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Ak Gara posted:Since I'm thinking of getting an Aquaero 6 I kinda regret buying my D5 Vario's. Sure I could set-and-forget but if I do need to change speed, (such as filling the loop) it'll be a pain, as the bottom of the pump would be quite close to a panel leaving only a small gap to try and turn the dial. I have the ekwb D5, it isn't the only PWM controlled D5 out there, but it is competent and as reasonably priced as anything ekwb sells. It is silent at 1800 RPM (~35% throttle) and has plenty of flow at that speed for a CPU+GPU+single radiator loop. 100% throttle is about 4500 RPM and is audible but not terrible as long as you don't vary the throttle any (its sound is most noticeable when it is changing speeds). If you are optimizing for noise it is definitely preferable to slow it down to <2000 RPM and just keep it there, also the pump will last longer at those lower throttles anyway. The temperature difference between 100% and 35% is about 1C on the GPU or CPU at power virus load levels, it has no impact on the coolant temp at any loading or the block temps at lower loads.
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Nov 12, 2019 23:37
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In your situation I wouldn't spend any money on a 7700k, if you are looking for more performance you won't find anything worthwhile in another quad core. Just dig in your heels and hold on with your 6600 until you can get more cores. I had a 7700k and it was choking badly in newer games with just a vanilla GTX 1080.
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Nov 17, 2019 22:09
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Basically freesync (original) has one major advantage: it costs nothing. Which is precisely how much the overwhelming majority of display manufacturers spent on implementing it with predictably horrible results. AMD quickly wised up and launched freesync 2 which while still "free" has an actual certification process with required quality testing before a display can claim to support it. So a freesync 2 certified display is almost guaranteed to work fine with a nvidia gpu in gsync mode and the majority of them are probably passing gsync compatible certification as well. A friend of mine has a reasonable freesync monitor (40-144 Hz range) and it works on his GTX 1080 card with no issues.
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Nov 24, 2019 01:42
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There is always a way to disable RGB on GPUs without installing software: find the RGB header under the shroud and physically disconnect it. Unfortunately motherboards often have the RGB soldered directly to the board so that isn't an option for them, but I haven't encountered one yet that couldn't be turned off in BIOS.
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Nov 30, 2019 13:25
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Upgrading your PC for games that aren't even out yet is just not a good idea, nobody has any real idea what the game will ultimately need until it is out and even then it usually takes a several months for most games to get patches and gpu driver assists to really shake out the final performance. That being said, there is a safer order to upgrade components based on the expected lifespan of the component and how it impacts the rest of the system. I'd say in almost all cases you should start with the display, it is really a pace setter for basically everything else. It is why one of the most important questions in this thread is "if you are gaming what is your monitor resolution and refresh rate". So if I were you, I would definitely hit up the monitor/display thread and figure out what sort of target you are going to be aiming for once you get to actually upgrading the rest of the system. Then save up and come back when you have the games you want to play on the display you want to play them with. Odds are it will be a lot easier to make the decision then because you will have all the information you will need.
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Dec 1, 2019 04:18
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Rolo posted:-I used to build PC’s but it’s been almost 20 years. For reference, my last one was a bleeding edge Athlon XP with a Radeon 9800. Has much changed with respect to assembly? PC assembly has changed very little in the last 20 years, mainly fewer sharp edges and modular PSU cables. The mechanics of doing it haven't changed, but the products are more polished and the quality of life is higher.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:28
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PirateBob posted:Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf. If it shows "Good" then the drive's built in SMART monitor has not detected any anomalies, but if it says caution or warning you should immediately back up your data and replace the disk. If you mouse hover over a caution or warning indicator it will tell you what parameters are out of the threshold and show their values. To really get full usefulness out of it though, make it auto start with windows, set it to auto-refresh all drives every 1440 minutes (once a day) and leave it running in the background permanently. It will provide early warning via a sound and notification on most impending mechanical drive failures and 90% of the time will allow you to back up all the data then replace the drive yourself if you act quickly. It also tracks all the drive parameters over time and can graph changes, although there will always be cases where a drive just fails abruptly without warning and crystal disk info can't help there. SAS is for Serial Attached SCSI, this is exclusively an enterprise class feature and does not work on consumer motherboards/controllers.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:16
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dads friend steve posted:My understanding as a (bad) software engineer that doesn’t typically work on operating system stuff is: the software you run is allowed to kick off as many threads as it wants. For example, web servers will typically maintain a pool of threads for serving incoming requests. The OS is responsible for scheduling those threads to actually be run on a core. So my guess is a chip having X cores but 2X threads allows an OS to schedule 2X threads to run simultaneously instead of X
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Dec 8, 2019 04:26
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Stickman posted:Pretty much. If it's primarily for gaming, the difference between loading times on an NVMe SSD and a SATA SSD is usually tiny, and <10% at most, with the exception of Doom 2016's initial load at startup, which involves sequentially processing a very large file. An NVMe drive can be worth it if it's not much more expensive than good SATA drives, but I wouldn't pay much more unless you have a workload that can take advantage of it. Yeah this, I have a fancy Samsung 970 Pro 1 TB and Doom 2016s ~5 GB sequential startup read is the only ordinary thing where I can tell the difference between it and a SATA drive. Instead of ~500 MB/sec = 10 seconds it goes at 1.8 GB/sec = 3 seconds. The rest of the startup and level loads still take just as much time though, so the overall difference is minor.
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Dec 12, 2019 12:58
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maniacripper posted:Quick question as im about to put together a PC and as it stands I'll have a 3700x with a gtx970. As others in this thread have said, my card is going to be my bottleneck, but does the jump to a 2070 Super make sense at the moment? Well, I don't see the price/performance ratio improving significantly in the next year, and there is nothing officially on the radar for a 2020 release from nvidia but that could change at any time. If you have games that would benefit from a 2070 Super now, I don't think it is a particularly bad time to get one. I think it is highly unlikely nvidia is going to do nothing with 7nm in 2020, but I don't expect whatever they do with it to be a particularly compelling upgrade for an existing 2070 Super owner when it does happen. Just like as an owner of a 1080 I found myself pretty much completely disinterested in the 2000 series, not enough performance uplift for the price, especially since almost everything I play is already pushing triple digit FPS at the highest presets.
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Dec 22, 2019 05:03
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I have some huge tube of arctic silver that is like 20 years old and still obviously works and keeps CPUs cool. It probably helps that I keep the cap on the tube and the whole tube is in a sealed bag, but on the rare occasions when I pull an old system apart it is still greasy and flowing even after 3-6 years of being installed on heavily used systems. Its arctic silver III, which I don't know if you can even buy anymore.
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Dec 31, 2019 13:16
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Hyperlynx posted:Hullo thread. Are you sure it is the motherboard and not the PSU? Random shutdowns can be attributed to either one, but the PSU is cheaper and easier to replace. And even if it is the motherboard, a 6600k era PSU is getting up there in years so if you are swapping the motherboard you would probably be wise to swap the PSU with it anyway.
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Jan 25, 2020 13:19
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Hyperlynx posted:So, I ended up finding a motherboard I liked that's compatible with my CPU! I realised you can search partpicker by chipset. So, I got the list of compatible chipsets off of Intel's site, searched for only those, and it came up with https://www.itspot.com.au/asus-prime-b250m-a-motherboard-p750513.html for only $112! Ah, looks like you covered all your bases then. Perhaps examine the old motherboard for bulging capacitors or some other sign of failure in its voltage regulation circuits, either that or there is a failing connection or developing short somewhere that is occasionally tripping the protection mechanisms of the board/PSU. Actually that train of thought does bring up something worth investigating: Check your house wiring, make sure everything is grounded properly and the hots and neutrals are all in order. A short circuit on the motherboard or in the PSU would normally not damage drives because it would just take the "shortest" path to ground, but if your house wiring isn't grounding properly then you could have weird stuff like stray voltage in the motherboard/case grounding plane working its way through SATA cables and in to all sorts of places that would normally be protected. If your house wiring doesn't check out, call an electrician immediately and unplug any affected devices because it is a fire hazard.
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Jan 26, 2020 01:57
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MarsellusWallace posted:Easy free option: check if your surge protector has a ground fault indicator. It might just straight up tell you if there's a problem. Easy enough to check with a multimeter jammed into an outlet as well, if you've got one available anyway. Yeah this, or go to the nearest hardware store and there are probably outlet testers for dirt cheap that you can plug in to any outlet which will tell you if its all wired correctly. In the US these devices cost like $1 and require zero skill or understanding of electricity to use, just plug it in and compare the lights on it to what the sticker on the side says.
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Jan 26, 2020 22:03
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Moola posted:hey guys please call me a dumbass If you have enough PCIe plugs out of the PSU to wire up the GPU, you're fine, plug it and go. The kind of overclocking, tuning, and expensive cooling setup required to make a single RTX 2070 system draw close to 500W is well beyond the ability of a person concerned about a 10% difference in PSU specs.
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Feb 15, 2020 20:19
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I've had 3 PSU failures within my own systems over the last ~10 years, and in all 3 cases the rest of the machine survived without any lasting ill effects. One a always on PC (acting as a router) stopped responding and then failed to reboot/power on after being manually shut down, replaced the PSU and it was live again and is still operating today. The other two required multiple attempts to get powered on in the first place but seemed to operate with normally once they were actually booted, and again, one of them is still in service (other was an old C2D system that was retired in favor of an i7). Granted in all three of these machines I replaced the PSU within hours or even minutes of symptoms appearing because I always keep at least one new-in-original-packaging spare in the "tech supplies closet". But just the fact that I keep at a spare unused PSU in my closet should be a good indicator of my opinion about PSU reliability. At least I've only ever paid for one spare, all the other iterations have been free replacements on the original 10 year warranties. When one burns up, I put in the spare, then call in the warranty on the failed one and eventually a replacement comes in and becomes the new spare. The current spare is an EVGA Supernova G2 850w, its original stopped powering on the machine early last year about 3 years into its 10 year warranty and EVGA sent me a brand new still in the shrink wrap replacement. I've never had trouble with getting a PSU RMA approved either, there is never any resistance when you tell them "I swapped it for a spare PSU and the computer started working again.", the next email you get is the RMA approval. I have seen OEM PSUs from the likes of gateway/dell/etc pretty much explode a motherboard or two before though, like nearly to the point of smoke coming from the chipset.
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Feb 16, 2020 15:09
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GruntyThrst posted:Oh. That's kind of a bummer. Does explain why I didn't feel like g-sync made any difference whatsoever, though. I've been running a high Hz gsync monitor right next to a plain old fixed 60 Hz monitor for like 5 years and have never encountered the issues those two are describing. Through multiple combinations of video cards, monitors and connections, and it has always just worked. No idea what they are doing wrong, because I've tried a lot of combinations and generally failed to get it to misbehave. Like the rare occasions where I've gotten gsync to quit working were when I cloned an output of one of the monitors like it was going to a projector (so three monitors, 1 and 2+3). And it can also sort of stop working if you play a video or some other hardware accelerated thing on the 60 Hz display while trying to play a high Hz game on the primary, and even then it still works but is capped to 60 Hz.
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Mar 5, 2020 03:02
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Klyith posted:The issues with multiple monitors are strictly with different refresh rates. Also the root of these problems tends to be with the DWM, the part of windows that draws all the 2d windows and desktop. DWM is perfectly fine with different resolutions, refresh rate is what it wasn't really designed to handle. This is why the weirdness is on both nvidia and AMD, though different flavors of weirdness with each. Incorrect: in Windows 8+ there is no escape from DWM. It is always running, even when you have an app in "exclusive fullscreen" it is still running inside DWM. When an application requests exclusive fullscreen Windows says "Okay, here you go." and DWM promptly serves it up a nice borderless fullscreen just like everyone else gets. It is all faked/emulated in software, it has been this way for like a decade already: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/compatibility/desktop-window-manager-is-always-on
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Mar 5, 2020 16:18
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I have a 9900k with a GTX 1080 and I have a friend who has a 3700x but also a GTX 1080, we ran a relatively CPU intensive game benchmark on comically low resolution (800x600) in order to isolate the differences between our CPUs. Turns out at best I could pull about 160 FPS average in a given benchmark while he was pulling about 150. Our minimums were practically the same (110 vs 107), so literally unless you are pushing a low resolution across a very high Hz display with some very specific lightly threaded games there is no point at all to spending extra on a 9700k/9900k. In the average game the difference between these CPUs doesn't start to show up till well past 100 FPS even in the most CPU intensive titles, for the most part any GPU is going to be the limit once you switch to 4k and even if the GPU isn't the limit a 60 Hz display will be. I'd say the only real advantage I had with the 9900k over my friends 3700x is it took him about two weekends worth of tweaking with a memory calculator to get his performance to measure up where mine was 1 minute of "set power limits to infinity and toggle XMP on".
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Apr 4, 2020 12:40
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I had a 7700k (4.5 all core delidded liquid metal on custom water cooling) with a GTX 1080 and in newer games it was choking hard on that CPU. 4/8 just doesn't cut it in well threaded titles which are growing more common. I switched to a 9900k and other than ubisoft quality games it gave me a significant bump in minimums and smoothed out the frame time variance in several newer titles. (Off the top of my head shadow of the tomb raider doubled its minimum framerate to the point where the minimum on the 9900k was higher than the average on the 7700k.)
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Apr 19, 2020 19:57
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HerniaFlange posted:Okay, I now have a stupid beginner question for the modular power supply: My video card says I need to have both the 8 pin and 6 pin power inputs filled, which I can do, but I noticed the cable has connections for two separate 6+2 plugs. I have one going in the 8 pin jack, could I use the other for the 6 pin jack too, or would I be better to have a separate cable going in there from the supply? My main concern is that I don't know if the wattage for the output is split between the two outputs or if they share the same output section of the supply. I'm assuming they share it but I've also made mistakes with assumptions and power supplies in the past so I want to be sure.
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Apr 25, 2020 17:40
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On the newegg subject: One way to avoid some of their bad policies is to buy from them over ebay.
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May 3, 2020 16:38
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National Parks posted:If I have a CPU cooler that is 158.5 mm high, and my case spec says it can fit a max height of 159 mm, is that playing with fire? Or is there a buffer space to make it work? I mean I've stuck a cooler that was something like 165mm into a case with a 160mm max and it worked, I just had to bend the side panel out carefully when closing everything up. I replaced it with a cooler that actually fit within the confines of that case a couple days later, but it didn't bother anything other than looking stupid with a bulge in the side panel.
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May 10, 2020 22:15
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IuniusBrutus posted:I'm building a PC inside of Sliger Cerberus, and I wouldn't mind using a 240mm AIO due to layout concerns. I ran a corsair AIO for years without ever plugging in the USB, just plugged the PWM fans straight into the CPU header. It works fine, even if it isn't quite as optimal as controlling the fans based on the coolant temperature which may not even be a feature of most AIOs anyway.
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Jun 6, 2020 17:47
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Klyith posted:The games that currently demonstrate this are held back by 4 cores CPUs without hyperthreading. 4 core 8 thread CPUs are still fine for all games. The 7700k is good for above 100fps average in most games, and the ones that it can't max out 144 are difficult for any CPU to get 144 in. Check these two reviews, which include a 7700k and show it still doing just fine. Yeah, generally this. The 7700k remains competent in most titles but won't hold up forever, I had one personally and I can only name one game that really bottlenecked on it: shadow of the tomb raider. Upgrading to a 9900k brought my minimums up about 50% in that game, and pretty much only that game. That is a nearly stock 9900k (unlimited turbo time) vs a 4.5 all core turbo (also unlimited time) on the 7700k. Literally if I cranked it down to CPU benchmark levels to get rid of the GPU bottlenecks (800x600 with no AA) the 9900k straight up doubled the performance and was still waiting on the GTX 1080 occasionally. That game gobbles up threads like mad and does real work with them, but it is currently more the exception than the rule.
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Jun 22, 2020 02:11
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Mu Zeta posted:I wouldn't be surprised if Windows goes free soon.
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Jun 27, 2020 12:23
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apropos man posted:Does anyone else use Argus Monitor for a no-frills experience at controlling your PC fans? The 3 year subscription only makes sense if you change your computer every year to brand new hardware that requires a new version to control. I would have gotten Argus Monitor myself after Speedfan stopped updating, but instead I found out my motherboard has two thermristor headers, so I stuck a thermristor plug in my water cooling loop and slaved the fans/pump speed to the coolant temperature. Most effective fan control ever and it is a stupidly simple linear curve in BIOS. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jun 30, 2020 |
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Jun 30, 2020 22:03
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PageMaster posted:This is a pretty open-ended question but hoping I might get some ideas from some folks' favorites here: are there any good recommendations for well built and functional cases that don't look too "gamer?" Starting a new build and will be planning the rest of my components around the case, but I've found a lot of the recommendations from google top 10 lists are big on either glass panels LED lighting everywhere, or oddly shaped fronts/tops (meshify and some phanteks/coolermaster fronts/tops come to mind). My last case was a silverstone case that was just a silver steel box with tons of ventilation and ports and worked great. I'm not worried about price (not necessarily looking for lowest budget), but would like something sturdy and well-built with good air cooling potential that looks sharp. Corsair Obsidian 750D is a giant monolith with a nice brushed metal front, very clean design with no unicorn vomit modes. But it is a full tower, so its pretty bulky, but that also makes it really easy and nice to work in.
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Jul 11, 2020 19:40
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LionEyez posted:My current gaming pc is about 4 years old and I'm getting the feeling it's dying. Won't hurt to download a copy of Crystal Disk Info and get a readout of the SMART status of the drive. Load it up and it gives you a quick Good/Caution/Warning indicator for all connected drives.
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Jul 12, 2020 12:23
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tuyop posted:What do you all do to vent these sick gaming rigs? The computer is in the bedroom and it’s just like a 400w heater at load, right? And the bedroom is obviously hotter because of this.
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Jul 31, 2020 01:32
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PageMaster posted:are there any good trustworthy PC component retailers online besides newegg or amazon to look into? Trying to get a Noctua cooler, but they're out of stock on amazon, and newegg sellers are charging 75-100 dollars for shipping. Microcenter is also out of stock, and I'd like to avoid going down to some of the lower listed options on google just yet.. https://www.bhphotovideo.com has some noctua coolers in stock, don't know if its the specific one you are looking for though. I've ordered some random stuff from them before (have a batch of like 4 cyperpower battery backups that I got on a really good sale for instance). They have been around long enough to earn some trust at least.
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Aug 1, 2020 01:05
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Subjunctive posted:I've heard that first avail will be about 10 days later, but that is likely to be "lucky bot operators and scalpers" available, and not "leisurely stroll through amazon and one gets shipped that evening" available.
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Aug 8, 2020 23:19
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albany academy posted:i want massive amounts of storage in a windows desktop. some of the seagate stuff caught my eye on pcpartpicker https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ccCD4D/seagate-ironwolf-12tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st12000vn0007 I have IronWolf Pro drives in my desktop, the only downside is the motors are a bit noisy. (Reason for going with the Pros was the longer warranty.) End of the day, its a SATA hard drive that is good for big dumb sequential files.
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Sep 6, 2020 18:39
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