A panel inside with seperate light and power circuits. Enough to run a bunch of lights and a sewing machine etc. Hoping the Wifi stretches this far, else the router will get rehomed closer to this corner of the building.

Definitely run some cat5 because having poo poo wifi in the shed is incredibly annoying!
I would also run a length or two of 6 core alarm cable out to there so you can install a PIR/door sensor and add it to your house alarm.
I only did one alarm cable run to my garage and wish i had put 2 in so that I could put a keypad out there too as I keep forgetting to disarm it and having to run back to the house!

When you buy the mains cable, for short distances like your shed run it is cheaper to buy armoured cable per-meter off an ebay seller than to buy a whole big roll from screwfix.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Should power and ethernet be run in the same conduit? if it can be I'll do so, it's just the price of a roll of cable.

Technically it shouldn't be run together without some separation but for the short distance you are looking at and for running one computer/one home AP on it then it will work perfectly well. I
approx how many metres of ethernet cable do you need? I can probably sort you out to save you a few quid!

Tomarse fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Nov 8, 2019

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





cakesmith handyman posted:

2 shielded conduits doesn't sound expensive, I only need 6m length plus whatever depth x 2. Sounds a reasonable suggestion.
You can use armoured cable and just bury it without any conduit and with "caution" tape above it (this is how the streetlight outside my house was done via my garden but without the warning tape)

You can get armoured cat5 too (I'll see if i can get you any - 10-20m lengths are basically scrap!)

quote:

Although they are a mile away they don't sell to the public, I rang and asked and they don't have seconds to sell cheap out the back door either. Nearest stockist is B&Q who are the most expensive. I do have actionclad about 20 miles away, I'll drop in one day after work and see what they have, there are also a few companies that sell pallets of ends and off cuts, that'd be 1m lengths generally. I can live with foaming 2 pieces together if it's half the price. That's if I can't get a cheap quote for spray foam.
I found this place to be the cheapest when i bought mine 18 months ago - https://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/recticel-eurothane-gp-insulation-board.
for 50mm they are £22/sheet vs B&Q's £32 and delivery will either cost you £30 or be free. so 3 boards or more and they are cheaper and it will just turn up at your house vs you having to get it home.

quote:

I also thought I had a bargain of a 4'x8' window (just slightly too tall but workable for the price) and the seller broke the glass when he went to check... ...that the glass was all intact
I can do you some metal frame single glazed windows for free if you are interested? (they are in my parents garden and there's an assortment of sizes available!)

Have you tried visiting any proper independent double glazing suppliers and asking them what odd spare stuff they have in the yard that they want rid of? Years ago I had to go get a replacement top window with my dad and the place we went to had a yard full of odd sized/spares and slightly damaged UPVC windows, and a skip full of stuff they had taken out which we dug around in with a tape measure to get the window we wanted. Will ask if he remembers where it was. I'm sure i've had to transport a UPVC door for a mate from a similar establishment too.
Look for the places that have an industrial unit in the shitter part of town (yeah, that's most of it..!) rather than a "showroom" (eg https://potterieswindows.co.uk who appear to operate from a proper lovely industrial unit in burslem)

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





I have an electric cement mixer if you want to borrow it. It makes it loads easier to do a proper mix.

I assume you plan on getting it dug out and the hardcore down next? I can drive it over and swap it for my wacker once you have the hardcore done if you like (I only need the wacker here to redo the base under some slabs).

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





I forgot to check this thread for a few weeks... This looks awesome! nice work!

You shouldn't worry about any small imperfections like your roof bubbles. You cant see them in the aerial shot!

I'm pretty sure 99% of the projects I have ever completed also have imperfections in them somewhere as do pretty much all of the bits of work I have actually paid professionals to do on/in my house or vehicle

You should make your porch roof full width so as to give a space beside the door for you to lean stuff up or hang stuff or leave shoes outside without having to trip over them

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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr





Yay! Progress!

Having attempted plastering in my house I would advise just putting filler over the screw heads and then painting everything...

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