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Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Thanks for all the positive feedback

Jomo posted:

This is probably redundant since you seem to have considered and analysed every option thoroughly, but have you had a look at the Porsche Taycan's thermal management architecture? It seems to be very well thought-out in that regards to maximizing energy utilization.

Also this project is awesome. Can I ask what's been your best source in terms of starting to learn CANBUS? Something I'd like to do someday myself for future projects.

I've had a look at some details for the Taycan, I didn't see too much regarding cooling. I'll have another look around.

My cooling system still isn't finalised. But due to lack of space in the engine bay, I think I'm stuck with what I have!

Regarding CAN bus, the wikipedia article is a good start: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

For the hardware side, this is a great resource: http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slla270/slla270.pdf

I use Arduino libraries to handle the complex side of the CAN messages. As far as I see, I only need to call a function to send a message with my desired ID and up to 8 bytes of data.

The fun part was deciding the contents of these messages. The transmitter and receivers all need to know what it being sent, so it can deal with it appropriately. And since I can only send numbers from 0 to 255 in a CAN message byte, things like rpm (anything above 255rpm) and temperatures (17.214 degrees, for example), must be converted to a suitable format for transmission.


Tomarse posted:

This is an awesome project! Whats the desired ETA on getting it driving?

Right now, the only things left on my list are:

Install new contactors (I changed contactor type at the last minute, I've already done the mounting and wiring for the old type).
Finish battery waterproofing (this is dull, I've been ignoring it).
Create battery wiring sub-harnesses.
Install water pumps, cabin heater, coolant reservoirs (pipes are all done).
Fix power steering rack.
Finish getting the buck-boost converter working.
Sort out radiator fan PWM controller.
Reassemble charger.
Final assembly.

In theory, that's a weeks work. So, I'm aiming for the end of February.

I'll try to do an update tomorrow!

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Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

OK, here's a little update at least.

Making the front mount for the transmission.

We start with a load of measuring:



(many measuring picture removed to prevent boredom)

Then some CAD. The inverter sits on the "shelf" in front, the shelf provides some gusseting for the mount to help stop lateral movement, and provides a nice place for the inverter to live (I'm limited in inverter placemeny by the relatively short phase cables for the motors).





The engine mounts aren't pictured here yet. They are Land Rover engine mounts (a great design, basically a hockey puck shape, with bonded steel plates and M10 threads on each side).

Finally, transfer all of that onto some 6mm aluminium sheet, cut, and weld:



Here's the only picture I really have of the finished item, it's a repost from earlier, it shows the inverter resting on its shelf (not mounted yet). Also visible is the home-made bracket for the data connector - the Toyota one is unobtanium.



Those stanley vise-grip-adjustable-wrenches are amazing.

net work error
Feb 26, 2011



Incredible thread and engineering, really looking forward to how this comes out.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Wish I had a chance to do this kind of thing, I'm happy I can watch your project happen.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Thanks for the feedback.

As for the incredible engineering, you did see the mattress-box cardboard held to the transmission with 1/4" sockets as pins, right?

I subscribe to the Bad Obsession Motorsports style of CAD. Wait till you see my brackets!

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.



Pillbug

It feels weird to just seal off the end of a bellhousing like that, even though I know it will be fine.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

It feels weird to just seal off the end of a bellhousing like that, even though I know it will be fine.

Haha, yeah, it felt even weirder when i went back and added a plate to lock the input shaft. For any regular car person looking in, I'm sure that would be a great "wtf" moment.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Some clever fuckery ongoing here, fantastic thread! Would you mind saying approx how much the batteries cost you?

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Some clever fuckery ongoing here, fantastic thread! Would you mind saying approx how much the batteries cost you?

I overpaid for the batteries, I got two packs from low-mileage cars (a 2018 with 14k, and a 2015 with 24k) for 4000 from a Mitsubishi breaker. I could have held out for less (I've seen packs go for 1600 each), but I had already waited around 3 months and needed to get the project going.

Batteries were the biggest expense, almost 50% of the total project cost.

I've not updated this thread in ages, I've been busy with work. Sadly that means the RX7 hasn't seen much progress recently either.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.



Pillbug

Pomp and Circumcized posted:

Haha, yeah, it felt even weirder when i went back and added a plate to lock the input shaft. For any regular car person looking in, I'm sure that would be a great "wtf" moment.

If you had more room you could put one of those fake plastic V8s that you use to mock up engine swaps with.

edit: Jesus, they cost more than the actual motor from the junkyard. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/P-Ay...Block,7442.html

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

If you had more room you could put one of those fake plastic V8s that you use to mock up engine swaps with.

edit: Jesus, they cost more than the actual motor from the junkyard. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/P-Ay...Block,7442.html

I still have the cover for the rotary engine out of my RX8...

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

All of my photos of this build are so out of order, and so much poo poo has happened since I started building this thing in October, that I have no idea what I did adn when.

So gently caress it, let's start building this drat car.

We're starting with the batteries. Here they are:



In the Mitsubishi, the 8-cell packs come mounted in pairs, in these nice metal frames. The frames are the same length as the fuel tank. 6 of them fit between the rear tow hooks. Four of them fit in the engine bay. So let's make some battery boxes:

Rear battery:



Front battery:



Let's mount a DC-DC converter onto that front battery



And make some mounts which I can weld onto the chassis to hold that battery:



And also throw the rear battery in there as well:



Not shown is the whole day of making those drat standoffs to bolt down the battery cages.


I also sorted the rear wheel well (badly).

No pics of the part I bought, but it was most of the boot floor. Here's what I cut off.



No way will I be able to stitch weld that with my mig, I cut it oversize and plug welded it instead.





Paint and seam sealer and it's fine for a piece that I'll never see.



What none of thse posts show is the length of time that some of these steps take. I think there was 15 hours in those battery frames.

Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 23, 2020

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Really slow update everyone, apologies!

Due to the current events, my industry has pretty much shut down. I was able to grab a few weeks more work before being laid off. I'm currently unemployed until this is all over, which gives me more time to work on the car (and fortunately I have purchased pretty much everything for it already).

We in the UK are now under lockdown, so I have no excuse not to work on this thing. In face, it's good to have the RX7 here, to give me something to do during the days!

Let's look at the cooling system.

First off, the RX7 oil coolers. No pictures of them, of course, because I prefer to work rather than take pictures. People keep telling me to do a YouTube channel, but I can't see me having the drive to do that. Writing these threads feels like enough work, let alone editing video!

As standard, these coolers have a wax thermostat which bypasses the core until the oil reaches a certain temperature. To eliminate these, we need to plug the bypass passage, and plug the hole for the thermostat. This was achieved with some hydraulic fittings. The bypass passage was drilled almost all the way through to 8mm, and a copper plumbing fitting (8mm pipe solder-on end cap) was driven into the passage. It's a tight fit, not going anywhere. Hydraulic fittings are used to take regular 3/8 low pressure hydraulic hose.



I also added fans to these, maybe I'll find pictures of that to put in a later update.

Next up, the radiator.

Radiator is from an Opel Corsa, condenser is from something (I think ather generation of Corsa?), oil cooler is from a Jaguar S-type, I'll use it as a power steering cooler.



The FD has a funky radiator setup, the radiator sits at an angle, half-way back in the engine bay, on some mounts which stick out of the swaybar mounts. I cut those off. My plan is to use some 25mm angle, with some end plates that can bolt to the factory tow/hold-down hooks behind the front bumper.



Radiator is done, time for the condenser. Those are Land Rover radiator mounts. Land Rover parts are great, because they are just so generic.



And it's done! What isn't shown is that the whole thing, including measuring, aligning, test fitting, etc, took about 8 hours. The end plates aren't pictured here, but they do exist.



It fits! And the bumper front frame thingy fits! The white tape is soon to be replaced with a top bracket.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Fantastic, no excuses, keep us posted.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Found some more pictures...

The oil cooler fan. It's a Dell server fan, it has a built-in PWM controller. I am using all PWM controlled fans in this project, either with integrated controller, external controller, or building a controller into the PCM.



Temperature sensor - that's a hydraulic fitting, an end cap, drilled and tapped to whatever the sensor needed (M12 I think)



Radiator bracket with end plates, painted. You can also see the "top" radiator mounts. I remember these being a huge pain in the rear end to make for some reason.



Radiator with fans installed. Those blue elbows are 90 degree, 40mm to 3/4 BSP adapters. They were about as hard to find as you can imagine. I finally found them for sale in China. I didn't want blue, but it was blue or white and I wasn't gonna pass up on those! They are just "resting" on there for now, they were epoxied in place later.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Sorry, I've been really behind with the updates. I keep thinking about doing it, then thinking about how much other stuff I have to do, and figure I'll do it later. Now it's almost a month later.

I'm going to keep the descriptions a bit shorter as I'm tight on time these days, pictures speak lots of words, feel free to ask questions and I'll get back to you!

Things I've done:

Got some fans for the Chevrolet Volt DC-DC converter, they'll mount like this.




Cooked my tail lights and added these shrouds to make them look like the later model lights. I like them.




Here's another picture of the radiator and front battery tray



I cut up some plates and made a bracket for the power steering pump. This is a TRW electro-hydraulic pump, from a Vaxuhall Astra. Probably from many other GM cars. It takes 12V (consumes about 50A at full load), and to turn it on you just give it ignition power. No messing with CAN or other proprietary systems.






I don't have any specific pictures, but I had a local hydraulics shop make me a suitable hose with fittings. Custom hydraulic hoses are are surprisingly cheap. I also bought a load of low pressure hose to use as a return line and for the transmission coolers.

I mocked up the drive shaft and had the details sent to my local driveshaft shop. I've probably got a picture of the finished shaft somewhere.

Next up is the transmission rear mount. I cut the tabs from the stock mount, added a plate with some rubber isolators:




Welded on the tabs and a skirt to add strength (it was welded on the inside, which is why it looks like poo poo on the outside). I kinda want to take this photo down cause it looks so bad, but whatever. It looked fine after grinding all the poo poo off.




These bits make up the lower part of the mount.



I wire-wheeled back some sound deadening from the inside of the floor pan, and added some extra steel to distribute the load.





A bit more welding, painting, etc, and we have a finished rear mount.




I also made a differential brace. I copied a popular online one. Only after I made it did I find out that this type of brace is meant to supplement the factory power plant frame, not run asn an independent mount. Oh well, I'll have to remake a proper mount in the future.






I also made mounts for the inverter. You can kinda see them here. I don't have any pictures of them.




There's probably a week of work in this post. The car is pretty much complete now, I only have ~100 photos, so maybe 5 replies left until we are caught up.

Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 18, 2020

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Oh man I remember the fire (and your early musings on this transmission). Just caught up on this whole thread myself.

A not-so-small part of me is imagining a single cylinder lawnmower engine hooked up to the input shaft on a centrifugal clutch. Pull in somewhere that doesn't have charging, pop the hood, pull start it, walk away while it charges.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.





Dinosaur Gum

Where did you get those shrouds? I painted my tail lights when such an option wasn't available.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Aeka 2.0 posted:

Where did you get those shrouds? I painted my tail lights when such an option wasn't available.

I got them on eBay, a guy was doing a run of them.

There is a rotary parts store in the US that has the templates/CAD files available for free. The guy I bought them from just laser cut them at home from adhesive-backed black plexiglass, and looks like he formed the shape with a heat gun.

I did save the CAD files, I've had a look but can't find them.

The shrouds were good. I wish I'd filled in the edges with black silicone as light does bleed around them slightly.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Oh man I remember the fire (and your early musings on this transmission). Just caught up on this whole thread myself.

A not-so-small part of me is imagining a single cylinder lawnmower engine hooked up to the input shaft on a centrifugal clutch. Pull in somewhere that doesn't have charging, pop the hood, pull start it, walk away while it charges.

Heh, you could totally do that. You would need to keep the input shaft locked when the car is in motion, but that could be handled with an external brake.

Wouldn't be eligible for tax relief in the UK though

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Tomarse posted:

Whats the desired ETA on getting it driving?

Just re-quoting this, I actually took it for it's first drive today! Down to the other end of my driveway for a wash (gotta get all that grinding dust off it), then back again into a freshly-cleaned garage, making things a bit more pleasant for the next steps (making it into a functional car!)

Since I'm posting, here's another quick update.




This is the gear shifter from a 2017 Toyota Auris Hybrid. All the current toyota hybrids use this electronic shifter. It actually operates like a joystick, outputting X and Y positions from 4x hall-effect sensors. Duel sensors allow for redundancy, cross checking, and real-time error detection. I spent a day designing a circuit to interface with it, and to program a function which traces the path you move it through, and determines which gear you were intending to select. Since there is no P function, I set a long hold into N to activate Park. I use all 4 sensors, to allow for fault checking (but in case of failure, there's not much I can think of doing other than show a warning), but I cheated to make life easier by converting the x axis (left/right) into a digital signal which just outputs "left" or "right". Partly because I'm out of analog inputs on the PCM, but also because I don't need to know the details.

The "B" position (straight down) is being equated to a negative accelerator pedal position, this allows regen on demand, which isn't possible from the factory brake pedal.

Anyway, let's mount it! We start with some CAD:




Looking good. As usual, I didn't photograph any of the intermediate steps....

Mounted to the factory RX7 shifter boot internal metal frame.




Enlarging the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel:




And it's done! It bolts in place, with a neoprene gasket. And yes, it only just clears the top of the transmission.




So, remember that I mentioned the "Park" ability? On the GS450h, this is achieved using a "normal" manual shifter. There is a shift position sensor mounted to the side of the transmission, and a shaft passes into the transmission to actuate the parking pawl. Same theory as a conventional automatic transmission. However, mechanically, all I care about is "park" and "not-park" - the actual gear selection is done using the Auris shifter.

So how to release the parking pawl? I spent a while looking at linear actuators, but these were generally slow, bulky, and expensive. However, a window motor from a 1998 audi A4 is only 4, and includes its own controller, with up/down relays. A bit of modifying it's controller to allow full control, welding a crank onto the output shaft, and a mounting bracket, and I'm able to put the car into and out of "park"!

As usual, no photos were taken. This is why I'm not a YouTuber.




Let's make a wiring harness for this unit. I need connectors for oil temperature, shift position, parking pawl motor, transmission solenoids, and the two motor resolvers. One picture, probably 6 hours fo work.




Let's throw it in the car! I'm pretty sure this is the last time it's going in. But not 100% sure.








Let's throw the battery frame in. Still fits!




And the wiring harness makes it into the passenger footwell, ready for connection to the PCM. Wiring has been an enormous part of the project, I worked 8-10 hour days for around 3 weeks on the wiring for this car. 200 hours sounds about right.




In fact, I'll probably cover wiring next. There's a lot to cover.

Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Apr 21, 2020

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006



Holy poo poo dude

I have a feeling when you're done it will be my new favorite project car. Awesome work man.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...

Fallen Rib

Jesus, you're nuts.


I mean that in the BEST way possible, I wish I had your motivation and skill.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.





Dinosaur Gum

I mean, whoah.

I do race wiring for a living so if you need any direction on connectors or anything let me know.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Aeka 2.0 posted:

I mean, whoah.

I do race wiring for a living so if you need any direction on connectors or anything let me know.

Damnit! This is the problem with posting from the past. The wiring is mostly done now!

I went with OEM spec connectors as far as I could, and kept to the same style that Mazda uses for many of them (mostly because I already had plenty.

I used Molex MX150 for most of the external connectors, Tesla used these on the charger which I use. I like their ease of assembly, small BOM (integrated gaskets!), and reasonable pricing.

I have the familiar Ampseal 34-pin connector for the inverter. Not a fan - I used a generic crimper and found that it was tough to get all the pin seated "home" fully, all at the same time, to engage the locking tab. Also, removing pins was a bit of a pain.

For internals, I went with Multilock 070 almost exclusively. These were already used for most of the car by Mazda. A few 040's thrown in there as well, I'd already purchased the pins for the ECU connectors.

I used Metri-Pack series connectors in a few places as well.

Using Toyota hardware meant a few unobtanium connectors which had to be joined onto my existing wiring. Not great but oh well.

My main regret is choosing to solder splices - I didn't think to just order open barrel splices on next-day. and be done with it. However, fortunately I ran new wires for most of the project, and didn't end up with many splices (probably 10-20 in total). I can always go back and replace them if they start to fail. Extensions were done using uninsulated butt crimps.

External wiring has been bundled in PVC tape, then split corrugated conduit, then wrapped in more PVC tape. Internals are just PVC all over. I recently had to rebuild a few wiring harnesses from my Corvette, and figured GM knows enough about wiring to make it work out. I wasn't a fan of them not taping over their split conduit, however, so did that to the harnesses at the time.

I made use of existing firewall penetrations, using the original rubber pass-throughs.

Every tail on the harnesses have been made a little longer than needed.

I'll do a wiring update later tonight or tomorrow or something.

Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 22, 2020

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002



Soiled Meat

I love this thread and want to see sexy wiring.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been going through a few things this month. I'll try to get something together for this thread.

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Professor of Cats
Mar 22, 2009



Pomp and Circumcized posted:

Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been going through a few things this month. I'll try to get something together for this thread.

No sweat, We aren't going anywhere either, friend.

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