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Looking for real advice re: a pair of water-cooled Titan Z cards I just inherited. I'm in the US and my power bill is included with my rent. Current build: Core i5 4xxx, Asus mobo, 8GB DDR3, AMD 7870, Samsung SATA SSD. Plays everything I try to run pretty well, I don't dick with the sliders or try to eke out any additional visual bling, really, it's roughly as good as a PS4 but with more adjustibility. I got this whole rack with a 4x120mm radiator (crap round tubes but large), two Titan Z cards with EKWB water blocks on them, a Corsair AX1200i power supply. I want to use them even though they were free/they're old. They're attached to an EKWB water block manifold that spaces the cards for quad-card SLI, but all the machines I have have spacing with two slots in between the full-length PCIe slots and so won't work. The air cooling that came with them is long gone. Options: I can upgrade my computer but I don't really feel a need to, also this option mostly requires me to pick a motherboard based on how far apart the PCIe slots are and ew, gross. Also, lots have a dead space adding a larger gap between the slots so I'm having to kind of slum it to find that spacing. I can directly plumb new fittings onto the water blocks and use one or both of them that way in just any of my two towers that will accommodate the rest of the rigamarole, though this runs the risk of leaking whatever coolant is on them on the card(s) while re-plumbing them. I know how to deal with this but it will be annoying. Luckily there a MicroCenter here with EKWB fittings in stock, this method could be up and running tonight but it honestly won't. This method is kind of desirable as I have a smaller radiator, some leftover Tygon tubing from an old WC build, but the aforementioned hassles sort of balance out. In looking at benchmarks I see that a single Titan Z with SLI functioning gets similar scores to a 970, and two with quad SLI gets similar scores as a 1070 non-Ti. With all that "knowledge" I can tell that a single TitanZ would be a video upgrade for me assuming SLI was working for whatever title I was playing. Should I just say forget it and try to sell them to someone more enterprising? Should I replumb and stress test them individually to save me the headache of finding out they don't work after buying a new machine to accommodate them as-is? What would you do?
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Nov 13, 2019 22:06
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Yeah, I was kind of leaning that way; since I can tell about the performance I was able to tell my buddy he couldn't use one of them (he has an Asus ROG G20 tower with a single slot to work with so theoretically possible but power will never let him) and also wouldn't get any additional performance over his 1070. Also, a 2080 fits fine. I also would like to not try selling them with the water blocks on them, untested, after they've been sitting for years.
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Nov 14, 2019 00:10
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Previous Post in this thread PCPartsPicker link, only needing a few pieces: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9vwzf9 Have Case, PSU(s), keyboard, SSDs, HDs, optical. Country: US Use case: Some gaming et al, home desktop general stuff MicroCenter nearby?: Yes Budget: Could go as high as $700, would rather keep it kind of low. Monitor info: Have new Samsung 4K TV, have 1440P Acer monitor but I believe it tops out at 120 Hz Looking for sanity check: Game mostly on console, also testing out my two Titan Z cards I got (see previous posts in this iteration of thread) and figured I may as well, PCs are cheap as gently caress. Any glaring problems with this build? If the Titan Z cards won't play nice, singly or doubled up, I can fall back to my AMD 7870 (predates Rx nomenclature, roughly like an R7 270 or R7 280, IIRC) and plan on upgrading later. I don't really need my PC to spit out mad 4K though I'm not opposed, it's just such a steep price ramp for high settings and 4K. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($144.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($185.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon) Total: $408.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 15:35 EST-0500 Ninja edit: $334.98 in town picked up plus 8.25% tax. Real edit: of course it's a 16GB kit, not two 8GB DIMMs Oddhair fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 21:38
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TheFluff posted:The 9400F doesn't make any sense when you can get a Ryzen 5 2600 for $20 less, or a 3600 for $195. If you for some reason don't want an AMD CPU, don't get a $185 overclocking motherboard for a $140 locked CPU. Get the cheapest Z370 or Z390 board you can find in that case. Also $80 is too much for 16GB of DDR4-2666, you can get 16GB of DDR4-3200 for $60 these days. Thanks for the feedback, I was hoping to stick with Intel in order to transfer my old SATA SSD before imaging across to an NVMe drive (and I realize that might not be at all necesary/logical). The RAM would be $52 for the 16GB kit at Microcenter but I am not going to argue with the rest, however... Stickman posted:Were you the one with the waterblock Zs? Even if they're waterblocked, if you're not using them for compute I suspect that whatever Turing/Navi card you could buy after reselling them would be an enormous gaming upgrade. Yeah, that's me. I'm mostly determining whether they work or not, but the guy I got them from got them from work and they'd prefer I not sell them, seemingly sort of a sunk cost fallacy writ, um, ~ l o n g ~ as they've simply been sitting for I want to say 2.5 years? I honestly don't feel like trying to sell them together or individually, not my cup of tea, and the EK water cooling stuff is old enough that the manufacturer has only a couple of pieces that will interface with the water blocks. This reminds me, my company got, for free, a whole rack with a clock signal synchronization engine, active 3D glasses and all the stuff to do dual-rear projector 4K in 3D (think geological visualization a la oil industry). The two Barco projectors from 2012 could do 4K and 3D but on the flip side they were rear projection only since they were too drat loud for anything else, needed 10,000 BTU/h of cooling, 17A of 230V power, and were the size of riding lawn mowers. The Titan Zs are my "Barco Projector Boondoggle™" only easier to use, test, and most importantly get rid of if not viable. I did like the idea of itemizing and simply donating them to a non-profit computer education org, if that's acceptable. I can easily convince the previous owner's that these aren't too useful at present outside of a specialized workload. Oddhair fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Nov 27, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 23:29
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