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I am planning to build an unreasonably powerful computer when the 30 series cards drop from nvidia. I have ordered a DAN Cases A4-SFXv4.1 which should arrive some time before the heat death of the universe. I am hoping for this to be my main computer for the next 4-6 years. 1) I wanted to know if there are any SFX power supplies I should watch out for, or if I should just got for the best I can find in terms of certification and wattage. 2) Additionally, I was kind of planning out a build using a Ryzen 3950X, but I see everyone here arguing everyone down to a 3600. I'm not really strapped for cash on this build, so what's the best processor before I stop seeing any benefit at all? I tend to have a lot of programs open at once even while running a game. I'll be doing my gaming at 2k 144hz and hoping that the 30 series supports DP2.0, in which case once monitors that support DP2.0 come out I'll be gaming at 4k at whatever refresh rate the card will support. Despite this not being in any way an economy build, I wasn't looking to go more expensive than the 3950X. 3) Should I stop at 32 gigs of RAM, or would I reasonably see some benefit from 64? 4) Is the Sabrent Rocket 4.0 still the top dog in terms of M.2 SDD's? 5) I was also planning on going with a motherboard using the X570 chipset, but much like the 3600 recommendations, everyone here seems to be recommending the B450. Is there no performance/feature difference at all between these? Mistikman fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 00:00
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PageMaster posted:It's been almost 13 years since my last build, and at that time Newegg was the (maybe only) place do go and I pretty much ordered everything off of there. I've had some issues with stuff getting shipped incorrectly lately and have seen a lot of complaints recently about them having gone downhill the past few years; is Newegg still pretty reliable and trustworthy, or are there other similar sites that have come into existence worth using? Before you commit to any purchase from Newegg, look up to see who you are actually buying it from. If it says you are buying it from Newegg you are fine. If you see another company name, I wouldn't risk it. Newegg has no quality control for their marketplace vendors, and some are absolutely terrible and hardly more than scams.
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May 3, 2020 05:03
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Cognac McCarthy posted:B&H has horrible labor practices so if you can avoid them, it's worth considering B&H also has a habit of listing everything for sale as in stock, then when you order it they bother to get it from their suppliers. I had this happen to me a few years ago when I tried to order from them. If you are ordering something that is sold out everywhere, beware buying from them because then you still wont get it for awhile, but they will have your money right away.
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May 3, 2020 05:34
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Verviticus posted:im starting to notice in a number of games that my current system is just barely passable, but still struggling with some newer games. if i wanted to upgrade a 6600k to a ryzen 3600, but retain my gtx 970 for 6 months or so for the next GPU wave to come out, am i going to notice an appreciable difference for that 6 months or should i just suffer and wait for both a new gpu and zen3 stuff. i'm still working with a 1080/60 monitor and would probably look to get a new monitor at the same time i upgrade the GPU Everything we know about the next generation of Nvidia GPUs is very much rumor at this point. Nvidia has a big announcement on May 15th that will likely give us some concrete information. That said, the rumors are encouraging, and there is a good possibility there will be a good performance jump between the 20 series and the 30 series. Given you are coming from a 970 though, there was a huge performance gap between the 9 and 10 series, so even if there wasn't a massive gap between the 10 and 20 series, getting a 2070 (starts around $400) to be comparable card to your 970 is going to literally double your performance, plus give you access to RTX and DLSS 2.0. If you can wait, you can probably get an even bigger bump in 6+ months, but you can get a huge boost right now.
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May 10, 2020 22:37
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DeceasedHorse posted:Thanks, got that GPU upgrade itch, but there is really no reason right now... Given we will probably be seeing an announcement for the 30 series in 3 days, I would say buying a new video card right now is pretty dumb. Once the 30 series cards drop, you should be able to get a 20 series for cheaper, or hopefully a 30 series at the 20 series current prices. Either way, if you can wait a few months, you can get a way better deal than today.
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May 12, 2020 13:23
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Welp, a bit of my personal nightmare happened: my primary entertainment PC died during this pandemic A positive here is that you might be lucky and it's just bad RAM. It might even be just a single stick of bad RAM. Assuming you have more than 1 stick, pull out all but one, and run memtest again. Repeat this with all the sticks you have. Any that come back with an error, you can replace. Hell, you may not actually need 32 gigs of RAM and can just roll with 16 going forwards without noticing much difference.
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May 16, 2020 04:13
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First, Firefox would keep crashing, and now Windows freezes and force reboots, repeating the forced-reboot after less than a minute after booting into the OS.
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i must compose posted:Hey it worked! And now it says my CPU is doing better as well! Is that because of speedier RAM? Nice, you got lucky. Instability issues with XMP are really common if your RAM just isn't up to the task.
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May 16, 2020 06:30
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I'm slowly grabbing pieces for a new PC build, and I am curious if there is any significant problem with plugging the CPU cooler into the case fan plug, and the case fan into the CPU cooler plug? The physical layout of the case+mobo and where the case fan will be makes cable management simpler if the headers used on the mobo are swapped.
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May 19, 2020 14:58
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I looked a bit at what I'll have available in the BIOS, and it looks like I'll be able to swap it there. Essentially, the fan is being installed at the bottom of the case, and will be like an inch away from the CPU fan header. The case fan header it literally on the farthest corner of the motherboard from the fan, and I don't really want to run the power cord from the fan all the way across the entire motherboard unless I have to. I really want this build to be really clean for once, most of my prior builds have been messy as hell wrt cable management.
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May 19, 2020 15:26
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I ordered a power supply directly from Corsair. I got it at normal price, and they shipped it within 2 weeks. It sucks if you need one immediately, but it sure was worlds better than paying 3-4 times normal price.
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May 22, 2020 00:34
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That's pretty much the recommended across the board. If you wanted a little more for gaming you could go to a 2070 super, but otherwise it seems pretty solid across the board before you start hitting major diminishing returns. I don't know anything about that RAM, but it's got all the RGB bullshit if you are into that. There isn't much of a price difference between DDR4-2400 and DDR4-3200, so if it's the same where you are at you might want to go up to 3200. Those are the only possible changes I would make, you pretty much went with consensus picks, and they are consensus for a reason.
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May 22, 2020 06:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thanks, that's great to hear. I do not care for RGB bullshit, so I'll be looking for some different ram. I've always had ATi/Amd graphics cards and would like to go nVidia to try, but then I see something like the 5700XT that beats the 2060 super at most games while being at about the same price point. I hear complaints about the lack of good driver (same stuff as 10 years ago in other words). Is AMD graphics card still a bit of gamble, or is the fear overblown? Something like the Powercolor Red Devil looks good. I currently have an AMD 5700 (a step down from the 5700XT) and the experience with their drivers for the last 10 months has been so miserable I can't wait to get back to nvidia. Every single driver version I have tried has either weird unexplained stability issues or strange behavior in whatever game I was playing at the time. For most games, when it's not crashing occasionally or having some completely bizarre problem, the performance is on par (or slightly higher) than with the nvidia card I had before (which sadly died) but for a few games and programs, the performance of the 5700 is about half that of my old card. My last nvidia card just worked. It didn't matter what driver I used, things just functioned and I virtually never ran into strange issues and it went strong for 3 years without a hitch.
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May 22, 2020 13:26
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Klyith posted:It's a thing, but that's not your problem. This has me a bit worried. The QVL for my motherboard+processor: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi_matisse_191231.pdf The RAM I have, which is sold as Ryzen compatible from Corsair: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M2Z3600C18 I am really hoping once I get to put everything together I can avoid the pain of manually setting my RAM timings. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 02:42 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 02:39
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That's good to hear, I have the parts sitting here, but I won't be piecing the whole thing together for another month or two when I can get the case I want, so I am particularly worried that I might have 3 month old parts that I am trying to power up for the first time. I got really impatient and ordered everything as soon as I saw it available at the right price, but the case I want is backordered like crazy.
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May 23, 2020 03:58
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Same here, it's been a decade or so since I have had a legitimately bad component, and I have probably built 8-10 full computers in that time. I will do a build without the case though, and I will probably like it so much more than my current computer that I'll just be rocking the naked computer for the next couple months until the case arrives.
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May 23, 2020 05:17
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Question about fans: My motherboard only has 2 fan headers, one for CPU and one for case. I am using an AIO watercooler that itself will take up 2 headers (one for pump and one for fan,) and one case fan needing a third. The pump only uses a 3 pin plug, implying it should be running full power all the time. I am going to be getting a noctua splitter that will let me have 2 fans using a single header, and presumably both would be running at the same speed regulated by the motherboard. The question I have, is should I have these 2 fans (the one on the CPU + the one for the overall case) regulated with the CPU header or the Case fan header? Additionally, should I maybe put the CPU fan + pump on the same CPU header, even though this might lead to the pump operating at less than full speed?
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May 24, 2020 00:17
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Klyith posted:Probably you should just use a Molex or Sata -> 3pin adapter to connect the pump to the PSU, with no speed control. Pumps generally draw more power than normal fans which is why mobos have a special pump header, which are set up for high amps. The AIO might include one. Thanks for the info. Bummer that I didn't really think to check this before I pulled the trigger on the mobo. If I wanted for the ASUS board to come in stock at a reasonable price, none of this would be an issue, as it has 3 fan headers, one of which is specified for an AIO. I didn't realize that the speed regulation happened on the fan side, and not on the motherboard side, so I will try running both the AIO pump and fan on the same header with the splitter, and monitor CPU temps to see if it's providing adequate cooling or not, and if not I will grab an adapter to get the pump hooked directly to the power supply. There are a couple annoying little things about this board that aren't an issue with the ASUS board, but the ASUS board is about $50 more and I haven't seen it in stock once in the last month at normal MSRP. I'll make do with my Gigabyte though.
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May 24, 2020 01:54
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Corsair makes excellent power supplies, and you can order directly from them. You can order now and it will be shipped out within a week or two. I got my SF600 that way at the normal price, shipped after about a week.
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May 24, 2020 10:36
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Jamie Faith posted:OK so I think I'm going with the "NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 2080 TI FOUNDERS EDITION" ($1200) for my graphics card. Hey there bad financial decisions buddy. I just ordered one too, it's a bad value that will drop in price and be replaced as the king of consumer cards in probably less than 6 months. The price:performance is miles away from a 2080 Super, but at this exact moment in time, if money is no object and you are ok having something that becomes obsolete in less than 6 months, that you will be very lucky to get half price for at that time, then yes it's the best money can buy without going to absurd crazy poo poo like a Titan. My plan is that when the 3080 Ti drops, I'll sell my 2080 Ti and use the proceeds to subsidize the upgrade, but this is very foolish financially, and if this is your plan, you should understand this is not a responsible financial decision.
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May 28, 2020 01:33
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Jamie Faith posted:Lol funny thing is, I just saw a bunch of Redditors talking about how this graphics card would be king for YEARS! (granted that thread was like 6 months old) That's what I get for taking Reddit's advice. A 2080 Ti will be relevant for YEARS. A 1080 (non Ti) is still relevant and moderately powerful today, and that came out May of 2016. Admittedly, the 10 series was REALLY amazing when it came out, and the 1080 Ti was released about a year later in March 2017, but it's not a weak card today, 3 years later. If you want something that is powerful now, and will be absolutely functional and reasonably powerful 3 years from now, while also not being a hilarious money sink, go for a 2080 Super. The Super can be had around $700, and it is only slightly weaker than the 2080 Ti, which starts at $1100. Or, the smartest move, if you have a card that's "good enough" for now, is to wait. AMD and Nvidia are almost certainly both going to drop new cards this year, and that will drive down the price of existing 2080 cards, and provide stronger cards at hopefully similar price points. Yes, you can always wait to get a better value later, but we are getting really close to a large shift in the value proposition, and that's one of the best times to buy in in terms of price:performance. EDIT: Jamie Faith posted:Yeah, that's what I meant. I don't need my PC to be the world's greatest PC of all time. Just want it to be a badass that renders whatever I throw at it with minimal hassle. To suggest the best card for you, we will need to know what kind of games you usually play, what resolution you play at, and what framerate your monitor is capable of. If you play strategy or indie games on a 1080p 60hz monitor, then any modern card in the $300-400 range will have you good for years. If you play competitive shooters or lots of AAA games with tons of eye candy and have a 2k 144hz monitor, you might want to go a lot beefier than that if you want it to still be relevant in 5 years. 5 years is a LONG time in terms of computer hardware. Also, you should probably understand nvidia's naming conventions for their cards. XXYY (Ti/Super) XX = Generation, yours is a generation 7. They went 7, 8, 9, 10, 16, 20 more or less (The 16 series is a bit goofy in terms of timeline) YY = Tier, yours is a 60. The cards usually have 50, 60, 70, 80, with 80 being top of the line. The Ti cards are the performance version of that tier, generally much faster than the non Ti. Super is a new thing with the 16 and 20 series, since they refreshed those series with replacement cards that were only slightly more expensive, but a lot more powerful. The Super versions fall somewhere between normal and Ti. If you were to get a modern card at the same level as your old one, that would be a 2060, which for any games that even still play on your 760 would just blow you away in terms of performance. A 2080 Ti would let you use a 2k 144hz monitor and turn every setting to maximum in any game that exists right now, and barring other bottlenecks, you would likely never see the framerate drop below 60, while spending most of the time at 100+. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 04:15 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 01:52
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Sagacity posted:That's fair enough, I suppose. MATX cases will at least also have plenty of free space in them, which means room for a huge CPU cooler. The Fractal Design Meshify is probably a nice alternative, then. Or perhaps one of the Cooler Master Silencio cases. Thanks! Not only just louder, but mITX will also have a much harder time keeping the components cool, so some throttling is almost going to be expected even with the higher noise and higher costs involved. If you need good thermals + low noise, a bigger case is almost going to be a requirement. In preparation of finishing my own mITX build, I have been watching a lot of videos from the Optimum Tech youtube channel (they are one of the top sources of good SFF info), and he showed how you can slightly undervolt your processor to actually get way better sustained performance. Dropping the voltage by just a little bit drops the temps considerably, which actually ends up reducing the throttling to the point that instead of losing over 10% of the performance from throttling, they were only losing 1-2% from the undervolting, which was a big win for overall performance.
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Jun 1, 2020 19:57
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orcane posted:This only really applies if you randomly put high power draw components together in a SFF build and run them at OC defaults. I am busy forcing a 3900X and an RTX 2080 Ti into a Dan Case A4-SFX. I'm going to be doing some careful tightrope walking to get it to reasonable thermals to minimize performance loss due to overheating.
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Jun 1, 2020 20:23
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The B550's would be a good pick if they were priced where the B450's are at, but instead they are being sold at B570 prices because they are the new hot poo poo, despite not being able to justify that cost. I would probably hold off until the B550's drop down to the price range of the B450's.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:41
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Corsair makes some really great, solid hardware. Their software is some of the worst poo poo I have ever inflicted on my computer. I bought a Dark Core wireless mouse when they first launched, and all I did was install the software required to use it, and suddenly my computer started crashing every hour or so, and nothing I did could get the mouse to accept a firmware update, which was needed to get it to track properly and communicate smoothly over the wireless connection. Uninstalling the software didn't fix the sudden and severe stability issues it had introduced. Eventually, hours later, I returned the mouse to Microcenter and got another Logitech mouse. I went home and reinstalled my operating system and was back to a nice rock solid computer. I will buy any Corsair hardware that doesn't require software, but you can't get me to inflict their 'barely not a virus' software on my computer again.
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Jun 18, 2020 04:18
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All the new consoles are going to have ray tracing, so that's going to start being a thing in a lot of games going forwards. It's hard to say, really, and depends on when you are planning on upgrading next. You can get a 2060 Super now and take advantage of the ray tracing that will become common in the next few years, but you might also be having trouble getting good framerates in general. You can get the 1660 Super now, and be good for the next year or two, then when the support for ray tracing is a bit more omnipresent you can upgrade then to have a card that can take advantage of it and not get poor framerates. The processor has 4 cores and 8 threads, so you may actually be alright for quite awhile with that, only really held back by raw performance, and not lack of threads. Personally, I think you might be better off pairing your processor with a 1660 Super and then in 2-3 years upgrade the whole thing.
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Jun 26, 2020 01:55
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yeah ok ok yeah posted:The only other thing that is popping up for me are these flags: PC Part picker can't know if the seller you are buying the cooler from is providing the necessary adapter or not, and the clearances it won't know either, but you should be able to check the manufacturer to know the max height for CPU coolers for that case, but it's probably not an issue. As for the first one, see title of the thread.
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Jun 26, 2020 23:37
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BigD7976 posted:Holy poo poo, you weren't kidding. How is that possible? Or is this a gift horse scenario? He must have bought bulk OEM keys, which are hilariously cheaper than retail keys but exactly as functional (minus being able to easily attach them to a new computer) My guess is he is selling them very close to cost. It's easy to find people online selling windows keys for $25 or so, which would be a solid profit if you can sell enough.
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Jun 26, 2020 23:57
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FreeKillB posted:You need a ~8GB flash drive that you're willing to reformat. The download is available for free from Microsoft, all it needs is a key. I used to use an 8GB one, but at some point it started yelling at me that I didn't have enough space, so I would suggest just playing it safe and going with bigger than 8GB.
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Jun 27, 2020 04:17
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Just grab one of these: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BhmFf7/western-digital-blue-sn550-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t2b0c Using a spinning disk hard drive would make even the highest spec computer feel sluggish. That drive will blow your mind if you have never had a computer with an SSD.
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Jul 2, 2020 07:33
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Kraftwerk posted:I’m going ryzen. Placeholder until 4000 comes out. Once you have your motherboard ordered, look at their list of approved RAM and pick from there. That's the safest way to do it.
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Jul 5, 2020 01:33
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BrainDance posted:It's genuinely impressive how silent this heatsink is. I'm half deaf anyway, but even set to "performance mode" or whatever nonsense it may as well be silent, can't hear it at all. That's always been Noctua's thing. While all the other companies that made coolers and fans were focused on RGB gamer styling, and fans that pushed more air, Noctua was putting a lot of time and money into R&D to develop fans that could push just as much air at much lower noise levels. At this point, now Noctua has the quietest and best coolers on the market, but no real RGB poo poo and outside of Chromax, their fans are still as rear end ugly as ever. I respect a company that has the right priorities.
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Jul 11, 2020 07:52
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Okay, so here is a napkin build based on what I've learned so far: The 2 things I would change to save a little would be to go with a B450 board instead of X570, and go with 16 gigs of RAM instead of 32. Otherwise you are pretty much in the sweet spot across the board. You could use that minor savings to go up a little bit on the video card. There just isn't anything significant to be gained by going B550 or X570 over B450. The only differences you might see would only be able to be measured in synthetic benchmarks. Eventually, when the B550 boards are selling for the same amount B450 boards are now, that would be reasonable, but the X570 isn't super competitive for your build otherwise. Edit: Knocked $40 off your build and got you a 2060 Super and slightly better RAM: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/b62vrV Mistikman fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 26, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2020 02:54
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Bloody Pom posted:It really doesn't help that a lot of RGB software is also a barely-functional mess. Gigabyte's is so bad that I had to uninstall Aorus Engine as well just to get things to reset to the default rainbow cycle. I wish manufacturers would bake RGB control into the BIOS like they have with fan control. I literally had to install RGB controls for both my monitor and my motherboard, because both defaulted to bright circus bullshit and you can't even turn it off without the loving software. For my motherboard, it had lights on if it was on or off, so since my computer is in my room, it meant the only way to make my computer not some loving nightmare lighthouse was to unplug it from the wall when I wasn't using it, unless I wanted their loving RGB malware installed. I loving hate RGB, but it gets added to a ton of otherwise high quality products.
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Aug 6, 2020 05:07
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Lareine posted:I've finally got my computer rebuilt and I am quite happy with the improvement. The i5-4570 was a bottleneck for sure. Just two quick questions. The only problem with using XMP is if you have to RMA your CPU, they will ask you if you used it as a gotcha to deny your claim. So if you have it, use it, and if you have to RMA your CPU lie and say you never used it, because it almost certainly isn't going to have been the cause of your issues, but they can and will deny your claim because of it.
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Aug 7, 2020 01:35
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Ramadu posted:Yeah he got them a month before the new AMD stuff came out and he has more money than he cares about and promptly upgraded all of it to the new stuff so it barely has any use on it too. A good deal indeed! I just need a cooler, a case, and a hard drive though to make it all work. I should also say he gave me free of charge the 1080 and 2080 when he upgraded each generation too lol. But yeah that's why I'm here looking for a good case because the market is bewildering.  I never gave you a 1080. Also apparently I am rich and wasn't troubleshooting an incredibly infuriating crashing issue that resulted in me replacing almost every single component in my computer over the course of 10 months.
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Mar 28, 2021 05:52
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Sniep posted:what is a "SDD" is that what we're calling HDDs now? SSD, and it stands for solid state drive. HDD nowadays generally refers to the older style of drive with spinning disks, which are still commonly used for data drives where access speed isn't particularly important. There are a couple different form factors for SSDs, with the original ones simply being smaller than HDDs but generally hooking up the same way. Newer ones are an M.2 format and connect directly to the motherboard and look closer to a stick of RAM than a traditional hard drive.
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Apr 3, 2021 07:47
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Oh you didn't quote and you weren't responding to the one immediately above yours so I thought you were some dude who wandered into the thread from 1998.
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Apr 3, 2021 07:58
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