|
I've decided to finally bite the bullet and upgrade my ancient i5. I'm keeping my 1660 Super and my H110 GT AIO cooler from my old build. Main purpose is 1080p gaming. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GT 113 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler From previous build, also buying the AM4 adapter Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Best Buy) From previous build Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.95 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $891.79 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-14 01:32 EDT-0400 I'm ditching my old Corsair 750D case because it's way too big for my needs. My only concern is if it will fitting the H110 into the Meshify C be an issue? I'm not too attached if it's a problem. Any other suggestions based on this build are welcome thanks! Nowher fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jul 14, 2020 |
#
¿
Jul 14, 2020 06:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 13:26 |
|
|
Klyith posted:Samsung drives are overpriced relative to equivalent performance drives from their competition. You can get a 1 TB sata drive for $10 more (and keep in mind that there is no perceivable to nvme over sata SSDs yet), or a decent 1 TB nvme drive for $25 more. I have decided to go with the 1TB you linked to. Thanks to all involved with this thread and the no nonsense advice. The amount of terrible information out there (reddit) is bewildering.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
Looks like I landed right into RGB talk.  So through sheer luck I managed to get my hands on a Deepcool castle 240 RGB AIO and a Deepcool 3x CF120 fan kit for a steal. Unfortunately my motherboard does not have an ARGB header and I am not a fan of the preset colors and effects (too bright and effects are annoying). https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-002K-000F8 I've been looking for a USB controller such as: https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/argb-led-controller/ or even this as I only need two outputs https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/argb-led-small-controller/ So... would that allow me to customize the colors on the deepcool fans and cooler or will this only work with coolermaster products? I know I have to use the coolermaster software. I've been out of the loop for a while and all this ARGB stuff is  edit - linked to the wrong product Nowher fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Aug 4, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2020 13:01
|
|
|
Klyith posted:
This has been my experience with my Meshify as well. In normal room lighting conditions the angles on the front panel are really not visible. If you didn't know they were there you probably wouldn't notice them. Great case can't recommend it strongly enough.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2020 23:41
|
|
|
Sooooo..... This is a bit embarrassing. I was remounting the cooler on my B450 board and I accidentally ripped the CPU out of its socket  I pulled up at 90 degree angle and all the pins are all straight but now RAM slot 3 & 4 are dead and I get a DRAM error while booting. I have to have both sticks in slot 1 & 2 for it to boot. (Both 8GB sticks show up for a total of 16) Logic tells me I'm after a new motherboard but is there a chance that it could be the CPU that's causing the fault?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2020 23:49
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Inspect the CPU carefully for pins that were not just bent, but actually ripped clean off the package. Thanks, I checked the CPU under a magnifying glass and couldn't see any bent or missing pins. I was messing around with my radiator and cabling for an hour before pulling the cooler off so the paste was very much settled by then. Lesson learned.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2020 01:55
|
|
|
Zoran posted:PC Part Picker has the price difference between the two at $7. Do you think that's worthwhile? And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless? I found the stock cooler on the 3600 to be pretty awful and loud. But I am pretty picky and I have my Meshify case on my desk close to me so YMMV. If you do get a better cooler be sure to change your fan profile in the bios so your CPU fan doesn't ramp up like crazy when you just open up a few firefox tabs.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2020 23:25
|
|
|
This is probably a dumb question, but are PSU extension cables safe to use? I've got a bunch of pretty braided orange ones from my previous build. I won't be plugging them directly into my Modular PSU just extending the cables that came with it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2020 05:45
|
|
|
Romulux posted:You can't use other modular cables but extensions are okay, right? https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Sleeved-Cable-Extension-Extra-Sleeved/dp/B078WPLFFQ/ I just got an answer to this a few posts above. They are fine as long as you extend the cables from the PSU. Don't plug them directly into modular PSU.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2020 12:26
|
|
|
WampaLord posted:So I hooked up everything, had the big moment of truth power on, and I have nothing showing up on my monitors. No BIOS, no video feed whatsoever. Whether I try the video card or the onboard graphics. Fans are spinning and lights are on, but no signal. Does your Motherboard have troubleshooting LEDs? There's usually four - CPU, DRAM, VGA & BOOT
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2020 05:08
|
|
|
Enigma posted:My build a few days ago was the first time I'd ever encountered those lights and goddamn are they handy. My previous build was second hand 4690k bundled with some godly motherboard. It was the first time I encountered a motherboard with POST codes. I won't lie... I was blown away
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2020 05:23
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:Not sure if this is the right thread, but I was aces building and wiring up my new PC (thanks for the excellent advice, thread!) But I'm having a hell of a time understanding how to set up the dumbest of dumb things - RGB, of course. I really don't understand how I'm supposed to install and manage all of these little lighty up bits. I've got: Using your motherboard software is your best bet in getting everything working together, they vary in quality and most are janky as hell. I recently discovered ARGB implementation is the wild west and there is very little standardisation. I basically gave up having my system looking exactly how I wanted and went with 'close enough'. (Alternative is to buy everything from the same manufacturer) Looking at that list the only thing you wouldn't be able to control is the wraith prism which is connected to a USB header? Will probably need separate software for that. Alternatively you could look into an ARGB/RGB controller like this coolermaster one - plugs into a USB header and all controlled using coolermaster software. Keep in mind its a new product so I can't vouch for its quality https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/argb-led-controller/
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2020 09:11
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Stuff that connects to the ARGB headers on the asus mobo can be controlled by asus aura sync software, which as I understand is the 2nd least worst rgb software. Ha, I'm curious which is the worst one? I'm using the Gigabyte software and yikes...
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2020 09:12
|
|
|
ravenkult posted:It doesn't matter in my case, I'll be using the 2070S for 3d rendering and I can still use it when I get the 3080. The Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro gets recommended here a lot. There are people smarter than me to explain why it's a good choice. I like mine due to the abundance of USB ports at the back.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2020 14:00
|
|
|
CodfishCartographer posted:Thanks for the temp advice! I'll go check those out to see more accurate readings. I had this exact problem when I swapped out my MSI B450 to a brand new Gigabyte B550 board. I fixed it by updating the BIOS by 4 revisions. The only notes they had about the version which fixed it was something like "updated compatibility for PCIe devices"
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2020 01:12
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:why do high end am4 boards have hdmi and displayports when only bottom tier amd cpus have igpus? My use case was upgrading my system and keeping my GPU. Stuck an APU in there and gave it to my dad as a new PC.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2020 04:53
|
|
|
Australian summer is coming and I'm trying to optimise the cooling in my Meshify C build especially as my GPU is running a bit hot. - Will moving my AIO from a front intake to a top exhaust improve GPU cooling? My CPU temps are fine and I figure the more cool air the GPU can get the better. - My case fans curves are set to System temperature, would it help if I tied them to the GPU temperature instead? - Should I run my AIO pump on a curve or just set it to a 100%? I keep reading conflicting reports about this.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Not to any degree worth the effort of moving the rad. The air doesn't increase in temperature that dramatically while going through a heatsink or radiator (because air is really really lovely at absorbing heat). And if you did move the rad to the top, you'd want to add a front fan to blow air back to the GPu area. A GPU being in a zone of stagnant air that it's just recirculating through itself over and over is *way* worse for GPU temps than slightly warmer rad air. I have two exhaust fans at the top and I was going to move them to the front as intake fans. I'll probably have to move the rad to the top once I get a 30xx card so I think I will wait till then. quote:That generally won't be an option on bios-controlled fan speeds, but if you're using a special controller or software-controlled fans it's an interesting idea to look at. My BIOS has the option to tie fans to temperature to 'PCIex16' , which I just assumed was the GPU temperature I'll have to look into this furtherquote:Check your AIO manual because this is different depending on the pump. Some can do voltage-controlled speed, some want to just stay static 12V. Thanks will do.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2020 23:50
|
|
|
Need some assistance with a new RAM kit I purchased please. I’m building my dad a computer so I am giving him my 16GB 3200mhz kit and purchased myself a 32GB 3600 kit. https://www.gskill.com/product/165/326/1562895194/F4-3600C18Q-32GTZNTrident-Z-NeoDDR4-3600MHz-CL18-22-22-42-1.35V32GB-(4x8GB) I got this one specifically because it was on the QVL and on sale. My issue is that once I enable XMP I get a BSOD - ‘VIDEO_SCHEDULER_INTERAL ERROR’ which I assume is related to my video card. If I boot into safe mode or uninstall my nvidia driver the crashes disappear, BUT if I reinstall the driver and set RAM speed to 3466 Mhz my system is completely stable. I have tried latest drivers and updated my BIOS with no luck. So…Do you think I’m looking at dodgy RAM or a Windows 10 re-install? Ryzen 3600 Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro 1660 Super
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2020 22:33
|
|
|
sean10mm posted:Have you tried 1 stick at at time to see if you can isolate it? Good idea I will try that now.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 13:26 |
|
|
sean10mm posted:Have you tried 1 stick at at time to see if you can isolate it? Ok I tried every stick separately. Only one stick out of the four worked fine. Every other stick on its own was unstable and resulted in a BSOD.  I find it hard to accept that 3 out of 4 sticks are faulty but this is really odd.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2020 01:18
|
|