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The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Minky posted:

A user named Red_McCloud on AR15.com made an awesome Blade style pistol brace that looks like the old CAR-15 stock.

Thread with lots of pics



That's pretty inventive. It sure looks the part.


Brackit posted:

I did it before, and now I'm doing it again. Mechanical this time.



Neat! Is that the new grip & trigger and trigger bar/cable/operating rod (whatever it's called) pictured there?

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Brackit
Jan 23, 2019


The Eyes Have It posted:

Neat! Is that the new grip & trigger and trigger bar/cable/operating rod (whatever it's called) pictured there?
Yeah. The trigger is going to be cable operated. The black tube helps route it around the the magazine well. Also, that's not the gun I'm going to modify, but it serves as a useful visual aid.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Oh hey the box lid prints just fine without any supports. That'll save a lot of annoyance.

I'm debating picking up a small blast cabinet this weekend and trying to media blast these to make them nice and clean.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Parts Kit posted:

Oh hey the box lid prints just fine without any supports. That'll save a lot of annoyance.

I'm debating picking up a small blast cabinet this weekend and trying to media blast these to make them nice and clean.

I printed mine with no supports and it turned out just fine. Depends on your printer and filament but since there are so many overhangs and bridging I slowed it down to 40mm/s and it came out pretty nice. Not perfect, but really good.

I needed to work the lid back and forth on the bottom section before it loosened up a bit. It's pretty tight fresh out of the printer. I added a bit of paraffin to the "rail" which helped a lot but I am not sure it was really necessary.

I think it would be boss to print it in PETG with a textured prusa build platform, but all the overhangs and bridges give me pause since PETG is so stringy. Maybe I'll try it sometime.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Here's another printable project. CZ / ZKM 451 / 452 / 455 three round 22LR Magazine - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2811936




I printed this one ages ago and it worked just fine, except that the spring wasn't great and only handled 2 rounds reliably. Probably fixable if I fiddled a little or even better - put in a metal spring. Still, it was essentially free and not a bad afternoon project.
I put it into my Norinco KKW trainer:

Elite Taco
Feb 3, 2010


I went from babby's first test print directly to cyberpunk:

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009


Elite Taco posted:

I went from babby's first test print directly to cyberpunk:



Wait holy poo poo that rules.

Please do tell more.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


The Eyes Have It posted:

I printed mine with no supports and it turned out just fine. Depends on your printer and filament but since there are so many overhangs and bridging I slowed it down to 40mm/s and it came out pretty nice. Not perfect, but really good.

I needed to work the lid back and forth on the bottom section before it loosened up a bit. It's pretty tight fresh out of the printer. I added a bit of paraffin to the "rail" which helped a lot but I am not sure it was really necessary.

I think it would be boss to print it in PETG with a textured prusa build platform, but all the overhangs and bridges give me pause since PETG is so stringy. Maybe I'll try it sometime.
Yeah there's a good bit of overhang on the main body. I may try modeling one myself that is similar but doesn't have 90degree overhangs and instead uses 45 degree ones so you can easily print it even with PETG. But that's for later.

Thanks for the heads up on the lid fit, I just started the main body so it'll be another 6 or so hours before I can try my first one.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Elite Taco posted:

I went from babby's first test print directly to cyberpunk:



Elite Taco
Feb 3, 2010


Tyro posted:

Wait holy poo poo that rules.

Please do tell more.

There's not a ton to the story. My buddy sent me the file, you guys told me how to computer, and I set the printer for PLA. Took like, 36 hours to print.

The print is very solid, but this is regular old PLA, so it is not a safe firearm, imo. I'll populate it and mount a slide to ensure function. I'll use a roll of glass-filled nylon to attempt an actual frame that I shoot.

This is not much higher in complexity than a P80 G19.

The next rabbit hole is learning actual CAD.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Well the body of the 22lr box printed perfectly, but when I tried to put on each lid I printed they cracked. Going to reattempt the lid with less perimeters and see if that allows it to flex better.

edit: yeah okay 2 perimeters helped significantly, but I swear I still heard a little crackling the very first time it went on. May try editing the STL to add a small cutout on each side so there are flexible fingers that will do the job.

Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Feb 1, 2020

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"



Fun Shoe

I have a question somewhat uniquely suited to this thread because it's plastic related -

I have some plastic bottles that have a tiny little hole in the handle. They are just cheap, three in a pack water bottles. When they go through the dishwasher, water somehow gets into the tiny hole in the handle. This makes it so a little bit of water is retained in the handle and slowly leaks out.

How is it best for me to create a hole in the handle to prevent this issue? Drill bit, hand saw, or hand tool? I don't want to ruin the things, but I also don't want one week old water slowly leaking out on my wood furniture.

Elite Taco
Feb 3, 2010


I would use a drill and get the hole at the lowest possible point and the highest point that presents in the dishwasher. That way it's got a strong chance to drain in the washer and will drain quickly once it is removed.

FILAMENT HOLDER JOB SUGGESTION:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644

I'm starting the small volume version of these to hold my glass filled filaments. Once you step off the PLA bus filaments start getting finnicky about moisture and temperature. This spool holder has room for dessicant. The small volume 1kg job can be printed on my 200x200x175. I started the first part a few minutes ago.

Elite Taco
Feb 3, 2010


Also, someone up thread mentioned a hand gun rack for a gun safe job - I would love to see it.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"



Fun Shoe

Elite Taco posted:

I would use a drill and get the hole at the lowest possible point and the highest point that presents in the dishwasher. That way it's got a strong chance to drain in the washer and will drain quickly once it is removed.

FILAMENT HOLDER JOB SUGGESTION:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644

I'm starting the small volume version of these to hold my glass filled filaments. Once you step off the PLA bus filaments start getting finnicky about moisture and temperature. This spool holder has room for dessicant. The small volume 1kg job can be printed on my 200x200x175. I started the first part a few minutes ago.

So a normal drill bit won't gently caress everything all to hell?

Cool. I'm doing that tonight.

Mortabis
Jul 8, 2010


Is there an auto-leveling printer with a second extruder under $1k?

Elite Taco
Feb 3, 2010


Captain Log posted:

So a normal drill bit won't gently caress everything all to hell?

Cool. I'm doing that tonight.

Use your smallest bit. You'll be fine.

Dip Viscous
Sep 17, 2019



These cheap looking little hand drills are awesome for gun stuff. (Honestly, it's enough for 90% of the general household stuff I do too.)



Lets you go really slowly so plastic doesn't get melted and is great for small jobs like putting sling studs or just cleaning up an existing hole slightly.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"



Fun Shoe

I've definitely got the tools to do it, I just didn't know if there was any special precautions to take. Looks like I'll be good. I just didn't want to potentially ruin three things that cost more money than none.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

Stuff like that I will use a quick release shanked drill bit in some tiny size along with a hand screwdriver. It's pretty easy to plow through plastic like that.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Elite Taco posted:

I would use a drill and get the hole at the lowest possible point and the highest point that presents in the dishwasher. That way it's got a strong chance to drain in the washer and will drain quickly once it is removed.

FILAMENT HOLDER JOB SUGGESTION:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644

I'm starting the small volume version of these to hold my glass filled filaments. Once you step off the PLA bus filaments start getting finnicky about moisture and temperature. This spool holder has room for dessicant. The small volume 1kg job can be printed on my 200x200x175. I started the first part a few minutes ago.
Desiccant alone may not be enough, nylon apparently like to really suck up the moisture. There's a food dehydrator you can buy and use for filament drying with a few mods, but I can't remember which one.

Also be aware if you're going to start printing glass filled filament you're going to have to replace your brass nozzle with something much tougher.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Mortabis posted:

Is there an auto-leveling printer with a second extruder under $1k?

Closest you might get to that right now is Zortrax's outlet shop selling their dual extruder for really cheap (but still not pocket-money cheap though) https://store.zortrax.com/outlet

It's got a smallish build volume though.

Zortrax is normally spendy stuff & you won't have compatibility with the usual hobbyist stuff out there.


Dual extruder is better than it was years ago but auto-leveling is still kind of a mixed bag and a bit of a pipe dream, to boot. Zortrax has an assisted leveling which works pretty well, and even Prusa with their mesh leveling isn't a hands-off process. In fact, since I wanted a nice clean bottom layer (as opposed to one that simply was technically attached to the bed) I still had to go through a painstaking manual process and apply a manual correction to the bed points. Prusa's leveling isn't a cure-all nor is it a hands-free road to a perfectly smooth and true bottom layer.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"



Fun Shoe

Thanks for the plastic tips, worked like a charm.

If I had the task to do over again, Id make little pilot holes by hand first. Starting a drill bit on an uneven plastic surface was difficult.

Brackit
Jan 23, 2019


RC body reamers are very useful for cutting holes or trimming plastic features in prints. Especially handy for putting a slight taper on printed screw holes to get machine screw threads to bite.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

I am looking at putting another cheek rest on a new rifle but I'm tired of dropping $65 + shipping every time I need one, so I am taking a shot at making my own.



These are usually made from kydex that is cut and formed as shown, but I wanted to try printing one.

I sort of like the idea of printing it "flat" & getting a nice textured print bed texture on the outside surface, but if I did that I'd have to heat and bend it around a mandrel and hell, if I'm doing that then what's the point of 3d printing at all?

Probably will print it in PETG but the cutouts for the bolt will be a bit tricky, maybe a few internal supports will be easy enough to handle.

Brackit
Jan 23, 2019


Most of the strength of a printed part comes from choosing the proper the orientation of the layers. Like, for that, you'd want to print it standing up on the end so that each layer is "U" shaped. Adhesion between layers is never very strong, regardless of print settings.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Yeah, it's going to be printed just as you say with the left end there sitting on the build platform.

I want to get supports only in the cutouts, but the slicer (prusaslicer in this case) really really really wants to extend supports all the way down to the base -- it seems support enforcers and blockers don't work the way I expect. I never like having thin supports go so far down and long, it's just asking for trouble.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


What printers are ya'all using out there? I feel filliment type ones are faster and appropriate for this stuff, and resin would be way too much work.

Gun stuff, among other around the house stuff would be my use case, so I am more then interested at the strength of the plastic. I am. Just getting overwhelmed with the printer propoganda and the Amazon reviews ranging from 'best on earth" to ' will probably (definitely) kill your dog' in the same review time frame

The 3d thread is huge and the first page is no more. I want to hear from the relevant parties. I have no experience except in case models decades ago, and I want something above penis shaped keychain designs only and industrial parts printer.

Dielectric
May 3, 2010


I printed some passenger train bodies with windows similar to those slots, and Cura just put supports in the window, without extending to the base. They popped out very nicely. I used the "support everywhere" option.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Prusaslicer is acting weird with them, don't know why. I'll probably just print on one of my other printers instead. My Prusa is the newest so I try to go to it to build familiarity when doing non critical stuff.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009


Roundboy posted:

What printers are ya'all using out there? I feel filliment type ones are faster and appropriate for this stuff, and resin would be way too much work.

Resin printers are reasonably simple, but for stuff on the scale/strength of usable gun stuff you'd want filament. Resin printers are good for other nerd hobbies if you do miniature wargaming, say. Even using high strength/flexibility resin like Siraya Blu parts can be kind of fragile.

Today I decided to jump into the filament printer arena myself and ordered an Ender 3 Pro... and racking up about half again the price in upgrades as you do.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


Resin seems stronger overall, but the extra work involved seems like something I don't really need for what I want to do.

I understand filliment also needs some finish work, but that is acceptable. I am getting force fed info on heated baseplates, filliment feeders, preheaters, break alarms, resume, etc that all models are seemingly ending up the same

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


The Eyes Have It posted:

Prusaslicer is acting weird with them, don't know why. I'll probably just print on one of my other printers instead. My Prusa is the newest so I try to go to it to build familiarity when doing non critical stuff.
I use an old version of Prusaslicer (old enough that it's Slic3r Prusa Edition) and there are two support settings -- Everywhere and Build Plate Only. Double check that they didn't carry that over. If Build Plate Only is selected it wouldn't generate support in those slots.

Roundboy posted:

What printers are ya'all using out there? I feel filliment type ones are faster and appropriate for this stuff, and resin would be way too much work.
I use a Prusa Mk3, which has been great. Started on a Monoprice Mini and it was...servicable-ish.

The Prusa can take just about any filament on the market, though for a couple of cases you may want a hardened nozzle (anything abrasive like carbon fiber fill) or an enclosure (ABS).

darnon
Nov 8, 2009


Roundboy posted:

Resin seems stronger overall, but the extra work involved seems like something I don't really need for what I want to do.

Not really. You don't get some of the potential delamination like filament since the resin cures to itself pretty good, but it's ultimately very fragile stuff. The postprocessing isn't bad; swish in some isopropyl or Simple Green, rinse, and cure a bit more in the sun or UV source. PPE is more of a concern though there are non-toxic resins out now (if you trust Chinese declarations of such). Otherwise wear gloves, safety glasses, and maybe a respirator as well as vent or filter the printer exhaust.

darnon fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Feb 6, 2020

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Parts Kit posted:

I use an old version of Prusaslicer (old enough that it's Slic3r Prusa Edition) and there are two support settings -- Everywhere and Build Plate Only. Double check that they didn't carry that over. If Build Plate Only is selected it wouldn't generate support in those slots.

The problem is that this is what I want:




But this is what it wants to make in virtually any mixture of any of the options, support enforcers, blockers, etc.




To get the first picture's result -- the product of endless trial and error -- I ended up with this tangled mix of enforcers and blockers.



But even this was tweaked just so to get the slicer to do what I wanted. Tweaking one box or another a bit to the side results in supports all the way to the build plate popping up.


I think this model might be an edge case because I tried to research exactly how it all gets interpreted and no one else really seems to have my problem.


In general though after all my trial and error fiddling the support enforcers in prusa slicer, I think that support enforcers are interpreted mainly from the perspective of "overhang sections of the model covered by the enforcer get supports for sure" as opposed to "support structures are only permitted to exist if they also intersect this volume". Even so it's fiddly for this model.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Roundboy posted:

What printers are ya'all using out there? I feel filliment type ones are faster and appropriate for this stuff, and resin would be way too much work.

Filament printers are versatile and cheap to run and learn on. In the first post of this thread I point people to a prusa if they can afford it in part because of their quality but also because of their documentation and support. They're more expensive than the average one you'll see on ebay or amazon however.

Resin printers involve working with messy stuff and the resin is more expensive than filament for sure. Hobby resin printers do a good job of very small objects that need detail and nice surface fininsh, but the tradeoff is lots of supports to deal with and messy (and possibly smelly) materials and cleanup. The current sweet spot is gaming miniatures and similar little plastic detailed parts that people don't mind treating like model pieces needing a certain amount of manual care and finishing.

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.


The Eyes Have It posted:


but auto-leveling is still kind of a mixed bag and a bit of a pipe dream...


Way late to this convo and just adding my opinion to the bed leveling but...

Installed an EZABL pro on my ender to auto level and holy poo poo is it great. Replaced the previous spring tensioners that controlled bed leveling with solid mounts. Once I got the EZABL dialed in it's been great.

Now I dunno if you have a different use case but for my hobby printing I have no complaints.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


The Eyes Have It posted:

The problem is that this is what I want:




Oh, that nonsense. Yeah if you find a solution to that let me know, I find it annoying too.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009


In that case it's probably easier just to just manually model in some supports to help it bridge and then snip them out.

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Brackit
Jan 23, 2019


Parts Kit posted:

Oh, that nonsense. Yeah if you find a solution to that let me know, I find it annoying too.
"Support horizontal expansion" is the option you're looking for. Try setting it to zero, or a small negative value.

E: I use a variant of Cura for my slicing. I took a look around Prusaslicer and couldn't figure out what the equivalent setting was.

Brackit fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Feb 7, 2020

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