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Spacedad
Sep 11, 2001

We go play orbital catch around the curvature of the earth, son.

sean10mm posted:

Every once in a while somebody remembers my old workout posting haha

For a SSD I would go with WD SN550 for basic or SN750 or 8200 Pro if you want something with sexier benchmarks, but for most uses most SSDs are just going to seem fast as hell regardless.

PCIe 4.0 is kind of just not really doing anything right now, but if you have the budget there's nothing wrong with going X570 or B550 to get the new hotness. I'm probably using an Asus Rog Strix B550-F Gaming when I get around to my next build but it's definitely not necessary vs a B450.

From what it looks like, the asus x570 tuf gaming board you folks had me order seems to be out of stock a lot for a reason. Seems to be an affordable favorite board that happens to x570.

The mini-itx tuf board also seems to be quite popular.

Also, I really need to learn my way around motherboards more. That and power supplies.

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Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

It's not a big deal but I don't like the tiny fan on the X570 boards. I read that those small fans can just get louder and louder over the years. I'd just wait for more B550 boards to come in stock if you really need PCIE4.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


sean10mm posted:

OK, I decided to go full stupid with this just for fun and still couldn't hit $3k. Guess my tastes are too plebeian lol

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 3.5 GHz 16-Core Processor ($689.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($81.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard ($286.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($144.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 4.0 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($429.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card ($729.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.89 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($209.83 @ Amazon)
Total: $2723.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-30 14:50 EDT-0400

Important notes, even if you want to go XTREME:

Don't actually splurge on a megabux video card now when the RTX 30xx is supposedly around the corner and ~rumored to be~ much better.
Don't actually splurge on a PCIe 4.0 4x M.2 SSD right now, they don't actually do anything yet IRL except do a bit better in synthetic benchmarks. I mean literally don't do this, get an SN750 or 8200 Pro or something. In theory future models of PCIe 4.0 M.2 SSD might actually do something more significant with the theoretical bandwidth advantage, but right now it's literally just showing off that you got the new thing.

Only thing I'd say is, more RAM. When you're dealing with large videos, you could probably benefit from 64GB, but otherwise, I'm in total agreement, a 3950X is the way to go if you need maximum power without throwing crazy money at a editing/rendering box

Mu Zeta posted:

It's not a big deal but I don't like the tiny fan on the X570 boards. I read that those small fans can just get louder and louder over the years. I'd just wait for more B550 boards to come in stock if you really need PCIE4.

In my opinion, it is something to be mindful of. I'd avoid chipset fans if at all possible

School Nickname
Apr 23, 2010

*fffffff-fffaaaaaaarrrtt*


Soiled Meat

Hi guys, gonna cave in and buy a fancy 32-34" monitor, maybe 1440p/144Hz. I'm sick of my dual 24" setup, mainly because I have so many chat windows open in EVE, I can barely see any space on my 24" monitor. Here is my current build.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (£134.87 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler (£81.00 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard (£132.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (£59.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (£59.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£66.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£83.94 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Dual Video Card (£265.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£85.00)
Total: £969.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-01 11:35 BST+0100

Would a 3700X + 2080 Super be adequate as an upgrade? Will I get away with a 2080S as opposed to a 2080Ti? Old CPU + card would go to my brother, so he has the option of upgrading our home media server (He bought his parts with my future upgrade in mind...)

Things I am also aware of are the fact I have 3200Mhz RAM (ryzen likes faster), but it shouldn't matter much if I have 32GB ram, right? Also, how much of a pain in the rear end is a bios flashback? I'm aware I would have to update the bios for the B450 tomahawk. Should I just wait a year or so for the new Ryzen series, a new rig and handmedown the whole thing?

School Nickname fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Aug 1, 2020

Zeta Acosta
Dec 16, 2019




Hi friends, this is my current pc

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430
GPU: AMD R7 260x
HDD: WD Blue 1TB
RAM: HyperX Fury DDR3 1866 C10 2x4GB
MBD: MSI H81M-E33 (MS-7817)

I want to spend 400 dollars, what would you do? I want gaming pc specs

Toxic Fart Syndrome
Jul 2, 2006

*hits A-THREAD-5*

Only 3.6 Roentgoons per hour ... not great, not terrible.




...the meter only goes to 3.6...



Pork Pro

Zeta Acosta posted:

Hi friends, this is my current pc

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430
GPU: AMD R7 260x
HDD: WD Blue 1TB
RAM: HyperX Fury DDR3 1866 C10 2x4GB
MBD: MSI H81M-E33 (MS-7817)

I want to spend 400 dollars, what would you do? I want gaming pc specs

Is that a platter or an SSD? If you haven't upgraded to a solid state drive, that will be the single, biggest performance increase.

I'd use the rest of the money on the GPU. You're mobo/ram are getting long in the tooth, but you would use up that budget just changing out the CPU/Mobo/RAM, and then you'll still be left with a 6-year-old GPU (and possibly a platter drive?).

Integrated graphics is an option, and someone smarter could probably make a whole rig on that budget, though...

Zeta Acosta
Dec 16, 2019




Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

Is that a platter or an SSD? If you haven't upgraded to a solid state drive, that will be the single, biggest performance increase.

I'd use the rest of the money on the GPU. You're mobo/ram are getting long in the tooth, but you would use up that budget just changing out the CPU/Mobo/RAM, and then you'll still be left with a 6-year-old GPU (and possibly a platter drive?).

Integrated graphics is an option, and someone smarter could probably make a whole rig on that budget, though...

platter

i need the best configuration to upgrade the card and add more ram with my current processor and motherboard

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Zeta Acosta posted:

I want to spend 400 dollars, what would you do? I want gaming pc specs

What does "gaming pc specs" mean to you? What do you want to play, at what resolution and framerate? What monitor are you using?

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Zeta Acosta posted:

I want to spend 400 dollars, what would you do? I want gaming pc specs

Here's what I would do:
$170 on a 1650 Super GPU
$100 on a 1TB SSD
save remaining $130 (plus sell the 260 for like $50) towards a CPU+Mobo+ram+PSU rebuild when you can afford a bit more.
play games other than asscreed and battlefield, which are the big two that hate your CPU.


The other way to spend your $400 is on CPU+mobo+ram but keeping the 260x, which will go over budget and not be a great PC. What you get for the $400 is a CPU that does better with some current games that want 8 threads, but is still potentially limiting in the future. And that also means keeping the 260X which is a pretty mediocre GPU now. But this would be the build if you want to go that way:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3100 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($109.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $420


Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

Integrated graphics is an option, and someone smarter could probably make a whole rig on that budget, though...

Nah the iGPU on a 3400G is even worse than a 260x.

Zeta Acosta
Dec 16, 2019




Dr. Fishopolis posted:

What does "gaming pc specs" mean to you? What do you want to play, at what resolution and framerate? What monitor are you using?

i want to play cuberpunk 2977 on november, i have an old vga monitor

Klyith posted:

Here's what I would do:
$170 on a 1650 Super GPU
$100 on a 1TB SSD
save remaining $130 (plus sell the 260 for like $50) towards a CPU+Mobo+ram+PSU rebuild when you can afford a bit more.
play games other than asscreed and battlefield, which are the big two that hate your CPU.


The other way to spend your $400 is on CPU+mobo+ram but keeping the 260x, which will go over budget and not be a great PC. What you get for the $400 is a CPU that does better with some current games that want 8 threads, but is still potentially limiting in the future. And that also means keeping the 260X which is a pretty mediocre GPU now. But this would be the build if you want to go that way:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3100 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($109.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $420


Nah the iGPU on a 3400G is even worse than a 260x.
That processor+card gives me this

Intel Core i5-4430 (Clock speed at 100%) with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER (Clock speed at 100%) x1 will produce 26.73% of bottleneck on 1080p resolution. Everything over 10% is considered as bottleneck.

Also i have 8 gigas of ram right now and i would like to upgrade to 16

Zeta Acosta fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Aug 1, 2020

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


School Nickname posted:

Should I just wait a year or so for the new Ryzen series, a new rig and handmedown the whole thing?

I would wait, but it won't be a year. And you don't have to do a whole new rig. The B450 mobo will support a Ryzen 4000.

Single-generation upgrades on a CPU are not compelling performance for the money, even though you'd be adding 2 more cores with the 3700X. However Eve doesn't need 8 cores unless you multibox like crazy. And a 2080 Super is a really bad purchase right now, it's $700 and the 3000 series will be coming along in a few more months.

School Nickname posted:

Things I am also aware of are the fact I have 3200Mhz RAM (ryzen likes faster), but it shouldn't matter much if I have 32GB ram, right?

3200 vs 3600 is not a difference worth worrying about. Adding another 16GB is fine, but due to hidden changes in the Corsair product scheme you want to buy model CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16 (aka the "for Ryzen" model) for your additional sticks. The current version of the same model that you've got is less likely to work at 3200-C16 when you put 4 sticks in.


School Nickname posted:

Also, how much of a pain in the rear end is a bios flashback? I'm aware I would have to update the bios for the B450 tomahawk.
It's not much of a pain, but also since you have a 2600 right now you don't even need to use the flashback (which is the CPU-less flashing system). You can upgrade the BIOS normally as described in your manual.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Zeta Acosta posted:

i want to play cuberpunk 2977 on november, i have an old vga monitor

Ok, wait for cyperpunk to be closer to launch so we know the system requirements. Your CPU will definitely be within min specs and probably be fine, we'll need to see performance numbers to see if 8GB ram is an issue.

Also amend my previous post to use some of the extra $130 on a new monitor.

Zeta Acosta
Dec 16, 2019




Klyith posted:

Ok, wait for cyperpunk to be closer to launch so we know the system requirements. Your CPU will definitely be within min specs and probably be fine, we'll need to see performance numbers to see if 8GB ram is an issue.

Also amend my previous post to use some of the extra $130 on a new monitor.

thanks

https://es.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-E33/Specification

looking at my moba i can only fit ddr3 rams? thats is one of the things i want to improve, a better card and more ram



also i will buy an ssd

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Zeta Acosta posted:

https://es.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-E33/Specification

looking at my moba i can only fit ddr3 rams? thats is one of the things i want to improve, a better card and more ram



Yes, DDR3 ram only.

But the board only has 2 slots, so upgrading the ram means throwing out the 2 sticks you have now to add 2x8GB sticks.


Zeta Acosta posted:

also i will buy an ssd

it's the best upgrade, SSDs are amazing. You could get a 500GB one to save some money, but 1TB is the sweet spot of GB/$.

Zeta Acosta
Dec 16, 2019




thank you


also whats the difference between this ram

https://www.solotodo.cl/products/11...-dimm-ddr3-1600

and this one

https://www.solotodo.cl/products/65...-dimm-ddr3-1600


except price?


the first one you plug into the ram channels just like the second one, right?

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Zeta Acosta posted:

thank you


also whats the difference between this ram

https://www.solotodo.cl/products/11...-dimm-ddr3-1600

and this one

https://www.solotodo.cl/products/65...-dimm-ddr3-1600


except price?


the first one you plug into the ram channels just like the second one, right?

The Kingston one is CAS11, the corsair is CAS9, meaning it's slightly faster (lower CAS numbers are better). Not worth the much bigger cost though, just grab the kingston one. The heatsinks on ram, especially DDR3 ram, are mostly useless bling just to look cool.

tuyop
Sep 14, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted


Fun Shoe

Zeta Acosta posted:

thanks

https://es.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-E33/Specification

looking at my moba i can only fit ddr3 rams? thats is one of the things i want to improve, a better card and more ram



also i will buy an ssd

I can sell you a couple sticks of 4gb DDR3 if you want. (Donít know if itís ok to sell in this thread, sorry if not!)

Itís just like, shipping from Canada so maybe you donít want.

denereal visease
Nov 27, 2002

chodemaster general


RE: Ryzen RAM Chat, I recently upgraded my 3200mhz kit to a 3800mhz kit and the numbers speak for themselves...
  • Cinebench R20: 4,280 (3200mhz) → 4,830 (3800mhz) 0.02% increase
  • Timepsy 1.2: 9,954 (3200mhz) → 10,064 (3800mhz) 0.01% increase
The 3200mhz kit was running the Fast preset from the Ryzen DRAM Calc utility. I actually saw a performance regression on the 3800mhz kit tweaking it using the same tool and ended up rolling back to the factory DOCP profile. The 3800mhz kit could benefit from some tuning but I have a lot to learn about RAM overclocking.

denereal visease posted:

Dumb/Repeat question: Can I move my existing Windows 10 install, games, etc to a new motherboard without needing to format the drive and reinstall everything?

Klyith posted:

Yes, that generally works these days as long as you aren't doing anything unusual with the storage system (raided drives etc).

You will need to re-activate windows, either by punching in the key again or by tying the license to a MS account.

denereal visease posted:

The only fucky part is that I'd be moving from an ASRock X470 board to an Asus X570 board. Not sure if that will create issues with driver conflicts.

Subjunctive posted:

I went from an ASRock x570 to Aorus X570 without issue, fwiw. You could uninstall the chipset drivers first if you wanted.

Klyith posted:

Nah that'll be fine. These days Win10 can move from intel to AMD and generally handle it if both systems are vaguely modern.
Just wanted to follow up on this to thank Klyith and Subjunctive since I'm still pretty new to this hobby.

I was able to move my "system" from a X470/2600X platform to a X570/3700X with only two tiny snags...
  • Setting BIOS to ignore the CPU Fan speed (was getting 'CPU FAN ERROR' on boot)
  • Installing chipset drivers from USB to get the new board to acknowledge it had WiFi
Really easy fixes in the end.

denereal visease fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Aug 1, 2020

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'



Could use some advice on a cooler to replace stock on Ryzen 3600. Anything sub $100 would be cool.

E: no liquid or RGB needed. Just a fan.

Hot Diggity! fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Aug 1, 2020

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Hot Diggity! posted:

Could use some advice on a cooler to replace stock on Ryzen 3600. Anything sub $100 would be cool.

E: no liquid or RGB needed. Just a fan.

sub-$30 - Deepcool Gammax 400
$30 - Arctic 33 / 34 / 34 CO, CM Hyper 212 evo
$50 - Scythe Mugen 5 rev B when it's in stock
$75 - Noctua NH-U14S, be quiet Dark Rock 4

The cheap ones are very quiet while your PC is idle, but need to kick up to over 1000 RPM when gaming (which still isn't bad, but definitely audible). The $75 ones will be very quiet even at load, assuming your case isn't a hotbox. The mugen is a great price for it's size and ability, on a 3600 will be nearly as good as the more expensive ones.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'



Klyith posted:

sub-$30 - Deepcool Gammax 400
$30 - Arctic 33 / 34 / 34 CO, CM Hyper 212 evo
$50 - Scythe Mugen 5 rev B when it's in stock
$75 - Noctua NH-U14S, be quiet Dark Rock 4

The cheap ones are very quiet while your PC is idle, but need to kick up to over 1000 RPM when gaming (which still isn't bad, but definitely audible). The $75 ones will be very quiet even at load, assuming your case isn't a hotbox. The mugen is a great price for it's size and ability, on a 3600 will be nearly as good as the more expensive ones.

Thanks!

GRECOROMANGRABASS
May 14, 2020


Canuckistan posted:

I have a RX480 GPU, which does most of my 1920x1080/60hz gaming fine. I'm looking at upgrading to 1920x1080/ 144hz for gaming and VR purposes. I guess the current meta is to wait for Ampere to drop sometime in next few months?

I have a system with an early RX480 8GB reference (blower) model and a 1440p 144hz monitor. Honestly, everything I've played has been smooth at reasonable settings. Vulkan based games really haul rear end on the card. I don't know about VR performance, but I think the RX480 will probably surprise you at 1080p/144hz if you're not CPU or memory bottle-necked.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'



Gotta say it cracks me up that the CM Hyper 212 is still one of the better budget options as I had the original model in a build I made in 2012.

Canuckistan
Jan 14, 2004

I'm the greatest thing since World War III.



Soiled Meat

GRECOROMANGRABASS posted:

I have a system with an early RX480 8GB reference (blower) model and a 1440p 144hz monitor. Honestly, everything I've played has been smooth at reasonable settings. Vulkan based games really haul rear end on the card. I don't know about VR performance, but I think the RX480 will probably surprise you at 1080p/144hz if you're not CPU or memory bottle-necked.

Thanks for that. I'm running a ryzen 2600x and 16 gig, so most games are pretty good. Perhaps I'll go for the monitor first and see if my current card can carry things for a while. I have a Rift S VR set, and it auto-defaults to low quality. Still, Half Life Alyx runs smooth so I can't complain too much.

I have to say, I was surprised that the 480 still has a decent after market price. Ebay listings go for roughly $150 Canadian, which is probably 40 percent of what I bought the card for in Dec 2016.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

Only dead doggos
follow the stream.



Hot Diggity! posted:

Gotta say it cracks me up that the CM Hyper 212 is still one of the better budget options as I had the original model in a build I made in 2012.

Coolers kind of just haven't changed that much. I think CM made some minor updates to the 212 at some point but it's basically just "heat pipes and lots of fins"

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'



sean10mm posted:

Coolers kind of just haven't changed that much. I think CM made some minor updates to the 212 at some point but it's basically just "heat pipes and lots of fins"

Ultimately the updated version is what I wound up buying because the old one lasted so long (until April of this year when I built this rig) and worked fine, although I did get the RGB version for a couple bucks more than the non because for slightly louder it cooled better.

Beerdeer
Apr 25, 2006
Big Dick McGee

Just posting here so I can search for my earlier posts

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

Klyith posted:

sub-$30 - Deepcool Gammax 400
$30 - Arctic 33 / 34 / 34 CO, CM Hyper 212 evo
$50 - Scythe Mugen 5 rev B when it's in stock
$75 - Noctua NH-U14S, be quiet Dark Rock 4

The cheap ones are very quiet while your PC is idle, but need to kick up to over 1000 RPM when gaming (which still isn't bad, but definitely audible). The $75 ones will be very quiet even at load, assuming your case isn't a hotbox. The mugen is a great price for it's size and ability, on a 3600 will be nearly as good as the more expensive ones.

What do you think of the Noctua U12S? It's only $3 cheaper than the U14s but it seems to be more popular?

Taima
Dec 31, 2006




What PSU would be a good choice for a future 3080Ti / Zen 3 build? Money is not really an object but I'm not trying to be wasteful either in these trying times.

I've been trying to figure out what to get and it's honestly impossible. Things go in and out of stock, everything seems super inflated in price vs. MSRP. I just want to pick out something nice, that is ideally available (or will be within a week or two) and just be done with it. I'll definitely pay for the best if it's worth it, but not interested in paying scalper prices out of principle more than anything else.

Alchenar
Apr 9, 2008

The level of betrayal I felt when Paradox announced their new wallpaper tore something from me that I'll never be able to recover. They tore away my ability to respect anything, and they tore away my ability to feel human.

sean10mm posted:

Coolers kind of just haven't changed that much. I think CM made some minor updates to the 212 at some point but it's basically just "heat pipes and lots of fins"

Copper is still copper, the laws of heat conduction and convection are well understood. The only things really left to innovate on are the fan and coming up with a surface that doesn't require thermal paste.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

Only dead doggos
follow the stream.



Mu Zeta posted:

What do you think of the Noctua U12S? It's only $3 cheaper than the U14s but it seems to be more popular?

The U12S tests substantially worse than the U14S. Unless the 14S is too tall for your case it's flatly better than the 12S.

Funso Banjo
Dec 22, 2003



So Iíve heard the new consoles are going to be packing ridiculously good gpuís for the money we are expecting to pay for the things.

Are you guys who follow this stuff expecting something to happen in the PC GPU market to give us options at not a massive markup from the consoles? I think remember I could build a comparable performing PC as the newly released PS4 for about $900 (itís a while ago, I may be misremembering) but from the little Iíve heard, there is no chance of doing something similar this time?

Iím in the shopping around for parts phase of creating a new machine, and am looking at a 5700 at the minute, but if holding out 6 months can provide more oomph for a similar price that suits me better.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

Only dead doggos
follow the stream.



Funso Banjo posted:

So I’ve heard the new consoles are going to be packing ridiculously good gpu’s for the money we are expecting to pay for the things.

Are you guys who follow this stuff expecting something to happen in the PC GPU market to give us options at not a massive markup from the consoles? I think remember I could build a comparable performing PC as the newly released PS4 for about $900 (it’s a while ago, I may be misremembering) but from the little I’ve heard, there is no chance of doing something similar this time?

I’m in the shopping around for parts phase of creating a new machine, and am looking at a 5700 at the minute, but if holding out 6 months can provide more oomph for a similar price that suits me better.

This is why everyone here keeps saying to wait for the RTX 3000 series to come out later this year if you're building a serious gaming PC. To match alleged next gen console specs with current gen video cards is stupid expensive.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


Mu Zeta posted:

What do you think of the Noctua U12S? It's only $3 cheaper than the U14s but it seems to be more popular?

The 14 is non-trivially better, but has case clearance issues in smaller cases (165mm height).

The U12 and the Mugen are on par, so if one didn't want to pay for / can't fit the U14, the better answer is save money with mugen.


Funso Banjo posted:

I’m in the shopping around for parts phase of creating a new machine, and am looking at a 5700 at the minute, but if holding out 6 months can provide more oomph for a similar price that suits me better.

We might get that, or we might get more oomph for more price. But also buying a PC on console hype is silly. The first year of a console gen transition always sucks. When the xbone launched people were like "ryse looks amazing, woohoo nextgen!" Who the gently caress remembers Ryse: Son of Rome today?

If you have games right now that your PC isn't cutting the mustard for, a 5700XT is great value (asterisk, drivers). If you are getting by, it's likely that cards by early next year will be hitting that $350 zone with performance upgrades.

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008


Wow this thread moves fast. Just wanted to say that new computer's together, spouse is happy and I'm quite jealous.
Thank you all.

UmOk
Aug 3, 2003


My goons, I am going to build my first PC. Trying to make a semi good gaming machine. I found this "cookie cutter" build on part picker. Do these components look good?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($206.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ B&H)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: *NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($699.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL II-X ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: *Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.75 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing)
Total: $1597.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-01 21:11 EDT-0400

FreeKillB
May 13, 2009


The thing that I can say confidently is that others will recommend saving money by getting a windows 10 key off of SAMart.

It seems that if you are aiming for 'semi-good' then a 2080 super is overkill compared to waiting for the next gen cards but i don't know if you have a particular framerate/resolution to aim for.

UmOk
Aug 3, 2003


FreeKillB posted:

The thing that I can say confidently is that others will recommend saving money by getting a windows 10 key off of SAMart.

It seems that if you are aiming for 'semi-good' then a 2080 super is overkill compared to waiting for the next gen cards but i don't know if you have a particular framerate/resolution to aim for.

I don't. I may stick with the card I have in my current PC until I need to upgrade. Graphics cards are pretty compatible right? That's the impression I got from the OP.

How do you guys mess with cables and stuff? Do you get your parts and decide what you need? Or do the components generally come with that stuff?

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.




UmOk posted:

I don't. I may stick with the card I have in my current PC until I need to upgrade. Graphics cards are pretty compatible right? That's the impression I got from the OP.

How do you guys mess with cables and stuff? Do you get your parts and decide what you need? Or do the components generally come with that stuff?

Everything will come with necessary cables.

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Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


UmOk posted:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($206.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: *NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($699.99 @ Best Buy)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing)

3600X has very little to gain versus a plain 3600. A non-X 3600 and a $30 heatsink plus PBO will have the same clocks at the X and be quieter. Otherwise, a 3700X is a true upgrade over the 3600.

The Crucial P1 is a QLC drive. QLC is fine for average desktop & gaming use, but get slower as the drive gets full. They're IMO best as a secondary drive for like games-only storage. A WD SN550 is a better choice as the system drive. Higher-tier drives like the WD SN750, Inland Premium, Adata SX8200 Pro, or HP EX950 are also only a little more expensive most of the time.

It's not the best time to buy a 2080 Super, since new 3000s will be coming in a few months and your $700 might instantly lose $250 of value.

As FreeKillB says, buying win10 is for suckers. An old 7 or 8 key will work if you have one from a previous PC, or buy a cheap key for $15 in SAmart.

UmOk posted:

How do you guys mess with cables and stuff? Do you get your parts and decide what you need? Or do the components generally come with that stuff?

For the average build that's not doing color-coordinated replacement cables, you don't need any extras. The exceptions are sata drives -- the mobo box generally includes 2 sata cables, so data packrats with many HDDs may need more. And if equipping a case with silly numbers of fans you may want splitters that pass PWM signals.

If you have an old PSU with modular cables, do not reuse them with a new PSU.

Klyith fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Aug 2, 2020

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