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I was asking in the AMD thread about whether to wait on Zen 3 or not as my system is starting to show its age (3770k). Decided to go with a 3600x or 3700x right now and drop in a new CPU in a few years - a Zen 3 part if it's compatible or a 3900x / 3950x otherwise. Does it make sense to go with an X570 board? Thinking it's most likely to stay compatible with Zen 3 parts buy who knows. I know the B550 comes out soon, but given I'm going to keep the board for 4+ years the extra cost seems fine. What's a good board for this? I haven't looked into memory yet, but it seems rather complicated. Would again like to get faster memory right now if that will help a better CPU down the road. Are there any recommendations here for faster memory? I like to overclock stuff, but am also happy enough to let auto-OC do its thing if it gets within a few %. Also, thinking of keeping the following components as is from my current build - assembled in Jan 2013. Should I be worried that the power supply and cooler are 7+ years old? Case: Corsair 400R Power Supply: Corsair HX750 80 Plus Gold Cooler: Corsair H100 I don't upgrade often as you can see. Thanks for any insights! v1ld fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 3, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 22:51
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Klyith posted:Case: fine if you like it Ordered a 3600 (non-x) / X570 (MSI Unify) / Noctua NH-D15 and am reading up on memory now. The extra I/O of the X570 may or may not be relevant but the m.2 slots seemed good to have along with some of its other features. The extra cost of the board isn't bad for the period I hope to keep it. The hope is that Ryzen 4xxx is fully compatible and I can upgrade to a beefier 12-core or better in a few years from the last of the AM4-compatible processors, possibly after AM5 has driven their cost down. X570 boards are quite tough to find with a few selling out even over the couple hours I spent reading up on them. It'll be interesting to see how long it takes for the next gen of stuff to be available in large quantities. Thanks for the help! v1ld fucked around with this message at 13:46 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 13:42
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sean10mm posted:I like the idea of moving up to 8 cores even if it's not strictly necessary, so the markup from the 3600x to the 3700x is no big deal, but yeah after doing more Are you planning to do an in-place upgrade to that CPU to a later AM4 cpu? If not, the x570 may be overkill. If yes, then it's worth considering if the 2 extra cores (33%) on the 3700x are worth the nearly $120 price difference to a 3600 (66% more $). I just went through the same decision and decided to buy the 3600 + x570 to upgrade to 4000 series cpu in a few years. But an 8-core now is a totally good choice too, nothing wrong there.
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May 11, 2020 19:06
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the 3800x *really* looks like it's not worth it.
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Another thing you can try to see if it's a heat-related issue (doubtful) is to go into the Radeon software > Performance > Tuning > Automatic > Undervolt. That'll give up some performance for what can be quite a bit of lowered temps. E: Meant to say heat/power, not just heat. v1ld fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 22:44
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AC Origins was pretty bad on my OCed to 4.2GHz 3770K, so I don't know if a 4770 will be much better. I just upgraded from that 3770k to a 3600 and AC Origins was one of the first games I went back to test: it's smooth. But that's after upgrading the graphics card to something more recent as well (RX 5700 with XT bios and OC). AC Origins uses a lot of resources, there's no way around it. It's probably cheaper to buy and play it on a PS4! v1ld fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 21:10
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Inzombiac posted:Good to know. AC isn't a series I play normally but it's the most resource-intense game I have ATM so if I can hit that benchmark, I'll be happy. I'd honestly avoid using AC:O as the benchmark. Games like Red Dead Redemption 2 played much, much better than AC:O on the 3770k + RX 5700. Granted, different games and all, but AC:O just seems to like CPU even when there's no clear reason why. In a crowded city, you'd expect it to need some CPU but it's puzzling when you're blowing out 3-4 cores in the intro dungeon where you're the only thing alive in there. On the 3600, AC:O is using about 3-4 cores max when I look (20-30% of the 12 threads), so it doesn't scale much beyond 4 cores either. Feels like it wants 4 fast cores. Just not the most well-coded game. I think.
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May 19, 2020 21:32
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teagone posted:At what tier of GPU would I be leaving performance on the table if said GPU were paired with an i7-4770 today? I'm finally starting to piece together my SFF gaming PC built with older/used parts, but one of the parts I want to purchase brand new is the GPU. I'm willing to wait if it means there will be a mainstream sub-$250 card coming out in the next few months that won't be bottlenecked by an i7-4770, but if it's better to just get something from the current generation of GPUs, I could use some direction/suggestions. The 3770k I just upgraded to a 3600 from was not stressed except in a very few games: Assassin's Creed: Origins and Jedi Fallen Order were the two worst. I don't run all the latest games, so there may be more. 4 cores vs 8 threads is unknown. My feeling is that 4 fast cores will work for most games and are more important than the 4 extra threads, but that's all intuition. GPU sizing for me was more about upgrading to 3440x1440 from 1080p than being able to run games on Ultra (don't need eye candy I can't see). The 7 year old 7970 (OCed to 1150MHz!) I had still ran fine in most games on High/Ultra at 1080p. So if you're running 1080p there are lots of great and cheap options. I decided to go with an RX 5700 as an interim/medium term GPU because current offerings/prices are too out of whack at the high end for my tastes. The 5700 lets you unlock its potential with the XT bios flash hack and overclocks well. It's been great, running games like RDR2, AC:O and Jedi Fallen Order at a mix of High and Ultra at 3440x1440 and still maintaining 70+ fps. It was only $289 as I went for a cheapo blower card, feels just as good an investment as the 7970 was. Highly recommend this route if you're not averse to flashing/overclocking. The blower is LOUD though, be warned - so a non-reference card may be a better choice. My upgrade path from a 7-year old 1080p, 3770k, 7970 was: RX 5700 > LG 34GK950F-B > Ryzen 3600 over a period of 6 months. I'll bump that RX 5700 next when ray tracing and similar shake out and card prices at the high end drop to a better price/perf ratio. E: VRR was the other big reason for me to upgrade GPU/monitor. FreeSync has been great. The great thing about VRR is that it lets you under-spec the GPU plus you no longer need VSYNC or double/triple buffering to compensate for varying frame rates, avoiding the downsides of both. Even 1080p with VRR is an upgrade over fixed refresh rates and lets you run cheaper GPUs at higher fidelity settings for a good experience. E2: Putting money into a good VRR monitor can let you save elsewhere while giving you a better experience in the end. My old 1080p monitor died a couple months before the big end of year sales and so I bought a $90 1080p FreeSync monitor as an interim until the 3440x1440 I wanted came on sale. It was great with the 5700, came with extended color gamut too. The combo would probably be good for another 3-5 years of games if I wanted to remain at 1080p. v1ld fucked around with this message at 15:05 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 14:36
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Klyith posted:A side-panel fan for fresh air intake is amazingly good for GPU temps. It also is extremely annoying: you can't remove the side panel without a wire that has to be disconnected, and a hole right next to the GPU fans is very noisy. If you're ok with that it's the #1 most effective spot. This is good to hear. I have a Corsair 400R case that permits mounting a side fan right over the GPU but was worried about creating turbulence since that might interfere with front to back flow. If that's not an issue, I'm totally mounting a fan there. Does it still help if it's a blower card (reference RX 5700)? As another poster said: thanks to you and all the other goons helping out in this forum. It's really nice of you and very useful! I have a new machine under this desk and it was put together with y'all's help.
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May 22, 2020 20:05
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Klyith posted:All air movement inside a case is turbulent. Illustrations with smooth airflow lines that go nicely front to back are just that: illustrations. Air never moves like that in a case. (This is why cables are really not an issue for airflow.) What matters is restrictions within ~1/2" of the fan that block air movement. Thanks for that succinct summary. I'll play around this weekend and see if it moves temps in a measurable way on the card. I'm very familiar with those numbers after having done a bunch of OC with it recently.
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May 22, 2020 22:05
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Klyith posted:With a blower GPU it's not as big a deal since a blower will never create a hot air pocket around it. All the hot air goes out the back. Still nice for it to get a source of cool air pointed right at it, you get additional cooling on the back side of the PCB which on GPUs is not trivial. Fans on side panels are such a PITA though. Adding a side fan pointed at the front of the GPU is making a difference in temps, dropping it by 5-10C which is significant for this OCed blower. I wish I could tie the fan curve to GPU Junction temp but am using PCIe 1 temp as a stand in. PCIe 1 temp does track with TJunction but somewhat slowly in both directions, rising and falling, so I've had to set an aggressive curve. But it does work and makes a difference, which is good.
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May 23, 2020 20:06
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Klyith posted:Fans on side panels are such a PITA though. That side fan is making a difference, thought I'd follow up to say that it's not as much of a pain with one of these extra Noctua PWM extension cables I had lying around installed. Lets you detach at the extension point instead of the board and there's a lot of play when detaching the side panel.
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May 26, 2020 22:26
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The recently released Lian Li Lancool II Mesh has very good airflow, reviewed well for features and looks pretty nice. It's challenged my resolve to not upgrade my case until I next upgrade CPU. The Phanteks P400A and siblings are also nice looking mesh cases.
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Aug 6, 2020 12:51
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Samadhi posted:Does anyone know off the top of their heads if there are any X570 boards that have a on-board power button and 2-digit numerical counter (for POST codes and CPU temp) other than the Gigabyte Aorus Master? MSI Unify X570 has both those. Those POST LEDs have come in useful when OCing RAM. I got it for list: $300. It's a good board. They went with only 4 SATA SSD ports and put the remaining lines into 3x m.2, a trade off I like.
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Aug 14, 2020 06:48
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Samadhi posted:Thank you very much. It's slightly more than I wanted to spend on the board, but it looks perfect for what I need. The onboard wifi and 3x M.2 slots are great, so I think I have the board settled. Just FYI because this caught me by surprise: by default the bios is set to have the POST LED display board temperature after a successful init. This can look like a cycling series of failure codes if you're unaware of this feature. I had 1 bad RAM stick out of 4 but the cycling temp display made me think the good RAM combos were bad too for a few hours.
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Aug 14, 2020 16:33
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a fatguy baldspot posted:So I got my new budget desktop in and it doesn’t have a WiFi adapter. I rent a room in a friend’s house (temporarily) and I use his WiFi- unfortunately my room is pretty far from the router and the connection can get kinda spotty with my laptop. Are there very sensitive/powerful (dunno if that’s the right term) WiFi adapters that would be better at picking up the connection? My PS4 is in the same room and does fine, for context, though it is closer to the door. And should I go with a USB adapter or try to get a card in there? It’s a dell optiflex so its a bit smaller than your average tower and after installing the graphics card I don’t have much room. USB 3 ports can interfere with 2.4 GHz devices as in this Intel paper. Are you on a 2.4Ghz band? General advice for Bluetooth / Wifi adapters is to plug them only into USB 2 ports. I bought a cheap old hub to plug those into. Makes a world of difference for gaming controllers connected to the PC via BT.
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Aug 14, 2020 16:40
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:11 |
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a fatguy baldspot posted:So you bought a cheap old hub, plugged the bluetooth stuff into it, then plugged the hub into the regular USB ports? Why not directly plug the adapter into the USB 2 ports instead of the SS/3 USB? Front USB on my case is all 3.0, 2.0 ports are at the back of the case which is still noisy and not line of sight to where I sit. So for game controllers moving the BT dongle to a hub under my desk with LOS made a difference in not having the occasional lag anymore. But the big jump is from not plugging into a 3.0 port. I had the same problem recently with a USB C hub attached to a Switch to which I attached a Mayflash BT dongle (to use a DS4 controller). It was terribly and even unusably laggy until I used that same cheap hub to move the BT dongle off the C hub and to a 2.0 port.
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Aug 14, 2020 21:44
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