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californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


did the inrange dudes test like 6 different brands of pencil barrels before settling on faxon? what was their criteria? i've only seen part of their "stress test" video and the groups didn't look impressive with the ammo they shot.

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californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


if it's just a few brands that doesn't seem that great to me when you're making the "what would stoner do" ar15 or making the optimal ar15 for any endeavor

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


that doesn't sound very compelling/rigorous/interesting at all, to me anyways. if you care at all about accuracy, barrel and ammo selection are huge and it's easy effort once you've figured it out. you can cut your group sizes down by 50% and not spend any more money just by buying stuff that works well together (or reloading). of course if you just care about "practical accuracy" then it's not really a big deal

looking at the reddit list of parts on the guns, i'm personally not a fan a bunch of things like the carbon fiber handguard as i feel there are plenty of better more durable handguards at a lower price point (geissele, slr, etc) and the a2 flash hider. i would've rather gone with something that works much better like a smith vortex.

for something like trigger selection, it would've been interesting to me if they shot groups, different drills under a time, and all that with different triggers to see which one produced the best results. if they selected their trigger like their barrel though, i don't think they did that

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


my point is that they weren't minmaxed well. they didn't do much testing to select their parts. if you want to build the best gamer game for those action 2gun or whatever, it's worth testing a bunch of barrels and seeing which shoots best, not choosing one they probably got for free from a sponsor. i don't know much about the competition and like target presentations and how far they shoot in their competition but more accuracy for any competition is always a good thing. otherwise you wouldn't see stainless barrels hanging off so many 3gunners rifles or cz accushadows in uspsa, and stuff of that nature.

it looks to me like they don't have much experience with ar15's to be honest. i saw a quick blurb about why they chose their carbon fiber handguards with mlok and saw them post the crane mlok/keymod comparison. carbon fiber hg's are nice when you first use them, but the edges around the holes cut into them tend to fray/wear over time. i wouldn't rely on that to hold zero for the laser illuminator after being banged around for a while

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


when you're offhand shooting you'll always have a wobble area, meaning your sights will move quite a bit. so remember to pull the trigger when the sights are moving into the center of the bullseye and not away from it

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


plus rifle cartridges are better at putting down threats than pistol cartridges

i think something in the 600-800 lumen range is more than fine for hd in our house (it's not large), it can shine light as much light as i basically need anywhere. for a hd gun i'm comfortable with a light in this range and don't feel compelled to upgrade to 1000+ lumens. lights in that range can be larger, more expensive, and/or have shorter battery life. technology gets better and lights get more efficient but i'm fine for now. if they have tiny lightweight weaponlights with good controls in the 1k lumen range i'd probably upgrade but for now i don't really think it's worth it to slap the biggest white light on every gun because brighter is always better. ymmv

i had a streamlight hlx on my 11.5 dd (1k lumens) and i actually downgraded it to a m300c 500 lumen to save a few oz. i'm ok with using less powerful white lights on all our guns with ir because i feel like i'd rather use ir if i needed the capability of a more powerful white light

californiasushi fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jan 19, 2020

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


we shot our lightly used psa 6.5 grendel upper for the first extended session a couple weeks ago. it's our first psa

pros: shot pretty smoothly, no problems with different mags, got a 1st round hit at 550y on a 12" steel with a vortex 1-6x razor (groups well enough, 1.25 moa 5-shot groups with hornady black, 2.5 moa with wolf), no malfunctions until:

con: gas block came loose and malfunction city

upon inspection, they didn't use any threadlocker on the gas block screws and the barrel wasn't dimpled. i don't really think a dimpled gas block is absolutely necessary for a range gun but i do think threadlocker is

all in all, i think psa's are tough to beat for the price but like everyone says qc is rough so you should be able to diagnose and fix your own ar15. probably not the best for a new gun owner

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


we have a seekins 6.5 creedmoor ar10 that was cut down to 18" and a larue 7.62 predatar ar10 that has a 16" barrel

recoil on ar10's is highly variable depending on how you tune it. i put an extra heavy buffer in our larue so it's pretty soft shooting for a 308 with a suppressor. it recoils less than some 6.5c's i've shot. i've turned the gas way down on our seekins 6.5c so it's really soft shooting with a suppressor, quite a bit softer imo than the larue. it also weighs like four more pounds with the scope we have on it.

if i were limited to one ar10, i'd go with .308 personally. i've grouped plenty of match ammo out of both ar10's, and also a .308 sako trg and my 6.5c bolt gun. i'm seeing the 308s shoot more types of ammo well whereas for something like the seekins, i tested 7 types of 6.5 creedmoor and only one shot moa. save for 3 types of 6.5 creedmoor ammo, the rest are more than $1 round. there's much more .308 ammo available, and quite a bit of stuff in the ~150gr fmj range which would be nice to shoot out of a 1-8x scope should you choose to go that route. 6.5c's are typically more finicky than 308 ar10's from what i've seen/read. a lot of pressure issues so people get the jp high pressure bolt and people don't typically go down below 18" because of reliability issues. 6.5c is generally more suited for a precision because of its superior exterior ballistics at distance but .308 has more energy in the midrange distances. that, along with .308 having a variety of bullet options and cheaper milspec ammo, make it the better choice for a battle rifle imo. i've never seen anyone load up a 25rd pmag with 6.5c and go to town.

when i got the larue ar10 i was thinking it'd be a battle rifle as it has a shorter barrel but after shooting it out here, the cartridge and gun were too capable at distance to limit it to a 1-8x scope imo. i ended up putting a 3-12x scope on it with offset buis and it's a 1200y gun on dude-sized targets here at 3k+ ft da.

i personally think that the best battle rifle type build would be a 16" 6.5 grendel with a 1-8x scope. i know this goes against what most people consider a battle rifle but i don't really care. with wolf out it's a much more interesting option i think. a 16" 6.5g is much handier and lighter than an ar10, recoil less (but more than a 5.56), still offers quite a bit of performance improvement over 5.56, and magazines are standard size (except you do lose a few rounds). with a 1-8x, it'd be a solid gun from 0 to 1000 yards. however, if i were only to have 3 guns i would probably still go with an ar10 in .308 since it has more energy/better #'s at distance (from the #'s i've gotten and ran compared to the #'s i can expect from a 16" 6.5 grendel) and since 308 is still way more common, which gives you more options for what you're trying to do and is key in times like this when supply is gone. the ammo my 6.5 grendel likes sold out in not too long after i got the email that it came back into stock and wolf can be oos for months at a time. ymmv

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


i don't mind shooting our 16" dd upper with a lw barrel suppressed, it has a h2 buffer and everything else is standard stuff. our 11.5" dd upper i did put a bootleg adjustable bcg in and it's great. i'm a huge fan of the bootlegs as i also put one in our lw 10.3" build. it makes more sense to me to have the adjustment in the carrier, where you can still change the setting pretty easily than in a gas block which tend to seize over time (and most of them you need a small allen key(s) to adjust). plus the factory dd uppers come with pinned gas blocks so you don't need to mess with those either. with dd's you know what you're getting, quality gun with a very nice mil-spec barrel. 5-shot groups in the ~1-1.25 moa range can be expected with ammo that shoots well out of the barrel. plus you get all the good stuff like a looser 5.56 chamber, chrome-lining in the barrel for better barrel life, all that.

i don't think i've ever seen accuracy reviews on the solgw or sionics barrel despite being very popular with the tactical crowd

i wouldn't get a bcm because they're not very accurate. the plus side is that they have desirable configurations with reasonable prices. however for me, if a gun doesn't shoot well it's not a very good gun. the sentiment regarding bcm's not being very accurate is becoming more popular on ar15.com and the the pics of their barrels borescoped are pretty interesting. ymmv

californiasushi fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Mar 31, 2020

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


there's also bcm's filthy 14

i think it's also because most customers who buy those brands don't really care about moa accuracy or better as it's not very important to the kind of shooting they do. the colts, bcm's, dd's, and kac's will all be reliable to high round counts so to me the biggest differentiator is price and accuracy. if i'm paying close to the same money for a fancy bcm or dd, i'd rather have the more accurate gun. with 1-nx scopes you can engage pretty challenging targets so it's nice to have a gun that shoots closer to 1 moa imo

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


we have both the pa advanced micro ($130) and the $90 one. no question, the pa advanced micro is significantly better and easily worth the price difference imo. i even like our pa advanced micro more than our aimpoint t-1 (it has less tint and a better dot shape) and don't think aimpoints are worth it until you step up to the t-2. between the two pa red dots, the only way the $90 one is better is that it has slightly less blue tint. otherwise the pa advanced micro is better in that:

-it has a 50k hour battery life vs 1k. this means if you leave the $90 one on the brightest setting and forget to turn it off after a range trip, it might be dead at your next range trip. not nearly as much of a worry with the advanced micro. you can effectively treat the advanced micro like an aimpoint and leave it on all the time. not so with the $90 one

-maybe because of the lack of blue tint, the $90 pa doesn't get nearly as bright as the advanced micro. both go up to an 11 but i never felt like the $90 one got bright enough during a bright day. a 7 on the advanced micro is like a 9.5 on the $90 one.

-the dials have nicer texturing on the advanced micro

-you can use the adjustment screw caps on the advanced micro to adjust your sights like an aimpoint. with the $90 one, you need to bring a screwdriver

-you can fine tune your zero better with the advanced micro. it has 1/2 moa clicks like an aimpoint, vs 1 moa clicks on the $90 one

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


i wouldn't get a holosun over the pa advanced micro even if they cost the same. the holosun has a coating that darkens the picture under nods. also, holosun's qc has been lacking, quite a few reports of issues. one goon has sent back 2 of the 3 holosuns he's had. i hardly see people having issues with the advanced micro other than that one batch that was too bright

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


if the dot is visible at all with the naked eye, it can bloom under nods, which makes it difficult to both get a good look at what you're shooting at and to get a precise aiming point. if the dot is bright enough and the ambient is dark enough, that can leave a trace in your nods and eventually damage your tube. to offset this you either need ir illumination or high ambient light. some optics, such as the holosun 507, are advertised as being nv capable but i don't really think they are.

passive aiming (aiming through the sight instead of with a laser) has become more popular in the past couple years. as was stated, the main point is not giving away your position/presence by discharging ir (like having a white light nd). some of the other nice things are not needing to mess with a laser zero and its offset at distance (not dealing with converging/offset zeroes also makes slapping a pvs14 3x magnifier behind an optic really easy to do), a finer aiming point, and having no trace at close distances without ir illumination. it's also a big reason for the proliferation of high mounts for dots such as the kac skyscraper or unity fast. i think a regular lower 1/3 is fine if you're just using plugs but if you use muffs the higher mounts work better. i do think shooting precisely during the day would be tougher with those high mounts though since i think having a good cheekweld is very important for shooting an auto well, as well as being more susceptible to parallax issues.

i've seen pictures of the holosun and its ir illumination looked lacking, just like a regular dbal or atpial-c

californiasushi fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 28, 2020

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


A Real Hologram posted:

What is the “best”, accurate and reasonably reliable* 22LR upper out there, in terms of accuracy? I’ve had my eyes on this for a while:

Nordic Components’ 22RB dedicated 22 upper receiver

I want something I can throw a variable optic on, and chip away at 4c a shot all afternoon, with the proper twist to keep things stabilized reasonably far out.


* with rimfire qualification on “reliability”

Probably an upper built by compass lake engineering. We have a nc upper and its not accurate, over an inch 5-shot groups at 50y with rws target, eley target, wolf match extra and ammo in that range.

Alternatively you can get something like a kidd supergrade which is the route I'll go when I decide to get an accurate semi 22

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


Apollodorus posted:

Okay, so, all the parts are here now!



Maybe I’ll have time to build this weekend—will keep you updated if so.

is there a castle nut in the picture?

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


got the modlite plh v2 18650 to the range to check it out. their plh version is supposed to have more spill and their okw version is supposed to have more throw so i wanted to see if i could still engage targets at a couple hundred yards. here's a pic i took through my phone camera. the scope's a leupold mk6 1-6x @ 6x and the moon was pretty bright outside tonight



the 212y target picture wasn't as bright in real life as it was through the camera. i could still identify, engage, and get hits np at 212 yards on the chicken but i couldn't really see the turkey in the berm behind it (which was at 423 yards) with the naked eye at all but it looks pretty clear with the camera. next time i'm out i'll try the 315 yard target array but i'm pretty sure that won't go well. at 100 yards you could really see everything pretty clearly through the scope with the light though. i also brought out our 11.5" sbr that has a sf m300c 500 lumen and at 100y the cardboard pretty much blended into the berm. it wasn't very good at all.

it was about 90 degrees out tonight and the modlite overheated while i left it on trying to take pictures through my phone. it was probably on for a minute or two at a time and between that and taking some shots, the light would get really hot and it would dim. after a few minutes it was ready to go again.

the main downside other than price imo is weight. the setup is on the heavier side compared to the m300c with the same pressure switch setup, which comes in at 4.83oz



also indoors, i like even more spill and all the other wml's we use have more spill so i'm not sure i'd get a plh v2 for dedicated hd gun. it's still fine indoors for sure but it really shines (sorry i had to) outdoors so it's more suited as a general purpose wml i think. ymmv

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


PookBear posted:

yeah but at what range is a laser effective? I think a modern polymer would be rigid enough to hold a zero for a laser or back up front post at the ranges you would be using them.

with the 3x pvs14 magnifier, we've gotten hits at 315y+ at night on steel with an ir laser. even if you're shooting something like a 2/3 ipsc at 100y you can put enough pressure on a non-free-floating handguard to miss

personally i've never felt the need to go super crazy with weight or profile on a handguard. i'm not even strong and i don't think an 11# (loaded) carbine is that bad to shoot offhand. i also think a rigid handguard is important for accuracy/durability

californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


L0cke17 posted:

All my 5.56 guns are zeroed at 50 yards fwiw. It's easy to spot hits without going out to the target constantly, and is good enough for anything I've ever done, even when I had to push out to ~700 yards at a match.

i'm guessing this is a 3gun match, which one is it? what kind of target was it? what kind of penalty did they assign to it to force people to try to shoot it instead of just taking a couple shots its way and moving on?

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californiasushi
Jun 6, 2004


awesome, nice shooting

if i saw a match with 700y targets whose penalty means risking a dnf, i'd definitely bring a different scope than what i would use for a standard 3gun match. i'd use a leupold mk6 1-6x instead of something like a vortex razor 1-6x/steiner 1-4x where the bdc doesn't even go to 700y. you could of course hold over the target in space but that isn't as efficient as just having a bdc reticle that goes farther. i doubt i could save enough time on the close-in targets to make up for what i'd lose on the long targets

some tactical people (like vickers) prefer a 100m zero because it's flatter to ~175y and easier to be more precise with at closer distances but the 50/~200y is easily the most popular zero. i'd go with that unless you have a reason to do something otherwise

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