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Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

What do you all think of this "modest gaming build" featured on PC Part Picker?

https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/rjD48d/modest-intel-gaming-build

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Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

So lately my PC has really not been working. The best way I can describe it is, is that the PC never "fully" turns on. Like, the lights inside the case will glow and a couple of the fans will turn on, but nothing else happens. My monitors, things plugged into USB like my keyboard, nothing else turns on. If I play around with the PC and turn it on and off enough times, eventually I can get it to turn "all the way" on. But even then, if I put it to sleep and try to start it up it will often crash necessitating a restart and we're back to where we were.

At this point I think the problem is the Power Supply. Now most of the parts in my PC are like, nearly 10 years old now besides the GPU and SSD. So I'm not really SURPRISED, and I have wanted to build a new PC and this is a great excuse. But I'm not sure if I'm ready to spend all the money needed right now on a new PC (I'd LIKE to build a new PC under a grand that could play Cyberpunk "well" (meaning something like, 1080p60 on High settings) as a general benchmark, but I don't know if that's feasible). So my options, I think, are:

-Wait until I buy all the parts for this new PC and build a new one
-Just buy the new PSU NOW, replace my old one in my current PC. Then when the time comes to buy parts for my new PC, I already have the Power Supply.


Now I feel like replacing the Power Supply is never recommended. I don't see a lot of people talk about it. So... I guess my question is, IS it feasible to replace a PSU? And should I even bother, and is it even worth the effort over waiting and just building a new PC?


Here are the specs of my current PC:

Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Motherboard: MSI P67A-G45 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge Quad-Core 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W
BX80623I52500K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 WINDFORCE OC 6G (GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD)

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL

Hard Drive: Samsung 1TB SSD (Can't get exact model number right now)

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

That's good to know, thanks! Sound like a 650 watt PSU is the way to go. Are there any PSU brands I should specifically look for/avoid?

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

spunkshui posted:

Next time it acts like this try the following: Unplug the computer and turn it on. You will see fans turn a little and then stop obviously. This drains out all capacitors. Then plug it back in and fire it up.

Could be mobo, could be PSU. You could go for a new modular PSU as a nice quality of life upgrade and see if that fixes it.10 year old PSUs die pretty soon so dumping it makes sense now anyway.

650 watt would cover anything other then overclocking with a new 3080 and should have plugs for everything you use now and then some.

So to build off this (and I'm sorry I know this isn't the tech support thread, I promise after this I'll keep my questions around building), I went ahead and got a new PSU. This one to be exact:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...p?skuId=5845214

I pulled out the old PSU, wires and all, and replaced it with the new one. Everything plugged in, I tried it out and.... still the same. Well, it's a tiny bit different, now when I turn it on, the fans and lights run for a few seconds, then it turns off and then after a few seconds it tries to turn on again. This isn't NEW, but it is happening more consistently now.

Sooo what does this mean? Is this a CPU / Motherboard issue or something? Does this mean I should look into building a new PC?

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

OK, a while ago I posted about PC troubles. Basically it couldn't start, and upgrading the PSU didn't help... after experimenting a bunch with reseating the RAM, I've found I am able to consistently get the PC to turn on if I take out one of the RAM sticks. If I put that stick back in, the PC consistently fails to start. Sooo I think this might just be a RAM problem. So here's my current PC:


Power Supply: Corsair CXM Series CXM 650M 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Modular ATX Power Supply

Motherboard: MSI P67A-G45 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge Quad-Core 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W
BX80623I52500K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 WINDFORCE OC 6G (GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD)

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL

Hard Drive: Samsung 1TB SSD (Can't get exact model number right now)

If I'm going to get some new RAM sticks I'd like to get some good ones that I could transplant into brand new PC whenever I get it. Considering how old my CPU and motherboard are, should I be concerned at all with getting newer RAM? Like they won't fit, or they'll be too "strong" or something? Am I hamstringing myself in trying to get DDR3 RAM sticks that work on this older PC, and that will make things complicated if I want to move them to a theoretical new PC in the future?

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Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

OK, that's super good to know!

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