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charity rereg
Mar 14, 2019

Can you pay my bills
Can you pay my telephone bills
Can you pay my automo-bills

Huge_Midget posted:

On the topic of cases, is there a go to full tower case that comes with at least six 3.5Ē HDD bays and a modern front I/O panel with USB Type C? It will be an air cooled setup, and if it had a 5.25Ē external bay that would be icing on the cake, but not necessary.

It's this: https://www.newegg.com/black-fracta...N82E16811352089 or one of Fractal's similar but slightly different models (not really sure what the full difference is)

https://www.newegg.com/black-white-...N82E16811854054 if you want to save money and punt on the 5.25"

charity rereg fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Nov 13, 2019

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Whitest Russian
Nov 23, 2013


MikeC posted:

That doesn't quite make sense. We are talking 2016 Doom? The 6600k should crush that game to the tune of 100fps. What kind of stuff are you running in the background? Do you have a lot of bloatware?

It's not really a FPS problem but a frametime problem with a 6600k. It keeps jumping between ~5 and ~20 milliseconds between frames which is annoying.

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

Huge_Midget posted:

On the topic of cases, is there a go to full tower case that comes with at least six 3.5Ē HDD bays and a modern front I/O panel with USB Type C? It will be an air cooled setup, and if it had a 5.25Ē external bay that would be icing on the cake, but not necessary.

The only ones I can think of are the Fractal Define R6, Phanteks Enthoo 719, and maybe the be quiet! Dark Base 900. There aren't a whole lot of cases with Type-C on the front panel and even fewer that support that many 3.5" bays.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Mu Zeta posted:

Yall realize the 2080 ti costs over $1,000 right? Like, just the video card alone.

$1,000.

The Ti cards tend to 'age' better than the lesser cards. People who bought the 1080Ti at launch have gotten just as much value for their money as those who got into 970s at launch, and the 1080Ti never suffered from 0.5GB-Gate.

Before that, people spoke glowingly of their 980Tis, which has 1070-like performance, albeit at higher thermals and the cost of 2GB of buffer.

THF13
Sep 26, 2007

Keep an adversary in the dark about what you're capable of, and he has to assume the worst.


Huge_Midget posted:

On the topic of cases, is there a go to full tower case that comes with at least six 3.5Ē HDD bays and a modern front I/O panel with USB Type C? It will be an air cooled setup, and if it had a 5.25Ē external bay that would be icing on the cake, but not necessary.

Corsair sells an front panel upgrade for the 750d. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...it/p/CC-8900138

They also sell additional hard drive bays if you want more than 6.

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness


Are the dimensions of a "reference" GPU related to other parts like the motherboard or could those conceivably change with a new GPU generation? If a case can fit a reference 2080ti, can I expect it to also fit a reference 3080, 4080 etc... ?

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Slippery Tilde

Incessant Excess posted:

Are the dimensions of a "reference" GPU related to other parts like the motherboard or could those conceivably change with a new GPU generation? If a case can fit a reference 2080ti, can I expect it to also fit a reference 3080, 4080 etc... ?

Not necessarily, no, but in practice, probably. There is a standard width that is generally adhered to, but the card length can be all over the place. In practice though GPU sizes have been fairly constant for years now.

AAAAA! Real Muenster
Jul 12, 2008

My QB is also named Bort



Hi Thread,

I am in the US building a new gaming PC. Someone helped me get this put together near the end of the last thread:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($471.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $1120.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-13 13:48 EST-0500

I upgraded the CPU because I have more room in by budget; I already have my Hard Drive situation sorted so it is absent from that list. I have a few follow up questions, though:
1.) I have maybe another $200 in budget, should I upgrade the graphics card?
2.) There are a staggering number of cases to chose from. I would like a medium sized (easy enough to move if I want to go to the rare LAN but not too small, either) with no lighting on the outside. Anyone have any suggestions or know a good brand to look at?
3.) Do I need any more cooling?

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013
Probation
Can't post for 21 hours!


AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

Hi Thread,

I am in the US building a new gaming PC. Someone helped me get this put together near the end of the last thread:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($471.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $1120.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-13 13:48 EST-0500

I upgraded the CPU because I have more room in by budget; I already have my Hard Drive situation sorted so it is absent from that list. I have a few follow up questions, though:
1.) I have maybe another $200 in budget, should I upgrade the graphics card?
2.) There are a staggering number of cases to chose from. I would like a medium sized (easy enough to move if I want to go to the rare LAN but not too small, either) with no lighting on the outside. Anyone have any suggestions or know a good brand to look at?
3.) Do I need any more cooling?

You've got the most powerful gaming CPU paired with a decidedly mid-range GPU. Use case is gaming, yes? What resolution/refresh rate is your monitor?

AAAAA! Real Muenster
Jul 12, 2008

My QB is also named Bort



ItBreathes posted:

You've got the most powerful gaming CPU paired with a decidedly mid-range GPU. Use case is gaming, yes? What resolution/refresh rate is your monitor?
That is because I did some looking around and that CPU is on sale on Newegg and also Real Good so I upped it from a non-hyper threaded i7.
I have two Dell Ultrasharp 24 inch Infinity Edge Monitor - U2417H, Full HD 1920 X 1080 at 60 Hz. Prior feedback told me that these are not the best monitors for gaming, but I just got them recently and think they're great. I dont need ultramax settings on all my games, I care more about them running smoothly and being able to alt-tab out and not have the computer turn into a paper weight. I also would like the ability to run a game on one screen and occasionally stream a football game or something on the other, but if this is asking a lot of any computer and I'm just an idiot then I can stop trying to do both at the same time.

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013
Probation
Can't post for 21 hours!


Cool cool. The 9900k is grossly overkill for what you're looking to do, you won't be able to tap a fraction of it's potential. Grab a 3600, use the stock cooler, and pocket the difference; any modern processor will sail past the 60fps limit imposed by your monitors and should have no problem with multitasking like that. Also be sure to grab a Windows key from SA Mart rather than spending full retail.

Do you want to game on both monitors at the same? The 1660 super is a good choice for 1920x1080, but 3840x1080 would want something beefier.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

That is because I did some looking around and that CPU is on sale on Newegg and also Real Good so I upped it from a non-hyper threaded i7.
I have two Dell Ultrasharp 24 inch Infinity Edge Monitor - U2417H, Full HD 1920 X 1080 at 60 Hz. Prior feedback told me that these are not the best monitors for gaming, but I just got them recently and think they're great. I dont need ultramax settings on all my games, I care more about them running smoothly and being able to alt-tab out and not have the computer turn into a paper weight. I also would like the ability to run a game on one screen and occasionally stream a football game or something on the other, but if this is asking a lot of any computer and I'm just an idiot then I can stop trying to do both at the same time.

Powerful cpus are really only necessary for pushing very high frame rates in demanding games. Pretty much every modern 6-core+ processor will run any current game at 60+ fps, so you can save a lot of money without seeing any performance difference:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($117.68 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00)
Total: $621.62


A 2600 is fine for gaming right now, and the Pro4 is fine for upgrading to a 3600 or 3700x (or 4th-gen Ryzen equivalent) down the road. A Ryzen 3600 is a ~15% cpu performance boost, but gaming performance will be equivalent right now. If you'd like to just start with the 3600, though, get the B450 Tomhawk MAX motherboard for out-of-the-box compatibility.

The 3200 MHz RAM kit is QVL for either motherboard so it has guaranteed XMP compatibility (to run at the listed speed). At 60Hz, your also not going to see a difference between 3200 and 3600 ram.

You can get a copy of Windows 7 Pro on SAMart for $25 and use that to activate Windows 10 Pro. If you have any Windows 7/8/10 keys from previous computers that you aren't using anymore, you could also just reuse one of those keys!

E: My go-to non-flashy mid-tower case is the Fractal Design Meshify C (which also comes in windowed variants).

EE: Do you need a SSD?

Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 13, 2019

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Slippery Tilde

AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

That is because I did some looking around and that CPU is on sale on Newegg and also Real Good so I upped it from a non-hyper threaded i7.
I have two Dell Ultrasharp 24 inch Infinity Edge Monitor - U2417H, Full HD 1920 X 1080 at 60 Hz. Prior feedback told me that these are not the best monitors for gaming, but I just got them recently and think they're great. I dont need ultramax settings on all my games, I care more about them running smoothly and being able to alt-tab out and not have the computer turn into a paper weight. I also would like the ability to run a game on one screen and occasionally stream a football game or something on the other, but if this is asking a lot of any computer and I'm just an idiot then I can stop trying to do both at the same time.
With those monitors anything more expensive than a Ryzen 5 3600 is completely pointless and does absolutely nothing for you, streaming on one monitor or not. Same thing with the GPU, there's no point in spending more because you're effectively bottlenecked by the monitor. You don't need any fancy hardware at all to power 1080p at 60Hz these days. A 9900K and a 2070 (which is what you seem to have the budget for) is appropriate for 2560x1440 at well over 100fps. Asking it to do 1080p 60fps isn't even going to make it break a sweat.

A 27" 1440p 144Hz IPS monitor with variable refresh rate support is only around $400 these days, and it'll do more for gaming than almost anything else you can buy will.

TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 13, 2019

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

Hi Thread,

I am in the US building a new gaming PC. Someone helped me get this put together near the end of the last thread:
I upgraded the CPU because I have more room in by budget; I already have my Hard Drive situation sorted so it is absent from that list. I have a few follow up questions, though:
1.) I have maybe another $200 in budget, should I upgrade the graphics card?
2.) There are a staggering number of cases to chose from. I would like a medium sized (easy enough to move if I want to go to the rare LAN but not too small, either) with no lighting on the outside. Anyone have any suggestions or know a good brand to look at?
3.) Do I need any more cooling?

1) If you're set on going with Intel, you should upgrade the *motherboard*. All Z390 boards are not created equal. Look into the Aorus Master board, it often goes on sale for ~$220. It sure isn't $220 right now, though. =/
2) Fractal Design's cases are a joy to build out of, and they're one of the last case makers that offer cases without side windows. The Meshify series also eschews the closed-front aesthetic for a cleaner flow-through.
3) Yes. The 9900K is an extremely hot processor, the 9900KS even more so, and the 212EVO is an *aging* HSF. Air cooling a 9900K, treat the Noctua NH-D15S as your jumping off point and realize you're not going to have much overclocking headroom...at all. I'm personally very anti-AIO because I don't like putting things with moving parts that can fail catastrophically and take out other components in the process in my computer. I didn't really have a choice with my current build, and am running a 360mm AIO with a push-pull config (that's three 120mm ML120 fans on either side) to cool the CPU.

Lastly, consider going AMD this time around - most people - myself included - will suggest the 3700X, but if you're dead-set on a high-end CPU go with the 3900X. By buying into the Z390 you're buying into a dead platform. Intel's already said their next gen CPU architecture's going to use a new socket and new board, while Socket AM4 still has Zen 3 scheduled for it before AMD retires it. What you lose in single-thread speed you'll gain in a mid-life upgrade path. Also, wait for BF/CM and see where 2060 Supers and non-Super 2070s land. There's a 2070S Zotac Mini on Amazon at the moment for $489.99, which feels like a price test to me.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Nov 13, 2019

charity rereg
Mar 14, 2019

Can you pay my bills
Can you pay my telephone bills
Can you pay my automo-bills

AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

That is because I did some looking around and that CPU is on sale on Newegg and also Real Good so I upped it from a non-hyper threaded i7.
I have two Dell Ultrasharp 24 inch Infinity Edge Monitor - U2417H, Full HD 1920 X 1080 at 60 Hz. Prior feedback told me that these are not the best monitors for gaming, but I just got them recently and think they're great. I dont need ultramax settings on all my games, I care more about them running smoothly and being able to alt-tab out and not have the computer turn into a paper weight. I also would like the ability to run a game on one screen and occasionally stream a football game or something on the other, but if this is asking a lot of any computer and I'm just an idiot then I can stop trying to do both at the same time.

I'd recommend the following given today's prices and changes:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194, Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Not Needed
Motherboard: ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($145, Newegg, $30 MIR)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($65, Newegg, just $10 cheaper)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 8 GB Video Card ($330, Newegg, $30 MIR)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.98 @ Newegg)

This is $820! plus $60 in mail in rebates if those are your thing [i didnt factor them into the cost], add the $100 if you buy Windows 10 outright and don't buy a Win7 key for whatever they cost in SA mart. Cheaper and a much better distribution of money.

If you want to save even more drop back down to the 1660 Super which takes you down to $720 out of pocket.

edit: It's my completely personal opinion that given you are way way under budget that springing for the 3600 right now is beneficial. There's some benefits out of the gate and if you do upgrade your monitor (the most likely upgrade in this setup, once you try high refresh its hard to go back) you won't need to buy an entirely new CPU and hope to sell the quickly depreciating old one.

charity rereg fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Nov 13, 2019

eames
May 9, 2009



I agree with charity rereg.

Not a great time to buy into Z390. Successor seems to be around the corner, Asus is already trying to move inventory with cashback promotions in some countries, new security mitigations were announced today (0 to 4% performance loss), any extra singlethread performance wonít be useful due to the 60 Hz screens.

If you go with the 1660 now you can save money for a midrange 7nm GPU next year and maybe even enjoy raytracing with your system.

eames fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Nov 13, 2019

AAAAA! Real Muenster
Jul 12, 2008

My QB is also named Bort



Wow, I was not expecting so much feedback, thank you everyone! I obviously have no idea what I am doing so I really appreciate all of the info. I obviously have some thinking to do! I was planning on getting an intel because I have read that most games and applications are designed with intel hardware in mind, but if I can spend that much less and will not be able to tell the difference due to picking a bad monitor last year maybe I'll just save me some cash.

Citycop
Apr 11, 2005

Greetings, Rainbow Dash.

I will now sing for you a song that I hope will ease your performance anxiety.

AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:

That is because I did some looking around and that CPU is on sale on Newegg and also Real Good so I upped it from a non-hyper threaded i7.
I have two Dell Ultrasharp 24 inch Infinity Edge Monitor - U2417H, Full HD 1920 X 1080 at 60 Hz. Prior feedback told me that these are not the best monitors for gaming, but I just got them recently and think they're great. I dont need ultramax settings on all my games, I care more about them running smoothly and being able to alt-tab out and not have the computer turn into a paper weight. I also would like the ability to run a game on one screen and occasionally stream a football game or something on the other, but if this is asking a lot of any computer and I'm just an idiot then I can stop trying to do both at the same time.

I can accomplish everything on your list with my current CPU, which I bought for $16.00 on ebay a year ago (Xeon X3440), with 8GB ram and a used, $250 GTX 1070. Your CPU choice is not just overkill, it's a huge waste of money. For your monitor setup your entire computer build could probably be around the $500 mark. Total, and it would probably still be overkill.

Stickman pretty much nailed a good price / performance system for you.

Citycop fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Nov 13, 2019

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004



Looking for real advice re: a pair of water-cooled Titan Z cards I just inherited. I'm in the US and my power bill is included with my rent.

Current build: Core i5 4xxx, Asus mobo, 8GB DDR3, AMD 7870, Samsung SATA SSD. Plays everything I try to run pretty well, I don't dick with the sliders or try to eke out any additional visual bling, really, it's roughly as good as a PS4 but with more adjustibility.

I got this whole rack with a 4x120mm radiator (crap round tubes but large), two Titan Z cards with EKWB water blocks on them, a Corsair AX1200i power supply. I want to use them even though they were free/they're old. They're attached to an EKWB water block manifold that spaces the cards for quad-card SLI, but all the machines I have have spacing with two slots in between the full-length PCIe slots and so won't work. The air cooling that came with them is long gone.

Options:
I can upgrade my computer but I don't really feel a need to, also this option mostly requires me to pick a motherboard based on how far apart the PCIe slots are and ew, gross. Also, lots have a dead space adding a larger gap between the slots so I'm having to kind of slum it to find that spacing.
I can directly plumb new fittings onto the water blocks and use one or both of them that way in just any of my two towers that will accommodate the rest of the rigamarole, though this runs the risk of leaking whatever coolant is on them on the card(s) while re-plumbing them. I know how to deal with this but it will be annoying. Luckily there a MicroCenter here with EKWB fittings in stock, this method could be up and running tonight but it honestly won't. This method is kind of desirable as I have a smaller radiator, some leftover Tygon tubing from an old WC build, but the aforementioned hassles sort of balance out.

In looking at benchmarks I see that a single Titan Z with SLI functioning gets similar scores to a 970, and two with quad SLI gets similar scores as a 1070 non-Ti. With all that "knowledge" I can tell that a single TitanZ would be a video upgrade for me assuming SLI was working for whatever title I was playing.


Should I just say forget it and try to sell them to someone more enterprising? Should I replumb and stress test them individually to save me the headache of finding out they don't work after buying a new machine to accommodate them as-is? What would you do?

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013
Probation
Can't post for 21 hours!


They probably worth more as a collectable. You can get a 970 for $100 or less, or 1070 level performance in a new card for around $200. I'd just flip them.

charity rereg
Mar 14, 2019

Can you pay my bills
Can you pay my telephone bills
Can you pay my automo-bills

They don't sell well, since they came to you for free you could probably move them quickly for $250ea on ebay, maybe $200 and roll that into a 2060 Super or something if you need that much power, or a 1660super if you dont. If selling them isn't seen as rude, I realize not every gift comes without expectations, or the person might want to sell them if you aren't using them.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

charity rereg posted:

They don't sell well, since they came to you for free you could probably move them quickly for $250ea on ebay, maybe $200 and roll that into a 2060 Super or something if you need that much power, or a 1660super if you dont. If selling them isn't seen as rude, I realize not every gift comes without expectations, or the person might want to sell them if you aren't using them.

The x-factor that's working against him here is the fact that they've got waterblocks on them. If they still had the stock HSF on them, I could see them being desirable for someone wanting to do low-end ML applications and not spend a small fortune doing it. But with those EKWB blocks on them (which likely are specially tailored to the Titan Z), you've just turned something simple into a complex thing someone has to work around. A 'cheap' card just became more expensive because you have to then buy a new cooling apparatus for it.

If you itemize on your taxes, get in contact with your nearest 'tech-forward' college/community college/high school and see if they'll take them in as a donation.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Nov 13, 2019

charity rereg
Mar 14, 2019

Can you pay my bills
Can you pay my telephone bills
Can you pay my automo-bills

BIG HEADLINE posted:

The x-factor that's working against him here is the fact that they've got waterblocks on them. If they still had the stock HSF on them, I could see them being desirable for someone wanting to do low-end ML applications and not spend a small fortune doing it. But with those EKWB blocks on them (which likely are specially tailored to the Titan Z), you've just turned something simple into a complex thing someone has to work around. A 'cheap' card just became more expensive because you have to then buy a new cooling apparatus for it.

If you itemize on your taxes, get in contact with your nearest 'tech-forward' college and see if they'll take them in as a donation.

oh this is totally right, i spaced when pricing the cards. they do move (or at least did in sept, but two months is a long time!) but with the stock HSF. woof, yeah this is way more trouble than its worth.

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004



Yeah, I was kind of leaning that way; since I can tell about the performance I was able to tell my buddy he couldn't use one of them (he has an Asus ROG G20 tower with a single slot to work with so theoretically possible but power will never let him) and also wouldn't get any additional performance over his 1070. Also, a 2080 fits fine.

I also would like to not try selling them with the water blocks on them, untested, after they've been sitting for years.

Pizdec
Dec 10, 2012


Is this the right place for external HDD recommendations? I'm thinking of buying a non-SSD one in the 1-2 TB range that will last me a good couple of years. Not looking for speed, just reliability. Should I just go with WD ELEMENTS as previously suggested, or are there more reliable options?

Also, what's the story with this?

Mu Zeta posted:

It's a pretty good time to be building a new pc right now in terms of price. RAM and SSD prices are the lowest they've ever been. Just last year 16 gigs of ram was like $180 and now you can do it for $60. The Ryzen 2600 + mobo will be around $200 and will last for years. New video cards are plentiful and in stock everywhere selling at or below msrp since the crypto thing crashed hard.

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013
Probation
Can't post for 21 hours!


It was a dumb idea from the start and the irrational exuberance died out.

Butt Ghost
Nov 23, 2013



So hereís the build Iím aiming for. Itís modified based on what orange juche sent me earlier. I decided to put in the Ryzen 3700X because its multi-threading gives it a leg up when it comes to emulating more strenuous titles.

I was wanting to know if I should go with 32 gigs of ram instead of 16, and if I should go with the fractal Meshify. I like the fractal define s2, but Iím not sure if itís worth the $200+.

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004

ACTUALLY IS MIKE CERNOVICH. WAS TOO STUPID TO FIGURE OUT THAT THE TRUMP LOVER AVATAR WAS THE STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR

Whitest Russian posted:

It's not really a FPS problem but a frametime problem with a 6600k. It keeps jumping between ~5 and ~20 milliseconds between frames which is annoying.

Did you try orange juche suggestion? What kind of bloatware do you have? Just 5 min of googling suggests that you have a bloatware issue.

I mean sure, if you want to get 6 or 8 core SMT CPU just so you can have bloatware on it and run DOOM at the same time you can upgrade but it feels like you have a 0 dollar option available to you.



Nude Hoxha Cameo posted:

First and foremost, thanks for keeping the thread going - itís an amazingly valuable resource!

But also a question: Are you planning on pulling over the quick picks? Iíve always found that useful as a starting point, and my guess is that itís been helpful over the years to others as well.

ItBreathes posted:

If anyone cares to make and keep current such a list I'm happy to link in the OP / let them poach the rest of it for a new thread, though I'm going to be making some additions / revisions later this week.

It is so hard to make a good "generalized" list. Products to recommend scale with the resolution of the monitor, expected frame rate, the type of games (AAA vs Fortnite), longevity of components, current budget, upcoming budget for the next set of upgrades and said time table for upcoming upgrades.

It is far more important for people to be as informative as possible when asking questions so we can tailor advice to the individual. Include all of the things mentioned in the OP. It will save you a lot of headaches.

That said I'll piece together something in the next little bit with the most scalable components like CPU, RAM, and GPU since those are the ones that affect performance the most.

Butt Ghost posted:

So hereís the build Iím aiming for. Itís modified based on what orange juche sent me earlier. I decided to put in the Ryzen 3700X because its multi-threading gives it a leg up when it comes to emulating more strenuous titles.

I was wanting to know if I should go with 32 gigs of ram instead of 16, and if I should go with the fractal Meshify. I like the fractal define s2, but Iím not sure if itís worth the $200+.

That is a beast of a PC. Definitely well beyond the price to performance sweet spot, especially the GPU which is an insane buy for 1440p, but if that's what you want then go for it.

As for the case, the Meshify C is a longtime goon stalwart. There are other cases like it in that price range that do just as good a job. Buy a more expensive case if there are specific front panel IO options you want/need or you need the additional space for SSDs/Hard drives that the small-sized mid towers can't give you. Is there a specific "want" on the case? Superior noise cancellation or RGB?

MikeC fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Nov 14, 2019

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

Butt Ghost posted:

So hereís the build Iím aiming for. Itís modified based on what orange juche sent me earlier. I decided to put in the Ryzen 3700X because its multi-threading gives it a leg up when it comes to emulating more strenuous titles.

I was wanting to know if I should go with 32 gigs of ram instead of 16, and if I should go with the fractal Meshify. I like the fractal define s2, but Iím not sure if itís worth the $200+.

You have 4 ram slots so just add another 16 gigs later if you really need it. I like the Meshify for better airflow.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Pizdec posted:

Is this the right place for external HDD recommendations? I'm thinking of buying a non-SSD one in the 1-2 TB range that will last me a good couple of years. Not looking for speed, just reliability. Should I just go with WD ELEMENTS as previously suggested, or are there more reliable options?

Also, what's the story with this?

When crypto took off in 2017, miners started buying up gpus and prices skyrocketed by ~2-3x



Even after the crash and mining moving to ASICs it took until 2019 for prices to fall back below 2017 levels (for 2-year old cards), and NVidia fought like hell to keep prices as high as they could with Turing's pricing structure. It was pretty annoying for people like me who needed to build in the middle of the bubble, though I got lucky and managed to trade up a few times on the falling edge.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012


Upset Trowel

Butt Ghost posted:

So hereís the build Iím aiming for. Itís modified based on what orange juche sent me earlier. I decided to put in the Ryzen 3700X because its multi-threading gives it a leg up when it comes to emulating more strenuous titles.

I was wanting to know if I should go with 32 gigs of ram instead of 16, and if I should go with the fractal Meshify. I like the fractal define s2, but Iím not sure if itís worth the $200+.

I would bring that GPU back down to a 2080 Super. The 2080 TI won't do anything at 1440P a 2080 Super can't do. The 2080 TI's one use case really is doing 4K gaming, or pushing RTX at maximum settings at 1440P. If you're going with 1440P, then the Super is plenty enough. Ray tracing honestly isn't mature enough yet to justify the $1100 outlay for a 2080TI just to do a bit better in ray tracing right now, when the next generation of ray tracing cards will likely flatten the current gen, up to and including the 2080TI.

I game on a 2080 (non-super) at ultrawide 1440P, which is 30% more pixels than what you've got there, and I've never gone below a quite enjoyable framerate (100-120FPS) at maximum quality unless the game was horrendously optimized (Borderlands 3 ), in which case it really doean't matter how much hardware you have it will still suck and you'll just be angrier.

Even with RTX on high in Shadow of the Tomb Raider at 3440x1440 I was getting 45 FPS, which is fine, I was able to get 60FPS at full resolution by stepping back to medium RTX from maximum.

http://www.3dmark.com/pr/172870



Here's a Port Royal benchmark I just ran which tests how my system with a 2080 (non Super) does on RTX.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Nov 14, 2019

Butt Ghost
Nov 23, 2013



Thatís a good point. Iíll lower it to a Super then if a TI is useless to me atm.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7wyGcq

I can settle for this sweeter price or reinvest that cash in a case that glows in the dark or some poo poo. Or maybe a better monitor.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012


Upset Trowel

Butt Ghost posted:

Thatís a good point. Iíll lower it to a Super then if a TI is useless to me atm.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7wyGcq

I can settle for this sweeter price or reinvest that cash in a case that glows in the dark or some poo poo. Or maybe a better monitor.


That monitor seems solid from reviews, the only thing is the on screen display is apparently the worst one ever designed into a monitor according to reviewers. From a technical standpoint however it's a great IPS monitor, with a range of 30hz to 144hz and all the bells and whistles that mean that Nvidia's GSYNC should work just fine with it. You could invest that money back into storage and upgrade your 1TB NVME into a 2TB drive from Sabrent that I linked earlier. That Sabrent Rocket 2TB drive is extremely solid, and if you're doing a lot of gaming, you're gonna want a lot of SSD space, because SSD's are absolutely the biggest improvement to computing since the GUI was invented.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Nov 14, 2019

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


If you end up going for 2TB, the Rocket is great but the MyDigitalSSD BPX Pro is $20 less and literally the same drive (as in the Rocket is a rebranded BPX Pro)!

You could also consider ditching your spinning rust drive and getting a 2TB Intel 660p for your second M.2 slot.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Phison E12 drives are Phison E12 drives are Phison E12 drives, but MyDigitalSSD hasn't updated their website even news-wise in months. They also haven't put out a F/W update in well over a year.

I can't in good conscience recommend a company that can't even put up a "hey, we're still around and functioning" message on their website.

And of course, just as I look, they've at least tweeted they have new products, but still no new support info. The Inland drives are evidently coming with ECFM F/W version 22.4 out of the blister pack. No one's uploaded a F/W update tool yet or ascertained if it'll be another destructive update.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Nov 14, 2019

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004

ACTUALLY IS MIKE CERNOVICH. WAS TOO STUPID TO FIGURE OUT THAT THE TRUMP LOVER AVATAR WAS THE STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR

Hi friends, please vet this post so it can be potentially linked as a tiered gaming PC build guide. I'll commit to updating this post at least once every two months till or sooner if new products justify it. Since it will be linked and not in the OP itself, should it ever fall into obsolescence and/or someone else takes up the mantle, we can easily simply delete the OP link or have it point to another updated one.


Here are 4 builds I put together for each logical tier of gaming PC I could think of. Instead of posting 4 parts lists, I will instead post the links to saved PCPartPicker builds to save space followed by commentary on different options on components within that tier as well as potential upgrade paths.

Several Notes:

This post not a substitute for asking in the thread for specific advice or for crosschecking in case the post falls out of date before I can update the post. It is designed to offer a general framework to see how far your money can go. Always post in the thread with the required answers to the questions in the OP to obtain optimal advice tailored to you! You can edit any of the saved part lists and then repost in your question. RAM, Motherboard, GPU make/model (with the same chip), and Case are all interchangeable and not model specific. Prices fluctuate and the cheapest item is not necessarily the one on that part list. Windows 10 is not included in the build nor is a monitor included. This is the base cost for the box only and usually with budget options in mind. Windows 10 can be had for 19 dollars on SA Mart and monitor inquiries should be directed to the SH/SC Monitor thread. You will notice the same motherboard being used over and over again. Check carefully to see if you need a feature that isn't on the motherboard used in this guide! If you need something, and it is not on it, we can find you another motherboard that does! The case is the one that I am personally using now. This is flexible and you can choose whatever you want. Most goons like the Meshify C instead and while it is a bit more expensive but works just fine. If you have a specific requirement for the case like a smaller form factor or specific IO options, let us know or just buy what you need!

Note on RAM: AMD motherboards can be picky about the RAM kits they take. Each motherboard typically has a Qualified Vendor List where they have actually tested RAM kits out to make sure they work. I recommend you stick to a RAM kit that is on your motherboard's QVL. Odds of bad things happening with non-QVL ram is low but if it doesn't work, troubleshooting or manual RAM tuning can be a nightmare.

Revision 1.1 - November 16, 2019

I want my kid to play Minecraft, Fortnite and/or the current E-Sport game de jour on a PC

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($119.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($78.95 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: ARCTIC Arctic F14 PWM 77.3 CFM 140 mm Fan ($9.31 @ Amazon)
Total: $432.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-23 17:02 EST-0500

For just around 405 USD, one can assemble a PC capable of playing the latest mass consumer, kid-friendly titles, with medium or low settings on a 1080p (also known as Full HD/FHD) monitor. An AMD CPU with integrated graphics can play these titles with a minimum of 45-60 frames per second as most of these titles are designed with low hardware requirements to capture the biggest audience possible. Modern "retro" gaming like Minecraft and other pixel style games should also be very playable. The primary advantage of this build is to save you the cost of buying a separate graphics card. It is important to note that these games are not the same as what is generally known as AAA games such as the latest Ubisoft open-world game (think Assassin's Creed or Ghost Recon). While it is possible to run these games at low graphics settings and still be enjoyable, "acceptable" performance in the FPS department is not guaranteed. It is important to note that this build is not necessarily recommended as even a modest increase in budget to around 650-700 dollars can buy substantial performance increases and unlock the door to a much better gaming experience. The longevity of the CPU is also questionable with respect to how long it can support gaming beyond these types of kid-friendly games. For those with absolutely no wiggle room, however, this will be a serviceable option as a barebones entry-level gaming PC.

The AMD AM4 socket on a B450 motherboard offers a lot of upgradability. The easiest upgrade will be the addition of a graphics card which should immediately boost performance by allowing higher graphics settings and increase framerates at 1080p. A used AMD RX 580 can be had for around $100 and even a new one should cost no more than around $150. The motherboard can also support a CPU drop-in upgrade with a modern Ryzen 3600 6 core/ 12 thread CPU costing about $200 dollars. Ryzen 4000 desktop CPUs being released in Q2/Q3 2020 should also be compatible though not confirmed by AMD at the time of writing. This PC offers good flexibility for staggered upgrades even if it means throwing the CPU in the recycle bin after 12 months.


Budget 1080p gaming at 60 FPS

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper 4 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $665.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-23 17:02 EST-0500

For just under 700 USD, a solid budget PC can be had for gaming at 1080p with ~60 FPS, with high settings, in modern AAA titles with the same skeleton as the previous build. Storage capacity has been upgraded to a 1 TB SSD. The CPU is now the Ryzen 2600, the current king of price to performance. A discreet graphics card has also been added and it is the same RX 580 mentioned in the previous build. This PC should be able to comfortably handle any modern-day game at 60 FPS with typical "medium/high" in-game settings. Using the same motherboard allows us similar CPU upgrades to the previous build and should you decide to move onto 1440p gaming, it likely that a graphics card upgrade is all that is needed within the next 18-24 months. If you want additional headroom to increase graphics settings in-game or to "lock-in" 60 FPS per second, an additional $50 dollars or so will net you the GTX 1660 Super which is the new king of the 1080p, High/Ultra settings, 60 FPS playground.

The storage listed is a 1TB Sata SSD. The motherboard does offer an NVME M.2 slot and a minor cost increase of ~10-20 dollars will net you a fancier SSD though performance gains in booting Windows and loading games will be negligible.

Flex 1080p at 100+ FPS or 1440p at 60+ FPS

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($403.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1068.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-23 17:04 EST-0500

The $1000-$1100 price range will buy you either a true high refresh rate experience at 1080p or offer a solid 1440p (also known as QHD) experience at 60-90 FPS. This build will serve either a gamer who owns a 144Hz or 240Hz 1080p monitor or a gamer with a 1440p monitor. The CPU is now the latest AMD mid-range offering that moves past the absolute sweet spot in price to performance but in exchange, you get a CPU that will support higher 1% FPS lows over the Ryzen 2600 to offer a smoother experience on some demanding games. The RAM has now been upgraded to DDR-4 3600 MHz CL 16. Both Intel and AMD CPUs will see performance gains with faster RAM and the Ryzen 3600 now offers official support for 3600 MHz RAM. The upgrade is for a minimal cost. The graphics card is now the AMD RX 5700XT, the current mainstream recommendation at 1440p. The PSU is also upgraded to a 650w fully modular unit for increased headroom in case future upgrades require it.

There is a ton of flexibility to this build. Should the current budget be insufficient, there is a myriad of cost-cutting measures available to the buyer. The first option is to drop the CPU back down to a Ryzen 2600. This will typically not seriously impact performance especially at 1440p when the GPU is the main bottleneck although 1% lows will suffer to a degree. Decent 3600 MHz RAM is only a touch more expensive than 3200 MHz RAM but if you absolutely need to find 10-15 dollars to save in the build, that is the best place to look as performance loss will be in the low single-digit FPS range. Another option is to go for a more budget-oriented GPU. The AMD RX 5700 offers only an 8-15% drop in performance and can be had for as low as $330-350 at the time of writing. This will mean that you run the risk of having games drop below 60 FPS at times but with modern monitors and adaptive sync technology, the penalty for dropping slightly below 60 FPS is nowhere near as punishing to the user experience as before. Other budget options include older AMD and Nvidia GPUs. The Vega 56/64 series cards can sometimes be had for cheaper though in general, if you want AMD, the 5700 is the way to go. Nvidia doesn't really have a serviceable budget option here. The 2060 non-super is simply not recommended due to its 6 GB of VRAM. If push comes to shove, the GTX 1660 Super and 1660 Ti can be pressed into 1440p service at reduced graphics settings (medium) so if you want to carry those GPUs over to a new build, that can be an option although buying them new for this build is not recommended. There are better places to find savings on a gaming PC.

If you have the extra money in the budget and want to spend it for better performance, the primary place will be the GPU. The RTX 2070 Super from Nvidia is $100 dollars more for marginally superior performance (title to title basis) but does have ray tracing support on its hardware. I personally question the usability of ray tracing on in the 2070 Super as turning it tanks FPS by as much as 40% but it must be said that this is an option not available to AMD video cards at this time. The RTX 2080 and 2080 Super are options to consider if you want better frames per second performance than what the 5700XT can offer. AMD currently has no viable competitor to these Nvidia offerings and but the price premium for these cards is significant.

On the CPU front, AMD offers the 3700X which is an 8 core/ 16 thread CPU. It has an insignificant edge over the Ryzen 3600 in single-threaded performance but it does come with 8 SMT cores which will theoretically be the new standard once the new generation of consoles arrives late next year. Both the XBOX and PS5 will run some sort of customized AMD 8 core processor which means the 3700X has the potential to age in the long-term (24-48 month) better than the 3600 might. This is speculation though as we have no idea if developers can or will leverage all 8 cores at launch or how badly 6 core parts will fare should doomsday come to pass. At this time, fans of Intel who wish to remain on Team Blue has the option of paying the Intel tax and looking at either the 9700k or the 9900k on a Z390 motherboard.

Flex 1440p 100+ FPS or 2160p

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($326.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card ($1049.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1844.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-23 17:04 EST-0500

There isn't much to be said here that isn't already covered by the previous section. This is just locking in upgraded parts from the previous build. 4K gaming at high settings will require a 2080 Super at least with a 2080 Ti being recommended. You can still use a Ryzen 3600 if you want for a 4K build as the GPU is the main constraint. Hopefully, we will see AMD renew competition in this tier of graphics cards within the next 12 months and drive down some of those obscene GPU prices.

MikeC fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 23, 2019

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

Stickman posted:

You can't really go wrong per se, but I'd probably avoid Zotac since their support has a terrible reputation and single-fan cards since they'll be hotter and louder. The MSi Ventus doesn't have a zero-rpm mode to stop the fans at idle, if you care about that feature. The EVGA SC Ultra has a weird giant stack of thermal transfer pads on the vram (but it still seems to perform okay) and the Gigabyte has plastic backplate (but it's thermals are still fine). The MSi Gaming X and the triple-fan Gigabyte are good, but pricier.

Thanks, I went with the MSI 1660 Super Gaming X. Most others were out of stock and jumped $20 between afternoon to evening. Seems like a good choice though, reviews say it is quieter than other 1660 supers.

Here To Help
Aug 16, 2008


Hey folks,

I've been putting together a part list for a new PC build, including eventually a monitor that should perform solidly at 1440p. I'm planning to start picking up the parts around the black friday sales when I can hopefully chop a little bit off the total price tag. I'm posting this as a sanity check - am I making a clearly inferior pick on a certain part, are there good alternatives to consider, etc.

What country are you in? USA
What are you using the system for? Gaming
What's your budget? Flexible but keeping it around ~1500 before monitor as a goal.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Currently 1080p, but expecting to upgrade to a 1440p monitor

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($309.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.29 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($403.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($133.08 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32GK650F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1707.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-14 01:44 EST-0500

When it comes to the Motherboard I'm also looking at the x570 tuf with wifi, along with the b450 tomahawk options that seem popular. I'll make a decision based on pricing vs features closer to black friday. I may swap the GPU to a sapphire pulse again depending on prices. Storage is mostly a placeholder but I'll be looking in the 1tb (and roughly $100) range when the time comes. I want a platinum rated modular PSU but again, not wedded to a brand. Finally for the case I'm also considering the fractal meshify C.

Anyways, taking this list as a sort of outline for a PC, is there anything that just doesn't make sense? Should I consider going to 32gb ram? Any options I've overlooked or brand recommendations for specific parts? Thanks.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


BIG HEADLINE posted:

Phison E12 drives are Phison E12 drives are Phison E12 drives, but MyDigitalSSD hasn't updated their website even news-wise in months. They also haven't put out a F/W update in well over a year.

I can't in good conscience recommend a company that can't even put up a "hey, we're still around and functioning" message on their website.

And of course, just as I look, they've at least tweeted they have new products, but still no new support info. The Inland drives are evidently coming with ECFM F/W version 22.4 out of the blister pack. No one's uploaded a F/W update tool yet or ascertained if it'll be another destructive update.

Thanks! It sounds like the firmware is probably cross-compatible between MDSSD and Corsair, but that's an unsupported pain in the rear end :/



Thanks for writing all this great stuff out! At the beginning where you talk about asking the thread, I'd mention that prices change and there are a lot of interchangeable parts, so there's a good chance that asking will shave a bit of the cost the build. I'd also mention the motherboard/cpu combo deals at Microcenter for US folks.

In the budget builds, the Corsair CX (2017) basically the same price as the VS for a newer, higher-quality design.

For the ultra-budget build, the 3400g and 2400g have close to identical gaming performance and dropping down lets you move to a cheaper (but still upgrade-capablee) motherboard. I also switched to the cheaper Masterbox Q300L, which really needs the extra intake fan but still comes out cheaper and more compact. That'll either save $70 or give headroom for upgrade to a 1TB drive. It might also be worth mentioning that swapping out to Ryzen 1600 + 1650/570 is just ~$100 more and would vastly improve performance in more demanding games, but that might be better relegated to thread advice.

MSi's Armor cooling was still terrible when the 580 was released, so I'd avoid that particular model. Unfortunately, 580 prices aren't what they once were and the cheapest model I'd recommend is only $20 away from a decent 1660 (the Ventus doesn't have fan-stop, but it's cooling is fine).

E: For the "Flex" build, I'd probably just go ahead and throw in a Meshify C. It's a decent build-quality upgrade over the P400 for only $20. I'd also just stick to 3200MHz RAM - G.Skill lists that 3600 kit as only qvl for a few top-end x570 boards, so it could potentially have XMP issues.

I'd also probably mention that the 2080 Super is a "splurge" upgrade - it's a pretty marginal ~15% performance boost for $300 over the XT (or $200 over the 2070 Super).

EE: Apparently the su750 is dramless so I'd probably just recommend spending the extra $5 for an su800 to avoid the extra wear-and-tear.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Nov 14, 2019

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Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Here To Help posted:

Hey folks,

I've been putting together a part list for a new PC build, including eventually a monitor that should perform solidly at 1440p. I'm planning to start picking up the parts around the black friday sales when I can hopefully chop a little bit off the total price tag. I'm posting this as a sanity check - am I making a clearly inferior pick on a certain part, are there good alternatives to consider, etc.

What country are you in? USA
What are you using the system for? Gaming
What's your budget? Flexible but keeping it around ~1500 before monitor as a goal.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Currently 1080p, but expecting to upgrade to a 1440p monitor

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($309.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.29 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($403.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($133.08 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32GK650F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1707.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-14 01:44 EST-0500

When it comes to the Motherboard I'm also looking at the x570 tuf with wifi, along with the b450 tomahawk options that seem popular. I'll make a decision based on pricing vs features closer to black friday. I may swap the GPU to a sapphire pulse again depending on prices. Storage is mostly a placeholder but I'll be looking in the 1tb (and roughly $100) range when the time comes. I want a platinum rated modular PSU but again, not wedded to a brand. Finally for the case I'm also considering the fractal meshify C.

Anyways, taking this list as a sort of outline for a PC, is there anything that just doesn't make sense? Should I consider going to 32gb ram? Any options I've overlooked or brand recommendations for specific parts? Thanks.

This looks good and it sounds like you have a handle on the options. For gaming right now a 3700x will perform similarly to a 3600, but it's not too expensive of an upgrade.

The Tuf and Elite are pretty similar - the main difference is that the Tuf has a USB-c port on the back but no front-panel usb-c header while the Elite has a front-panel header but none on the back. Since the H510 has a front-panel usb-c port, you might prefer the Elite.

For your SSD, look for deals on the HP ex920, Inland Premium, Sabrent Rocket, Corsair MP510, or Silicon Power A80. The WD Blue is a SATA drive rather than proper NVMe, but there's not really a noticeable difference in gaming performance. The Crucial MX500, Samsung 860 Evo (not QVO), and Adata su800 are all good SATA drives that are worthwhile if they offer a bit of savings over the NVMe options.

The Mugen 5 is great, but isn't strictly necessary. The stock cooler on 3700x is sufficient for cooling, though it's a bit too loud for some people.

I'd consider leaving the H510 in it's stock negative-pressure configuration (2x exhaust, no intake). Gamersnexus found that it reduces gpu temperatures at the cost of slightly increased CPU temperatures, and gpu temps are what's most important for gaming.

E: You're selected monitor is a VA panel, which tend to have a noticeable amount of ghosting due to their slow pixel response time. There's several good 1440p/144Hz IPS options available right now in the same price range - I'd ask for recommendations over in the monitor thread!

Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 14, 2019

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