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Captain McAllister posted:Actually, I just got off the phone with him again. He explained that those part numbers were made specifically for this issue, between the Court dates, and they're not available for private sale. I ran into that problem once with kenworth. The part was broken, they had the part but couldn't sell it because of a recall, and waiting for them to replace it under recall cost 10 times in downtime what the part cost. It was an exhaust flex pipe, we brought the truck in, and they replaced the wrong loving flex pipe, not the recalled one with the coffee can strapped around it. manufacturers suck.
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Nov 29, 2019 22:44
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So if you can't get the bolt kits, is there an alternative like order the correct size and grade bolts from (industrial/fastener) supplier? I know that'll be a whore, but Probably better than tracking down junkyard bolts or some other kind of bullshit.
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Nov 29, 2019 23:15
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Thing with toyota is you can literally build a car from the spare parts department. Sure, it might cost you $200K to build a Yaris that way, but you can do it. I can still get a NIB frame for my 100 series, or body shell parts if im stupid enough to pay the asking price. If you work your way through a website like ToyoDIY based off your chassis VIN, you will find every bolt, every mount, every part you need to do the work, it just wont be condensed by someone else into some handy dandy set under a single part number. For example, This is the part numbers for EVERY body mounting component on a 2005 double cab V6 taco. 
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Nov 30, 2019 01:09
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BelMetric has great selection of flanged metric bolts in whatever sizes you need.
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Nov 30, 2019 02:18
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Ferremit posted:Thing with toyota is you can literally build a car from the spare parts department. Sure, it might cost you $200K to build a Yaris that way, but you can do it. I can still get a NIB frame for my 100 series, or body shell parts if im stupid enough to pay the asking price. A few years ago it was possible to buy a BMW E87 unibody, it had a BMW number and everything. Was something like 10-15k €. I wonder what the use case for such a thing is. Race car builders? Back to the Taco; OP, that rep is a moron and is not interested in helping you. Do something like Ferremit suggests, or go raid a junkyard or something.
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Nov 30, 2019 11:23
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bolind posted:I wonder what the use case for such a thing is. Race car builders? Accident repair where the insurance company is absolutely committed to not totalling the vehicle even though the vehicle needs to be totally replaced.
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Nov 30, 2019 13:22
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Body shop got the frame yesterday. They're going to coordinate with the sandblaster/powdercoater, who is pretty much across the street. Looking through all the individual parts listings for the specialized 'kits' from Toyota, they contain more than just hardware - wire and brake line tabs, exhaust bolts/gaskets, axle clips and random crap that is fine on my truck and gets replaced when you do other things anyway. As this is a used frame, I don't know how much of this stuff is already there. I'm going to save some time, money, and maybe headache by just figuring out the literal nuts and bolts and try to avoid project creep. The body shop are backed up with a bunch of insurance work that came in, so I'm not sure when they'll be able to get to my truck. The 02/cat codes came back, so maybe I'll look at replacing those while the motor is out.
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Dec 3, 2019 20:13
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It might be a good idea to just get the full kit with all that little piddly poo poo anyway. Change it, its new and you don't have to worry about it. OR, keep it for when the stuff you're already got rusts out. Nobody's garage is complete without an assortment of random poo poo that you "holy gently caress that'll totally work to fix (issue)", when your friend's car has something hanging off it after dinner at 6pm on sunday when all the part stores are closed. Everyone's dad's garage has those coffee cans full of poo poo that are the wrong head size, but the thread is the exact right size and pitch for the (thing) that fell off your car, truck, bike etc.
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Dec 4, 2019 00:04
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Minor update: I'm in my home province (BC) until early January. The frame swap will likely take place when I'm back. On my drive back I picked up a used set of All-Pro upper control arms for a good price. I put in a URD short shifter kit that I got on sale for Black Friday, and replaced the nylon bushing on the tip ($12 from Toyota!). The more unbelievable price was for a plastic disc with a foam rubber seal that was shown in a pic of a Dorman kit with the new bushing. I figured I should replace that while I was in there, too, and found that it was 'only' from Toyota! When I was installing the short shifter I found that the gasket part isn't an easily user-serviceable part (I would have had to grind the head off the pin that holds the shifter lever in the shifter tower, then figure out a way to replace that). Sooo I said gently caress it and returned the gasket. I put in new black inlay Depo headlights (old ones were hazed to hell and high beams were garbage). I splurged on LED markers and signal bulbs to hopefully minimize the time until replacement. Just today I took the truck to the shop my family have been using for years. They pulled the codes and tested the downstream 02 sensors, which they think are shot. However, the sensors are seized in and they said that if I wanted to replace then, depending how the replacement goes, they might have to weld the old hole and put on a new bung. Someone has already done this with the upstream sensors. When I asked about just replacing the cats instead of loving around with a rusty old manifold/cat setup, they said this would probably be faster in terms of labour, but more expensive in parts. They added that they've had the most luck with Toyota cats not tripping the sensor again, likely due to the amounts of platinum etc. they contain. I think what I'm going to do is look into header/cat replacements, and have them done when the motor is out during the frame replacement. Then any broken studs or other bullshit will be more easily dealt edith. Magnaflow make a proper header+cat combo in their 'heavy metal' line, which purport to have more catalyst agents than stock, or maybe the Eastern Catalytic brand from Rock Auto, which make the same claim. Anyone have any expertise with either? Oh, yeah, I had been looking into canopies to keep my stuff in the bed and keep the snow out, but I found a really good deal on a Bakflip G2 tri-fold hard tonneau cover and quite like it so far. There are an utter shitload of Tacomas out here, but in Canada you could (can?) only get a manual with a 5' box. Automatics got the 6' box, which is the first time I've had a transmission choice impact the availability of something like a canopy (95+% of Tacomas are autos here).
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Dec 20, 2019 02:08
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Exactly how much time DID this truck spend in the ocean?
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Dec 20, 2019 14:25
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Powershift posted:Exactly how much time DID this truck spend in the ocean? Well, it's a 2005, so, at least 10?
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Dec 22, 2019 00:58
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Anti-archive bump. I had some stuff come up in Nov/Dec which carried into January. I called the shop today to tell them I hadn't fallen off the face of the earth, and he told me the powdercoating place had brought the frame back just the other day because they want/need more stuff taken off to do their thing. I'm going to call the shop again next Friday to book a date for the swap.
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Jan 30, 2020 02:48
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Swap is booked - March 1st. I've also ordered headers/cats from aFe because it may fix the check engine light issue, it may not, but even if a stud or two are broken during the job, that'll be waaaaay easier to deal with when the motor is out of the truck. The upstream 02 sensors are related to the VIN. On Rockauto, one sensor from Denso is listed as being for vehicles with VIN#s TO 5TE*U##N#6Z144911, and the other with VIN #s FROM 5TE*U##N#6Z144911. My truck's VIN Is 5TE*U##N#5Z######. Algebra was a long time ago, but to me, 5Zs are less than 6Z. The only difference I can tell from looking at the specs is that one has 1" longer leads than the other. I figure if the upstream 02 sensors don't have any impact, I can always do the downstream cats and sensors after the swap is done, because they're straightforward enough to get to/replace. And my bank account is starting to hurt.
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Feb 17, 2020 06:12
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Looks like you're not the first person to run into this somewhere online. The OE part numbers are given in that thread, but it's still clear as mud. You could contact Denso with your VIN to find out for sure (their online parts catalog has the same issue as Rockauto). Or you may have some luck going here and putting in your VIN, then googling the part number to find how it crosses to Denso (who I assume makes the original part). e: Looking up photos of the two different Denso sensors, they have a different tip on them. If you can get one out, that's the easiest way to tell. I'd just leave them if it's not throwing codes for the upstreams tho. One MIGHT have a different color plug (black vs gray), but that might just be on the aftermarket Denso-made ones. This is FROM 5TE*U##N#6Z144911 (Denso 2349026)  This is UP TO VIN 5TE*U##N# 6Z144911 (Denso 2349051)  Interestingly, Delphi (and every other manufacturer on Rockauto) list just one part number with no VIN cutoff for the upstream, so you may be right in that the only significant difference is the wire length. Is it throwing codes for the upstream sensors? If not, I'd personally just reuse them. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Feb 17, 2020 |
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Feb 17, 2020 16:40
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Well, just dropped the truck off at the bodyshop. They've had a few weeks of 6-9 non driveable insurance jobs, but don't have anything big booked for next week, so here's hoping this will finally get done.
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Mar 13, 2020 00:15
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Hows it doing? (or are they stuck waiting for parts!)
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Mar 21, 2020 10:30
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I picked the truck up again a few days ago. They were having issues with a parts supplier and the bodyshop owner wasn't sure if they were going to shutdown due to COVID-19 or not, so I picked it up while he reassessed. The powdercoating place called me this morning to say they'd sandblasted and powdercoated the 'new' frame, so I called the bodyshop to see if that meant they'd get to my truck next week. He's down to 1 guy today (out of the 6-8 that I've seen there previously), and wants me to call on Tues to see where his staffing levels are at and if he can get it in next week.
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Mar 26, 2020 22:44
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Did you ever get any compensation from original liar?
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Mar 27, 2020 01:42
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^^ no, civil suit would need costs involved (ie receipts). Work hasn't been done yet, so I don't have those. Took the truck into the shop (again) yesterday. Truck decided to liven things up by turning the battery light on. Torque app showed a voltage of 10.8V. A few km from town, the radio shut off and the brake, ABS, and airbag light came on. Pulling into town, the truck lost power - it would idle, but pressing the gas caused it to bog. Made the final turn towards the bodyshop, and coasted downhill into a dirt lot across the street. Truck idled (now at like 7.8V) and still bogged. Turned off the headlights, fan, and pulled out my phone charger and it ran juuuust enough to get across the street and into the shops yard. Last I discussed with the body guy, he was going to take the truck apart, transfer all the big stuff to the 'new' powdercoated frame, and send that to the mechanic for all the mechanical work I've been getting parts for. I promptly called the mechanic shop and asked that they add an alternator to the list. This really is turning into the Tacoma of goddamn Theseus. 
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Apr 14, 2020 20:31
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Sue that rear end in a top hat oh my god. Gonna have a sweet truck when you finally get done with this at least.
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Apr 22, 2020 21:47
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Called the bodyshop because it's now been a month since I dropped the truck off. Owner confirmed they got it in this week and got started on getting the box off. Then the guy working on it got sick. Hopefully he's back on Monday, they'll take the cab off and swap stuff to the 'new' frame, then send the rolling chassis to the mechanic for the mechanical stuff (clutch, water pump, etc), then the bodyshop will put it all back together. Should be done by the end of next week/ beginning of the next one.
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May 14, 2020 00:41
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Following because I've had my eye on that series Tacoma. Hopefully I can find a rust-free one here in Texas.
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May 15, 2020 15:46
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Isn't everything from texas rust free? And also free from paint that hasn't been sun faded?
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May 15, 2020 22:31
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This 1963 VW I spotted at work this morning is fairly rust free. 
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May 16, 2020 16:22
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PhotoKirk posted:Following because I've had my eye on that series Tacoma. Hopefully I can find a rust-free one here in Texas. It's really only the frames that rust out badly. This was the first generation of Tacoma where they used the composite bed. My theory is that because that section of frame is plated/double walled, poo poo gets trapped in there. It's also where the frame starts to taper/narrow behind the engine and front wheels. This means it's very close to the first catalytic converter (the driver's side more than the passenger side), so I think the rusting issue is made worse by the constant heating and cooling. I got some reflective/stick-on heat shielding material I'll be putting in those areas to minimize that effect. This is also part of the reason I had the frame powder coated, not painted. The states have different rules about the recall/issue I think. Whether the frame was replaced or not would be my first question to any seller, and having actual proof would be the second. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 17:52
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So, I dropped the truck off April 14th. After my last update, I've called at least once maybe twice to ask when it might be done. They've had a hard time getting employees to come in due to COVID, and so my truck was basically sitting partially disassembled for lack of staff. The mechanic shop just called me because they have my rolling frame - and had found that all the A/C pulleys and the compressor was shot. $1700 for all new from Toyota, or $1200 for new Toyota pulleys and a reman pump. I went with option 2. I'm hoping there aren't any more ugly surprises.
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Jun 15, 2020 16:17
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Did you try Rock auto? poo poo's mega cheap on there, even when you take exchange rate (you're in canuckistan right?) and shipping in to account
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Jun 15, 2020 19:50
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wesleywillis posted:Did you try Rock auto? I did, yeah. That's where I got pretty much everything listed in my initial posts. Trick is I'm in BFN and the trucks at the mechanics shop now, so I don't want to tie up their time while I wait for (more) parts they won't make money on. I did look at the A/C stuff, but there aren't any pulleys listed and the guy at the shop said they seemed to be 'Toyota only'.
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Jun 16, 2020 18:49
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I visited the truck last week. It's pretty much back together - work is being done by a guy who is one of the mechanic instructors at the local college. They're waiting on a new master cylinder to come in (mechanical shop wouldn't have known, as they only had the rolling frame), and one of the bolts that hold the bed on/down. It'll need an alignment, but that's part of the inspection, apparently, so that will be a two-birds-one-stone kinda deal. Of course, all the poo poo I've wanted/needed a truck for has been piling up so as soon as I have it back it'll be put to work.
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Jul 18, 2020 06:18
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Well, she's back! Picked it up Friday afternoon. After washing it, I added this decal I've been saving for this:  However, I've also found a few small issues so far. Most noticeable was that the plastic shifter surround now has a chunk out of it, which I immediately raised with the bodyshop. They also didn't put the skid plate back on which isn't a huge deal, but I'm the kind of person that takes a vehicle to the shop and expects to get it back with as many pieces bolted on as I dropped it off with. Last night, I noticed that one of my license plate lights was orange, and the other was still the $$$ diode dynamics bulb I put in in the fall. I'm basically making a list of things to raise with the shop in regards to getting things replaced, or some money back. The only other thing I've noticed is that some kind of fluid is dripping onto the driver's side manifold. I haven't had the time to fully check it out, but I'm suspecting either coolant or brake fluid, given that it makes puffs of white smoke and has a really acrid smell. There seem to be both coolant and brake lines in the area above the manifold. Other than that, it rides and drives like a new truck and I'm so glad to have it back.
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Aug 2, 2020 23:44
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Captain McAllister posted:Well, she's back! Picked it up Friday afternoon. Congrats! To be honest, the way it was going, I thought you were going to get screwed by this body shop. I would push for them to give you some money back and then take it to an actual mechanic to look at what is wrong. You might have to lay out some cash of your own, but after all the delays and chain jerking, don't let this bodyshop have your truck again!
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Aug 3, 2020 02:32
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Yeah, I'm surprised and happy you got it back at all, let alone in running condition.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:21
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