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We used to have a bunch of computers with Antec Sonata at work. When wearing suitable clothes I could charge myself sitting on my chair, then touch the USB port cover on the Antecs and reliably reboot the computers. I could never figure out how that was possible. The cover was just a chromed plastic part attached to the plastic case front. It had no electrical connection to the USB ports or any other part of the computer. I'd like someone to test how damaging static can be. For example, zap a RAM stick and test what it takes before it starts producing errors.
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Jan 17, 2020 23:12
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Admiral H. Curtiss posted:So my question is, how likely am I to run into problems if I go with RAM that is not listed on the compatibility list? Anything in particular I should pay attention to? You approach this from the other direction. Check which manufacturers are available for you and then go to their website to search for a compatible RAM. Corsair, Crucial, G.Skill, Kingston.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:16
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Total Meatlove posted:Would noctua’s and OS management of the fans deal with most of the noise issues? It’s likely to sit in an unused room for the most part, so noise isn’t too bad. big crush on Chad OMG posted:You could buy a fan controller for like $5 and throw it in the case if the MB doesn’t play nice Don't rely on this. Those servers monitor the fan health and RPM, and if too many of the fans are non-functional it will shut down. I'm not sure if the BIOS had an option to disable this feature.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:00
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Kin posted:The stick is good, but it definitely feels like a media player is a bit beyond the scope of it's design and instead its core function (which it excels at) is a basic admin/work machine you just plug into a TV. Sounds to me that part of your problem is that you are using the Compute Stick as media and Plex server instead of just media player. Separate those functions and the Stick will probably handle just fine. Install the media drives in your main computer and let it run Plex, or build a separate computer and but it somewhere the noice will not bother you, let that handle Plex and downloads.
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Mar 1, 2020 23:06
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Shaocaholica posted:I just bought a business laptop used from a recycler and they seem to have installed Win10 on it and activated it. The laptop came with win7 according to Dell service tag. I'd like to swap out to a SSD with a clean install of Win10 so how do I transfer the license? How can I check if the current Win10 license is perhaps in the UEFI? Since the Win10 is already activated the laptop will have been registered for Microsoft and it should activate automatically when you install the same version of Win10. If it's not running Win 10 Pro you might consider upgrading, Win 7 Pro keys can be found cheaply from SA Mart or eBay.
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Mar 12, 2020 15:54
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redreader posted:I'm buying a 3600, tomahawk max and 16gb of ram from B&H when their cart re-opens (they observe shabbat). So I assume I can't just try to run my old version of windows can I? I can't do any kind of backup or anything? I'll have to do a fresh install, and maybe even use a different key? Couple months ago I help someone with their computer. I installed Win10 on my old Intel laptop, then mailed the SSD and they plugged it in their old AMD laptop and Windows worked just fine. Only thing you need is to buy a Win7/8/10 serial key from SA Mart or eBay.
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Mar 15, 2020 02:12
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Klyith posted:WD Red / NAS drives in general are a waste of $ if you're not using then in an actual NAS. They aren't more reliable, they just just have different NAS-optimized firmware. (Primarily, when they encounter an error, they give up much faster than standard drives so that performance isn't affected. Because a NAS drive is assumed to be in a RAID set where the RAID will do error correction.) Recent findings from the Packrats thread indicate that WD Red drives use SMR technology, which basically makes them useless for NAS and shouldn't really be used for anything.
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Apr 29, 2020 21:20
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Agent355 posted:The MOBO I ordered has 2 nvme slots, I figure if I really need more space after I fill 1tb up I'll just buy a second. I really like the free'd up cable space of not even mounting a sata ssd. That Crucial P1 you are getting is a QLC drive which is usually considered suboptimal for OS drive. I couldn't find a recent post in the SSD thread listing recommended NVMe drives, but I think Adata SU800 was one of them.
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May 28, 2020 22:09
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Hakarne posted:Any feedback or changes that keep this around $600 max would be appreciated! I'm a little rusty so I'm hoping I didn't screw anything up too badly... Get the Windows license from SA Mart or eBay.
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Jul 19, 2020 23:32
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Mr Interweb posted:since i got my new PC, there's been little need for me to use my laptop. still, i've had the little trooper around for a long time and there's still both lots of important files i have on it, with also lots of space, so i'd like to keep it around. the problem though, is that it's gotten slow as poo poo. it takes forever to boot to windows and even longer to open up any web browser. it was one of the reasons why i needed a new PC in the first place. but i think this issue could be solved with adding some RAM? my laptop has 4 gigs of DDR3 at 800 mhz, and apparently it uses like 60% just from booting up without launching any programs. Does your laptop have a SSD, it's the first upgrade that should be done to any computer.
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Jul 25, 2020 15:01
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Tin Tim posted:Huh, I wasn't aware that an SSD can be handled like that. I mean I still want to have it be screwed in since it's going to the upper area of my case and I wouldn't trust some tape to hold it up there for the next few years. If the case has 3.5" or 5.25" place at the top you can install the SSD on them using a single screw. They're so light it works just fine. On Terra Firma posted:The problem with cases like these is my cat likes to jump up and turn off the power when I'm doing something important. Disable the power button in Windows power settings, "Choose what the power buttons do".
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Aug 6, 2020 20:54
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LODGE NORTH posted:I hate posting dumbass questions here, but I'm back again with another dumbass question. Buy a set of roller blade style wheels for your chair. Mine are practically silent and the chair rolls around real smoothly. If you have more questions the Computer Chair megathread is the place you want.
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Aug 21, 2020 01:37
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Vorenus posted:My GPU died, and having a 7 year old CPU and 250GB SSD it's time to upgrade. I saw the mention of PowerSpec in the OP and I'm within 30 minutes of a MicroCenter. The RAM is slower than anyone in this thread would buy and the PSU is of unknown quality. But another big issue is the warranty, the PowerSpec only has 1 year. From Klyith's list, the GPU has 3 years, the SSD 5 years, and the PSU also 5 years and you can easily find PSUs with 10-12 year warranties.
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Sep 13, 2020 16:46
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sean10mm posted:
That's certainly a point against them, but it probably shouldn't be a deciding factor if other specs fit your needs better than alternatives. The speed difference is most likely irrelevant and there may be better uses for those two lanes.
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Oct 3, 2020 13:53
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DO NOT BUY THE ASROCK B550 STEEL LEGEND
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Nowher posted:Australian summer is coming and I'm trying to optimise the cooling in my Meshify C build especially as my GPU is running a bit hot. That won't help at all. Every watt of electricity you put in the computer will end up heating you room, no matter what route those electrons take. If you improve the GPU cooling it will run cooler and this will raise it's boost clocks. Thanks to that your games will run at higher FPS, the GPU does more work and will produce more heat. If you want to cool your room you need to underclock and undervolt your GPU and CPU, so they do reduce gaming performance and do less work. Or put your computer next to the exhaust air vent or window, so that the hot air from the computer goes straight outside.
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Oct 5, 2020 16:05
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justdan posted:It just doesn't seem that the shape of the pins fit: That seems to fit. Notched pegs can go in the square holes and the square pegs match with square holes. And the markings on the cable indicate CPU1.
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Oct 7, 2020 15:58
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Asema posted:She streams at 4k I think, or at least I know she streams from her cintiq which is at 4k and if I know her as well as I think I do, there's no way she's changed OBS settings to put that resolution down. Isn't streaming like heavily CPU ? That Samsung 860 EVO is overpriced and underperforming, nowadays there are better NVMe options available. I think the A-Data SX8200 is the usual recommendation at that size. You also shouldn't buy full priced Windows license, eBay and SA-Mart have much better deals. And with Windows 10 you probably want Pro for some of the extra features. Even recycled Win 7 Pro licenses are suitable for activation.
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Oct 10, 2020 08:54
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Zarin posted:I've seen people mention standoffs before, but I'm trying to envision what that would look like . . . if all the screws go in correctly, how could it be an alignment issue? One way is to install standoffs on all the spots in the case, but not check how many screwholes the motherboard actually has.
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Oct 26, 2020 00:37
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Sab669 posted:Neat, got my 2060 today. I was expecting to miss the delivery and have to pick it up tomorrow You might want to keep it until the Step Up is complete to have something to game with during the process.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:51
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Now to sign up for EVGA's Step Up program...
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spunkshui posted:I know Samsung has put out a statement saying that its totally unnecessary but I’m of the opinion that computer parts will live longer if you let them run cooler. Also remember that while the NVMe processor may benefit from extra cooling and in some extreme cases may prevent thermal throttling, the actual flash chips on the other benefit from running hot. So you don't want to use one of those large heat spreaders, but you could consider one of those heat transfer strips that move heat from the processor to the flash chips. Just today someone even posted an explanation why the chips prefer heat in the SSD thread. BobHoward posted:The stuff your friend mentioned about high temps being desirable while power is on is both true and not true. The not-true part is that leakage should reduce with lower temps, so fade is slower while the memory is cold. The true part is that, for physics Reasons which I don't understand, performing write/erase cycles while the temperature is high can partially heal worn floating gate insulation, extending the usable life of the memory cells and improving retention time for the data just written.
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Nov 7, 2020 21:16
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junan_paalla posted:Okay I finally put together a somewhat realistic list, and my local PC store has a 3070 in stock so I'm thinking of pulling the trigger, anything obviously wrong with my choices here? I agree with what Mu Zeta said. After those saving replace the harddrive with some cheap 2TB SSD, a computer of that caliber doesn't deserve spinning rust.
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Nov 9, 2020 08:57
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midge posted:I've have a (potential) buyer beware story about MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI. If you press the GPU in the slot how well does the screw notch line up with the screw hole in the case? I've had cases where those were completely off and I had to set the screw to only hold the edge of the card bracket.
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Nov 20, 2020 22:40
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bus hustler posted:Can't believe I'm posting this as if it's a hot item but these should be step-up eligible & as far as I know there are no step up eligible cards in stock anywhere. I believe Office Depot isn't an authorized EVGA reseller that is eligible for step up.
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Dec 10, 2020 13:07
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schreibs posted:Thanks, already got the GPU and CPU doing the discord alert route. It's a Festivus miracle! Well I must admit the P5 is not a bad choice, at least it's TLC NAND with DRAM, decent performance and not a bad price. But I must comment that your fatal mistake was choosing the product based on the lies from the manufacturer. You never choose anything based on the numbers printed on the package, you read reviews. With quick search the first review I could find comparing 1TB P5 and SN550 was from Tom's Hardware. It's difficult to decide which is better since they are ahead in different tests. But since the P5 isn't clearly better than SN550 yet costs more it's hard to recommend it.
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Dec 16, 2020 19:51
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Acer Pilot posted:i was looking at all the other brands you suggested and they seem pretty good and cheaper but canada computers doesn't carry a lot of them. They seem to currently have the WD Blue SN550 2TB, which is the usual recommendation.
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Dec 20, 2020 01:17
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Elman posted:I'm a bit lost there cause he claims hard drive speed is very important for his work and I don't enough to argue otherwise but it does feel like a cheaper 1 or 2 TB SSD would be better. Also 500GB seems to me like it's cutting it close even if he has a huge 3TB hd for storage. If drive speed is important then there is no room for hard drive, replace that with a large SSD. The Evo 980 is undoubtedly fast, but I doubt he would benefit from it since there aren't many ways to process data that fast. 7 GB/s is about a full length movie in 5 seconds, what could you do that fast. You can read the whole SSD in a little over a minute. A CPU can't compress nearly that quickly, I doubt video editing would be much different. Maybe some operation would take half a second instead of 0.55 seconds, but that's not something a human would notice. Better to get a bigger and cheaper NVMe.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:57
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Head Bee Guy posted:>In USA Your SSD choices are weird. You have chosen one of the fastest and most expensive of the slow SATA SSDs and one of the cheaper and slower of the fast NVMe drives, although you may not notice a practical speed difference. Your motherboard has space for two M.2 drives, either both NVMe or NVMe and SATA. WD SN550 is the usual recommendation for NVMe, probably Crucial MX500 for a 2.5" SSD.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:22
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enojy posted:My eyes lit up at this thing! Thanks. I didn't even consider actual gear like this; my head was stuck in the realm of PC-specific applications. If I understood your needs correctly, that Mackie won't work for you, it lacks an amplifier for your passive speakers. But passive speakers are definitely not traditional PC hardware, so you won't find much help from that side. Since the size and heat of your current amplifier seem to be your biggest issue, then a Class D or T amplifier is probably your solution. There a copious amount of cheap and small amps available, the biggest difficulty is finding a one that supports optical input. This KEiiD model seems like the best match after quick search, but it is a larger size. Fosi Audio DA-2120A and RGBTEK were smaller, but they lack headphone output. On the Fosi the optical input also doesn't support Dolby Digital or DTS, but 2-channel PCM audio is probably enough for you. But there are so many different models available I would expect there is something better fit for your needs. If the headphone output isn't good enough for your phones, a separate headphone amp is an easy solution as long as headphone or line output is available, for example the REC output on some of these models. Douk Audio NS-19G Sabaj A4
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Jan 3, 2021 00:05
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cr0y posted:Not really looking to upgrade to a super pricy primary GPU as this desktop is mostly just treading water until I build a new Ryzen gaming rig. Will a second GPU not work? Your motherboard already integrated Intel GPU, just use that. You probably need to go to BIOS to enable it. Advanced - Chipset Configuration - IGPU Multi-Monitor.
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Jan 8, 2021 20:56
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Boxman posted:How critical is getting this heat sink onto the nvme drive? the screws don’t seem long enough to go through both the sink and the drive. Obviously I’m inclined to think “heat sink included it is needed” but I see boards sold without them, so I’m not sure. It's basically irrelevant, it's mostly a decoration. The controller may throttle speeds, but in practice only during benchmarks. The NAND flash chips on the other hand prefer running hot so you don't want to cool them. It might just be useful to have a metal strip that transfers heat from the controller to the flash chips.
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Jan 10, 2021 16:02
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Vargatron posted:Okay what I decided was going for an integrated GPU/CPU setup for the time being with the expectation to add in a video card later if I'm still needing the extra power. That CPU should come with a cooler so the Rosewill is unnecessary, unless you bought a significantly better cooler. You can get Windows license for $10-20 from SA Mart or eBay.
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Jan 12, 2021 01:17
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PirateBob posted:What do you guys suggest I do now then? There are 9 of them screwed in and I don't think any of them will be easy to get out... Follow Pilfered's advice and also get a large high quality screw driver with exactly the correct size head. It would be much better if you can remove the screws from the standoffs normally than having to drill them out. Also purchased a new set of compatible standoffs, your current ones are probably screwed and I wouldn't dare to use them even with the correct screws. Amazon and possibly your local electronics store should have compatible standoffs. Never ever force a screw. If it requires more force than usual stop what you are doing and re-evaluate. If you don't know how much force is usual, assume it requires minimal force unless you are dealing with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are not used with computers. If you are not sure which screws are correct ones try them with just your fingers.
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Jan 17, 2021 23:23
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Would there be any major concerns in terms of reduced performance by getting a M.2 PCI-E card, and to stick it into the second 16x PCI-E 3.0 slot I have? Minor limitation is that the second x16 slot runs at x4 speed, which is fine for NVMe, but if you use any of the x1 slots then that also drops to x1 speed. Manual page 29. doomrider7 posted:Forgot to add that it needs to be semi-modular. Reason being that most of the time I've had issues with full modular ones where they don't post due to the CPU not getting power or something to that effect since they don't have the cable for it and I need to buy one. That said, I'll definetly keep this one in mind. What kind of motherboards have you used, since all modular PSUs come with the required cables.
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Feb 6, 2021 02:42
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spunkshui posted:https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Systems/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-i7200-Series-Gaming-PC/p/CS-9050011-NA#tab-overview The components are probably good or good enough, the extra expense is unfortunate but acceptable in these days. The worst thing about this I'd say is the 2 year warranty. If you built yourself you could mostly get components with 2, 5 or even 10 year warranties. RMA process is a question. With self built it would be good if you manage to diagnose the problem and RMA the correct component, not sure if you would have to return the whole computer with the Corsair.
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Mar 1, 2021 02:39
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Malaria posted:What do I want here? What's the deal as far as size vs cost? Seems like the 8tb Seagate 5400rpm ones look like a decent enough deal(150ish on newegg). The usual deal is WD Easystores or some other external USB drives, which you then take apart (shuck) and use the internal drive in your computer. You can find more up to date information in the NAS megathread.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:56
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Ciprian Maricon posted:I'm currently toying with the idea of going in for a VR headset so I can play flight simulators like DCS in VR. Specifically considering an HP Reverb G2. My current rig is i7 8700K and i think that's fine for the task, but I'm wondering if replacing the 1080 Ti is something I should consider or considering the prices of cards at the moment should I settle for what I have for the time being? You really want to get a verification for this or find recommended specs for running DCS World with the Reverb G2. For me DCS has definitely been the toughest VR load to handle. Flight simulators are generally resource hogs and Eagle Dynamics may be a too small outfit to optimize it well. I have i5-3550K, GTX 1660 and Oculus Quest 2, usually use it with Virtual Desktop. With DCS this setup managed maybe 30FPS. I haven't done much work yet to tinker with settings to improve it. But this setup runs pretty much any other games just fine. With Elite: Dangerous I haven't noticed any frame rate issues, except maybe on planet surfaces, but that may be just the bumpy ride. Star Wars: Squadrons also seemed to run with my limited testing, with default settings it seemed to even run better than with my 1440p144 monitor. There are three sources you could try for better information. Our own DCS World megathread, DCS World: This 2080Ti might finally let me hit 50 FPS!, the title of which may already tell you all you need. The general VR megathread. And the Eagle Dynamics VR forum.
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Mar 20, 2021 16:26
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crepeface posted:my cousin went against my advice and bought a gaming pc off facebook market. when i told him to at least check the ram speed, the guy said it was 1600 MHz. he ended up upgrading it to 2400 MHz, but i'm pretty sure there was an incompatibility issue with the mother board so for non-gaming tasks, it was slower than the 10 year old pc i gave him lmao. I fear there may be confusion with units. DDR4-3200 runs at 1600MHz and it's faster than DDR4-2400. Hopefully you meant the lowest spec DDR4-1600 which runs at 800MHz.
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Mar 29, 2021 09:41
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Neuronyx posted:Huh! Cool. I must be dumber or more behind than I thought, I remember it being more difficult... It varies quite a bit by laptop model, generally the smaller and thinner it is the harder it may be. And many newer models make it more difficult. But traditionally for harddrives it was common that you only needed to remove one screw and slide a HDD tray out from the side, then remove four more screws to remove the drive from the tray. For RAM there was often a small hatch on the underside with single screw and the RAM slot was right underneath it. If you want to be sure you google for the service and maintenance manual. Here's the manual for my laptop I happened to download today. It pretty much has complete instructions to take it apart and full parts list.
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Apr 24, 2021 23:49
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roomforthetuna posted:Man, those SN550 *are* reasonably priced. Last I heard EVO was always the thing to do for SSDs, is that information also a decade out of date? It's dangerous to make far reaching conclusions based on brand when it's pretty trivial to check from reviews what is the current reality. This applies to all computer components. My understanding is that up to the 850 models Samsungs were one of the best performing models, trustworthy and about the best price-performance ratio, so they were the preferred drives. Later models were still just as good, but they were judged to be overpriced compared to the competition so they fell out of favour. In only the past year their prices has fallen enough at least on sales, that they have gained some of their favour back. But I remember also seeing opinions in the SSD megathread that their price has fallen because the performance isn't quite where it should be. From the Anandtech SSD 980 review: quote:Compared to its most important competitor, the year-old WD Blue SN550, the Samsung SSD 980 clearly hits better highs but also has more serious pitfalls. Both drives are DRAMless SSDs optimized for workloads that don't handle too much data at once. When a workload strays outside those limits, the WD Blue SN550 is the clear winner that holds up better under heavier workloads. Which of the two drives is preferable will largely come down to pricing.
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May 1, 2021 12:43
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roomforthetuna posted:I'm leaning towards being cheap, because I've been developing on laptops for the last 10 years so y'know, as long as it's faster than a [checks current CPU] "Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-7300HQ CPU @ 2.50GHz, 2501 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)", I'm not going to be especially upset by it. How have you identified that amount of RAM is the bottleneck on your current system. Based on your usage description my gut instinct would have been to concentrate on CPU performance and core count instead of RAM. I haven't done large scale compiling, but I wouldn't expect it to need that much RAM. Android emulators might change the situation, but do they need that much RAM and how many of them would you want to run simultaneously. How I usually understand it is, that there is some amount of RAM you need. If you are under that amount you will have a bad time with all the swapping, but going above that will show only minimal benefits. It mainly increases the size of file cache, but with a NVMe drive you shoud have reduced need for that. With CPU performance and cores it's much more linear. There's certain amount of cores you can effectively use, but going under it won't reduce performance that badly and going above should show at least small improvement. Your case don't seem to have support for USB 3.2 Gen2x2 header, so that won't provide you any benefit. Unless you install extra cable and route it to somewhere in the back or front of the case, but that may be a bit janky solution. Of course you could switch your case, there looks to be couple models for $70.
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May 2, 2021 13:37
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