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Fauxtool posted:for a z490 build what are some of the best value 2tb nvme for a mostly gaming use? 2tb sn550
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Feb 17, 2021 20:26
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CloFan posted:Here's a few discords for looking for stock: Thanks! change my name posted:(NYC Microcenter info) Oh, wow, thanks for this--I wouldn't have assumed there were any Microcenters in city limits. It's a 45-minute train trip for me to get to the BK one but now I'm thinking it might be worth it for that 3070. Options: 1. Do what I was originally thinking and try to find a 3060 Ti somewhere for $400-450, and build the original plan for ~$1,170-1,230 (minus monitor). 2. Put together a beefier build that uses a 5600X and a 3070, like this one I threw together, with a B550 mobo and faster/more RAM (but otherwise the same as the above), for ~$1,570 (minus monitor). Is this really $400 better than option 1? 3. Say screw it, go down there and get that 3070 but ignore the 5600Xes available, and just throw it in the original build instead of a 3060 Ti; will net out at ~$1,350 plus monitor. Worth it, just to be done with things? Got some thinking to do...
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Feb 17, 2021 21:11
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Scythe posted:Thanks! You don't need that extra 16GB of RAM. If you want to get better RAM, 16GB 3600 CL16 would be more of an improvement than just doubling the size at the same 3200 speed. In order of importance, getting the GPU regardless of if you want a 3060ti or the 3070 is going to be the most difficult thing, so if it's possible to grab one locally I would definitely do that (assuming it's safe enough to travel there). It's also the first place in your build I'd look to be spending extra, because you'll see the most benefit from it. Then if you want to spend more on top of that I'd go for the 5600x and b550 mobo combo.
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Feb 17, 2021 21:29
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Scythe posted:Thanks! There’s three! Brooklyn one is nice. There’s also Yonkers and queens.
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Feb 17, 2021 23:36
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Anything off about this build? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($0.00) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($141.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1146.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-17 20:57 EST-0500 Thinking about maybe bumping to the 2tb ssd or grabbing another non-m.2 ssd. I've got some space in my budget if there are any glaring holes.
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Feb 18, 2021 03:11
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Blinkz0rz posted:Anything off about this build? 32gb is overkill for gaming. Unless you have a specific use case.
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Feb 18, 2021 03:24
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Blinkz0rz posted:Anything off about this build?
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Feb 18, 2021 03:26
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:32gb is overkill for gaming. Unless you have a specific use case. 32 GB came in handy with the HZD port (because the port was awful). It can’t hurt if you can get it without spending an arm and a leg.
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Feb 18, 2021 03:40
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Blinkz0rz posted:Thinking about maybe bumping to the 2tb ssd or grabbing another non-m.2 ssd. I've got some space in my budget if there are any glaring holes. That board has two m.2 slots. I don't think there's any reason to prefer a SATA drive over another m.2 NVME. The price is basically the same, and it saves you the trouble of wiring a SATA drive. Of course, if you're going for spinning platters because you need a fuckton of storage, that's a different story.
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Feb 18, 2021 03:42
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Ugly In The Morning posted:32 GB came in handy with the HZD port (because the port was awful). It can’t hurt if you can get it without spending an arm and a leg. Yeah once I get my stimulus I'm probably gonna take the opportunity to upgrade my ram to 32gb of whatever highest clock speed my mobo can support within reason pretty much for edge cases like that (and MSFS2020, which is also driving my want for a new 3000 series card pretty hard) at which point I'm going to be bottlenecked by my cpu and then I guess I'm just gonna build a whole new rig at that point lmao
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Feb 18, 2021 04:12
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So it seems this build is just out to frustrate me. I got motherboard on the box, cpu, cooler, ram, m.2 ssd, and gpu all installed. Power supply is chillin on the table next to it with the motherboard power cable and cpu power cable hooked up as well as the gpu power cable hooked up. Monitor is plugged in via display port and a usb mouse is plugged in. Powered up the system and the little LED diode thing lights up next to DRAM on the motherboard and the LED readout thing says "c5" briefly before it settles on "0d". Pics:    Tried with all four dimms in, then just two of the dimms, then the other two dimms, same result every time. Anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? Edit: BIOS was flashed prior to these attempts to boot. Quick refresher of parts: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-E GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Storage: ADATA XPG GAMMIX S50 Lite 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB Founders Edition Video Card Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor Pahonix fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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Feb 18, 2021 05:49
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Pahonix posted:So it seems this build is just out to frustrate me. I got motherboard on the box, cpu, cooler, ram, m.2 ssd, and gpu all installed. Power supply is chillin on the table next to it with the motherboard power cable and cpu power cable hooked up as well as the gpu power cable hooked up. Monitor is plugged in via display port and a usb mouse is plugged in. Did you flash the BIOS first before doing the build? Likely necessary to support a Zen3 chip unless your mobo box specifically had a sticker on it to indicate it is already good to go (most aren’t due to manufacturing lead times) Here’s the guide of how to use the bios flashback feature on your board: https://www.asus.com/global/support/FAQ/1012815/ You’ll basically want to remove everything from the mobo, including the CPU, and only have power plugged in to do the usb-based bios flash operation Or if you have an older zen chip you can install briefly to get it to boot and flash the bios that way
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Feb 18, 2021 06:35
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So I am in the process of planning out a new PC build. Plan on going with a AMD Ryzen 5 3600, B550 board, etc. How much RAM do I need? I don't really play a lot of games anymore, and will be using a lovely old card I have for now, an will buy something eventually when they are in stock again. I might do some gaming at some point. PC will mostly be for playing guitar through a DAW and also used as a plex sever in the house and general use. I was leaning towards 32 gigs, but that might be overkill? Thoughts?
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Feb 18, 2021 06:39
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Malaria posted:So I am in the process of planning out a new PC build. You’d probably be fine with 8gb, tbh. 16 is the sweet spot. 32 if you have a workload that involves a lot of VMs and IDEs or like, after effects work. Usually if you need 32, you already know. Doesn’t sound like that stuff would require or benefit from 32gb of RAM.
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Feb 18, 2021 06:42
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Malaria posted:So I am in the process of planning out a new PC build. It depends on how you run your plex server. If you run stuff like sonarr/jackett or others on top of plex, you’ll bump up against 16GB while gaming. Especially if the server will actively transcode while you’re playing. If you don’t game much, 16GB is probably fine. You can always bump up to 32gb later. I would avoid 8GB if you run that stuff 24/7 in the background.
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Feb 18, 2021 07:33
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vanilla slimfast posted:Did you flash the BIOS first before doing the build? Likely necessary to support a Zen3 chip unless your mobo box specifically had a sticker on it to indicate it is already good to go (most aren’t due to manufacturing lead times)
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Feb 18, 2021 12:23
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Try one DIMM for fun and try in each of the slots. Do you have any known good RAM you can try? If you try with known good RAM and it still doesn't work, try flashing BIOS again. Then it's probably RMA time.
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Feb 18, 2021 15:38
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Try one DIMM for fun and try in each of the slots. Do you have any known good RAM you can try? If you try with known good RAM and it still doesn't work, try flashing BIOS again. Then it's probably RMA time. I'll try one at a time for fun, like you said, but I don't have high hopes in that department. Unfortunately, I don't have any other RAM to try - this is my first build in over six years. There's one person I know that I can ask that's a long shot he might have some lying around... it's worth a shot. Then I'll reach out to ASUS and see what they say.
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Feb 18, 2021 16:23
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X posting this question from the SFF thread Random question. Does anyone know if the orientation of the Scythe Fuma2 actually make a difference. Not taking about intake/exhaust. But the actual orientation of the cooler. One side has more fins than the other and has a cut out for large ram modules. Should that always be on the ram side or does it not really matter?
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Feb 18, 2021 16:42
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CyberPingu posted:X posting this question from the SFF thread Unless you need the ram clearance, and as long as the base is symmetrical, it shouldn't matter. More important is which way the fan is blowing and on which side of the cooler it is mounted. My understanding is that the ideal setup is to have the fan(s) pushing air through the cooler towards the exhaust fan on the back of the case.
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Feb 18, 2021 17:12
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Unless you need the ram clearance, and as long as the base is symmetrical, it shouldn't matter. More important is which way the fan is blowing and on which side of the cooler it is mounted. In SFF cases like the NR200 CyberPingu has, it can be beneficial to flip the fans and run them in the opposite direction, especially with an FE 3080 like I have which dumps hot air into the part of the case the CPU cooler would otherwise be sucking air from. In the stock configuration there's no room for a rear case fan, although if Pingu does what he's suggesting then you could flip the whole cooler around and because of the asymmetric design of the heatsinks, you'd then have room for the rear fan on the cooler right up against the case and also room to stick another fan on the heatsink on the opposite side. It's not really necessary though, I've not seen my 5600x go above 70 with my Fuma 2. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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Feb 18, 2021 17:17
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Yeah currently my 3900X doesn't go above 64C but I have an extra fan kicking around and if I reversed the orientation of the cooler and not fans I could fit the extra fan in.
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Feb 18, 2021 17:31
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Speaking of CPU temps, since Windows 10 inexplicably doesn't seem to have that built in (unless I'm just missing something), are there any favored apps for that purpose that you all use? Ideally, the simpler the better.
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Feb 18, 2021 18:23
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CyberPingu posted:X posting this question from the SFF thread I don’t remember the answer, but Gamers nexus covers it in their video
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Feb 18, 2021 18:40
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Sarcastro posted:Speaking of CPU temps, since Windows 10 inexplicably doesn't seem to have that built in (unless I'm just missing something), are there any favored apps for that purpose that you all use? Ideally, the simpler the better. Hwinfo or core temp Or if you have a Ryzen just use Ryzen Master I have hwinfo hooked up to rainmeter on a small rasp pi screen 
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Feb 18, 2021 18:52
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CyberPingu posted:Hwinfo or core temp This rules, is there a tutorial anywhere?
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Feb 18, 2021 18:58
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change my name posted:This rules, is there a tutorial anywhere? I can't remember what one I used but this basically covers how to do it https://forum.rainmeter.net/viewtopic.php?t=21939 That thread describes creating your own skin but I didn't do that I used the round meter skin which is pretty easily available Oh the artists page has a better setup guide https://www.deviantart.com/uddegani/art/Round-Meter-1-1-495793457 CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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Feb 18, 2021 19:45
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CyberPingu posted:Or if you have a Ryzen just use Ryzen Master Well shoot, I do, and that's perfect. Thanks. quote:I have hwinfo hooked up to rainmeter on a small rasp pi screen That's awesome, and I had considered at some point doing something like that if I could find the right tutorials, but at least right now the way my desk/case are configured the glass panel side isn't visible anyway, so it would be pointless. I do have a tiny little Pi 3 screen (and Pi3) sitting around, so eventually this would be a very fun project.
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Feb 18, 2021 22:44
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I'm starting to spec out a new gaming build. Apologies for a question that I'm sure has been asked and answered already (but not in the last few pages, at least): For a build that I'll pretty much only ever use for gaming, is there any major advantage to a Ryzen 9 5900X vs a Ryzen 7 5800X? The $100 difference isn't a huge deal to me but it seems a bit easier to find a 5800X and if it wouldn't have much impact on gaming performance, I'll just grab whichever I find first. In case it impacts the answer, I'm planning on pairing it with an RTX 3080 and 32:9 1440p monitor.
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Feb 19, 2021 00:47
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Lawen posted:I'm starting to spec out a new gaming build. Apologies for a question that I'm sure has been asked and answered already (but not in the last few pages, at least): No, there's not really any noticeable difference iirc
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Feb 19, 2021 00:50
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Lawen posted:I'm starting to spec out a new gaming build. Apologies for a question that I'm sure has been asked and answered already (but not in the last few pages, at least): If you're only using it for gaming, common consensus is that the 5600X is superior and put the savings towards a better GPU. I'm not sure you'll see much, if any, performance increase in gaming from the 5600X to the 5900X. https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2674?vs=2676 For gaming, they are virtually identical. In many games, the 5600X actually outperforms the 5900X!
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Feb 19, 2021 01:03
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Great, thank you both. I'll cross the 5900 off the list and start hunting for the 5600. Looks like my Microcenter might have them in stock.
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Feb 19, 2021 01:11
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Lawen posted:For a build that I'll pretty much only ever use for gaming, is there any major advantage to a Ryzen 9 5900X vs a Ryzen 7 5800X? The $100 difference isn't a huge deal to me but it seems a bit easier to find a 5800X and if it wouldn't have much impact on gaming performance, I'll just grab whichever I find first. A resounding no. Actually the 5800x is the worst value Zen 3 CPU. They all perform very similarly at higher resolutions, with the difference being low single digit fps. For pure gaming builds the 5600x is the best value processor right now bar none. The extra $150 for two cores in the 5800x doesn't really make sense when the 5900x is another $100 for four more cores on top of that.
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Feb 19, 2021 01:16
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How hot does the back of a mobo get? I'm waiting for my case to come, but I want to test out the components with enough time left in microcenter's return policy if I have issues. Is it ok to boot it on the static-free bag? What's good practices?
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Feb 19, 2021 02:06
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Siroc posted:How hot does the back of a mobo get? I'm waiting for my case to come, but I want to test out the components with enough time left in microcenter's return policy if I have issues. Is it ok to boot it on the static-free bag? What's good practices? Heat isn't an issue but I was told not to do that because the outer surface of the bag might be conductive, but some googling finds posts from people with specialised ESD training who say it doesn't matter. There's also many posts going into great detail about how we could be constantly causing micro damage to components without realising it and the only way to truly avoid that is using an anti static mat and an anti static wrist band. I doubt everyone here does that with their builds though, and general advice in your situation is yeah sure absolutely build on the box first, just regularly ground yourself by touching a radiator or sth and don't do the moonwalk in rubber shoes on a carpet
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Feb 19, 2021 02:20
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Siroc posted:How hot does the back of a mobo get? I'm waiting for my case to come, but I want to test out the components with enough time left in microcenter's return policy if I have issues. Is it ok to boot it on the static-free bag? What's good practices? Heat is not an issue as said. Outside of the ESD bag is not ESD safe, only the inside is. That being said, best thing to do is build on a cardboard box. Tear up a shipping box or use the mobo box. Ideally you don’t build on carpet, and just try to discharge by grabbing something metal first if you can.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:04
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hey, wondering if anyone can help with this. i've tried googling a lot and cant find anyone with the same issue. Just installed an m.2 drive - the first in my machine. Isnt showing up in windows, but does show up in the BIOS - pretty much every google result for this exact situation says to go to disk management and format it, and every OP thanks them and moves on - but mine does not show up there. I took a look in device manager and when the SSD is not plugged in, this mysterious 'pci device' is not listed. So I have to assume that's the m.2 drive, and windows hasnt got a loving clue what it is.  Any ideas? I'm on a ASRock Z270 & it's a samsung 970 evo.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:23
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cubicle gangster posted:hey, wondering if anyone can help with this. i've tried googling a lot and cant find anyone with the same issue. Are you really sure it’s not in risk management? Can we get screen shots of that? It’ll only show up in the bottom section with the white and blue bars, and not in the drive list up top. Additionally, you could try installing Samsung’s driver and software and try formatting it from there.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:30
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It was the drivers! Samsung has drivers for their drives I guess. spent hours on that. thought I had it in the wrong slot at first so moved it, then realized that was the wrong slot and moved it back.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:36
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I had a similar problem for awhile and I think it was some kind of driver issue as well, although I forget exactly how I fixed it.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:41
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