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If PC Parts Picker is showing a ~364W estimate, can I safely go for a 450W PSU? EVGA 450 GD, in this case
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Apr 28, 2020 22:19
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 09:50 |
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:If PC Parts Picker is showing a ~364W estimate, can I safely go for a 450W PSU? EVGA 450 GD, in this case Quoting myself just in case this got missed. This is the last thing I need before finishing my build.
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Apr 29, 2020 00:15
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Klyith posted:Um, maybe? PCpartspicker's watt estimates often seem a bit low -- they say a 3600 draws 65W, which is the sticker spec but the CPU will definitely go over that with a good cooler. If you turn on PBO it'll go up to 100W or more easy. They give every video card the power draw of the base AMD/Nvidia model, when many of the pre-OCed models are easily 10-15% higher. OTOH you'll rarely max out both the CPU and GPU in real world activity, so the potential peak power use being 50W higher than the estimate isn't a normal occurrence. Thanks for the insight, it’s definitely a budget build plus a non-US market with fewer options. I’ll shop around a bit more and see if I can find a 550w option for peace of mind, though.
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Apr 29, 2020 00:27
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Klyith posted:What's the actual CPU / GPU components? I may be able to give you a stronger OK with that. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6h8Xp8
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Apr 29, 2020 00:47
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Klyith posted:Ok that's got much better thumbs up. A 2600X and a 580 are much closer to their max, versus something like a 3600 + 5700XT that also produces about 370 watts in their estimate but could get to the mid-400s with some OC. Thanks a million for all your analysis. I'll price check a bit more to see if I can find a decent 550 psu and make my decision. And yeah, I'm getting the Q300L, PC Parts Picker just didn't have that model in their DB. It was sort of a blind pick so I'm glad it was the right one!
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Apr 29, 2020 02:44
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Hey, I finally got my PC built and I'm running an Asus b450 board. Should I just let Windows handle driver stuff or do I download Asus' utility? Edit: also, my case has two front panel USB ports. One USB 3.0 and the other 2.0. To USB front panel connector is a thick, insulated cable for the USB 3 connector and a cheapish USB 2.0 connector which spliced off at the very end. Both are connected. Long story short, anything plugged into the USB 3 front panel port will immediately hard lock the computer. USB 2 runs fine. This is most likely a short somewhere on the front panel, right? dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 20:12
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Mu Zeta posted:Just find the website for your motherboard and download the drivers individually from there. You typically only need to download the BIOS updates and AMD chipset updates. Though sometimes windows does the chipset automatically. I downloaded and installed the latest chipset drivers available on AMD's website but if I go to Device Manager it still shows the ones Windows installed? 
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Jun 13, 2020 22:19
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Klyith posted:that's what it is supposed to use, you only need a special driver for storage if you're using RAID mode instead of ahci. Got it, thanks! It seems to be specifically an issue with the USB 3 port so I'll re set the cable and see if it still happens and if not I'll just unplug it and tape it shut for safety.
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Jun 13, 2020 23:05
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I built my new PC about a month ago and since day 1 I've been getting very random hard locks where the screen just goes to black (monitor light starts blinking) and I need to reset the PC. Occasionally the Radeon Settings app will give me a message about my tuning profile being reset to default, but this has happened even with the default settings. All signs point to something weird with the GPU, but this has happened both while at the Windows desktop and while running videogames so it doesn't look like it's a load issue. I'd say the frequency is about once a day, on average. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this? Just re set everything and pray?
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Jul 2, 2020 23:59
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Bofast posted:What graphics card do you have? It's a Radeon RX 580 so same-ish family, which doesn't bode well. Hopefully it won't get to that because the RMA process would be a bitch and I don't have a spare. MikeC posted:Are your Radeon drivers up to date? Radeon drivers were pretty bad up until Christmas time and I had these issues myself until then though not to the same regularity. You can try reinstalling regardless. I'll check this, thanks!
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Jul 3, 2020 14:13
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Bofast posted:Yeah, I hope you don't need to do that. Woof, I'd never seen the reliability history, mine's pretty bad. I've tried out a tweak suggested by some rando on the AMD forums who had a similar issue, we'll see if it works and if not I'll start looking into an RMA. Thanks again.
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Jul 3, 2020 20:16
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Hey, in June I put together my computer: Asus B450M-A, Ryzen 2600x, Asrock RX 580 8GB. Day 1 I had issues with the monitor randomly losing signal and the computer needing a hard reset about once a day or so. It was looking like I might have to RMA the card. This was happening with the latest drivers and the AMD Radeon software, both with stock settings and with undervolt tweaks, in games or at the Windows desktop, didn't matter. About 3 weeks ago, I ended up using the AMD cleanup utility, removed the drivers, and instead of downloading the latest from the AMD site, I just used whatever Windows installed (version 26.20.12028.2 according to the Device Manager). Computer has been rock solid since then, both in and out of the same games. Now that I'm fairly sure that this is a driver issue, I was wondering if you guys had any sort of recommendations on how to start progressively installing newer drivers and failing back to a known good configuration if I start running into the same issues. As much as I'd love to just keep everything as-is, I'm running into issues in some games that are apparently fixed in later revisions, and also ideally I'd like to undervolt the card since it runs way too hot at stock.
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Aug 12, 2020 03:52
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Friend of mine wants me to help him build a PC that'll be able to run Microsoft Flight Simulator X at max settings at 1080p. Would something like this work? I've checked out some YouTube videos of people running similar setups and they were getting 30-50fps which seems playable. I understand that the new Nvidia cards are coming out and he'll likely want to upgrade down the line. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($69.95 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($49.89 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($118.95 @ Amazon) Total: $868.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-20 18:52 EDT-0400 The Q300L case I chose because I know that he won't be OCing and he'll appreciate the more discreet form factor, but it's not really a requirement.
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Aug 21, 2020 00:09
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 09:50 |
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Have been helping a friend build his first PC. I had him buy an MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI and a Ryzen 5 3600. The whole thing was a complete shitshow. Computer wouldn't POST and kept throwing a CPU error. I had him take every component out, put everything together outside the case to rule out shorts, check the cpu for bent pins, nothing. Turns out that it's a known issue with the board. If you're lucky, flashing the BIOS will solve it but it's not a sure thing. He got a Gigabyte Aorus and stuff is working fine now. Figured I'd give a heads for anyone with a similar issue since I've seen the board in several people's builds.
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Sep 6, 2020 19:55
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