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SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005


I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!




Fallen Rib

A few months back someone recommended me a 2 TB WD Sata SSD drive. I want to say thank you to the person who suggested that because it has changed my computing life for the better. I "only" have about 500 gigs worth of games (with loving Doom 2016 accounting for like 70 gigs of that). Being able to install all the games I ever wanted to play on my SSD and not having to worry about shuffling them between my 4tb HDD and whatever has been great. Thank you!

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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...

Fallen Rib

sean10mm posted:

Depending on how many storage devices you hope to eventually plug in at once you *might* actually want an x570 motherboard instead of a B450. For instance they often start disabling SATA ports as you add M.2 devices to a B450.

I *think* B450 also maxes out at 64 GB, while x570 goes up to 128 if you think that could be a future concern since you're already looking at wanting 64 GB.

Cool. Thanks for the info... good to know about disabling SATA as you add M.2. Chances are, I'll be on 1x M.2 and 2-3x SATA maximum.

What's a decent X570 board? MicroATX or ATX, doesn't' matter, as I've got a big full-tower P280 case. Intel Gig-E is apparently an issue, because half the boards have Realtek LAN

Sniep
Mar 28, 2004

All I needed was that fatty blunt...



King of Breakfast


Fun Shoe

KirbyKhan posted:

I bought a dvdrw drive out of instinct. My teenage and young adult muscle memory possessed my hands and put a DVDRW drive in my shopping cart like it was the most natural thing in the world. My eyeballs scrolled down the feature lists of the LG vs ASUS models. I compared speeds, evaluated write times and remembered the suites of software some of the bundles came with. Only now, after my order shiped, that I see the old DVDRW drive installed in my machine.

Soon I will have two of them. I think I get why my childhood olds who insisted on having a VHS player forever.

And youíre not even able to rip blu rays

KirbyKhan
Mar 20, 2009




Soiled Meat

I bet on HDDVDs and burried those porn discs respectfully in the woods with my player. The cycle of life continues.

I will never forsake my bootleg DVD collection. My library is the finest movies released before 2011.

Jamie Faith
Jan 13, 2020

Y2K girl


OK so I think I'm going with the "NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 2080 TI FOUNDERS EDITION" ($1200) for my graphics card.

Any reason not to go with the RTX 2080 ti besides the price?

Jamie Faith fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 27, 2020

Sniep
Mar 28, 2004

All I needed was that fatty blunt...



King of Breakfast


Fun Shoe

KirbyKhan posted:

I bet on HDDVDs and burried those porn discs respectfully in the woods with my player. The cycle of life continues.

I will never forsake my bootleg DVD collection. My library is the finest movies released before 2011.

i have an obscene hobby of collecting + ripping blu rays to a NAS with a plex server

i'm the world's 1 dude that exists that has an entirely legal plex library lol

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012






Fabulousity posted:

It's up to you how to go about building it. You can plug the CPU and RAM into the motherboard and try starting it up with everything sitting on the desk first, but make sure the motherboard is sitting on a clean, non-conductive surface - If in doubt set it on top of the anti-static bag and foam block it was packed with. With the B450 Tomahawk there is a group of error indicator LEDs just above the ATX power connector. With the CPU and RAM in if you power it up you'll be looking for the "no video" LED to turn on, or if you did install a video card for this test then you'll want to see the "no boot device" LED turn on. If you get one of those expected errors then you should be good to go. If you get some other error like no CPU, no RAM, or no power up at all then it's troubleshooting happy fun time.
Thanks so much for encouraging me to do this... because I think my PSU might be DOA. It's a Corsair RM650.

Connected it to the mobo (both the 24-pin and CPU one), nothing. Tried swapping out the power cable (the one that plugs in the wall), nothing. Tried different outlets, nothing. So finally I tried the paperclip test... and still nothing, fan won't spin when I flip the switch.

Anything else y'all can think to try before I send this fucker back? I'm really glad I didn't waste time putting this in the case!

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


sharkytm posted:

What's a decent X570 board? MicroATX or ATX, doesn't' matter, as I've got a big full-tower P280 case. Intel Gig-E is apparently an issue, because half the boards have Realtek LAN

The Gigabyte X570 Gaming X is frequently put forth as the best low-cost X570, in that it has a great VRM for the price and all the essentials. But it's got a realtek lan. If intel lan is required the Aorus Elite is the next step higher and has that.

(Personally I think the realtek wired lan is generally fine. I have had plenty of problems with their audio and realtek wifi over the years, but plain old ethernet is so simple even realtek can't gently caress it up too badly. This might change if you actually use gigabit speeds on your lan because you have a NAS or something, I don't have one so I rarely stress it too hard.)

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




If the paperclip test doesn't get a PSU to spin up that fucker is dead and there's nothing to do about it.

E: I've never tested my pieces outside of a case before completing the build before. It seems like a good idea and a good way to try and figure out what (if any) parts arrived DOA. However I'm scared of powering up eletronics that are just sitting on some motherboard foam packaging, somebody assuage my stupid fears.

Agent355 fucked around with this message at 23:38 on May 27, 2020

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012






Agent355 posted:

If the paperclip test doesn't get a PSU to spin up that fucker is dead and there's nothing to do about it.
Welp, I'm glad it's not something stupid I'm missing... Guess an RMA it is.

stump collector
May 28, 2007

g4ndh1's edpi was 69, requiring an incredible 420cm to turn the other cheek

SalTheBard posted:

A few months back someone recommended me a 2 TB WD Sata SSD drive. I want to say thank you to the person who suggested that because it has changed my computing life for the better. I "only" have about 500 gigs worth of games (with loving Doom 2016 accounting for like 70 gigs of that). Being able to install all the games I ever wanted to play on my SSD and not having to worry about shuffling them between my 4tb HDD and whatever has been great. Thank you!

I'm going to need a 2tb drive soon if I keep playing some of the new titles. I installed modern cod:mw warfare about six months ago and it was 120gb. I played it for the first time since installing a couple nights ago and noticed it swelled to 185gb

Lmao

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




I'm seriously considering doing a all in one liquid cooler just for the novelty of it. I know it's not required or anything but considering I'd already buy a regular cpu cooler + some case fans I could just replace both with an all in one an it'd only be 50 bucks more or something.

It's probably entirely wasteful but they're so pretty.

E: when considering maintaining a positive pressure environment you should count the radiator as an air intake right? It's still going to be sucking air into the system even if the radiator is blocking alot of the airflow?

I guess if the radiator is doing all the CPU cooling then I could bottom mount a fan for the GPU if I needed and then have just a single exhaust fan at the back/top and that'd probably be fine. I probably shouldn't be too terribly concerned with maintaining optimal neutral/positive pressure.

Agent355 fucked around with this message at 00:35 on May 28, 2020

Mistikman
Jan 21, 2001

I was born ready. I'm Ron Fucking Swanson.

Jamie Faith posted:

OK so I think I'm going with the "NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 2080 TI FOUNDERS EDITION" ($1200) for my graphics card.

Any reason not to go with the RTX 2080 ti besides the price?

Hey there bad financial decisions buddy.

I just ordered one too, it's a bad value that will drop in price and be replaced as the king of consumer cards in probably less than 6 months.

The price:performance is miles away from a 2080 Super, but at this exact moment in time, if money is no object and you are ok having something that becomes obsolete in less than 6 months, that you will be very lucky to get half price for at that time, then yes it's the best money can buy without going to absurd crazy poo poo like a Titan.

My plan is that when the 3080 Ti drops, I'll sell my 2080 Ti and use the proceeds to subsidize the upgrade, but this is very foolish financially, and if this is your plan, you should understand this is not a responsible financial decision.

Jamie Faith
Jan 13, 2020

Y2K girl


Mistikman posted:

Hey there bad financial decisions buddy.

I just ordered one too, it's a bad value that will drop in price and be replaced as the king of consumer cards in probably less than 6 months.

The price:performance is miles away from a 2080 Super, but at this exact moment in time, if money is no object and you are ok having something that becomes obsolete in less than 6 months, that you will be very lucky to get half price for at that time, then yes it's the best money can buy without going to absurd crazy poo poo like a Titan.

My plan is that when the 3080 Ti drops, I'll sell my 2080 Ti and use the proceeds to subsidize the upgrade, but this is very foolish financially, and if this is your plan, you should understand this is not a responsible financial decision.

Lol funny thing is, I just saw a bunch of Redditors talking about how this graphics card would be king for YEARS! (granted that thread was like 6 months old) That's what I get for taking Reddit's advice.

Is there a graphics card that's super powerful and won't be obsolete for a long time? Or is that a complete fools errand at this point?

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




It's always been a fool's errand. The next best card is never more than a few months out.

You just have to realize that 'best' means some super tiny 1% upgrade every few months. It will take years to be actually noticeably aging, buy a top end card of your choosing and be happy. Personally I don't feel good spending more than like 500 bux on a GPU, because at that point you'll pay hundreds of dollars premium for tiny little advantages. But you have to make up your own mind at what point the dollar value is most optimal.

But to re-iterate there is never any card that will be 'the best' for very long, but you can be 'very good' for years.

Thirst Mutilator
Dec 13, 2008


Fools errand. Rumor is that the 30xx series of cards will be announced this year, and expectations are that they'll be a big step up from current 20xx cards. Even if they aren't, the 2080 Ti will likely drop resale price when they come out even if their MSRP doesn't, and/or some midrange card in the new series will be nearly as performant for less than the 2080 Ti's street price. Future proofing for a "long time" just isn't a thing you can do.

Jamie Faith
Jan 13, 2020

Y2K girl


Agent355 posted:

But to re-iterate there is never any card that will be 'the best' for very long, but you can be 'very good' for years.

Yeah, that's what I meant. I don't need my PC to be the world's greatest PC of all time. Just want it to be a badass that renders whatever I throw at it with minimal hassle.

I'm still using the PC I built in 2014. It's running on GTX 760 and it's still using Windows 7! lol I waited as long as possible (it took windows 7 expiring for me to start shopping for parts lol) before I decided to upgrade and if I am going to upgrade, I want the best I can get so it'll last me a long time.

I'm not into upgrading individual parts every other month or whatever. Whatever I build, that'll be my PC until 2025 atleast.

Mistikman
Jan 21, 2001

I was born ready. I'm Ron Fucking Swanson.

Jamie Faith posted:

Lol funny thing is, I just saw a bunch of Redditors talking about how this graphics card would be king for YEARS! (granted that thread was like 6 months old) That's what I get for taking Reddit's advice.

Is there a graphics card that's super powerful and won't be obsolete for a long time? Or is that a complete fools errand at this point?

A 2080 Ti will be relevant for YEARS.

A 1080 (non Ti) is still relevant and moderately powerful today, and that came out May of 2016. Admittedly, the 10 series was REALLY amazing when it came out, and the 1080 Ti was released about a year later in March 2017, but it's not a weak card today, 3 years later.

If you want something that is powerful now, and will be absolutely functional and reasonably powerful 3 years from now, while also not being a hilarious money sink, go for a 2080 Super. The Super can be had around $700, and it is only slightly weaker than the 2080 Ti, which starts at $1100.

Or, the smartest move, if you have a card that's "good enough" for now, is to wait. AMD and Nvidia are almost certainly both going to drop new cards this year, and that will drive down the price of existing 2080 cards, and provide stronger cards at hopefully similar price points. Yes, you can always wait to get a better value later, but we are getting really close to a large shift in the value proposition, and that's one of the best times to buy in in terms of price:performance.

EDIT:

Jamie Faith posted:

Yeah, that's what I meant. I don't need my PC to be the world's greatest PC of all time. Just want it to be a badass that renders whatever I throw at it with minimal hassle.

I'm still using the PC I built in 2014. It's running on GTX 760 and it's still using Windows 7! lol I waited as long as possible (it took windows 7 expiring for me to start shopping for parts lol) before I decided to upgrade and if I am going to upgrade, I want the best I can get so it'll last me a long time.

I'm not into upgrading individual parts every other month or whatever. Whatever I build, that'll be my PC until 2025 atleast.

To suggest the best card for you, we will need to know what kind of games you usually play, what resolution you play at, and what framerate your monitor is capable of. If you play strategy or indie games on a 1080p 60hz monitor, then any modern card in the $300-400 range will have you good for years. If you play competitive shooters or lots of AAA games with tons of eye candy and have a 2k 144hz monitor, you might want to go a lot beefier than that if you want it to still be relevant in 5 years.

5 years is a LONG time in terms of computer hardware. Also, you should probably understand nvidia's naming conventions for their cards.

XXYY (Ti/Super)

XX = Generation, yours is a generation 7
YY = Tier, yours is a 60. The cards usually have 50, 60, 70, 80, with 80 being top of the line.
The Ti cards are the performance version of that tier, generally much faster than the non Ti.
Super is a new thing with the 16 and 20 series, since they refreshed those series with replacement cards that were only slightly more expensive, but a lot more powerful. The Super versions fall somewhere between normal and Ti.

If you were to get a modern card at the same level as your old one, that would be a 2060, which for any games that even still play on your 760 would just blow you away in terms of performance. A 2080 Ti would let you use a 2k 144hz monitor and turn every setting to maximum in any game that exists right now, and barring other bottlenecks, you would likely never see the framerate drop below 60, while spending most of the time at 100+.

Mistikman fucked around with this message at 01:02 on May 28, 2020

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Been a real streak of DOA stuff lately ITT, I'm wondering if it's a coincidence or if something fucky is going on like places turning around returns for a second try.



Agent355 posted:

I'm seriously considering doing a all in one liquid cooler just for the novelty of it. I know it's not required or anything but considering I'd already buy a regular cpu cooler + some case fans I could just replace both with an all in one an it'd only be 50 bucks more or something.

It's probably entirely wasteful but they're so pretty.

If you get an AIO liquid cooler definitely don't cheap out. Like if that $50 extra is being added to the cost of a $30 Hyper 212, that's not great. If it's added to a $60 noctua U12 that's better.

I generally think AIOs are a bad buy compared to high end air coolers that last forever, but they're not strictly worse or anything.

Agent355
Jul 26, 2011




I'm kinda treating this new PC as a bit of blissful wasteful spending (within reason for my budget irl) and hobby building, since every PC I've made before this has been dealing with a strict budget limit and me trying to maximize the value of every part.

I kind of like the aesthetic of a mostly empty PC without a big ole air cooler in the middle of the case but I realize this is more of a way to spend money on an unimportant thing rather than an actual way to get more power out of a PC.

I was thinking of an AIO like this 120mm RGB one but I might buy a bigger 240mm radiator version just because it would fit the aesthetics of the case better and be more balanced. I'm big on quiet PCs too but I think a quality air cooler vs a quality AIO can both be nice and quiet.

My real hesitation is coming from the slightly increased cost and also an unfamiliarity with the parts.

Agent355 fucked around with this message at 01:11 on May 28, 2020

Kerosene19
May 7, 2007



Dinosaur Gum

Agent355 posted:

The next best card is never more than a few months out.

MX to GTS to GTX to RTXÖÖ

In my experience the question is what do you want to live with for the lifespan of your builds? How long do you usually go until a refresh? For me itís somewhere between 3-4 years.

My last build (4670k/970) lasted me a good long while and while it wasnít on the bleeding edge of performance it was still handling AAA titles without much of an issue. I just handed it off this morning to an old friend whoís in late stage cancer and wants to relive some of his better days of real dirt track racing online with his racing bros.

I started on this one right as covid was kicking off so I didnít have many issues with supply and shipping delays.



I donít think I would be trying to start a new build now though. Carts are bare!

Wangsbig
May 27, 2007



would this motherboard be okay for a 3700x? I've got the unfortunate curse of the mATX case

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...

Fallen Rib

Klyith posted:

The Gigabyte X570 Gaming X is frequently put forth as the best low-cost X570, in that it has a great VRM for the price and all the essentials. But it's got a realtek lan. If intel lan is required the Aorus Elite is the next step higher and has that.

(Personally I think the realtek wired lan is generally fine. I have had plenty of problems with their audio and realtek wifi over the years, but plain old ethernet is so simple even realtek can't gently caress it up too badly. This might change if you actually use gigabit speeds on your lan because you have a NAS or something, I don't have one so I rarely stress it too hard.)

I'm regularly pushing gigabit speeds to my NAS or other local machines.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Lucca Blight
Jun 2, 2009


USA, by the way.
Been putting off upgrading my CPU for awhile now, but it seems more and more often I'm having some issue relating to it throttling the rest of my system so I'm thinking of making the plunge.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BD4sFG The problem part being my i5-4590 at the very least

Used a couple recommended parts and seems like I can get away with keeping some parts of my current set up:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PMY9Zf
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($167.00 @ Walmart)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($87.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Total: $743.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-27 21:43 EDT-0400

Unless there is a cheaper option to squeezing a little more life out of my current mobo and RAM? The thing that makes me hesitant is that the straw that broke the camel's back was that I'm having game breaking performance on the night map of Hunt: Showdown. Most other games run fine so I'm feeling a little silly dropping over $500 just to get a single game working better.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Wangsbig posted:

would this motherboard be okay for a 3700x? I've got the unfortunate curse of the mATX case

No, for a 3700X that's in a PC that does games or real work, do not get any motherboard that doesn't at least have heatsinks on the VRM.

Decent MATX B450 motherboards, best to worst order:
ASRock B450M PRO4
Gigabyte B450 AORUS M
MSI B450M PRO-VDH Max
Gigabyte B450M DS3H / Asus TUF B450M-PLUS

Or wait until B550 if you can, the average quality of B550 is expected to be a bit better than B450 and we probably won't see a major OEM like asus being quiet so cut-rate as their B450s are.

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Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

= (Displacement through a hetero medium) / Time


Nap Ghost

Agent355 posted:

E: I've never tested my pieces outside of a case before completing the build before. It seems like a good idea and a good way to try and figure out what (if any) parts arrived DOA. However I'm scared of powering up eletronics that are just sitting on some motherboard foam packaging, somebody assuage my stupid fears.

I don't think powering stuff up on the desk is bad for the hardware but it does leave things more vulnerable to the universe's general chaos: You might accidentally spill a drink on it, a wayward cat might jump on the board, it might fall off the desk, if you're mounting clip-on heatsink hardware and something slips because the motherboard is just free floating instead of secured in a case. Alternately you can also leave the case on it's side, secure the motherboard with the centering post and single screw, then just sloppily wire stuff up for an initial POST. If it works then install the rest of the screws and then start fretting about cable routing.

Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 02:08 on May 28, 2020

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