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vanilla slimfast posted:B550 is a newer chipset compared to the X570. This guide covers the differences pretty well but the main thing you get with X570 is additional PCIe 4.0 from the chipset, whereas on the B550 you only get it from the CPU. So unless you are planning on running multiple PCIe 4.0 NVMe drives, the B550 is probably a better option (or at least this is the logic I followed with the build I just ordered). "Newer" isn't necessarially better here. B550 boards are basically a lower-grade X570, albeit in ways that mostly won't matter to people who need to ask. If a B550 board offers what you feel you need, and it's cheaper than the X570 equivalent, then go ahead and save some money. But there are a lot of X570 boards that are as cheap or cheaper than some B550's, so it's not always simple. Basically if you don't think you'll ever need multiple super-high speed NVMe drives or a fuckton of USB 10Gb ports, you can treat B550 and X570s as functionally equivalent and make your decision based on other factors (price, wifi, RGB puke, etc). The X570's are theoretically better for overclocking, but AMD chips don't OC for poo poo anyhow.
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Oct 25, 2020 18:57
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Gearman posted:Unless there's a feature you really want and can't get elsewhere, I'd get an x570 over a b550 assuming they're the same price. At $200, I'd really lean towards x570 over b550. In general, I'd agree, but be sure to compare feature sets carefully. For example, the ASUS TUF Gaming B550 Plus has WiFi 6, 2.5Gb LAN and a TB3 header, while the X570 version has WiFi 5, 1Gb LAN and no TB3, despite being $20 more. Sometimes you give up a lot for that PCIe 4.0 bridge link. 
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Oct 25, 2020 19:41
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sean10mm posted:I'm not even sure it's true that the X570 is a better OCing chipset than B550 even in theory. From like $170 up the B550 boards are literally built just like X570 boards in terms of VRM/PCB/etc. and perform identically in testing I've seen. I mean in the sense that you can get bottom-tier B550 boards, whereas you can't go down as far with an X570. You're right that OCing Ryzen is pretty limited to begin with, though, so overclocking headroom is largely meaningless anyhow.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:21
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Asema posted:Fair enough. But like people have posted about that on the internet anyway so I figured maybe it wasn't as simple as that There's not much else we can do to help you here, unfortunately. Best I can suggest is to look carefully at the motherboard and see if you find any evidence of damage--there really isn't any one component that's notably more likely to fry than another during initial setup like that. Your network port not working would tend to make me suspect that, as well, but it just as easily could be something else that you haven't used yet (maybe a USB port). Small amounts of smoke generally means a small component, rather than something larger like a VRM. Large, core-function stuff would also render it unbootable, so whatever burned out is a peripheral of some sort. Either way, taking the motherboard back is probably the right call. Next time I'd recommend plugging everything in with the motherboard resting on a piece of cardboard / the box it came in, so you can test it that way: it's not inconceivable that the standoffs on your case were slightly misaligned or something and caused a short. At least with the cardboard you remove that possibility and can start from a "clean" state.
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Oct 25, 2020 23:26
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Zarin posted:I've seen people mention standoffs before, but I'm trying to envision what that would look like . . . if all the screws go in correctly, how could it be an alignment issue? What I've seen in the past is motherboards that try to squeeze traces in super close to the mounting holes, and then standoffs that are physically wider than normal. Or people who somehow find screws with heads so wide that they contact front-side traces (rare, but some people I guess just grab screws from a bin they've got lying around instead of the ones that came with the board?). Or you accidentally drop a screw behind the board and don't notice it or forget, and it makes contact. I mean, it's not common by any means. But it's possible. On good quality cases from reputable brands you have to kinda be trying for it these days, though--they've gotten a lot better.
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Oct 25, 2020 23:30
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Kingnothing posted:It’s almost definitely the mother board, but if it was me I would go crazy looking for the short so I know I’m returning the correct part. But my brain is dumb. If it was part of the CPU / RAM / PSU, it just wouldn't turn on at all anymore. So it's basically guaranteed to be on the motherboard and somewhere unimportant / unused. But, yeah, I'd also want to know if I just got an unlucky board, or if I'd caused it somehow. I can't really think how a miswired network cable could short anything, but who knows.
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Oct 25, 2020 23:40
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Asema posted:the motherboard has no markings like that at all on it :/ which is why I didn't think it was the mobo but I can double check They're not all nearly as obvious as the pic above. I had a mobo burn out a trace to a RAM bank (the "auto OC" function was apparently a bit too aggressive), and it took me an hour to find it because it basically just vaporized about 3mm of trace and that was it, with minimal discoloration around it. Basically you might never find it. Or at any rate you might spend far too much time trying, since it's not like you can fix it even if you do find it (and a lot of stores won't take stuff back that's been obviously fried, so that may be a blessing in disguise).
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Oct 25, 2020 23:43
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Asema posted:How much does a SATA power cable supply? Like the one that goes from the PSU and has the long '------ connector? Yeah, not quite sure what you mean. If there is a fan hub/controller that's part of your case, plugging it into the SATA power connector shouldn't be an issue--I mean, that's what it's there for. Plugging power in for it and then no fans makes it useless, but not something that should short out. It's possible to overload a single motherboard fan header if you use Y-cables and string a bunch of them together, but you'd need to be running all of them off the same header like that, and it sounds like you had them each plugged into different headers, which is fine. You'd also know if that happened because none of your fans would work afterwards, since the header would be dead. e; a SATA power cable is good for 54W or 4.5A per rail (3.3v, 5v, 12v are all on there).
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Oct 26, 2020 00:30
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It's an open question whether a 5600X vs 5900X will be the more reasonable long-term buy, so if he's happy to spend the money there, I might just let that go. The AIO is silly for a 5900X. If he wants it for the aesthetics or whatever, fine, cool, it's not a bad cooler, but otherwise he could get very good cooling out of either a smaller AIO (240/280mm versions) or one of the perennial be Quiet! or Noctura coolers for $100. Motherboard is silly if he doesn't plan on something phenomenally dumb like SLI. $300 and it doesn't even have TB3. The ASUS TUF Gaming B550-PLUS Wifi is $180 and has all the big features: Wifi 6, BT5, TB3, 2.5Gb NIC, etc., and the difference in PCIe configuration won't ever matter if he's only gonna run it with 1x GPU and 1x NVMe drive. 32GB RAM is fine and reasonable these days if he's a heavy user, though knocking down to 3600@CL16 or even 3600@CL18 / 3200@CL14 only gives like a 1-3% difference in most applications. 4000@CL16 -> 3200@CL16 is like a 5% drop in games and would cut about $200 off the RAM price. The ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB is effectively as fast as the 970 Evo in all the ways that actually matter, and is $50-75 cheaper. Case is fine if he likes the styling. There are cheaper options available, but cases are 80% ~*~aesthetic choices~*~ as long as you're not picking something that's objectively terrible, which that case isn't. PSU is enormously over-spec, could easily be cut down to the 750W version for $200 with no negative impacts. Unless he actually plans on using the Corsair Link portion, moving to the HX instead of the HXi drops another ~$50 off it, down to $160ish. All said that'd be about $600 off the bill. DrDork fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 23:23
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Gabriel S. posted:What's the latest "middle-of-the-road" AMD Processor? Doing a bit a Googling, it looks like I'm seeing the AMD Ryzen 7 3700X as that choice but I'm super confused - do I want the B550 or X570 Chipsets? 3700X is good if you do more productivity things than gaming. If you do more gaming than productivity things, you'd probably be better off with the 5600X. Also consider that the 3700X may very well get a price cut in the next two weeks once Zen3 actually hits shelves, or at minimum should have solid discounts on eBay from used chips as people upgrade. The B550 and X570 are basically the same except: -B550 is usually cheaper -B550 often has slightly newer feature sets (WiFi 6 vs 5, for example) -X570 will better support PCIe devices beyond the normal 1x GPU + 1x NVMe configuration, though unless you're doing high-end stuff it's not likely to matter Basically, if you need to ask the question, you probably should go with B550.
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Oct 27, 2020 02:29
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Pegnose Pete posted:When we say 1x nvme on B550 we mean at full speed right? Like could you have 1x pcie 4 and 1x pcie 3 without going up to X570? With B550 you get: 1x dedicated PCIe 4.0 16x slot for a GPU 1x dedicated PCIe 4.0 4x slot for a NVMe Some number of other PCIe slots (board dependent) that all effectively share a single PCIe 3.0 x4 link. So a board could have, in addition to the two dedicated PCIe 4.0 slots, say another two 4x slots and a second NVMe slot. Those three slots (since NVMe is basically just a PCIe 4x slot with a different physical connector) would all share the bandwidth of the single PCIe 3.0 4x bridge link, which is 4GBps. So if you just had another PCIe 3.0 NVMe drive, like a 970 or XPS 8200 and nothing else in those three slots, it'd run at "full speed" since that's all it's specced out for, anyhow. If you had two NVMe drives in those three slots, they'd be able to run at "full speed" independently, but if you tried to do stuff with them at the same time they'd fight each other for bandwidth. Same if you shoved a second GPU into the system as well as a second NVMe: they'd be fighting for bandwidth under load. Since there's no real point in SLI anymore, though, you're unlikely to ever be doing that. If you wanted a second PCIe 4.0 NVMe drive, like the new 7GBps Samsung 980 Pro's, you'd be limited to just 4GBps thanks to the downlink bandwidth limit. You'd also be sharing bandwidth with your NIC, any SATA devices, and some number of USB ports (you get 4x 10Gbps USB running on dedicated lines). So if you've got a whole lot of data transfer going on all at once, you can get limited. HOWEVER, to do that you'd need to be trying to use multiple high-speed NVMe drives at once, realistically. Note that the above is independent of the "dedicated" GPU and NVMe slot, which would continue to operate at full speed regardless of what else you're doing. A X570 switches the downlink from PCIe 3.0 x4 to PCIe 4.0 x4, effectively doubling the bandwidth. So now you could run two additional PCIe 3 NVMe drives, or a single newer (980 Pro, for example) PCIe 4 NVMe before you ran into bandwidth issues. tl;dr, B550 you can do 1x GPU + 1x PICe 4.0 NVMe + 1x PCIe 3.0 NVMe and never know the difference. Anything more than that and you might notice some blocking. DrDork fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 27, 2020 |
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Oct 27, 2020 03:46
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Gabriel S. posted:Thanks! My main goal is a SFF Gaming PC with that NZXT H1 Case that isn't extremely loud nor turn my room into a furnace. Yeah, if you're going SFF B550 makes a lot of sense since you're highly unlikely to need the additional downlink bandwidth: you're basically just limiting yourself to a PCIe 3.0 NVMe secondary drive instead of a PCIe 4.0 one, and that's assuming the board even has a second NVMe slot in the first place. For a board with only one NVMe slot, there's literally no reason to get a X570, because you can't even utilize the one advantage it has over B550. I'm building a SFF and ended up "having" to go X570 just because there literally are no mITX B550 boards with TB3 support 
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Oct 27, 2020 03:52
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sean10mm posted:I feel like the Tuf B550 is kind of mediocre for the price. The B550 Aorus Pro and B550M Mortar both have better specs for the same price, and if having better VRM/PCB don't matter to you (arguably they shouldn't for most people) then just get the B550M Bazooka or Pro-VDH WiFi or something. As far as I can tell, for the $30 extra the Aorus Pro costs, you move from 8+2 power to 12+2 power, Intel vs Realtek NIC (some people say the Realtek is the better choice), and BT 5.1. Of those, only including BT seems worth anything, and you could get a BT USB adapter for $10. But if you like the aesthetics of it, yeah, it's a decent choice, too. The Mortar doesn't seem to have any features of note on the TUF, and seems harder to find on Amazon for some reason. I'm sure it's fine, though.
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Oct 27, 2020 15:28
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Jimbot posted:On the subject of the Zen 3 stuff, this will be the first CPU launch where I'm actually in the market for getting one. Which US retailer tends to be the best place to pick one up within the launch window? Top five places are gonna be Amazon, NewEgg, Microcenter, BestBuy, and B&HPhoto, probably in that order. Microcenter as #1 if you're near a store and can be there in person.
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Oct 27, 2020 22:54
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Yup. It'll be interesting to see what AMD has to say tomorrow, but for 2080Ti performance to now be obtainable in a $500 package (vs ~$1400) makes this an amazing time to be in the market for a new GPU. Assuming you can actually buy one, at least.
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Oct 27, 2020 23:40
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Gabriel S. posted:How does this compare to what's in the PS5 and Xbox Series X? Around 15% faster at 1080p, more like 20-25% faster at 4k. Considerably faster for RTX. Enough to make a noticeable difference, but not enough to absolutely blow consoles out of the water.
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Oct 28, 2020 01:22
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Suburban Dad posted:Any better suggestions for cases in place of that one? Still trying to see what he wants eg. black box or side window with lights and dumb poo poo vomiting out the side (no I'm not biased Enabling XMP is trivial. 3200@CL14, 3600@CL16, 3800@CL18 all perform very similarly, so if he's price sensitive just pick whichever is cheapest out of that bunch. 3800@CL14 gets you like a 4-5% max performance benefit at 1080p (less at higher resolutions) for easily double the price. Not worth it. If he can stretch his budget a little to ~$1100, picking up a 3070 or whatever AMD's ~$500 card will be will give him substantially better performance. Like 50% more.
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Oct 28, 2020 01:52
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Spikes32 posted:Thank you. So to be clear, all the case fans connect to this, then this connects to the 2nd cpu 4 pin slot on the motherboard. The cpu fan still connects directly to the first 4 pin cpu slot on the motherboard. Yes, that seems right. The CPU fan should go to the CPU fan header (closest one to the CPU, often to the upper right of the socket). The fan controller should plug into any other 4-pin fan header on the motherboard. You also need to plug in a SATA power connector to the bit coming off the left side of the controller.
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Oct 28, 2020 02:58
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Yeah, you should be able to use the key. It might not like it initially because it's already been registered once (to the laptop), so it may force you to call Microsoft and do a little automated phone thing with them, but it should work. Fan setup is mostly to taste, honestly. I've had good luck setting my case fans to more or less static speeds at something just under where I can actually hear them, and then letting the CPU fan vary based on temps. Other people have everything vary based on CPU temp. Up to you.
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Oct 28, 2020 04:00
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I'd bump up to a better SSD like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ for only a few bucks more. Otherwise your list looks pretty reasonable. 3070 will be overkill for 1080p, reasonable for 1440p, and not quite enough for 4k if you want to run at super high settings or do RTX in games coming out next year. It'll be fine if you're ok with turning settings down, though.
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Oct 28, 2020 05:06
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All other things being equal (clocks, cores, etc), Zen 3 is about 20% faster in games than Zen 2. Up to you whether that's worth the price. You'll likely be able to grab a used 3700X for ~$150 here soon, though, and I'd expect the Zen 3 CPUs to take maybe a $50 haircut sometime in late Q1 next year. So if you can wait, you could save some money, but then you're also going 4-5 months with hampered performance. Up to you.
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Oct 29, 2020 01:30
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'll probably just get a 3700x -ish chip to keep costs down so long as it's not bottlenecking me to badly. Tons of 'em on eBay. The return policy on eBay is also heavily buyer-favored, so if you get a busted chip it's trivial to get your money back.
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Oct 29, 2020 01:46
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Parallelwoody posted:I found enough in 8x2, but it sounds like just waiting for zen 3 and checking the updated bios support is the way to go unless I'm missing something. The performance difference between 4000@CL16 for $270/32GB and 3800@CL16 for $150/32GB is gonna be like...2% at most, and less than that more often than not. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:09
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aas Bandit posted:What does that mean in somewhat-hardware-ignorant-speak? It means if you're using the first M.2 slot (for a NVMe SSD), then one of the SATA ports gets disabled and you can't use it. If you put a NVMe card into the second M.2 slot (they'll be labeled), then two of the SATA ports get disabled and you can't use them. You would only be using SATA ports for, at this point, something like a DVD drive, or if you have any older HDDs that you wanted to bring over. Considering that the motherboard has 6 SATA ports, losing one or two is unlikely to matter since you'd need, at most, one of those 6 for a DVD drive if you don't have any old drives you wanted to use.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:10
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Spikes32 posted:I might have managed to get one off zotac. I have an order number anyway and they charged my account. Fingers crossed Zotac, oddly, doesn't seem to be loving around. If you've got an order number, you're good. They usually ship within 2-3 days, too. FlamingLiberal posted:I guess Amazon didn’t get any? They've also gotten basically no 3080 or 3090s since launch, too. They almost seem to be intentionally sitting this whole thing out and letting BestBuy do most of the selling. Seems weird, since Amazon is probably the only retailer on the planet with a backend strong enough to not melt under the load, but maybe BB is paying NVidia for the privilege. 
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Oct 29, 2020 14:37
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The Grumbles posted:I've got a 550w bronze power supply. Should I really upgrade to a 650w or can I get away with my 550w? You will be fine. At the very worst, you'll plug everything in, boot up a particularly demanding game, and the entire computer will randomly shut off. If it does that, then it's time to upgrade to a new PSU. But it shouldn't--your max load should be like 400W.
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Oct 29, 2020 15:13
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aas Bandit posted:How is it better? Honest question--not being snarky. That the Evo 212 can go up to 2000 RPM isn't particularly relevant (you don't want it up that high for noise reasons), and it certainly does not cool better. It's hard to find a single review that covers both coolers (since they're not aimed at the same market), but AnadTech uses the same testing methodology for both their U12A review, which has U14S data in it, and their older Evo 212 review, so you can do a direct comparison with their data. Their testing showing that at a 150W load (which is average for the 10700k you're planning on before you start overclocking) the 212 is about 11C behind the U14S when running at the slower 7v fan speed, which gives a noise comparison of 34 dBA for the 212 vs 32 dBA for the U14S. The Evo 212 is a competent cooling solution if you just want something cheap that'll work well enough and be reasonably quiet. The U14S is considerably better at doing its job cooling, though, meaning that you can run it slower (quieter) to hit a given temp, or you can get better temps at the same noise profile. It's double the price for a reason. DrDork fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Oct 29, 2020 |
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Oct 29, 2020 17:43
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Since the thread has been recommending AMD, most here should be able to take advantage of the ~exclusive~ options when paired with an AMD CPU...Thanksgiving could be fun! Yeah, the concerning part about that was AMD themselves noting that the performance gain "depends heavily on particular game optimizations," which to me translates into "we'll have a couple of games where it works really well, and then the vast majority of games it'll provide very minimal benefit." IIRC the average boost was like 2-4%, with only one game getting >10%, and that's with AMD being able to show best-case uses. Who knows, it might catch on between having so many people interested in Zen 3 plus the consoles being Zen 2 (same memory die as Zen 3) + RDNA 2 (ish).
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Oct 29, 2020 18:31
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You could certainly beat the price by $200-$300. The real question is could you find a 3080 without a lot of effort. It's not a bad deal, though. It's not a screamin' one, but shops aren't gonna be giving you a great deal on a 3080-based system right now, anyhow. If you can stand to wait a few weeks / play the Discord notification game to grab a 3080, you could build yourself something better. You'd be paying for the convenience of not having to do so, mostly.
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Oct 29, 2020 18:45
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School Nickname posted:I give up. I have been whittled down by various people in various places into saving money. The final thing which broke me was various nerds screaming on jabber that my current 650W build, listed here, has a PSU that won't be able to take switching out my 1060 for a 3070. And its estimated wattage is here. Now I do intend to OC the 2600; EVGA in its power calculator just adds 100W to that, so add 100W I guess? The reasons these guys gave were: Those Jabber dudes are smoking crack. EVGA's 3070 Ultra BIOS power limit is 275W, with an "optional" override that takes you to 305W, which brings you to a total system power of about 550W, which is perfectly fine, because it's not terribly often that both your CPU and GPU are maxing out their power budget at the same time in the first place. And you still have 100W of headroom for transient spikes, which really shouldn't be more than another 10-20W normally. "Staying at 66-80%" is just for efficiency's sake. A Gold PSU has to be 90% efficient at 50% load and 87% efficient at 100% load. So you'd be paying an extra 3% on your power bill by running it "too high." Otherwise the PSU is unlikely to care much, unless it's a crap-tier one that can't actually sustain its rated wattage (which you shouldn't ever buy in the first place). PSUs don't "degrade" over time in terms of their ability to produce power. Parts do wear out after a while, though, in particular the fan and caps, but that's about it, and running it 10% harder because you got a 650 instead of a 750 isn't going to have a meaningful difference on lifespan. A lot of the "rules of thumb" about PSUs were developed when people were using PSUs that shipped as freebies packed in with $50 cases. As long as you buy from a quality brand (EVGA, Seasonic, Corsair, etc.), you can use pretty much right up to the listed number on the box in terms of wattage, and about the only ill effect you'll get is the fan might be a little louder than if you'd bought an over-specced unit. At the very worst the computer will simply shut off, and you'd now know that you pushed it too far. Can't really hurt anything. DrDork fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Oct 29, 2020 |
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Oct 29, 2020 21:50
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prom candy posted:I almost pulled the trigger on a build a couple months ago but I'm glad I didn't with all the new cards that are coming out. I just have one question (which I've googled but I don't trust google answers the way I trust goon answers): 1440p @ 144hz, 3070 or 3080? I'm happy with high/very high settings, I don't need ultra, and I'm even fine with a stable 60-80fps on demanding AAA single player games. But when some new online shooter comes out a few years down the road I don't want to have to set it to very low to get high frames. The 3070 reviews are live, so you can read up on those if you want detailed information. But it looks like that, on average, a 3070 at 1440p can hit around 120FPS on High/Ultra, with excursions down to 100FPS. The 3080 is more like 150-160FPS with excursions down to 110-115FPS. So a 3070 won't quite max out your monitor, and will likely start to get dragged down further over the next few years as next-gen console games start hitting. The 3080 is slight overkill now, but will keep higher framerates better over the next few years. Given the cost difference, though, you can make a valid argument for a 3070 now, and in two years when it's starting to drag and the 4000/7000 series or whatever the next gen of cards will be called drop, you can flip the 3070 for ~$350, take the $200 you already saved, and buy another card that'll be faster than the 3080, if you're feeling your 3070 is not keeping up.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:17
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I don't think NVidia has ever said anything about when cards are going to be dropped? Some retailers have, but that's on them. The 3070 launch actually seemed to have pretty decent inventory, so hopefully that means they'll be able to keep it up over the next few weeks and most people will be able to get one with a little effort without waiting months.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:31
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Wowporn posted:SLI didn't magically get better recently did it? Buying a second 1070 is not actually smart right? SLI is 110% dead and even NVidia is telling people to stop doing it. You literally can't SLI any Ampere card other than the 3090, and NVidia won't be releasing any more SLI profiles. So it'll be 100% on game developers to implement it, which...isn't going to happen.
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Oct 30, 2020 01:07
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:That's good to know, thanks! Sound like a 650 watt PSU is the way to go. Are there any PSU brands I should specifically look for/avoid? EVGA, Corsair, Seasonic are the top 3. No reason to not get one of them.
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Oct 30, 2020 03:53
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LogisticEarth posted:I read the OP and it seems like AMD is the CPU king at the moment. I have a flexible budget, so looking at PC partpicker, would I be an idiot spending too much money: Zen 3 will be out next week--I'd wait for those reviews to hit before you buy anything, because Zen 3 is adding something silly like 20% IPC vs the current Zen 2 that the list there has. The 3080 is complete overkill if you're not a "gamer" and your workflow doesn't leverage GPU acceleration. I'd instead either suggest the 3070 (hard to find right now), waiting for the 6800 reviews to come out (mid-Nov), or simply picking up something like a 1660 Super for much cheaper, seeing how that performs, and if you don't like it you can still upgrade to one of the above cards, assuming you buy from Amazon and therefore can return stuff until the end of January. Otherwise it seems pretty reasonable. I'd maybe swap the SSD for a better one, though. The ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro is still quite good (even with it's silent downgrade), as is the XPG GAMMIX S50 Lite, and the SK Hynix Gold P31. They're a bit more expensive, but should have meaningfully better performance if you're tossing around large video and photo files all day. DrDork fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 16:17
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change my name posted:Newbie question, but I bumped up my DDR4 3200 mhz RAM in bios from 2133 to 2933 (why not use what I paid for), is this going to affect temps at all? Not by more than maybe like 1C. Set it as high as it'll let you go and still be stable--there's no real reason not to.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:06
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It'll certainly be able to do 1440p on high, but the question is gonna be FPS--open question there, but a 2060S is about 75% faster than a 970. 3070's look like they'll be reasonably obtainable in the next few weeks, if the early stocks are any indication of production and not just an instance of them storing up a month's worth of production and now we won't see much until December, anyhow. Step-up isn't a bad deal, just know that it'll likely be at least 1-2 months before you're offered a new card, the card offered will ONLY be the single SKU they're listing (3070 FTW3 Ultra, IIRC), and you have to submit your request almost immediately when you buy your 2060. Yeah, Turing pricing is all over the place right now. Some shops are keeping original MSRP, some are actually scalping on the grounds that Ampere is hard to get, some are cutting prices because Turing gets crushed by Ampere. Best I can say is if you're on NewEgg, always turn off third-party sellers, since they're usually the worst about hosed up prices.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:46
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Windows keys are generally tied to the CPU/Mobo, so you may have to reactivate. I think you can do this by calling microsoft but you can also just get a new key from SA mart for $15. Or if you don't care about your background, just never activate? The activation call takes like 5 minutes. No reason to spend money you don't need to. Butterfly Valley posted:There are ways but a fresh install is strongly advised Yeah. It'll probably work fine--Windows HAL is actually pretty damned good these days, but you never really know what oddities you might run into when you're doing something as big as a motherboard swap. Unless there's a very compelling reason not to, I'd go with a fresh install.
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Oct 30, 2020 19:07
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Verviticus posted:hmm i got a pro a short time ago. how do i tell what controller i have if the ssd is in the machine already? If you take the heatsink off / didn't install it, you can look at the controller chip directly. The older (faster) one is the 2262EN, while the newer one is the 2262G. If you don't want to do that, you can use something like CrystalDiskInfo to look up the ROM version: SVN00235 for the new ones, SVN047 for the old ones. In actual normal human use, there won't be much of a difference in performance, if at all. But I'll probably be recommending the EX950 from now on, given that it (AFAIK) hasn't suffered the same switch-out fate, and is generally the same price anyhow.
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Oct 31, 2020 15:12
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Snowy posted:Is that something I need to worry about at all? No, because they're wrong. The PSU has the normal 4+4 pin EPS connector that the motherboard uses, per EVGA's website. Not sure where they're getting their info.
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Oct 31, 2020 23:25
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