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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

I’m planning on doing some upgrading. This build is about three years old (I think? I’m dumb).

Current build is as such

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.00)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $31.45)
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $7.90)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $134.30)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $135.00)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $199.00)
Storage: Toshiba X300 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Toshiba N300 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($248.99 @ Staples)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Strix Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $79.99)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $54.90)
Monitor: Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor ($380.65 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G903 HERO Wireless Optical Mouse ($99.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1821.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-30 17:40 EDT-0400


I use the thing for daily gaming and as a household Plex server (remote and local, a lot of use but just 3 people). I have a few specific objectives for this upgrade.

1.) RTX 30XX card, probably the 3080? I dunno but that’s what’s pushing this whole upgrade. It’s rare I can get any game to push to 144, even on low settings.

2.) PSU I’ll undoubtably need for the aforementioned GPU upgrade.

3.) additional cooling if needed. I only have the two base case fans in there. Temps are fine for now, but I imagine with a monster GPU temps will get higher.

4.) I’m considering a case change. The case lives in my living room in a pretty small space so I don’t want to go much bigger, however I really need additional space for 3.5 drives. My 12TB is full, and I’ve got tons of 1-4TB drives laying around I’d love to use instead of shelling out for additional large capacity drives for now.

Here’s what I’m looking for advice on. Trying to be somewhat cost conscious on everything because the GPU appears like it’s going to hurt.

What would be a good PSU with enough headroom to run the GPU/additions 3.5s without breaking my wallet? I prefer modular if possible but can sacrifice on that.

Is additional cooling worth it here? And what should I get? Looking for air cooling only.

What’s a good case these days? What I would really love would be a M-ATX that has a bunch of 3.5 bay space and can hold a 3 slot GPU, but I’d settle for a smaller ATX that achieves the same goals. I really like the Define 7, but A it’s kinda huge and B it seems enormous.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

sean10mm posted:

If you like Fractal and want better cooling the obvious suggestion is the Meshify line. A little case with shitloads of 3.5 drive bays and room for the (rumored to be) huge rear end 3080 is generally an oxymoron though.

Shitloads of 3.5 is probably an exaggeration, but I’d like more that two. I’d probably be happy with 4.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

sean10mm posted:

I'm having trouble picturing what you did, but the GPU is literally the hottest object in the case so sucking air off that probably isn't great. Especially since there's barely any space between like a D15 and the video card so the airflow is gonna be really bad. And those temps seem really high if you're using a Noctua tower cooler. Not OH poo poo GONNA DIE high, but really defeating the point of using a big tower cooler.

Put another way, I'd expect the stock cooler to peak at like 85.

"Too much paste" basically never matters unless you went *comically* overboard, excess pasted is just pushed out the sides and that only matters if you're using electrically conductive paste (which most paste isn't for exactly that reason.) GamersNexus tested it and barely anything happened between ideal vs. overkill paste application, so that's probably the least of your worries.

It should look like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/NjJbt6

I think your link is wrong?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

sean10mm posted:

It should just link to a random pc part picker build where the guy put the D15 in correctly?

On my end it's just a build list with one external case pic and talking about upgrading.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Butterfly Valley posted:

And that case picture shows the correct orientation of an installed D15.

Oh I'm just an idiot. I thought he was trying to show correct amount of paste.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Does my build need a new PSU for a 3080? I’ve got a 550w seasonic and a 7700k.

Might go FE, might wait for a EVGA.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/kinglyuser/saved/#view=pW3RvK

Edit: I’ll probably also add a few more case fans

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Klyith posted:

For a 3080 you'd be pushing it, it would probably handle it if your system is minimal on other stuff like HDDs. You'd be asking for like 500/550W though and the PSU would probably be spinning the fan hard.

It's a $700 video card, don't be tight.

Fair. I can probably sell off my other parts and make it back.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Should I just get this?

https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-850f14hg-850w/p/1HU-024C-00005

The price seems better than most PSU prices right now, and I’m not exactly looking to get hosed buying one for the 3080 I’m gonna get.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Klyith posted:

You could but you don't need an 850w PSU for a 300w GPU + sub-200W CPU.


Superflower is an OEM that makes PSUs for other companies. They're fine.

Don't look at store reviews, look at real reviews. It's a decent PSU.

It's not what I'd do -- it's more watts than needed and given a few weeks before getting a 3080 I'd imagine I could find a platinum 650 for that price -- but it's fine.

Even if I stuff like 5 3.5” hdds and a shitload of fans 850w wouldn’t be worth it?

I’d be worried about 650 not cutting it, and I can’t find at 750w that are even the same price, let alone cheaper.

Supposedly this is the defacto PSU quality list, which puts this particular unit at a good buy

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Klyith posted:

If you've got 5 HDDs that deff rules out a premium 550W, that's all. If you're worried you can look at reviews that measure total system power draw: a 2080 ti with a -X 140W cpu barely goes over 450W. The 3080 is adding like 40W over the 2080ti. A good 650W will easily cover it.


I think that tier list is dumb for a number of reasons, but I'll say that the superflower is a good buy for 850w. The objection was only that 850w is overkill and that you can get 10 year units (of less wattage) for the same price.

In stock is a different question OTOH, and if you want to buy now that may the thing that's available. It looks like there's been another run on PSUs, probably nvidia announcing it make everyone buy all the 6 & 750s. But I'm seeing the corsair RMX 750 at corsair (same price, 10 year), the corsair 750 TXM at amazon (cheaper, 7 year), and an evga G5 650 (same price, 10 year) at newegg.

Too big a PSU doesn't do any harm. You super don't need to get twice the watts that your system uses, that advice was last current like 15 years ago. But there's nothing bad about it other than money.

Not trying to split hairs here, because I do really appreciate the advice. But the superflower is a 10 year. Is the RMX line better build then the superflower? Because if they’re both 10 year gold and basically the same thing I don’t see why I’d go 100w lower for the same price.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Thirst Mutilator posted:

Is there any literature confirming this? I bought a this motherboard earlier this year and was considering dropping in a 3070 or 3080 once the non FE cards started hitting the market, and if it's true I'd be pretty bummed.

After that post I did some googling on it. It seems like there’s no evidence that 2080Ti maxed out PCI-E 3.0 16x, so the consensus seems to be it’s unlikely a 4.0 slot will give huge gains over a 3.0 slot.

I saw some other people in the GPU thread talking about how if it made much of a difference nVidia woulda harped on it more during the reveal.

Edit: post above basically disproves this so never mind.

Klyith posted:

Oh, looks like they upped it. Review I looked at said 7 years. Never mind then, that covers my main objection.

RMX is a very high quality, but I don't think the differences are big enough to make much difference. What you'd notice from the outside is that the RMX has an automatic semi-passive mode, and sourcing additional modular cables from corsair is vastly easier. Most people don't need extra cables, and that superflower seems like it comes with plenty.

Thanks. There’s actually a 10% off coupon from the Corsair website when you sign up for their email bullshit so it’s 10$ cheaper.

Gonna sit on it overnight for now. I’ve still gotta figure out more cooling and a new small form factor case that has a shitton of 3.5 space, can accommodate a 3080, and it’s ugly as sin or huge.

Right now I’m considering the Fractal Node 804.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Rexxed posted:

The best value for money is buying an 8TB or larger external WD drive and shucking it from its case. They're on sale frequently. The current deal isn't the best (they get as low as $120 for the easystore version) but it's still decent:
Additional savings w/ promo code EMCDRDG39, limited offer (brings it to $130):
https://www.newegg.com/black-wd-elements-8tb/p/N82E16822234349?Item=N82E16822234349

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CwtxMV2YB0

If you don't feel like shucking the 6tb CMR disks are $150-200:
https://smile.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/
https://smile.amazon.com/Seagate-IronWolf-Internal-Hard-Drive/dp/B085Z4P89R/
https://smile.amazon.com/Toshiba-3-5-Inch-Internal-Drive-HDWN160XZSTA/dp/B06Y2KCXCM/

I own two of the Toshiba 6TB and they've been good for me but they do have mixed reviews in the comments.

I have one of the toshiba 8Tb 7200. They’re loud as gently caress but perform well.

If you have a local micro center the best HDD deals I’ve gotten are just checking week by week at their sales till I saw a decent price/GB.


Also, I ended up with the 850w superflower. Higher watt PSUs are going OOS everywhere now.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

seiferguy posted:

I can't find any rubbing alcohol around me. Is there an option for cleaning off thermal grease from a CPU that doesn't involve rubbing alcohol?

ISO if you can find it.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

BrainDance posted:

This is actually, seriously fine? There's no iso around here, the cleaning alcohol is just normal drinking alcohol. I'm not doing anything that needs it now but I always worried about it leaving some kind of residue.

I mean technically you can wash a board with distilled water as long as it’s discharged and fully dry after.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Rollie Fingers posted:

In the GPU thread there’s a screencap from an Nvidia video showing the 3080 using almost 500 watts at load.

I was so glad I went with an 850w after I saw that.

I assume that’s under some insane overclocking (the clock was up to almost 2k in that screenshot) but still.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

My current plan for my upgrade is to transfer my build over to a Fractal Define 7, stock it with a gently caress off amount of 3.5” drives, and throw a 3080 FE in there.

Is this a bad idea? Am I gonna melt my poo poo? Do I need to buy a fuckload of fans?

I like the unobtrusive look of the case, and the dimensions aren’t terrible for what I want. I’d love smaller but I don’t think that’s happening with the level of drive bays I want and and a 3080.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.00)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $31.45)
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $7.90)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $134.30)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $135.00)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $199.00)
Storage: Toshiba X300 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Toshiba N300 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($248.99 @ Staples)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $79.99)
Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor ($364.63 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G903 HERO Wireless Optical Mouse ($122.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1773.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-04 23:16 EDT-0400

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

TheDemon posted:

Question, I am likely to have 6 SATA drives by the end of the year and I rarely see boards with that many connections recommended. I'm looking at something like the MSI B550M Mortar, but it seems expensive since all I want is 6x 6gb/s SATA (or more I guess) and Wifi on a reliable AM4 board. Feels weird but I'd also be willing to look at lower end X570s if they can be reasonably recommended. Also I guess this requirement is also relevant to power supply having enough SATA sources.

Country: Canada
Purpose: Video Editing
Budget: $220 cad or ideally much cheaper for the mobo, total system budget is $1500 cad
Software: Davinci Resolve


Given that in mind I've picked out these parts (plus Windows and my existing HDD farm). Anything seem dumb or can be optimized?:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: MSI MAG B550M MORTAR WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply

prices deleted because PCPartsPicker knows very little about deal-hunting for parts in Canada

Why not get a PCI sata card?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Klyith posted:

The Define 7 when you add a ton of HDDs does not have great airflow. The front fans then have the solid panel in front and HD cages behind them.

You can add some top exhaust fans to help, but mostly I think you will just have to resign yourself to it being a somewhat loud system while gaming. Clean the dust filters regularly. It's not going to hurt anything though.

Loud while gaming is totally fine. I play only with headphones anyway so that’s not a huge issue.

I actually really like that the door easy opens and closes. I have no problems keeping it open while gaming, but I really like that I can keep it closed during the day for a subtler look.

Also didn’t know if I should exhaust or intake on the top so that helps.

With the case picked out I think that solidified my upgrade, assuming I can actually snag a 3080.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Pazzeh posted:

sean10mm
With that budget I'd do it slightly differently.


Butterfly Valley
If I were you I'd be smart and spend a little less on the components and use the savings to get a new 144hz monitor, because that would feel like a big upgrade from what you're currently using.

Thank you, I can definitely see what you're saying and I can adjust accordingly to save some cash for a monitor and other stuff. You've definitely taken the stress out of my decision making.

144hz monitor is almost always worth it. The difference is huge and immediately noticeable



I’m considering more memory for my build. Is there anything wrong with mismatching ram as long as dual channel is matched?

Looking at getting this

https://www.microcenter.com/product/481738/gskill-ripjaws-v-16gb-(2-x-8gb)-ddr4-3200-pc4-25600-cl16-dual-channel-desktop-memory-kit-f4-3200c16d-16gvkb---black

Have this I think? If it’s not this it’s a super close trident z.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/L2VBD3/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gtz

Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 5, 2020

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Mr Interweb posted:

UGH

so good news and bad news, folks. good news is my RAM for my laptop FINALLY got in. bad news is that i see absolutely no speed improvements. in fact, i legit think it's even SLOWER, which sounds crazy, but i think there may be something to it because when i checked the RAM speed in the task bar, it went from 800 mhz to 667 mhz. What the heck is up with that? D:

Did you maybe buy something sketchy? Like maybe it’s labeled 800 but they’re actually 667?

Is it 2 of the exact same ram sticks?

It could also be a compatibility issue. Or a setting in the bios (if your laptop even offers ram speed/timing changes).

It could even be that it’s not seated well.

It’d be helpful if you posted the ram you bought and the exact laptop you have.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

albany academy posted:

i want massive amounts of storage in a windows desktop. some of the seagate stuff caught my eye on pcpartpicker https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ccCD4D/seagate-ironwolf-12tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st12000vn0007
but idk anything about using NAS drives in a desktop. Would it just be simpler to buy this https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JWm323/western-digital-black-6tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-wd6003fzbx?

I have a 7200 toshiba NAS drive (8TB) and while it is loud as gently caress when writing or reading, it works wonderfully.

As far as if you should get one, it probably depends on your use case. Even though I use mine as Plex server space, I only picked the NAS drive cause it was the best 7200rpm drive at $/GB at the time. For most cases (including my own) 7200 probably isn’t even needed.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Xachariah posted:

Blah blah blah, GTX 3070/3080 and Cyberpunk, you know the drill. My current build is 5 years old and the upcoming GTX 3070/3080's gave me an boner so here I am.

PC Building Megathread - GTX 3080’s gave me an boner

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Freakazoid_ posted:

I'm soliciting opinions on micro axt mini towers. My current Rosewill Line-M is pretty much perfect as far as size goes, but my search for something in that size while also being modern (good air flow, side window, argb, ect.) has been difficult.

I love my fractal define mini c enough that I’m upgrading to basically the same case in a larger form factor in the define 7.

Fractal has a ton of stuff in small sizes (including fantastic cube cases) that look really sleek and offer really nice side panels.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

Well, what do?

Get a different motherboard? CPU? Ram? Everything?

It’s probably a bad motherboard or a bad CPU. Could be ram but with a CPU initialization error I’d doubt it. If the fan sent it over the edge when it was working fine it could even be the PSU (but again I doubt it).

The problem is this is very difficult to narrow down. If it were me I’d probably RMA both the cpu and the board if possible so you can rule out both.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

I already swapped the motherboard. It seems a bit more stable in some way and less stable in another.

I did some googling and it seems like gigabyte has this specific problem with the X399 and it requires flashing the BIOS with a specific naming scheme.

https://forum.gigabyte.us/thread/3113/cpu-led-indicator-on-post?page=1

Do some googling around your exact model and see if there’s any similar relevant advice. The error sounds incredibly similar to what you’re experiencing. It even talks about the issue being related to XMP.

CPU utilization errors are generally because the CPU isn’t getting enough power. It’d triple check everything is connected in the proper places when it comes to your PSU connections.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

I was able to FS for hours yesterday with XMP enabled, so it really seems like the 1st motherboard was at fault.

The 2nd motherboard hasn't been without issues either - not being able to boot at all for a while - but it's a lot better. I'm kinda afraid to touch it now, but I still want to replace a case fan with a Noctua so I'll have to fiddle with it then. When that happens I'll triple check all connections too. Annoying because the PSU is rather hard to access but ok.

I understand why you don’t want to gently caress with it, it’s been a nightmare.

If you’re still in the return window for most of your stuff I’d gently caress with it and figure it out now. It’s infinitely easier to deal with retail returns than RMAs.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Xachariah posted:

So before I pull the trigger I was just looking into AM4 motherboards and despite a lot of research I still have no concrete idea of what I'm looking for. I just see ELITE BOMB MPG PRIME STRIX CAPSLOCK
PRO PLUS. It just makes me go what the gently caress... Am I buying a PC motherboard or an pre-workout energy drink for frat boys?

I gather I want at least a B550 or an X570 ATX. Apart from that, how the gently caress do you choose between them?

First you need to decide what features are must have and which are nice to have. WiFi? Says ports, usb header options, etc.

PcPartPicker can narrow down options you care about pretty easy, then they’ll spit you a list. It’s a good place to start.

I’ll also second that I like Asus boards a lot, despite being frat boy name approved.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

sean10mm posted:

1) What's your budget?
2) What size does it have to be? ATX, mATX, mITX, etc.
3) Do you need a certain number/type of ports or expansion slots? Common example: more cases have USB-C ports now, but not every mobo has a header to connect them to.
4) Are you going to seriously try to overclock this thing?
5) Do you need built in wifi or bluetooth?
6) Are you plugging a shitload of things into it at once, or is it just going to be 1 video card + 1 SSD?
7) Is there random poo poo you want like BIOS flashback, 2.5g LAN, dual LAN, newer/fancier onboard audio, RGB bling, etc.?

That helps narrow it down a lot.

I will say, bios flashback and having error code printing on a board are something I don’t think I could ever go without again.

That poo poo is just so helpful. Even if you only use it once, you’ll regret it if you don’t have it the one time.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Looking for some quick recs and have some questions while I solidify the last bits I need here.

Anyone have a good tool kit recommendation? Something with magnetic drivers preferably. I usually use what I have just laying around and I'd like a nice set of tools for tinkering.

I have a Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE . According to the manual

quote:

M.2 Support
This motherboard features an M.2 slot, which supports both PCIE and SATA modes. The PCIE mode operates at full PCI Gen. 3.0 x4 speeds. The SATA mode shares bandwidth with SATA ports 1 and 2 and will automatically disable those ports when an M.2 card is inserted.

I have a 960 Evo that's PCIe. Am I correct in assuming this means it does not eat the two SATA ports in this case?


Here is the build as it stands now. I'll probably go 3080 FE if I can get one.

Kingnothing posted:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.00)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $31.45)
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $7.90)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $134.30)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $135.00)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $199.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.45 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Seagate SV35.5 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Toshiba X300 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($117.99 @ Dell)
Storage: Toshiba X300 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Toshiba N300 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($207.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define 7 ATX Mid Tower Case ($152.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor ($364.64 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($262.50 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G903 HERO Wireless Optical Mouse ($122.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2058.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-10 00:39 EDT-0400


I'm looking for some additional cooling, because I assume with all the drives (and more will be added eventually) and the 3080 this thing will get hot.

I'm thinking 1x more 140 front, 3x 140s on top, and maybe another 1x-2x 140 in the base under the PSU shroud. Looks don't matter at all. Should I be using the stock case fans and adding on or replacing all together? And what should I be looking for in the extra fans? The case has a three PWM fans and six 3-pin fans fan controller built in.

Lastly I'm looking for a PCI sata card that won't kill me in cost.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Some Goon posted:

About the only part of a computer that needs a tool anymore is the M.2 drive and maybe a hsf if it doesn't come with one, but the iFixit screwdriver set is as nice as everyone says it is, provided you ever have a use for the various bits it comes with, it's very much an electronics repair kit and not a general tool.

Yeah electronics repair kit is definitely what I'm looking for.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Samadhi posted:

I guess it's good that I'm a paypig and getting the MSI Unify that has the BIOS Flash. I wonder when the new Ryzen chips will actually be available, as since I am waiting on getting my hands on a 3080 anyway, that may push everything back far enough to wait for the new CPUs

BIOS Flash is 100% worth it and I don’t think I’d buy a board without it again

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

literally this big posted:

Gaming (all genres), streaming, video editing, browsing, general goony "Power User" stuff.


Is the point of waiting so that all the current-gen stuff goes on sale?

I currently have a 256GB SSD and a 1TB HDD. I like it. I like being able to choose between having important programs on the SSD, and lower priority stuff on the HDD.

Oh a 256gb SSD? You can fit call if duty and uh..... Windows I guess?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

Since I'm busy returning poo poo, I'm thinking of returning the H500M I got, mostly because the PSU is so awkward to access and I'd like a bit more room to gently caress around with cable management anyway.

Any recommendations for a better case? Good airflow, good cable management, good access to everything including the PSU cables. And I have 3 SSDs now plus an HDD so there has to be room for those + extra. And some USB ports on the front. At least 4 (plus 1 USB-C), or more.

Also room for a 3080 when they come out.

Did you ever look into the gigabyte issue with the bios renaming that I mentioned earlier? That issue was super similar to yours.


I agree with returning everything you can still that’s giving you issues. Just start as fresh as you can at this point, it’ll make life easier than narrowing down if you can wait for the exchange parts, or give you options you wish you had.


For a case, I think you need to consider more specifics.

Do you was a mid tower, full, or something weird? With those drives I assume not matx but there are a few that can fit that.

Do you care at all about noise or do you just want pure airflow? If you want any noise elimination at all you’re gonna compromise at least a little on airflow.

I’m a huge fan of fractals stuff, for all the reasons you listed. Specifically their meshify line has great airflow.

If airflow is your only concern, I’d start here

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3604-best-gaming-pc-cases-for-airflow-in-2020-right-now

These guys do a genuinely insane level of temp and airflow testing, and that link has not just cases for all budget types, but choices within those budget lines.

That being said. The define 7 from fractal is neat in that you can open the front panel and remote the front filter to basically make it an airflow case, then swing the door closed when you don’t need airflow. It’s part of the reason I ended up picking it.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

the_enduser posted:

I am the orange SATA port.

Nothing a little black nail polish won’t fix

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

Not really? I flashed the bios this morning (with version 22, I assume the 30a was a beta version so I'm avoiding that now), been working fine the entire day now. I'll do a memtest with the memory at XMP speeds tonight. I'll check your previous post after I make this one.

edit: checked it, doesn't seem relevant. I haven't really had issues flashing the bios or making the bios version stick. I could still be wrong obviously but my instinct screams at me that this is not it.

As for returning, yeah. I think I can still return the case today, that's why I'm asking for options now.

For the other stuff, I still have some time. PSU, CPU, and RAM I have until the 27th, the 1st motherboard has been returned and accepted today, and for the 2nd motherboard I now have until the 22nd.

Problem is, what is it that is giving me issues? Should I just return everything? Just some things? And get what instead?


I think a mid tower is enough. H500M is mid, right? I like the size, sure.

I want enough airflow that the fans don't have to go crazy. Closing it during normal operation and opening it for games sounds reasonable. Not sure if I agree with removing the air filter but I presume that's optional?

Yeah removing the filter is optional and will give a bunch of extra airflow if you feel like you need it.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3558-fractal-define-7-case-review

They’re also on sale at Newegg right now (windowless) @$139.99 + 12.99 shipping.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

uXs posted:

Can't buy on Newegg, they seem to only ship to Turkey and the UK in Europe.

I've had another recommendation for a define, but the R6. Any reason you recommend the 7?

The 7 is the new version of the R6. It has a lot of the same features and is kinda similar (and pretty nice) but the 7 beats it in almost every place.

If you’re considering the 7, I’d use this site to find a retailer in your country that may have it.

https://www.fractal-design.com/where-to-buy/?fwp_continent=europe

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

gohuskies posted:

I may have bought two parts that don't go together but I want to doublecheck to make sure I'm not missing anything. I have an MSI B365M Pro VDH motherboard and this MS30 SSD. The SSD uses the SATA type of M.2 port and it sure looks to me like the motherboard only has the PCIe type of M.2. But on the motherboard's website under "detail", it says that the motherboard supports SATA in the M.2 port with the caveat that the SATA 1 connector won't be available with a SATA SSD in the M.2. I don't understand and I want to ask somebody for advice before I try jamming things into things or returning stuff and buying replacements. Is anyone familiar with this kind of situation?

Edit: Never mind, it works. Just had to try it and it's fine.

I know you have the answer, but they share the same slot so it doesn’t matter.

I asked this question earlier, and it seems the answer is if you use a SATA M.2, it eats one of your sata lanes and SATA_1 for non- M2 shuts off. If you use PCI M2, it has its own lane.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

totalnewbie posted:

jfc I love microcenter.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800XT 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor ($386.99 @ Newegg) $500 @ Microcenter w/ motherboard
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg) out of stock @ Microcenter
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($187.99 @ Amazon) saves 75 bucks bundled with the CPU :O
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($149.99 @ B&H) out of stock online, 160 @ Microcenter
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Newegg)[/s] 180@ Microcenter (maybe $5 discount!)
Case: Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case $90 @ Microcenter
Power Supply: Corsair 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($239.99 @ Corsair)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.88 @ Other World Computing) 150 @ M$. gently caress it, I'm not trusting online resellers. someone selling a key for :20bux: lol
Total: $1429.94 $1355

Can I just also say how much I love Lian Li products? They've got some turds but when they make a gem, it is a GEM. I can't wait to buy it and check it out.

Note the lack of GPU - will see if I can get my hands on an 3080. If not, I'll throw in my current 1070 and let it ride until I can grab a 3080. So that'll put it right at 2k.
Bringing over from current computer: 1 TB 970 EVO (...for CoD :v: ), spinning HDD, monitor, mouse, keyboard, monitor, blah blah blah.

Possible savings:
-130 from 3800XT -> 3600
-35 use stock cooler
-50 cheaper motherboard, just ballpark-ing
-50 cheaper ram, just ballpark-ing
-30 cheaper case, not going to get much cheaper than that.
-100 cheaper PSU, ballpark-ing but don't gently caress around with PSUs. Also, this seems to be the most difficult component to source at the moment. Out of stock almost everywhere!
-90 smaller SSD but honestly, some games are getting huge these days so 1 TB almost seems mandatory.
(-150 Linux :v:)

So budget/non-COVID price: 870 + 700 which I just looked at for shits and giggles to see how much money I'm wasting. Turns out it's almost enough for a 3070!

Any comments from anyone?

That PSU seems huge for what you have. You could probably shave $100+ just on that

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

totalnewbie posted:

:words:
I mean, look at these nerds: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eL0893Ramlwk6E3s3uSvH1_juom7SMG5SCNzP2Uov8w/edit#gid=1529225916
(That is definitely my poo poo.)

Looking at the reviews, I think I've got these realistic choices:

(I threw out RM line because I am still salty about Taiwanese capacitors)
RMx 850W. Pro: 145, Con: not FDB fan, Gold rating, slightly worse performance (alt: 750W 135, 1000W 205)
HX 1000W. Pro: FDB fan, plat rating, slightly better performance. Con: 205 bucks (alt: 750W 155, 850W 185)

Note that the HX is already 40 bucks cheaper than what I linked because I didn't realize the HXi has some extra bits for monitoring and tbh I do not need to monitor my PSU performance.

Prices are jacked right now, though, and it's hard to find because a lot of places are out of stock. So I might have to just have to go with what I can find that's at a reasonable price. But thanks for the reality check.

This was 4 days ago


https://reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/iom6bu/restock_seasonic_px850_platinum_psu_amazon_15540/

Follow r/buildapcsales and set an IFTTT alert or something for PSU. Something reasonably priced from a decent company will pop up in the next few days and you’ll be able to grab it if you act quick enough. Unless you’re dead set on Corsair.

https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-750f14hg-750w/p/1HU-024C-00006

This is in stock now. Not platinum but Superflower is an OEM that’s highly rated, this has a great price, and the LTT nerds like this PSU. With your build I don’t necessarily see why you’d need to go absolutely crazy with the PSU.

Edit: 850w is $10 more

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

totalnewbie posted:

I closed my eyes and bought it.

Because at the end of the day, gently caress it, it'll be fine. Thanks very much!

It’s also the one I bought so at least you know if it sucks I’m in the same lovely boat :confuoot:

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