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1. What's a good reliable 4tb+ HDD? Doesn't have to be super quick, won't be running games or apps from it, just for storage. And if I can sneak in a related question: How do you check a HDD's health/remaining lifetime? And what the heck is SAS? Last time I bought a HDD it was all SATA. PirateBob fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 21:30
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Bryter posted:NAS drives like WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf are what you want. You can use a program like crystal disk info to check a drive's SMART info. Don't worry about SAS, it's mostly used by enterprise servers, consumer motherboards don't even have SAS controllers. Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf. How do you interpret the info from CrystalDiskInfo? It says "reallocated sector count: Current 100, Worst 100, Raw data 0000000000"
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Dec 1, 2019 21:56
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Indiana_Krom posted:That basically means 100% for that parameter (others can work in different ways). If your drive did have reallocated sectors, I would think about replacing it, but perhaps more important than the number itself is if they increase. If a drive keeps reallocating sectors over time it is a clear symptom of impending failure. But if a drive has some reallocated sectors and that number never changes over weeks and months of use, it is possible some part of the media went bad for whatever reason and it isn't going to spread anywhere else. But a healthy drive should always have zero. Bryter posted:Means you have no reallocated sectors, which is good. If you have anything to worry about there will be a warning. Thanks guys!!
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Dec 2, 2019 14:47
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stump collector posted:Since you are comfortable with waiting, the AMD 5500 and 5500xt should be released soon. I think you'll want to wait until the dual/triple fan versions come out for those cards. This also may drive the price down of Nvidias 1650/1660s, so those could be another good option. What is the actual difference between 1660 and 2060/70/80? Both "generations" seem to get recommendations...
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Dec 2, 2019 18:15
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Stickman posted:The structural difference is that the 16XX series lacks raytracing support, but the 20XX cards are also more powerful. Here's the rough relative performance for 10XX, 16XX, and 20XX cards over the 1060 6GB Cool, thanks. I doubt raytracing is super useful as of yet. Will probably need another generation or two to get much out of that.
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Dec 2, 2019 19:20
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Welp. The motherboard on my trusty old i5-2500k is finally failing after a decade. Many issues are popping up, one of them is that it doesn't turn itself off when I choose shut down or restart in Windows. Screen turns off, keyboard lights go off, computer remains on at unchanged noise level. Is this likely a motherboard issue or a PSU issue? I'm hoping to keep this PSU for my new build. It's an EVGA 750 G2 and it's only around 4 years old. Anyway, I need recommendations! I need everything except PSU (maybe), GPU, monitor. I'll upgrade those (GTX 970 and 1200p) at a later time. I want value for money, but perhaps not the bottom level components. I want them to last for 5 years or more. Also, there should be no need for flashing BIOS or anything like that. I'll be using it for a bit of everything, including gaming. Future proofing is the key here, without spending stupid money. For storage I'll need both a sizable SSD and a big HDD, 6TB maybe. I live in Europe btw. Thanks
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Feb 6, 2020 12:30
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Are you sure this isn’t a Windows thing? Dunno, but there are other issues too. On-board internet functionality is knocked out more often than it works. Also something about my C drive needing repairs when I booted Windows. Figure it's time I took a hint. Motherboard, CPU and RAM is all around a decade old. The SSD errors are a surprise, that one is only 5 years old.
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Feb 6, 2020 14:01
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Klyith posted:Windows telling you that your drive needs repairs can be a hardware fault, or it can be pure software errors loving up the filesystem. You should get a program that can report drive health like CrystalDiskInfo, or a utility from the drive manufacturer (Samsung Magician, WD SSD dashboard). Even if you're gonna upgrade anyways, more SSD space is always good. I've run CrystalDiskInfo. On the C: SSD it shows a "POR Recovery count" of 000...3E, and a wear level of 000...4. *shrug* Okay, forget I said future proof. Give me some recs, good people, for solid mid level components that are *more likely* than the bottom range components to last a while, without bloat or overpaying. 
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Feb 6, 2020 22:41
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Welp, my computer is bluescreening and crashing apps. Time to upgrade. I'm looking to keep using my EVGA 750w power supply, GTX 970, and 1200p monitor for a bit longer. So I guess I need a decent cpu, mainboard, 1tb+ SSD, 4tb+ storage drive, and case. Maybe I'm forgetting something.  Should be able to run next-gen games (once I upgrade the gpu). What are some good components that are available in Europe? Budget: €800?
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Jan 4, 2021 18:22
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:e;fb - but I would get a new PSU unless the one you have is <3 years old, still under warranty, and you are certain it is not the cause of your problems. Oh, okay. The PSU is 4 years old. I'll get a new 750w then. I don't think I can afford several SSDs for storage purposes. I want at least 6tb, come to think of it. UHD media takes up a ton of space. I'll get a 3070 when the price is much lower. Goddamn GPUs have gotten expensive since the 900 generation. As for CPU - the 5600x looks like a good buy. But it won't be in stock for several weeks here. I don't think I can wait for that. I'm thinking 3700x (might do some rendering and encoding) for now. A quiet cooler would be nice too. Thinking Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B, unless there's something better at similar price. I need a good motherboard that supports both the 3700x and a future CPU upgrade. I don't think I need wifi. Doesn't have to be tiny. I think a midi-tower case will be fine. Edit: I forgot all about RAM. What type/frequency do I need? PirateBob fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 22:05
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ing stock drop discords.
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:If the PSU has a 10-year warranty, thread consensus is it should be fine. For my money, I'd always buy a new one: a PSU is generally ~10% of the cost of a new system, which is a small investment to protect a grand or more of hardware. Thank you, "Toxic Fart Syndrome". Although the gaming performance looks tempting with a 5600x, the delivery situation looks terrible atm. A 3700x will have to do. I'll probably be gpu limited in the most demanding games anyway. Can't afford €500+ for a gpu. What is "the mobo's QVL"?
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Jan 5, 2021 17:22
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A couple more questions: I read a review of the ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming Wi-Fi on anandtech (maybe this isn't the best site for reviews, please suggest others) and it seemed like a good option. However user reviews warn of potential trouble with BIOS/network etc. What's a good mainboard with good on-board sound and bluetooth (for wireless controller) - I guess the bluetooth capability comes from the same component as the wi-fi thingy? Coolers: What's the difference between Scythe Mugen 5 Rev B and Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition? I won't be overclocking. I just want something that'll keep a 3700x as healthy as possible while making as little noise as possible and being easy to install.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:31
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pocket pool posted:I just finished an upgrade with the non-wireless version of this board and a 5600X - I picked it because I saw it used in builds here and I needed an optical SPDIF output. (There is an MSI board that GamersNexus recommended I also considered, but it didn't have the SPDIF out.) Uhh that sounds like more trouble than I want. What's the MSI board you considered? I doubt I need SPDIF.
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Jan 5, 2021 20:33
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How do you update a motherboard's BIOS to enable support for the newest CPUs? Do you need to use another cpu to even do that?
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Jan 5, 2021 21:55
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Butterfly Valley posted:You wouldn't need to do it with a 3700x. Cool, thx. I seem to remember something about RAM benefitting from dual channels. Does that mean you get higher performance (other than capacity) from 2x16 compared to 1x16?
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Jan 5, 2021 22:27
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The MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon WiFi seems like a good choice, unless anyone has anything alarming to say about it?
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Jan 5, 2021 22:37
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.64 @ MemoryC) Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 GAMING CARBON WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($188.32 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Red 6 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($145.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Define S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($179.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1072.91 I was pretty set on a 3700x, then I got the chance to buy an unopened 5600x today for 20 above retail. Thought that was a decent deal so I jumped on it. Comments on the build?
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Jan 7, 2021 22:23
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RAM - 3200 CL16 or 3600 CL18? Does it even matter? To get 3600 CL16 I'd have to add 35 to the price (32gb)
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Jan 8, 2021 19:29
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What do you actually need to flash one of these new motherboards for 5000 compatibility, without having a cpu installed? Motherboard, PSU, USB stick (formatted to FAT32 I assume)? Anything else?
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Jan 9, 2021 00:54
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How long does it take? How do you know if it's done and you can unplug the stick?
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Jan 9, 2021 01:06
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Butterfly Valley posted:Check the documentation for your specific motherboard. Thanks. I'm reading that they're finicky, and that USB 2.0 sticks are more likely to work. Does anyone have a name of a USB 2.0 stick that has worked to bios flash an MSI B550 motherboard?
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Jan 9, 2021 01:53
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I've ordered my new pc parts  Anyone know how the onboard audio is on these modern motherboards? I've ordered the MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon Wifi. Will the audio quality be good enough and loud enough or should I get a soundcard?
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Jan 9, 2021 18:52
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While I'm at it... How much money would I have to part with to get a GPU that can play 4K video (my gtx 970 can't do this) and run PS5 generation games at a decent level? I don't need 4k 165 fps or ultra details. 1440p at 60+ would suffice.
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Jan 10, 2021 01:56
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Helter Skelter posted:4k video playback should largely be taken care of by your CPU upgrade. That's a lot of  ... drat.I'll see how the 5600x handles 4k playback before I decide.
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Jan 10, 2021 14:21
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Why are all these RTX cards called "dual" or "twin"?
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Jan 10, 2021 17:49
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aparmenideanmonad posted:Just wanted to say thanks to all the regulars for keeping this thread an excellent fount of info that I once again used to update myself prior to building. I'd been wanting to build since early 2020 and finally got it done about a week ago. Look solid. Good value for $1600. Congrats on the 3070. 
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Jan 11, 2021 16:51
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Is there a webcam that doesn't suck balls/cost a lot?
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Jan 11, 2021 17:17
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Samadhi posted:I checked the last few pages and didn't see this linked, so since I had the same concerns with my 5800X: AMD views Ryzen 5000 CPU temperatures up to 95C as ‘typical and by design’. Da fuk. How's that gonna impact lifetime?
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Jan 11, 2021 20:21
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:It shouldn't. The article covers it, but basically AMD claims the components can withstand those temps without any damage. They'd also leave headroom to prevent issues with spikes. As long as you're not getting performance throttles from temp, and it doesn't adversely affect the temp of your other components, it's perfectly acceptable. Hm yeah I'm still going to be a little sceptic about the longevity of components that you can literally fry an egg on 
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Jan 11, 2021 22:02
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Interesting take. No, I had no idea. That's crazy. In my mind, over 100c is where things are liable to start burning.  Guess I had the boiling point of water in mind.
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Jan 11, 2021 22:40
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The Grumbles posted:I built my first new PC in 2020 in about 10 years - and my first ever AMD CPU, and the high temps gave me the heebie jeebies too. But honestly, AMD CPUs are designed to run hot. I don't know if better cooling will mean it jumps up to the boost clock more, (someone else in this thread probably does), but yes, it'll run just fine hot. To be honest, the only reason I swapped out for an aftermarket cooler is that the stock Wraith Stealth cooler was far and away the loudest component in my PC. Even with the fan curves messed around with in the bios, it was incredibly loud. Putting in an aftermarket cooler has made it much much quieter - and there's capacity to reduce the ambient noise more if I decide to swap in the fan that came with the cooler for a noctua. Oh. Good thing I ordered a cooler for my 5600x. Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B. Hoping it's a silent one. 
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Jan 12, 2021 20:14
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:The scythes tend to focus on quiet rather than crazy cooling, so you’ll likely get that. Butterfly Valley posted:The fans they use on their coolers top out at 1200rpm so as Pilfered says, they're quiet. Theyre also excellent coolers, I've barely seen my 5600x top 70c under load with the Fuma 2 in an ITX case. 
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Jan 13, 2021 16:31
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Helping a friend build a PC and I'm debating between a 3600 and a 5600x. I'm going to be loaning him a 1060 6GB for the time being so he can play games while waiting for probably a 3070. Depends on whether you want to the system to be more future proof and not have to gently caress around with an upgrade in a few years. Also whether he wants to play at really high fps. If you were going to be using the PC for 4K, the cpu wouldn't matter so much because you'd be GPU capped anyway. But for 1080p and 1440p, there's a difference between 3600 and 5600x. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTUqd0SUIgI&t=454s
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Jan 15, 2021 17:07
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Where am I supposed to ask for help regarding the actual building of the PC? Yes, I'm an idiot. I haven't done this in forever. Some things I've forgotten and some things are totally new. I've never seen a PSU shroud or an M2 drive before. It's a Fractal Define 7 case, Corsair RM750x PSU (fully modular), MSI B550 Gaming Carbon Wifi mobo (I managed to flash the BIOS for my 5600x, yay! )Can I remove the PSU shroud? Do I have to attach all the cables I might need before I slide in the PSU? Is there something I need to know before I mount the mobo? Or is it just placing it right down and adding screws? I seem to be missing an I/O panel too. It wasn't in the case box. A comprehensive video guide for dummies would be helpful.
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Jan 15, 2021 22:21
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FlamingLiberal posted:There are some guides on YouTube I think the panel is part of the mobo, nothing else needed? See the picture: https://www.modders-inc.com/msi-mpg-b550-gaming-carbon-wifi-motherboard-review/ Rexxed posted:The IO plate comes with the motherboard since it's fitted to the ports on the back of the motherboard. Most of the PSU shroud questions vary by case. In the ones I've built you can access everything from the right side panel on the case and the shroud is just covering the top and left side of the PSU, so you put the PSU in and hook up the cables you'll need in situ. That said if it's difficult to reach you could attach some before hand. I'd put the CPU and RAM and maybe heatsink on before putting the board into the case just to make it easier (unless the heatsink is huge but sometimes even if it is). Install RAM as your motherboard manual suggests (it wants specific slots for dual channel). The M.2 drive might also be easier to slot onto the board when it's out of the case. It will have a standoff and small screw that may need to be relocated from a different hole or will be in the motherboard box somewhere. Once you're happy you put the board down and slide it slightly back into the port plate holes (make sure the random tabs that are supposed to spring against the ports don't flip the wrong way and block any) then line up the 9 holes for screwing the board into the standoffs. Also, pre-check that there aren't extra standoffs touching the back of the board and make sure you're not missing any before installation. Once it's in you can hook up the front panel connectors which is honestly one of the most annoying things to do but the motherboard manual will have the pinout. Thanks! It's not as hopeless as it seemed. There was a panel to be removed to open up the shroud from the left side.`Edit: What about CPU power? The mobo has one 8-pin (cpu pwr 1) and one 4-pin (cpu pwr 2) socket. My PSU has 2 CPU cables but they're both 8-pin...? PirateBob fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 01:02
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FlamingLiberal posted:If it actually looks like that then yes, you're good. That is the panel there. Pilfered Pallbearers posted:The extra 4-pin is if you wanna push like 400w+ of power through the CPU. Which is you’re here asking us, you’re almost certainly not going to do. Also, I'm installing the PSU with the fan facing downwards. It seems to make sense that way, pulling in cool air from the outside rather than warm air from the case. There's some clearing underneath thanks to the feet on the case. That's fine, right? PirateBob fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 09:00
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Am I missing something? When I try to mount the motherboard (MSI b550) into my Fractal Define 7 case, the mounting screws won't go all the way down. They tighten, but there's plenty of space left.
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Jan 17, 2021 15:10
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vanilla slimfast posted:You’re probably using the wrong screws. I did the exact same thing the first time I tried to mount my motherboard in my meshify C case. The mobo mounting screws are pretty small compared to most of the others Oh. Hm. I'm kinda screwed then. They wouldn't come out again. So I screwed them in as far as they would go instead. They seem to be holding the motherboard more or less in place, *shrug*...
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Jan 17, 2021 17:35
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My new PC is *totally quiet*. I can't even hear it running (light use). The Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B seems like an *awesome* cooler.
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Jan 17, 2021 17:37
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spunkshui posted:^^ yeah I agree Yes it has standoffs. I used screws that I identified as "mounting screws" in the Define 7 User Guide. They also listed another bag as mounting screws though. Without saying which ones to use. After the first big one didn't go all the way in (and wouldn't come out again either - sounded like the standoff would have to be pulled out along with it if I'd really tried), I tried one of the smaller screws a different place and it didn't seem to fit. What do you guys suggest I do now then? There are 9 of them screwed in and I don't think any of them will be easy to get out...
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Jan 17, 2021 19:47
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