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Snow Fire
Oct 29, 2011

Incessant Excess posted:

If I'm using more case fans than my board has headers for, can I daisy-chain some Y splitters together to hook up multiple fans to a single header or do I need a fan controller instead? Anything in particular I should look for in a fan controller if I need one?

Yes, you can generally get away with 3 to 4 fans on a single header. Fan headers have a limit of 1 amp/12 watts on them, so add up the max amperage for the fans to be safe. Additionally, you could buy a fan hub and power the fans off the PSU~

Edit: Also, it depends really what kind of fans they are, if they aren't pwm, then if you want speed control the fan hub would need to have voltage control to control the fan speed. If you have pwm fans, you just need a pwm fan hub, one free fan header, and a free sata power cable. The disadvantage of using a hub is you can only control the fans as a group, which may or may not be a big deal depending on what you're doing~

Snow Fire fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Nov 17, 2019

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Snow Fire
Oct 29, 2011

teacup posted:

I’m probably going to be building a new pc here in Australia in the new year as my old one is slowly dying. Gaming / streaming poo poo I’ve downloaded is the big thing but as my old pc is dying I’ve been playing more games on PlayStation and I love sitting on the couch to play games. My PC will be in the same room as my tv.

What are the best solutions to run my pc easily to my tv? I’ve had poor experiences with steam link. Would it just be easier to run an hdmi cable? Is that bad for any reason?

Also what are some good wireless solutions for controllers? This sounds dumb but how do they know not to turn on your actual console?

Also what’s the best places to look for buying parts in Australia? I’m in Melbourne in the mid/ eastern suburbs so last time just went to msy in box hill.

#1: If the distance is less than 15 meters, than yeah, just get a trusted HDMI cable that's rated for the resolution/hertz of the display and connect a to b~

#2: Assuming you're using a modern controller, they use Bluetooth, so get a motherboard with wifi/bt included and you'll be set. Controllers only work with what they were last sync'd to, so as long as it's sync'd to a PC, it won't power on the console~

#3: Can't help you there, I live not in Australia~

Snow Fire
Oct 29, 2011

SL the Pyro posted:

I have encountered A Big Problem, and apparently the nightmare scenario when building a PC with fresh parts: the Motherboard will not clear POST. I need some fast tech help to narrow down the cause before I'm forced to yell at customer support for replacements.

Mobo: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200
PSU: GAMEMAX RGB-850

For reference, the Mobo uses Q-LED instead of boot codes to diagnose problems. It should be going from DRAM > CPU > VGA > BOOT, but in this case it will not proceed past CPU.
  • The RAM compatibility list for the Mobo doesn't list the RAM I'm using, but it is getting past that point in POST, so ?????
  • Removing the CPU prevents the Mobo from attempting to boot at all. (Not sure if this is normal as the troubleshooting website says the light can reflect there not being a CPU, would like some clarification.)
  • The CPU has no visible damage or dirt that would interfere with operations. It has been reseated several times to no avail.
  • All chassis fans are working (and there are a lot of chassis fans) and the system only shuts down if left to run too hot (the CPU Cooler is temporarily off until I can get POST to work), so it doesn't appear to be a PSU issue.
  • Nothing displays on the screen during any of this. (Screen interface is the HDMI port on the back of the Mobo.)
  • Everything but the CPU, RAM, PSU and screen are disconnected, so there are no external devices loving with things.
  • Attempting to clear CMOS didn't work. (Obviously, since I haven't even reached the BIOS yet, but I tried it out of desperation.)

The HDMI port on the motherboard does nothing if the CPU lacks integrated graphics, which most Ryzen chips lack. Seeing as you didn't list one, do you not have a dedicated GPU?~

Snow Fire
Oct 29, 2011

SL the Pyro posted:

Update: tried the GPU. PCI-E (both slots) seems to work and the RGB and fans work if it is in the slot (though not if it is out of the slot). Unfortunately, nothing changed; the Q-LED still hangs on the CPU light and HDMI from the GPU does not display anything.

How long did you wait on first boot, ryzen does require a fairly short period of time on first boot. Also, assuming the cpu was installed correctly by matching the arrow on the processor with the socket and all that, and the processor has no pins damaged or broken as you said it appeared undamaged, I would suspect the ram might be the issue as it isn't in the QVL you said~

Snow Fire
Oct 29, 2011


Have the 850W version of the Thermaltake GF1 as it was on sale for the same price as the 650W when I got it, been working very well so far and it has flat cables that might work better in the back of a case with less space. Also recall it was reviewed pretty favorably against the Seasonic Focus Plus and Corsair RMx from the tomshardware and kitguru reviews I read about it before I purchased it~

Klyith posted:

The EVGA has a 10 year warranty, the thermaltake only 5.

The thermaltake unit should have a 10 year warranty as it's labeled as such~

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