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LGD
Sep 25, 2004

Klyith posted:

A 3070 (or whatever the equivalent AMD card will be if those are competitive) and leaving the rest alone is IMO the right idea. 4 cores isn't a hindrance as long as you have 8 threads, which you do. Waiting on DDR5 for a full system build seems like the way to maximize your upgrade. If DDR5 comes next year your 7700K should easily stay good until then.

thanks! that's more or less what I'd concluded, but I appreciate the independent sanity check

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sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

Pazzeh posted:

What country are you in? UK]
What are you using the system for? Gaming
What's your budget? £1500 for parts (not including graphics card or monitor)
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? At the moment I run an Asus PB278 for 1080p gaming. This may change in the future, but for now I'll keep this.

The PC I have at the moment is :
I7 6700K with a H100iGTX
Gigabyte Z107X - UD5 TH-CF
16 Gig DDR 4
Intel SSD 750 series 400GB + 2 TB & 3TB HD's
GTX 980
Power supply is a Corsair RM 1000x

I am looking to buy a 3080 and upgrade in the next few weeks (unless you tell me I should wait for new Intel/AMD trumpet heralds of new tech), but I bought this PC in 2016 and have no clue whether to go AMD or Intel, get 16 or 32 gig RAM.

Please help !


Thinking about pulling the trigger on these components
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900XT 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor (£439.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£99.98 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (£197.00 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£128.49 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£174.78 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1040.24

Appreciate any advice / comments on this build

Thank you

With that budget I'd do it slightly differently.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor (£402.00 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler (£71.34 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (£209.76 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£163.57 @ Newegg UK)
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£120.97 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £967.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-05 20:12 BST+0100

The 3900 XT is a ripoff, it's 0.1 GHz faster than the X, it literally does nothing.

Water cooling is pointless for these CPUs IMO. If you just want to do it for fun that's one thing, but you'll spend more to gain nothing over a good air cooler with these Ryzens outside maybe a 3950X or something.

Samsung is a ripoff now.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Klyith posted:

The Define 7 when you add a ton of HDDs does not have great airflow. The front fans then have the solid panel in front and HD cages behind them.

You can add some top exhaust fans to help, but mostly I think you will just have to resign yourself to it being a somewhat loud system while gaming. Clean the dust filters regularly. It's not going to hurt anything though.

Loud while gaming is totally fine. I play only with headphones anyway so that’s not a huge issue.

I actually really like that the door easy opens and closes. I have no problems keeping it open while gaming, but I really like that I can keep it closed during the day for a subtler look.

Also didn’t know if I should exhaust or intake on the top so that helps.

With the case picked out I think that solidified my upgrade, assuming I can actually snag a 3080.

Pazzeh
Oct 19, 2003

sean10mm
With that budget I'd do it slightly differently.


Butterfly Valley
If I were you I'd be smart and spend a little less on the components and use the savings to get a new 144hz monitor, because that would feel like a big upgrade from what you're currently using.

Thank you, I can definitely see what you're saying and I can adjust accordingly to save some cash for a monitor and other stuff. You've definitely taken the stress out of my decision making.

Snuffman
May 21, 2004

I have an i5 8600 now.

I'm definitely sick of the stock Intel cooler, it sounds like a goddamn jet engine.

1. I'm looking at a Corsair H100i Closed Loop liquid cooler to replace the stock fan, will it soothe my noise-related issues or just be louder/as loud? Also, overkill?

I know it fits in my case.

Also, looks fairly easy to install. I'm kinda put off 3rd party fan cooling because they look so complex to install and I really really don't want to have to completely disassemble my PC to install a replacement fan.

2. Related to my processor, I'm stupidly tempted to throw in an i7 9700 just to really really futureproof my system. My board supports it with a BIOS update and the processors are on sale at my local for $120 off.

Is this really really really dumb? It feels dumb, but I kinda want to be dumb.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Pazzeh posted:

sean10mm
With that budget I'd do it slightly differently.


Butterfly Valley
If I were you I'd be smart and spend a little less on the components and use the savings to get a new 144hz monitor, because that would feel like a big upgrade from what you're currently using.

Thank you, I can definitely see what you're saying and I can adjust accordingly to save some cash for a monitor and other stuff. You've definitely taken the stress out of my decision making.

144hz monitor is almost always worth it. The difference is huge and immediately noticeable



I’m considering more memory for my build. Is there anything wrong with mismatching ram as long as dual channel is matched?

Looking at getting this

https://www.microcenter.com/product/481738/gskill-ripjaws-v-16gb-(2-x-8gb)-ddr4-3200-pc4-25600-cl16-dual-channel-desktop-memory-kit-f4-3200c16d-16gvkb---black

Have this I think? If it’s not this it’s a super close trident z.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/L2VBD3/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gtz

Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 5, 2020

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

uXs posted:

Yeah, maybe. I dunno, getting a faulty mobo doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Especially when I've been searching about this problem and it seems I'm not the only one with problems. Then again, I guess everything has problems?

a. I think that this particular year the DOA has been up for everything. Sucks when it happens to you, but understandable.

b. User reviews are IMO very dicey for whether something has a real problem trend, or just a bad rep or some other weirdness. For example, my last two mobos have been MSIs that had pretty bad user reviews, and I've seen zero troubles. They were both cheap bargains, and I think they were popular with noobs who maybe didn't have a firm grasp of what they were doing (or a good advice thread). Conversely, when someone buys the gold-plated $400 Biggus Dickus motherboard, they blame anything but the mobo.


Snuffman posted:

I have an i5 8600 now.

I'm definitely sick of the stock Intel cooler, it sounds like a goddamn jet engine.

1. I'm looking at a Corsair H100i Closed Loop liquid cooler to replace the stock fan, will it soothe my noise-related issues or just be louder/as loud? Also, overkill?

I know it fits in my case.

Also, looks fairly easy to install. I'm kinda put off 3rd party fan cooling because they look so complex to install and I really really don't want to have to completely disassemble my PC to install a replacement fan.

2. Related to my processor, I'm stupidly tempted to throw in an i7 9700 just to really really futureproof my system. My board supports it with a BIOS update and the processors are on sale at my local for $120 off.

Is this really really really dumb? It feels dumb, but I kinda want to be dumb.

1. An AIO liquid cooler may be easier to add to an existing system without a lot of disassembly than a large air cooler. Large air coolers are certainly easier to install when you have the mobo out of the case. Then again, rads aren't guaranteed to be a piece of cake. A lot depends on the case & which mount you're going to install it in. Top radiator mounts may require a complex assembly sequence like radiator -> mobo -> rad fans if there are clearance constraints. Front mounts are much easier, assuming your tubes can stretch far enough to the bottom orientation.

For someone who isn't confident in their install skills, you should plan to do a lot of disassembly anyways, no matter what you end up with. Half-assing things is the fastest shortcut to loving yourself.

2. A 9700 doesn't have all that much more future proofing than a 8600K. Two more cores, still no hyperthreading. The 9900K would be a much better bet for that, but it's $400. If you think you can resell the 8600K for a decent price it might be worth it. But it seems like a lot of money for a 2 year old CPU.

TheDemon
Dec 11, 2006

...on the plus side I'm feeling much more angry now than I expected so this totally helps me get in character.

Kingnothing posted:

Why not get a PCI sata card?

Only that I didn't want to go through the PCIe speed calculation and figured taking a $30-50 hit on the motherboard would get me what I wanted at the exact same price. Which, as far as I can tell with some cursory research, is true.

If I could find the right motherboard and card combination to deliver me full SATA 3 speed for a reasonable price then I'm for it.

Klyith posted:

Asrock makes some cheap X570s with wifi AX (same as the mortar) and 8 sata. The phantom gaming 4 is currently on sale for $150 at newegg, heck of a bargain.

Disclaimer: it's asrock so there may be some things that are weird or poorly thought out. For example, asrock still puts the GPU on the very top slot, which conflicts with extra large coolers. Their BIOS is the least friendly of the major mobos. But the price is real good.

I wish that was available in Canada, at a similar price. Right now it is more along the lines of completely out of stock everywhere so I can't even compare.

TheDemon fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Sep 5, 2020

dedian
Sep 2, 2011
Helping my nephew review a budget build he's put together...

What country are you in? US
What are you using the system for? Gaming (144hz/1080p), mostly Fortnite but who knows what he'll want to play in the future, limited future proofing is a plus
What's your budget? $800 for the PC, already has a monitor.

Here's what he's put together so far:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($389.90 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($61.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $978.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-05 22:07 EDT-0400

Not sure what could be adjusted here, or if $800 is going to cut it :)

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.
You could go for the Radeon 5600XT and get a better performing GPU for ~$100 less

Palladium
May 8, 2012

Very Good
✔️✔️✔️✔️
$400 for a 1660S in the US? What.

I paid less for my 2060S

nnnotime
Sep 30, 2001

Hesitate, and you will be lost.
For a new build, does anybody have a good suggestion for a large tower-case that has the following characteristics:

1) Has a power-button on top, or top-side of the case, as I stand my cases on the floor, under my desk;
2) USB 3.0 or 3.1 ports on top, or top-front side;
3) Has enough space for a "thicc" graphics card, like the recently announced Nvidia 3X-series cards.
4) I won't be doing liquid cooling so having space for tubing and radiators/pumps is not a requirement;
5) Having a clear-side panel so I can see inside once in a while, would be a nice-to-have, but not a requirement.

My current system was installed in a Thermaltake Armor Revo full-tower case.

The following Amazon page has pictures of the Armor Revo case. I guess I could try to find this old case online for sale, but it's pretty heavy at 25 lbs. Yeah, the case had a lot of fans, but being under my desk I did not notice the fans' sound:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Armor-Tower-Cases-VO200M6W2N/dp/B007OX1RX0

The Armor Revo case has a lot of room, but one problem I had with the case was the top fan mounts were not the right size to install a Cosair radiator on top, so had to revert to a Noctura cpu fan (which has worked out well).

EDIT: I found these full-size cases by Cougar on Amazon that may fit the bill. The larger cases in their product line would fit one Nvidia RTX 3090.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F13WPCB/?coliid=I1XFKT1N3E6Q9P&colid=34GEU2PO3GDRN&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

nnnotime fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Sep 6, 2020

FreeKillB
May 13, 2009

dedian posted:

Helping my nephew review a budget build he's put together...

A couple notes:

* You can save $150 by going with a different 1660 Super. You could go for a 5600XT for roughly $300 or a 2060 Super for roughly $400 but those make $800 hard to hit without compromising further on other parts. (e: Getting to $800 is doable with a 2600 cpu plus a 5600XT, which would likely be a better framerate in the short run but I could be wrong about whether or not the weaker CPU ends up being too much of a tradeoff overall. also rules out b550 mobos and RAM could be more fiddly)

* It's a tad more expensive but my understanding of the thread zeitgeist is that the Corsair CX non modular is good value for a budget PSU.

* you can save $10 on the SSD by going Crucial or Western Digital. General consensus is that the Samsung tax is not worthwhile any more.

* lowest hanging fruit remaining would be saving some money on the mobo. I'm not an expert here but something along the ASRock B450 Pro4 would let you scrape by under $800 along with a cheaper 1660 Super. In the $130 price range given in the draft build, I know that the MSI MAG B550M Bazooka is well-regarded by the thread. The MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX used to be a thread staple but might be outdated as a recommendation now? (e2: note that the bazooka, being a b550 board, is not compatible with the 2600 option mentioned above)

FreeKillB fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Sep 6, 2020

Jinnigan
Feb 12, 2007

We shall pay him a visit. There will be a picnic. Tea shall be served.
All of you fools rushing to build or upgrade just because of new graphics cards or zen3 or DDR5 have failed to pay attention to the timing of the most important product roadmap

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

Vornado must be quaking in their boots now that Noctua is entering the lucrative desk fan market

Neo_Crimson
Aug 15, 2011

"Is that your final dandy?"
hell yeah i'd buy a noctua desk fan.

EDIT: must be poop brown and cream ONLY :mad:

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week
Chill guys, the 1660 Super on that list just went out of stock and the $400 price is amazon scalpers. I assume it was a sane price when they picked it and that they won't get bamboozled into paying that.

FreeKillB posted:

* It's a tad more expensive but my understanding of the thread zeitgeist is that the Corsair CX non modular is good value for a budget PSU.

* you can save $10 on the SSD by going Crucial or Western Digital. General consensus is that the Samsung tax is not worthwhile any more.

Confirmed both of these. (The samsung tax has never been worth paying -- what changed is they used to be cheaper than everyone else.)

quote:

* getting down to 800 is probably easiest by saving some money on the mobo. I'm not an expert here but something along the ASRock B450 Pro4 would let you scrape by under $800 along with a cheaper 1660 Super. In the $130 price range given in the draft build, I know that the MSI MAG B550M Bazooka is well-regarded by the thread. The MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX used to be a thread staple but might be outdated as a recommendation now?

The 450 Tomahawk max isn't any savings over the Asus, the price for those ramped up since it's such a common go-to. But I also wouldn't pay $130 for any B450 now that various decent 550s are available at the same price.

Right now the hot ticket for a mobo that gets you a lot for the money is the MSI B550M Pro-VDH Wifi if the wifi is useful. And for maximum savings I'd do the MSI B450M Pro-VDH for just $85.


I would not recommend a cheap asrock to a first time builder, if dedian's nephew isn't experienced and doesn't have someone to help out. The Pro4 has no debug leds or other feedback if something goes wrong. That can turn a build with a DOA component, or even something simple like something not fully plugged in, into hours of frustration.

Vir
Dec 14, 2007

Does it tickle when your Body Thetans flap their wings, eh Beatrice?

blue squares posted:

I moved the M2 SSD up to the other slot that was covered by the heatsink (hence why I didn't see it at first). I got it formatted and now it is working.
If the lower slot didn't work, then the slot might be broken - barring something silly like it being disabled in the UEFI (Bios). There's nothing in the manual suggesting that the slot would be disabled when plugging in something else. I would consider RMA'ing the motherboard if you care about having that slot in the future, or at least contacting the store and asking about it.

And you're welcome. I got helped by reading this thread too.

Mu Zeta posted:

Vornado must be quaking in their boots now that Noctua is entering the lucrative desk fan market
The Vortx 4D Gaming is still safe though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvZujoS6AkA

Vir fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Sep 6, 2020

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Vir posted:

If the lower slot didn't work, then the slot might be broken - barring something silly like it being disabled in the UEFI (Bios). There's nothing in the manual suggesting that the slot would be disabled when plugging in something else. I would consider RMA'ing the motherboard if you care about having that slot in the future, or at least contacting the store and asking about it.

And you're welcome. I got helped by reading this thread too.

The Vortx 4D Gaming is still safe though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvZujoS6AkA

that doesn't seem like a good thing to have.

Mr Interweb
Aug 25, 2004

hey, so i realized when i asked this question back weeks ago, no one responded!

so let's try this again. a little assistance por favor:

Mr Interweb posted:

so good news and bad news, folks. good news is my RAM for my laptop FINALLY got in. bad news is that i see absolutely no speed improvements. in fact, i legit think it's even SLOWER, which sounds crazy, but i think there may be something to it because when i checked the RAM speed in the task bar, it went from 800 mhz to 667 mhz. What the heck is up with that? D:

Vitamins
May 1, 2012


So I've had my current PC for a while now and it's beginning to show it's age. Like many people I've taken the opportunity to upgrade now the 30 series GPUs are coming out.

What country are you in? The UK
What are you using the system for? Vast majority of gaming and general PC use.
What's your budget? ~£800, excluding the GPU. I'll be getting a 3080 of some form when the other vendors start releasing.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Currently I have a 1080p/60fps monitor, and am looking at upgrading to a 144Hz one sometime in the future. Obviously I want to be playing on ultra settings for the most part.

My current specs are:


My proposed build is:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor (£300.00 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard (£139.98 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£94.90 @ Newegg UK)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£94.24 @ CCL Computers)
Case: GameMax ABYSS ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£102.62 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £731.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-06 12:29 BST+0100

Any glaring errors? Will I need more than the stock CPU cooler that comes with it? I have a decently large Noctua fan already but I'm guessing the mounting points will be different on the new motherboard.

I've sort of picked based on discussions in thread, but my knowledge is extremely out of date when it comes to PC building. So if there are any better alternate motherboards/RAM etc., or if I've picked a compromising part in any way, any advice is welcome and appreciated!

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Vitamins posted:

any advice is welcome and appreciated!

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/XmH4K4

The Ryzen 3800X is kinda eh, not worth the extra few quid it costs. The 3700X is a better version of what's in the new consoles so should be fine for gaming for the foreseeable future.

I've changed you to Crucial Ballistix RAM which plays nicer with Ryzens.

And I've swapped your storage from the Crucial, which uses QLC thus becoming slower the fuller it gets and making it unsuitable for your main OS drive, to the cheapest of the better options using TLC.

The stock cooler on the Ryzen is perfectly capable but might be too noisy for your taste. But you can order a mounting bracket from noctua free of charge to fit it to AM4 boards.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World
If you want to save a few bucks you could go with the B550M Bazooka instead and not really loose anything but I think 2 SATA ports (and maybe fewer or just different USB ports?). The MPG has what looks like better power delivery, but that won't matter for like a 3700X (and probably not even a stock 3950X)

Also for some reason the exact same Crucial memory is sometimes cheaper depending on what color the heat spreader is. :haw:

I don't know anything about that case.

sean10mm fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Sep 6, 2020

Samadhi
May 13, 2001

Jinnigan posted:

All of you fools rushing to build or upgrade just because of new graphics cards or zen3 or DDR5 have failed to pay attention to the timing of the most important product roadmap



The NH-15S Black is EXACTLY what I need; they need to get going and release it ASAP. I hope I can limp by on the OEM cooler for the 3700X until it's released.

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC

Mr Interweb posted:

hey, so i realized when i asked this question back weeks ago, no one responded!

so let's try this again. a little assistance por favor:

Without having the unit physically in front of me or anyone else, it is very hard to diagnose.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Mr Interweb posted:

UGH

so good news and bad news, folks. good news is my RAM for my laptop FINALLY got in. bad news is that i see absolutely no speed improvements. in fact, i legit think it's even SLOWER, which sounds crazy, but i think there may be something to it because when i checked the RAM speed in the task bar, it went from 800 mhz to 667 mhz. What the heck is up with that? D:

Did you maybe buy something sketchy? Like maybe it’s labeled 800 but they’re actually 667?

Is it 2 of the exact same ram sticks?

It could also be a compatibility issue. Or a setting in the bios (if your laptop even offers ram speed/timing changes).

It could even be that it’s not seated well.

It’d be helpful if you posted the ram you bought and the exact laptop you have.

Joda
Apr 24, 2010

When I'm off, I just like to really let go and have fun, y'know?

Fun Shoe
I'm sorry, are we just not going to comment on that 117C motherboard reading? Is that normal for that board?

Gearman
Dec 6, 2011

Joda posted:

I'm sorry, are we just not going to comment on that 117C motherboard reading? Is that normal for that board?

Definitely looks odd given the normal temps of everything else.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

Mr Interweb posted:

hey, so i realized when i asked this question back weeks ago, no one responded!

so let's try this again. a little assistance por favor:

does the laptop BIOS have anywhere to set the ram speed? it's not unusual for speeds to be set down to safe defaults after changing to different ram sticks, so you have to go in and set them higher.


Joda posted:

I'm sorry, are we just not going to comment on that 117C motherboard reading? Is that normal for that board?

it's normal for speccy, which is not great as a h/w monitoring app and commonly mis-reads temperatures. so no, nobody comments on obviously impossible temperatures in an operating PC.

Vitamins
May 1, 2012


Butterfly Valley posted:

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/XmH4K4


The stock cooler on the Ryzen is perfectly capable but might be too noisy for your taste. But you can order a mounting bracket from noctua free of charge to fit it to AM4 boards.

That's awesome, thank you. I had no idea about the QLC/TLC difference so that's great to know. Noise isn't a massive concern as I'll most likely be using headphones, but thanks for the tip on the mounting brackets.

sean10mm posted:

If you want to save a few bucks you could go with the B550M Bazooka instead and not really loose anything but I think 2 SATA ports (and maybe fewer or just different USB ports?). The MPG has what looks like better power delivery, but that won't matter for like a 3700X (and probably not even a stock 3950X)

Also for some reason the exact same Crucial memory is sometimes cheaper depending on what color the heat spreader is. :haw:

I don't know anything about that case.

I'll definitely keep my eye on the price for memory, how strange.

The case is one of those cheapish, very flashy RGB ones you see at computer fairs. It's hilariously gaudy and I'm quite attached to it so would like to keep it for this build. Plus it seems to be pretty decent for heat management which is handy.


Joda posted:

I'm sorry, are we just not going to comment on that 117C motherboard reading? Is that normal for that board?

Gearman posted:

Definitely looks odd given the normal temps of everything else.

I'm posting using it so I don't think it's that hot at least, maybe a bug with speccy. :v:

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Any recommendations for a decent power supply? I've got an old system I'm trying to keep alive, but the PSU seems to be choking on the addition of a GTX 970. Not a huge surprise, but anyway here are the specs:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.87 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Intel DH67CF Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR3-1600 CL9 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F4 2 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $379.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-06 11:20 EDT-0400

Looks like I can get a Gigabyte P450B locally or a Thermaltake Smart 500 from Newegg (both) for about $50. Looks like my wattage needs are around 300W, so I imagine 500W would be enough.Totally get not wanting to go too cheap on these things, but if I could keep it around that range, I'd be happy. Don't care too much about modular either, I can deal with some mess.

dedian
Sep 2, 2011

Klyith posted:

Chill guys, the 1660 Super on that list just went out of stock and the $400 price is amazon scalpers. I assume it was a sane price when they picked it and that they won't get bamboozled into paying that.


Confirmed both of these. (The samsung tax has never been worth paying -- what changed is they used to be cheaper than everyone else.)


The 450 Tomahawk max isn't any savings over the Asus, the price for those ramped up since it's such a common go-to. But I also wouldn't pay $130 for any B450 now that various decent 550s are available at the same price.

Right now the hot ticket for a mobo that gets you a lot for the money is the MSI B550M Pro-VDH Wifi if the wifi is useful. And for maximum savings I'd do the MSI B450M Pro-VDH for just $85.


I would not recommend a cheap asrock to a first time builder, if dedian's nephew isn't experienced and doesn't have someone to help out. The Pro4 has no debug leds or other feedback if something goes wrong. That can turn a build with a DOA component, or even something simple like something not fully plugged in, into hours of frustration.

Thanks for everyone's input! Great stuff, building on a tight budget can be interesting. I'll pass all this along. My nephew's built two machines (one with my help, one on his own) and this will be his third - it's actually for his brother. In any case I assume I'll be tech support at some point :)

victrix
Oct 30, 2007


Is it worth waiting for AMD zen3/4k models over an Intel 10900k? I'm building a new 3 year pc soonish, but if the ryzen dumpsters Intel and pcie 4 is relevant I'll wait.

I've used nothing but Intel cpus for years and only just started researching stuff recently.

uXs
May 3, 2005

Mark it zero!

Klyith posted:

a. I think that this particular year the DOA has been up for everything. Sucks when it happens to you, but understandable.

b. User reviews are IMO very dicey for whether something has a real problem trend, or just a bad rep or some other weirdness. For example, my last two mobos have been MSIs that had pretty bad user reviews, and I've seen zero troubles. They were both cheap bargains, and I think they were popular with noobs who maybe didn't have a firm grasp of what they were doing (or a good advice thread). Conversely, when someone buys the gold-plated $400 Biggus Dickus motherboard, they blame anything but the mobo.

I've had another good look and I think I'll replace it with the same motherboard and see if the new one works better. I had a look at MSI and Asus alternatives, but both had things missing that I want. (Things = USB ports. The MSI has less on the rear, and the Asus doesn't have enough in the front.)

One slight worry: I did a doublecheck for memory compatibility, and the memory I have isn't on the list for the motherboard, but when I check the memory site the motherboard IS on the list for the memory?

Apart from the system losing the bios settings every day it works great as well, so I dunno. Could the bios problem be because the memory isn't 100% compatible after all?

Specifics again:

Mobo: X570 Aorus Master
Memory: BL2K16G36C16U4BL
CPU: 3900X

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

victrix posted:

Is it worth waiting for AMD zen3/4k models over an Intel 10900k? I'm building a new 3 year pc soonish, but if the ryzen dumpsters Intel and pcie 4 is relevant I'll wait.

I've used nothing but Intel cpus for years and only just started researching stuff recently.

Don't worry about waiting, get a 3900x or 3950x if you want to throw money at a gaming PC. The Intel is real dumb for the money now IMO.

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

uXs posted:

I've had another good look and I think I'll replace it with the same motherboard and see if the new one works better. I had a look at MSI and Asus alternatives, but both had things missing that I want. (Things = USB ports. The MSI has less on the rear, and the Asus doesn't have enough in the front.)

One slight worry: I did a doublecheck for memory compatibility, and the memory I have isn't on the list for the motherboard, but when I check the memory site the motherboard IS on the list for the memory?

Apart from the system losing the bios settings every day it works great as well, so I dunno. Could the bios problem be because the memory isn't 100% compatible after all?

Specifics again:

Mobo: X570 Aorus Master
Memory: BL2K16G36C16U4BL
CPU: 3900X

Most any memory will work in any board, the QVL is what they've spent the time / money to specifically validate. The benefits to QVL are guaranteed compatibility for unusual configs and timings stored on board ahead of time that can be better than the results of memory training. Corsair does their own validation to try to get people to buy sticks they didn't pay for / have out at the time the motherboard manufacturer did their validation, but it won't have the benefits of preconfigured timings.

BIOS settings wouldn't be in ram since it's wiped whenever the computer is turned off, it's stored on the board itself. Try replacing the CMOS battery.

Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Sep 6, 2020

uXs
May 3, 2005

Mark it zero!

Some Goon posted:

Most any memory will work in any board, the QVL is what they've spent the time / money to specifically validate. The benefits to QVL are guaranteed compatibility for unusual configs and timings stored on board ahead of time that can be better than the results of memory training. Corsair does their own validation to try to get people to buy sticks they didn't pay for / have out at the time the motherboard manufacturer did their validation, but it won't have the benefits of preconfigured timings.

BIOS settings wouldn't be in ram since it's wiped whenever the computer is turned off, it's stored on the board itself. Try replacing the CMOS battery.

I did change it. Didn't solve anything, problem remains.

uXs fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 6, 2020

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Have you tried flashing the bios / updating to most recent version?

uXs
May 3, 2005

Mark it zero!

tater_salad posted:

Have you tried flashing the bios / updating to most recent version?

Yes.

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wearing a lampshade
Mar 6, 2013

i want massive amounts of storage in a windows desktop. some of the seagate stuff caught my eye on pcpartpicker https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ccCD4D/seagate-ironwolf-12tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st12000vn0007
but idk anything about using NAS drives in a desktop. Would it just be simpler to buy this https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JWm323/western-digital-black-6tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-wd6003fzbx?

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