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The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

It begins to soften at 60C, though the "melting" point is quite a bit higher.

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Ya I didn't mean literally melt, I meant soften and deform. Basically I'm saying that I don't think you want it contacting the barrel.

Piss Meridian
Mar 25, 2020


standard jet fuel - steel beam interaction

unknonymous
May 16, 2013



Came up with I thought would be an elegant way to tighten up the clamp on that mag tube picatinny. I revised it with two M5 nuts and M5 set screws that would screw in perpendicular to the picatinny side and push blocks that match the curve of the mag tube in order to snug it up, kind of like using a non-marring set screw. Below is a cross section of the part showing where the M5 nut rests and the hole the block would sit in. Didn't really work in practice but I liked the idea. In the new version the sides are slightly thicker and get nearer to the barrel. Additionally, the gap between the main body and sides was reduced as previously it was to allow the sides to screw in farther and flex out in an effort to clamp tighter, however in the revision I was relying on the set screw blocks to add tension. The total rotation is cut way down just because there's less clearance to the barrel and it does feel moderately more difficult to rotate it around. The excessive clamping force on the sides in the previous one cracked the PETG in a few days so even though it didn't work as well as hoped, it's still a better design just for the longevity.

It might still work with some modifications. Probably the best thing to do would be to take out the captive nuts for the side pieces and use sex bolts instead. Possibly remove the middle screw altogether and make the set screw block one larger, continuous piece. For all I know the bike inner tube is just not enough friction and it should be changed out for grip tape.

CommanderApaul
Aug 30, 2003

It's amazing their hands can support such awesome.


Well, I tried (and failed) to build an AR off of a couple of 3D printed lower receivers. Both of them had the slot for the mag catch slightly out of spec, and the forward takedown pin hole was far enough forward that the rear would not engage, and there was about ~3/32" gap between the rear of the upper and the buffer tower. Probably ok if I reamed out the front hole to be a bit oblong, but didn't want to mess with it anymore. The buffer tube threads on both of them were serviceable though, which was where I thought the problem was going to be. So I hit up the LGS and they had a single Anderson lower in stock among the random assortment of Spike's lowers, including a color filed Unicorn that, to be honest, I would have been OK with taking back the term "Libtard" on if it wasn't almost 3x the cost of the Anderson.

I did end up 3D printing the BAD lever though. No bolts, it just slides overtop of the bolt release paddle, with a bit of tapping from a small deadblow mallet. Finished product and two lovely lowers below. Might try using the one on the left as a .22 AR build in the future, I really don't want to throw them out.



Got the Form1 back for my suppressor, and I'm waiting on the kids going out of town in a couple weeks to run out and get it engraved while I wait.

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