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JudgeJoeBrown
Mar 23, 2007



I just got in a big chunky boy for my Ar Pistol.



A Cloud Defensive Owl.

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Atticus_1354
Dec 9, 2006

Don't you go near that dog, you understand? Don't go near him, he's just as dangerous dead as alive.


JudgeJoeBrown posted:

I just got in a big chunky boy for my Ar Pistol.



A Cloud Defensive Owl.



They're chunky but it's a drat good light.

Specific
Aug 14, 2003

I am going to jump on your face, and now some serious dancin'...

Android Apocalypse posted:

Those KAC URX rails are pretty drat cool. You mentioned looking for a red dot; got something in mind?

Either a beat up used Aimpoint or some sort of Halosun/Sig/Vortex thing. Probably the Aimpoint, though.

not black enough
Oct 14, 2004




Specific posted:

Either a beat up used Aimpoint or some sort of Halosun/Sig/Vortex thing. Probably the Aimpoint, though.

I've been trying to find a beat up used aimpoint myself but they are going for 400+ on ebay nowadays for some reason.

bulletsponge13
Apr 28, 2010


Aimpoint hold value like no other optic, it seems. There is no earthly reason Comp 2 are still as pricey as they are.

Atticus_1354
Dec 9, 2006

Don't you go near that dog, you understand? Don't go near him, he's just as dangerous dead as alive.


bulletsponge13 posted:

Aimpoint hold value like no other optic, it seems. There is no earthly reason Comp 2 are still as pricey as they are.

It's because they still work so drat good.

Combatace
Feb 29, 2008





Fun Shoe

I seem to have made a slight oopsie while making a mockup of all the parts I have so far. I put a plain old handguard on my barrel, and it managed to lock itself into place in the front handguard cap. Of course, I didn't have my delta ring in my possession yet, so the handguards are just stuck and not budging.

What's the safest way to get these off?

Android Apocalypse
Apr 28, 2009

The future is
AUTOMATED
and you are
OBSOLETE






Illegal Hen

The CompM2 is also sought after by clone builders, so there's that as well.

It's interesting that amongst my rifles it's either EOTech's for clone purposes or Holosuns's for when I don't care about that.

Edit:

Combatace posted:

I seem to have made a slight oopsie while making a mockup of all the parts I have so far. I put a plain old handguard on my barrel, and it managed to lock itself into place in the front handguard cap. Of course, I didn't have my delta ring in my possession yet, so the handguards are just stuck and not budging.

What's the safest way to get these off?

Rubber mallet & pound that stubborn bastard out?

Combatace
Feb 29, 2008





Fun Shoe

Android Apocalypse posted:

The CompM2 is also sought after by clone builders, so there's that as well.

It's interesting that amongst my rifles it's either EOTech's for clone purposes or Holosuns's for when I don't care about that.

Edit:


Rubber mallet & pound that stubborn bastard out?

I used a punch to leverage it out. Feel pretty dumb for not trying that first!

Dead Reckoning
Sep 13, 2011


Android Apocalypse posted:

Those KAC URX rails are pretty drat cool. You mentioned looking for a red dot; got something in mind?

I'd be much more into them if they didn't require that weird installation wrench that costs an arm and a leg.

Android Apocalypse
Apr 28, 2009

The future is
AUTOMATED
and you are
OBSOLETE






Illegal Hen

True, my friend with the KAC rails lucked out in getting the wrench for it.

At least the Geissele wrench adapter can be used for installing regular AR parts too.

Specific
Aug 14, 2003

I am going to jump on your face, and now some serious dancin'...

Dead Reckoning posted:

I'd be much more into them if they didn't require that weird installation wrench that costs an arm and a leg.

Mine came rail, wrench, and nut for 200 bucks. I don’t think I did too bad.

jwang
Mar 31, 2013


BCM blem M4 uppers for $90.

Not nearly as good as pre-pandemic prices, but what is nowadays? Grabbed 2 for myself for a 22LR build and 1 for spare.

Apollodorus
Feb 13, 2010

TEST YOUR MIGHT


I just got my CMMG 22LR bolt, and I now realize there’s an accessory for it that locks in with the star-shaped bolt face of the AR chamber—is that a must-buy too?

jwang
Mar 31, 2013


What is this accessory? As far as I understood, the conversion kit comes with a chamber adapter that slots into the 223 chamber, no other additions necessary.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

Life Before Death
Strength Before Weakness
Journey Before Destination


I think there's a conversion bolt and a dedicated bolt, did you get the right one?

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need


Brownells has the 1:12 20" pencil retro barrel in stock, if anyone is hot for old skool.

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/search/productdetail.aspx?sid=189740&pid=97904

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!


And the BRN-180 for you piston lovers

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...282-246490.aspx

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need


Bargain BFPU* AR!



* - Big Fire Pick Up

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/899949049

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!


Ygolonac posted:

Bargain BFPU* AR!



* - Big Fire Pick Up

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/899949049

14 Bids

What the everloving gently caress, people?

Loucks
May 21, 2007

It's incwedibwe easy to suck my own dick.


That’ll buff right out.

Somebody Awful
Nov 27, 2011

BORN TO DIE
HAIG IS A FUCK
Kill Em All 1917
I am trench man
410,757,864,530 SHELLS FIRED




I'm the buffer tube.

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need


Blindeye posted:

14 Bids

What the everloving gently caress, people?

I suspect it's people hoping the barrel is salvageable, and maybe the BCG,

Or sleazoids who'll clean it up some, shoot a coat of Krylon and resell it (after yanking the sad-dong buffer tube assembly).

Or idiots.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Dudes selling a poo poo ton of guns for a buddy who had his house burn down in a wild fire. Guns were in a “fire rated safe” (whatever that means in this context) but obviously anything not meta was fuuuuucked.

Here’s the saddest model 8: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/899943719

Don’t think I’d trust anything that requires a heat treat but probably some good cheap spare parts if you’re handy.

Edit. Trapdoor Springfield . https://www.gunbroker.com/item/900500245

Hope that guy had his collection insured. Apparently it was 200+ firearms.

Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 03:21 on May 14, 2021

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Three screw single six that’s probably salvageable give that it’s .22LR : https://www.gunbroker.com/item/900619212

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!

Nap Ghost

Cyrano4747 posted:

Dudes selling a poo poo ton of guns for a buddy who had his house burn down in a wild fire. Guns were in a “fire rated safe” (whatever that means in this context) but obviously anything not meta was fuuuuucked.

Here’s the saddest model 8: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/899943719

Don’t think I’d trust anything that requires a heat treat but probably some good cheap spare parts if you’re handy.

Edit. Trapdoor Springfield . https://www.gunbroker.com/item/900500245

Hope that guy had his collection insured. Apparently it was 200+ firearms.



"Fire rated" safes are a marketing gimmick. You know how they do that? By filling the walls with gypsum aka drywall aka calcium sulfate dihydrate. When it gets hot it releases the water (as steam), so it keeps the temperature at slightly above boiling until all the water is driven off. So basically the inside of the safe is a sauna for an hour or two instead of on fire.

Also gypsum is really heavy and sound-dampening so it makes safes look sound and feel really solid while being dirt cheap. Unfortunately they provide almost no structural integrity, so you've usually got two plates of sheet metal sandwiching drywall that can be attacked by a claw hammer.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



DarkHorse posted:



"Fire rated" safes are a marketing gimmick. You know how they do that? By filling the walls with gypsum aka drywall aka calcium sulfate dihydrate. When it gets hot it releases the water (as steam), so it keeps the temperature at slightly above boiling until all the water is driven off. So basically the inside of the safe is a sauna for an hour or two instead of on fire.

Also gypsum is really heavy and sound-dampening so it makes safes look sound and feel really solid while being dirt cheap. Unfortunately they provide almost no structural integrity, so you've usually got two plates of sheet metal sandwiching drywall that can be attacked by a claw hammer.

Yeah, I went safe shopping a bit back and this was basically the tl;dr of my conclusion. I opted for something without the gypsum padding but slightly thicker steel as a result.

Basically at full-blown-housefire temps all your poo poo is hosed. Best case scenario for something like a "fireproof" safe is that you keep your birth certificates and the like cool enough that they just get crispy and singed rather than turned to ash. The point is to keep important papers legible enough to get new copies, not magically have your poo poo survive unscathed.

For anything collectable where condition matters? Just lol.

Get safes to deter your typical door kicker thief, get insurance to deal with the fallout from fire.

dema
Aug 13, 2006



Yeah, both my father in law's fireproof safes were basically gone after their house burned down. Not sure of the brands, he got them at Costco. That was from a forest fire though. Would probably fair better if it was just a partial house fire that the fire department could get to right away.

Regardless, I just opted for a couple of SecureIt Agile 52 cabinets. Easier to get them were I wanted and seems like enough to keep honest people honest.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"




drat, fire rated safes don't do much?

That's not great. We have the cash in the budget to get a safe put in this summer, and our place has a lot of irreplaceable poo poo in it.

(Yes, we have a doubled rider for the contents of the condo.)

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!


Captain Log posted:

drat, fire rated safes don't do much?

That's not great. We have the cash in the budget to get a safe put in this summer, and our place has a lot of irreplaceable poo poo in it.

(Yes, we have a doubled rider for the contents of the condo.)

The fire rating is based on time; most are meant to protect documents/valuables long enough for fore departments to intervene.

Forest fires/full house fires where there is no intervention in the first 30min is gonna be a total loss in all likelihood.

Cage Kicker
Feb 20, 2009

End of the fiscal year, bitch.
MP's got time to order pens for year year, hooah?


SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made





Lipstick Apathy

Captain Log posted:

drat, fire rated safes don't do much?

That's not great. We have the cash in the budget to get a safe put in this summer, and our place has a lot of irreplaceable poo poo in it.

(Yes, we have a doubled rider for the contents of the condo.)

Anything thats truly irreplaceable should be in a safe deposit box somewhere imo ymmv

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

Cage Kicker posted:

Anything thats truly irreplaceable should be in a safe deposit box somewhere imo ymmv

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"




Coming from a family of antique dealers, I wish there was a solution like a safe deposit box. But it's not realistic for 90% of the things in our place.

Knock on wood, but we are a condo retirement community with a bunch of nosy old folks. Most anything nasty will get the emergency services called pretty quick.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



I did a bunch of research on this before getting my safe and yeah, the tl;dr is that in a full blown fire the temps are going to get high enough that anything that could be damaged by heat is just hosed. Your typical lockbox-style "fireproof container" does help, but generally in that case the idea is to keep your passports and birth certificates good enough to get replacements. They'll get crispy and warped, but still be legible. If it's something collectable that condition matters? It's still going to get hot enough to get damaged, plus you're talking all sorts of fucky stuff with moisture, both from water in things going to steam and from the drying effects of the fire itself.

That said, there's a huge difference between "full structure fire" house fires and the ones where the FD gets there in time to keep poo poo mostly in one room or two. Interior walls are great at slowing fires. Drywall is actually a pretty good fire barrier. It'll all go up eventually, of course, but if you can buy even a few minutes for the guys with hoses to show up you're in a way, way better position. A safe that's left standing on a slab after the structure burns down around it is just going to have tears and regret inside it, while one that gets a bit toasty because the room next door went up is probably going to be mostly OK.

To use a contemporary example, think of it like wearing a basic surgical mask around someone with Covid. Better than nothing. Certainly good if the person just kinda walks by you in a hallway. Probably not great if they're yelling in your face from half an inch away like an R. Lee Ermey impersonator and coughing up gobs of lung while doing so.

At the end of the day fire is just something you're not going to protect poo poo from. Have good insurance.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005



Yeah, I did some researching on safes and fire a little awhile ago and it's quite a rabbit hole. For the price, I still might wind up getting a Sturdy safe. They have a whole page explaining their design and showing some safes of theirs that have been through house fires. Marketing, sure, but it's nice to see actual examples.

At the end of the day though the correct answer is definitely have the right insurance.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



The Royal Nonesuch posted:

Yeah, I did some researching on safes and fire a little awhile ago and it's quite a rabbit hole. For the price, I still might wind up getting a Sturdy safe. They have a whole page explaining their design and showing some safes of theirs that have been through house fires. Marketing, sure, but it's nice to see actual examples.

At the end of the day though the correct answer is definitely have the right insurance.

I ended up going with Zanotti, because the modular construction was a huge plus for me. They've got some videos of people who have had collections survive fires, but the common thread tends to be it was a less-hot fire than a full blown gently caress you house fire. I'm thinking of one in particular I saw where the guy was storing his gun collection in a detached garage. Which, you know, not ideal in and of itself but that kind of light structure is way less fuel to melt your poo poo than a house. I was a tad skeptical about the modularity but having put it together myself, yeah, the only way to disassemble it is to be inside it. It's probably less secure in a theoretical sense than a welded safe but gently caress it, at that point we're dealing with professional criminals who presumably have power tools and hours alone with it.

My take away from all of it was that what you want to be looking for is 3/16ths steel all around and something beefier and hardened around the lock. IIRC the Zanotti is 3/8ths around the lock. That and a locking system that works independent of the hinges so someone can't just grind those off.

Fort knox? No. But a massive step up from a sheet metal stack-on and reasonable for the kind of threats that you can reasonably hope to avoid.

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need


IIRC, it was Nixie-and-lightsaber goon Nonentity that was refurbing some fire-damaged guns, with pictures and lots of text, a number of years back. I believe he did note that his patients were not horribly/long-term roasted, and why you don't want to gently caress with ones that are.

Note that even Captain Bad Ideas <-- here isn't putting in bids on that AR, parts needed (and pre-"patinaed") or not.

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!

Nap Ghost

Cyrano4747 posted:

I ended up going with Zanotti, because the modular construction was a huge plus for me. They've got some videos of people who have had collections survive fires, but the common thread tends to be it was a less-hot fire than a full blown gently caress you house fire. I'm thinking of one in particular I saw where the guy was storing his gun collection in a detached garage. Which, you know, not ideal in and of itself but that kind of light structure is way less fuel to melt your poo poo than a house. I was a tad skeptical about the modularity but having put it together myself, yeah, the only way to disassemble it is to be inside it. It's probably less secure in a theoretical sense than a welded safe but gently caress it, at that point we're dealing with professional criminals who presumably have power tools and hours alone with it.

My take away from all of it was that what you want to be looking for is 3/16ths steel all around and something beefier and hardened around the lock. IIRC the Zanotti is 3/8ths around the lock. That and a locking system that works independent of the hinges so someone can't just grind those off.

Fort knox? No. But a massive step up from a sheet metal stack-on and reasonable for the kind of threats that you can reasonably hope to avoid.

I got a Zanotti too because my house is over 100 years old and there was no way anything was fitting through those doors and down those steep, narrow steps unless it was in pieces. Otherwise I would have loved a Sturdy Safe.

There's no perfect place for a safe; the basement is prone to mold and flooding, higher floors are susceptible to falling through floors and hotter fires, garages are close to power tools, etc. etc.

You're best served by having digital copies of all important documents, backing them up offsite, and having your irreplaceable but portable stuff packed up and ready to go in an emergency. Non-portable stuff is what insurance is for. Fires take about 30 seconds to get out of control, so you should be able to get out with everything important to you in 60 seconds or less.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"




I've decided that I'll probably pay extra to have a service properly move and install the safe. Having a sixty-one year old man who is allergic to anything involving tools + a guy with bad legs doesn't make a great recipe for installing a safe.

Glad to hear these different brands that people are using.

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Internet Wizard
Aug 9, 2009

BANDAIDS DON'T FIX BULLET HOLES



Ygolonac posted:

IIRC, it was Nixie-and-lightsaber goon Nonentity that was refurbing some fire-damaged guns, with pictures and lots of text, a number of years back. I believe he did note that his patients were not horribly/long-term roasted, and why you don't want to gently caress with ones that are.

Note that even Captain Bad Ideas <-- here isn't putting in bids on that AR, parts needed (and pre-"patinaed") or not.

Yeah it was him.

Has anybody let him known there’s another safeload of burnt up guns that need his love?

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