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Hi all! It's been about 10 years since I've built a computer from scratch. So I'll be reusing the case, which works fine and has a fan on the top and over the motherboard, and holding on to my SSD for the time being, but everything else is going to be new. I'd really just like something that I can use for 1080p games on my monitor, to tether an Oculus Quest to to play VR games, and to do some light video/audio editing for work. I do own a 4K TV and it'd be nice to be able to upgrade to a 4K friendly graphics card down the road when I have the money, so hopefully the motherboard/CPU can support that. How does this look? Do I need to beef up the CPU? My budget is probably £650 maximum. And I'm seeing all kinds of conflicting info on whether it's worth even buying PC components during the pandemic, or whether to hold out till later in the year (assuming things don't get worse). What do people in this thread think? Apologies if the above has been asked a ton of times. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor (£147.54 @ CCL Computers) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£34.96 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: *Gigabyte B365M DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£64.83 @ CCL Computers) Memory: *Patriot Viper 4 Blackout 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (£60.81 @ Ebuyer) Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB THICC III Ultra Video Card (£275.00 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£64.99 @ Currys PC World) Total: £648.13
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Jun 30, 2020 10:14
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Thank you! I've never really considered an AMD CPU before, I've always used Intel stuff in the past. Is there anything I need to be aware of with switching over? Is that CPU likely to be a bottleneck - is it worth looking at an Intel 10 series?
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Jun 30, 2020 11:50
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Rollie Fingers posted:Ryzen 3600 only costs £150 these days. It's 6c/12t. Currently hovering at around £159 - so that's a £40 jump - I've tried reading some comparisons of the two and it's all very confusing! The main thing I don't really get is people saying that the 3300x might actually be better for games due to higher speeds in certain areas, but other people saying that more cores is good for the next generation of games that'll be tied to new multi-core consoles. Also, the 3300x is out of stock everywhere and I'm not sure how willing I am to play the whole stock-chasing game. Put a pre-order in at Amazon, but no idea how long until they have stock. Will I actually lose anything by going for the 3600? It's an extra £40, which is keeping me on the fence. I would have preferred to get the 3300x and maybe upgrade down the road, but I've got no idea what to do now - it could be a month or so before there's any sign of stock?
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Jul 1, 2020 11:57
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I went for the 3600 in the end only because it's not clear when the 3300x will be in stock and I don't want my life to be consumed with the pointless anxiety of refreshing stock trackers for the next 3+ weeks, and it'll be nice to know that my CPU will probably fare better with next-gen games. Also eBay had a code for a tenner off, which softened the blow a bit of the extra spend. edit: and one other factor which may help others in this thread - which I learned the hard way with a CPU purchase that was a couple of cores behind the video game generation at the time, is that if I ever want to upgrade, the 3600 should hold its value for longer. The Grumbles fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jul 1, 2020 |
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Jul 1, 2020 18:10
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Thanks to all who gave their part picking advice a week or two ago. Everything's put together and working really nicely. Had some bad RAM that got RMA'd (as is custom with a new PC build...) but all good apart from that. I reused my old Samsung SATA 250gb SSD, but it filled up a lot quicker than I thought. I decided to get an NVMe 500GB SSD because it seemed cool as heck, and I've just thrown it in there. Is it worth me moving my windows install over to the NVMe? Or am I right in thinking that although it's faster in theory (and cool as heck. It's so tiny!) it won't make any difference in real terms because you'd only notice it with huge files?
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Jul 11, 2020 15:16
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Ok! I managed to nab a 3070 FE to replace my 5600xt, which was good up until the point where I got a 1440p monitor, at which point it felt like maybe it wouldn't withstand the next gen of games. Assuming the likely outcome of me getting a second email saying it's been delayed because of stock etc doesn't happen and I actually recieve my new card, here's my question - I've got a 550w bronze power supply. Should I really upgrade to a 650w or can I get away with my 550w? Running a 3600 with stock fan, a sata SSD and an nvme SSD if that matters at all. Is it the kind of thing where you can try it and see, or is there scope for serious damage? And if I do need to upgrade, what's the deal with reselling PSUs on ebay, is that cool or frowned upon? It's well within warranty (bought it this summer). This is exciting! A little pricey but I've never had a new gen of graphics card before, or bought a console at launch. I was tempted by the AMD offerings, but I feel like the software side (good RTX, DLSS) is gonna be a lot more important this gen. We'll see I guess!
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Oct 29, 2020 14:49
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Hi all, I built a new PC over the summer, but I'm using an older Antec case that's a little beat up. It's also a full sized ATX case, and I'm on a MicroATX board. I also got a 3070FE which looks really nice, so I'm looking at a new case - smaller, matx sized - with a nice glass side panel. I'm torn between the Fractal Define Mini C - which has a sleek looking metal front - and the Fractal Meshify Mini C. Anyone with experience of either? Do I lose a whole lot by not going for the one with the mesh front? I've read that noise-wise they're both the same, but think the metal front would look tons better than the mesh. Would be glad to hear people's thoughts.
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Nov 5, 2020 16:42
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Thanks people for their case recommendations. I'd like to get something that fits the mATX a bit more snugly. There's just so much empty room in my old tower case. But if anyone has any non-Fractal recommendations for nice looking cases (maybe with a window) that better fit the mATX and are more space efficient, I'd love to hear them. On another note, I love building PCs but I've only built one from scratch maybe 2 or 3 times (for obvious reasons). I opened up my most recent build today and realised I'd installed the PSU the wrong way up, so it's been wafting warm air into the graphics card this whole time. I'd also spent an hour troubleshooting why it wouldn't boot when I first switched it on, only to realise I hadn't attached a power cable into the CPU at all. Edit: Oh, and the first time I ever opened up a PC as a kid, my dad walked in, saw a big ball of dust on the motherboard, and went and cleaned it off with his finger before I could stop him. That thing never switched on again. Have any of you got any good horror stories from building PCs? I wanna hear some real gnarly disasters The Grumbles fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 20:03
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Found a good deal on the Meshify C Mini so I might go for that. I like the idea of having a glass panel, but they only have the dark tint in stock. If I don't have any RGB whatsoever, is this pointless? I'm not fussed about being able to see everything super clearly. I just want the case to look nice.
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Nov 6, 2020 13:17
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That CPU is probably overkill if you're not playing games or doing tasks more CPU intensive than regular office stuff. I'd suggest getting a 3600 or even a 3300. They're both still great for games, but if you decide you wanna start playing games in a few years and those CPUs end up struggling (which even then they might not!) you should be able to swap in a 5600x with that same motherboard. Plus, you won't have to go the bundle route and will have a bit more flexibility with what to buy this time around. Edit: having built a Ryzen PC recently for a combination of work from home stuff and games, I'd also recommend swapping out the stock cooler for something better. Even the Cooler Master 212, which is super cheap, will be MUCH quieter than the fan that comes bundled with the Ryzen processors. It made working from home much more comfortable.
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Nov 23, 2020 23:13
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a Loving Dog posted:you mean the Wraith or whatever it is? I was planning on using that for awhile until the noctua i want comes back in stock, but i guess it really doesnt matter if i dont have a GPU unless i want to take this 1050ti out of my current desktop...not sure yet Unless something's changed between the 3xxx and the 5xxx, the wraith cooler is like, laughably loud. It was so loud that I ended up changing the fan curve on the bios and probably throttled my CPU accidentally. When the fan properly kicks into gear, it sounds like an OG PS4.
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Nov 24, 2020 02:17
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Ok, I've sworn to myself my entire life I'd never go down this route - but I've got a really nice dark tempered glass case, and it's pushing me to go against everything I hold dear and consider some internal lighting. I don't want to go crazy on the tackiness - but a nice light strip to illuminate the case behind the dark glass might just be the ticket. Anyone got any recommendations? I'm not convinced this motherboard has any RBG headers, so I'm guessing it'll have to be molex?
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Nov 24, 2020 10:43
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AOTKPTW posted:Gearing up for Cyberpunks release and I'm thinking about upgrading my build on the CPU side. I'm currently running: You should be fine! Windows seems pretty good at knowing when you've swapped hardware. When you swap motherboards, Windows will see it as a whole new machine, so you might unexpectedly find that your copy of windows is no longer activate it. You can re-activate by going into the account settings, where there's an option to let Windows know you're using new hardware so it can transfer the license over.
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Nov 24, 2020 11:33
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I've heard some of the B450 boards can only be flashed once you're up and running - so if you end up getting one of the new Ryzens, just make sure you do all your updates before you chuck the old processor, if you get one of those boards. There'll probably be some marginal stuff you only get with the B550s - it's possible AMD's set bonus (+5 or so to FPS) you get when you have both a 5xxx processor and one of their new graphics cards will only work with the newer boards. But someone else in the thread will probably have a firmer understanding.
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Nov 24, 2020 15:31
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Gunder posted:When cleaning thermal paste from the surface of a CPU, what’s the best way? Given that this is an AMD chip, with pins on the back, is it safer to clean it in the socket? Leave it in the socket. I bought an aftermarket cooler for the first time ever a couple weeks ago, and didn't realise it was better to leave it in the socket, and just made a huge mess by taking it out. You'll get thermal paste on your hands, it'll get near the pins, and might even get in the socket. I ended up having to spend ages painstakingly cleaning between the CPU pins.
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Nov 24, 2020 17:24
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Barry Foster posted:I'm going to get a new case (Gamemax F15M) soon, and will be transplanting my current setup into it - briefly: Having just gone through this journey myself - I got a v similar aftermarket cooler - the Coolermaster 212 - and it's really quiet, and the CPU has yet to go past 73c when doing high intensity stuff, idling at about 30c. So it does sound like something is up with your cooler. Is it screwed in tight enough? When I installed my aftermarket cooler, I couldn't get the PC to POST for like 2 weeks - after replacing the motherboard, the PSU, and going through everything I could think of, a friendly local computer nerd took a look at it and told me that I'd both used too much thermal paste, and the cooler wasn't screwed in nearly tight enough and wasn't mounted quite properly. You really wanna screw it in tight, even though it feels kind of nerve wracking to do so. There's also some weird quirk with the design of the 3600 where when you apply your thermal paste, doing it in a small line down the middle is most efficient for some reason? edit: On the watercooling stuff, there's some evidence out there that it's not actually always as efficient as air cooling, but it's important to remember that water cooling is rad as gently caress and AOI coolers can look incredibly cool.
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Nov 24, 2020 17:37
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sean10mm posted:The amount of paste you use makes almost zero difference actually. My pc literally wouldn't post at all because I'd used way too much thermal paste when I'd tried to affix the cooler. The dude who fixed my PC builds them for a living and all he'd done was clean up the CPU and reapply a sensible amount. Apparently it was enough to create a barrier. Unless the cooler just wasn't screwed in tight enough? I'm not saying I'm not an idiot, but also that dude brought my PC back to life and I trust him on this.
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Nov 24, 2020 18:26
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chippocrates posted:I built a PC about 4 years ago and went relatively cheap on the GPU end so I'm looking to upgrade in the next few months (not immediately given scarcity). I used a Corsair PSU when I built the PC. PC part picker indicates that a decent GPU will push me close to the wattage of my current PSU, so I'll upgrade that at the same time. If I buy another Corsair PSU will I be able to just unplug the cables at the PSU end and plug them into a new PSU, or will I have to cut all my zip-ties? I'd really play it super safe with anything involving the PSU. Cut the zip ties! It's part of the whole ritual.
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Nov 30, 2020 00:12
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Sab669 posted:On one hand, I get it - brand loyalty can be silly. But also this laptop I bought in 2014 poo poo the bed in 2016 after two arduous years of never physically moving off my TV stand and only being used for a few hours per week of casual use connected to my TV for watching netflix / local media Have you ever had a job where there was a change in management that resulted in a weaker showing compared to the competition? Or literally one of hundreds of any other factors that meant the company didn't do as well as whatever it was doing? Or maybe even the place you were working for decided to spend some time on research or internal systems, and the output the public saw wasn't as strong for a while? Because I've definitely witnessed all of the above! It's all a normal part of the working world and these things fluctuate. I don't think its the same team making the Ryzen that was making whatever part you hated in the year 2000. Edit: the above is also probably why Intel is weaker right now. They're probably in a big R&D phase and aren't ready to release some great big showstopper. Yes, there can be cultures endemic to certain companies that sometimes warrants a boycott or whatever. I don't think a dodgy bit of PC hardware 20 (or even 6) years ago really belongs in that bracket. Also, laptops can be finicky and die because there's a lot of hardware packed into a 'lil slab. It probably wasn't the CPU, but some aspect of the laptop's construction.
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Dec 4, 2020 16:02
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change my name posted:I was team Intel forever until I actually built this PC (my first tower, previously I was all laptops) and realized that AMD was, and has been, a way better value for a while. Well, when you could actually purchase things at MSRP... To be honest Intel might still be better for laptops for all I know? There's so much weird business stuff related to laptop manufacturing that who knows. But for desktops, I mean - AMD even comes with a cooler!
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Dec 4, 2020 16:09
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Sab669 posted:
AMD doesn't make motherboards. edit: I don't know what you mean, genuinely! If your motherboard failed, it has nothing to do with AMD. Motherboards and CPUs don't work the same way as GPU processors and 3rd party cards. I think AMD only designs the socket for a motherboard, but the rest is up to the manufacturer. This is different to GPUs, where Nvidia/AMD create a reference card. The Grumbles fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 4, 2020 |
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Dec 4, 2020 16:15
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spunkshui posted:Installing the cooler might require you to have access behind the cpu to install the backplate. Even then, most cases have a lurid little peephole at the back that lets you get your grubby fingers at the backplate without taking the mobo out.
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Dec 4, 2020 16:50
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It was crazy how much putting an SSD in changed things when it came to basic computing, and its kind of wild to think that only now is this something that games consoles are incorporating. I hope this means games going forward are finally going to make better use of SSDs - I'm sure the things we're hearing about load times being non-existant on PS5 should be technically possible on a PC, right? I think the only "I didn't expect how much this would change things" upgrade for me has been going to a 144hz monitor. Even moving the mouse feels amazing.
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Dec 10, 2020 17:58
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Farecoal posted:I just checked and my RAM is running in single channel mode. My motherboard (B450M Pro) has 4 RAM slots, A1, A2, B1, and B2. I put my two DIMMs into slots A1 and A2; should it be A1 and B1 instead? Yes! The motherboard reads A as one channel, and B as another channel.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:50
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Wowporn posted:I was confused why PSUs got so loving expensive since the last time I built a pc and realized it was cause everyone buys modular these days and they're like straight up twice the price of a comparable non modular unit. I am good with splitting the difference and going semi modular I guess But half the fun is finding somewhere crafty to shove all the cables you're not using in your non-modular PSU so the case looks all nice and clean!
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Dec 24, 2020 15:05
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Are there any good mATX boards with nice aesthetics, io sheilds, etc, that don't also have a load of branding making me look like I belong to some kind of game-focused paramilitary group? I'm running a Zen 2 CPU.
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Jan 1, 2021 15:43
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NikkolasKing posted:I'm tech illiterate, how important is 4/6/8 GB for graphics cards? It will depend what you're trying to run - and most importantly - at what resolution. Lets assume you're wanting to play new or upcoming games. The big thing GPU's use their memory for is holding on to textures. Higher resolutions prefer higher quality textures, broadly speaking. So I had a really excellent GPU which had 6GB memory (a Radeon 5600XT). That ran everything at full speed with my 1080p monitor. But as soon as I moved up to 1440p, 6GB wasn't quite enough. I've got a 3070 now which can keep up much better. I think if you're running at 1080p and don't see yourself ever getting a higher resolution monitor, 6GB will probably be fine for a while. It'd take quite a lot for a game to demand that much memory at that resolution. If you feel like you're likely to ever play games in 1440p or 4K, it's probably worth springing for something with 8GB+.
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Jan 2, 2021 15:29
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I'd recommend springing to a 6GB card if your budget allows it. Especially as it sounds like you upgrade your PC very rarely/have little interest in upgrading regularly. It'll hang in there for longer.
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Jan 2, 2021 15:46
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PirateBob posted:Hm yeah I'm still going to be a little sceptic about the longevity of components that you can literally fry an egg on I built my first new PC in 2020 in about 10 years - and my first ever AMD CPU, and the high temps gave me the heebie jeebies too. But honestly, AMD CPUs are designed to run hot. I don't know if better cooling will mean it jumps up to the boost clock more, (someone else in this thread probably does), but yes, it'll run just fine hot. To be honest, the only reason I swapped out for an aftermarket cooler is that the stock Wraith Stealth cooler was far and away the loudest component in my PC. Even with the fan curves messed around with in the bios, it was incredibly loud. Putting in an aftermarket cooler has made it much much quieter - and there's capacity to reduce the ambient noise more if I decide to swap in the fan that came with the cooler for a noctua. I also feel like those closed flat stock coolers with the fans on top are going to gather more dust over time (especially in a household with pets/smokers), and are way harder to blast with compressed air, so one of those big chunky radiators with the heatpipes that jut out horizontally from the motherboard just seems like it has better airflow, won't catch as much dust, and it seems like it'll be way easier to clean if it does somehow get dusty. The Grumbles fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 12:49
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Hutzpah posted:I hope this is the right place to go for new build tech support. I haven't built a computer far at least 5 years and I just finished the below rig, but with a 1060 strix from forum friend Pilfered Polebearer. As far as I can tell everything is hooked up correctly; when I turn the power on the graphics card lights up, the case lights up, and both the CPU and case fans start spinning. However, there is no way to get anything to display on my monitor. I tried the gpu HDMIs as well as the case HDMIs and the display is totally blank "no input detected." Is there any efficient way to troubleshoot what might be the issue? Is the CPU fan on tight enough? When I installed my new CPU cooler, I couldn't get anything to display. After scratching my head for weeks, I got someone to take a look at it and it turned out my cooler was too loose. You want to wind that thing down really tight, or it won't boot. Like, it should feel like you're at risk of breaking something. But you're not!
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Jan 13, 2021 12:43
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:The 3070 is going to struggle in general at 4K. The 3080 struggles to roll 60FPS in some games at 4k with settings turned up (and why bother playing at 4k if you’re turning settings down)? Just to chime in and say I've got a 3070 and it works really well in 4k at 60 in the majority of cases. Games with RT might need those settings bumped down a little (or DLSS bumped up a bit), but it's great otherwise. Yes, you might not run everything at Ultra, but the increase in resolution is going to make everything look really really good regardless. You might need to bump your texture memory down from "ultra" to "very high" in some cases (I had to do this with Mortal Kombat 11). But otherwise, your games will look georgeous at that resolution. "Very High" presets are still, well, very high. And honestly, for some of those graphics presets you're unlikely to notice the difference unless you're doing Digital Foundry style side by side stuff.
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Jan 15, 2021 13:22
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Probably an impossible to answer question, but humour a goon. It's really hard to tell. I'd say if you can get the components you want at the proper retail price, probably go for it. I'm also in the UK, and I built my PC in the summer, when everyone was saying it was a bad time to build a PC (because of COVID). I'm really glad that I did then, because even things like nice case fans seem to be out of stock now, and however jacked up the prices were then, things are crazier now. I think until we're well shot of the virus, all bets are off. There's every chance Brexit might make things pricier now we're post-trade agreement, too. If you would like to build a PC, can afford to do so at current prices, and have access to stock, then do it. If you feel like you'll get value out of having access to a nice PC during lockdown, then that value will probably outweigh the outside chance of things being like £20 cheaper a year from now.
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Jan 27, 2021 00:44
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WattsvilleBlues posted:That's what I'm thinking. Just wondering how to get this past the wife. That cooler looks good to me! I've got one of those on a 3600 and the cores seem to be boosted most of the time. It'll be way quieter than the stock cooler, though the fan isn't as silent as a Noctua.
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Jan 27, 2021 18:41
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It'll work fine, although replacing a cooler is the faffiest part of doing any upgrades by far because you've got to deal with thermal paste. You'll probably want to clean the thermal paste off your CPU from the stock cooler (don't be a huge idiot like me and take the CPU out to do this. Just leave it in the socket), wait for it to dry, reapply paste, put the new cooler in. You might find it easier to take the motherboard out entirely to do this. If you're anything like me, your hands and clothes will be covered in thermal paste by the end.
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Feb 8, 2021 11:19
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As dumb and faux-macho pro gamer a lot of PC component naming conventions are, I think I find branding on RAM the most hilarious. G.Skill Ripjaws, Corsair Vengeance and Cruial Ballistix are the main high-end brands, and they all sound like they were named by a dude who works at a paintball range and owns a lighter with the US Marines emblem on it. It loads data from the hard drive so it can be read by a CPU. Its RAM. I wouldn't mind if it weren't for the fact that the stupid branding is usually plastered all over the components themselves. I wish there were more hi-end components like Noctua, that were just a bit more - tasteful? - while still being good for games.
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Feb 8, 2021 23:57
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njsykora posted:At least most of it isn't visible branding once it's actually slotted in. I got Vengeance RAM for my upgrade and it's just plain black on top. Sadly not a patch visually on the blue and white HyperX sticks I've had for the last 5 years though. Noctua stuff I just can't ever get over how Brown they are. Mine is completely visible! I can just see the word BALLISTIX in a vaguely army style font through the glass side panel of my case. Please, manufacturers. I'm in my 30's. Just give me some plain components in tasteful colours with scandinavian sounding brand names that don't actually mean anything.
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Feb 9, 2021 00:08
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punk rebel ecks posted:I literally have no idea where to ask this since there is no general PC discussion thread, but I was wondering what web browser everyone thinks is best? I've never heard of this but I'm a sucker for using a cool new browser that then has compatibility issues with all the web stuff I use for work. Haven't used Chrome in a long time, but how does this compare to firefox?
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Feb 16, 2021 15:59
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punk rebel ecks posted:It uses a modified Chromium engine. Alright, I installed it yesterday and I'm going to use it for a week. I gotta say, I really like it so far - especially for working from home. I can have all my comms tools like gchat and whatsapp in a little side panel, which is cool. Seems to chew through a lot more RAM than Firefox though.
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Feb 17, 2021 12:18
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In my experience, the kinds of games where your high esports refresh rate might make a difference (and be noticeable) will be optimized for and consistently hit144hz anyway - games like Valorant, etc. Graphically lush single player games may well hover at around 100fps, which will still feel nicer than 60, but you probably wont feel like you need to hit max framerate. So a 3070 is honestly absolutely fine. Most of the time, I only know that I'm not hitting max framerate because there's a FPS counter in-game telling me so. To be honest, the main way that 144fps feels really nice is genuinely just in your day to day browsing. Your mouse/windows/scrolling/etc glides around the screen in a way that both makes an appreciable difference, and makes it very hard to go back to a 60hz monitor.
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Feb 21, 2021 13:58
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Grifter posted:I have recently become a full time work from home person. I have a work laptop and a personal desktop. Right now I only have one monitor. I want to upgrade to two, but preferably I would like it for both. Is it possible to have some sort of a setup where I can have flip a switch and have the monitors flip over from the laptop to the desktop and vice versa? I'm not even sure what the names of the equipment are to make that happen. I guess if both monitors have enough inputs for both of your devices, then you'll be able to switch the source on each monitor when you want to swap over?
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Feb 23, 2021 15:19
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