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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Awesome, thanks for this.

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



This is maybe a bit advanced for that thread, but I know a fair number of BP cartridge shooters who load with smokeless but light enough charges so that the pressures don't exceed BP pressure. If you've got any insights into calibrating that so you don't explode your gun that would be cool.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Rodenthar Drothman posted:

Okay. I've been hemming and hawing about getting a safe for my 3 long guns recently, and I think I'll do it this year.

My dad keeps trying to sell me on some fancy-pants Vaultek Safe, with fingerprint scanning, a thermometer, and this thing in the stock that tells time. I'm not sold, it looks flimsy and like I'd be able to pry it open. Anyone heard of them before?

Note: they each have their own nice locks on them, I just have them "hidden". It's dumb and bad and I'll fix it. Help me fix it.

I mean, I don't think I've ever seen anything about them one way or the other but just based on the name I think your guns will be subjected to terrifying psychological experimentation and torture and eventually leave a series of audio logs for the person who discovers their vault.

edit: and I know this is the newbie thread and I know I'm a bad person for not serious posting in the newbie thread but goddamn I'm going to be the despot you all know I am and invoke mod privilege on this one because holy poo poo that name.

edit 2: just get a basic safe with a mechanical lock electronic stuff is generally poorly regarded

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



What do you want it for? Hunting? Target shooting? Self defense?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Honestly? You're going to have a hard time beating an AR.

I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say you don't want something that's "point and shoot."

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



madeintaipei posted:

FWIW, after the last time I bought from them I got tons of scam calls and emails. Use privacy.com. That goes for Palmetto State Arms (PSA) as well. You can get probated here in TFR for mentioning something on their site without linking privacy.com.

Just FYI thatís a punishment thatís never actually been used and I wouldnít spring it on a newbie who has no idea.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Cyrano4747 posted:

Just FYI thatís a punishment thatís never actually been used and I wouldnít spring it on a newbie who has no idea.

That said I reserve the right to be snarky when reminding people but frankly goons to that for me most of the time.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



rump buttman posted:

Right on.

On a different topic, what pocket guns do you grey haired goons recommend?

Iíve never carried and mostly want a pistol I can wear around the shop on my own propery. I am not looking to carry in public. My wife has a glock 19 and Iíd want something thinner, lighter and smaller. When I shot with her family, I had the opportunity to shoot some different pistols. I didnít really like shooting snub-nose revolvers. I was an awful shot with them.

What guns should I try out? Glock 42/43? Are kahrs reliable guns? (My Brother in law has a Kahr and I liked shooting it.)

What do you mean by a "pocket gun?" Are you going to be actually pocket carrying? Carrying IWB? OWB?

Most of the truly tiny guns make some pretty big compromises to get to a point where you can slip it into a pocket, which is part of what you're seeing with the snub nosed revolvers. If you just want something a bit smaller for OWB carry on your own property, you might look into a single stack that's not quite as big as a duty pistol.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



I just inspect mine for signs of abuse or damage and fire the first round from the hip.

edit: I"ll check headspace if the bolt doesn't match the receiver.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Captain Log posted:

Loading mags at the range, especially a noisy indoor range, is a bitch.

If you can show up with loaded mags, you'll spend more time shooting. I have a minimum of three per gun, with the exception of my LCP. I think I have seven for my G19. I'd bet some of the comp shooters here have over a dozen.

(Of course I joined a range that doesn't let you bring in pre-loaded mags.)

At an indoor range it sucks. On the rare occasion that I need to go to one of those I load everything I'm going to shoot.

But at an outdoor range where you can just chill and get some fresh air? I do not mind at all thumbing rounds into a mag while sitting at a bench. If I'm shooting outdoors I'll usually just bring one mag with me if it's a gun and mag I know well (i.e. I know they're reliable together) or maybe 2 or 3 if its' a new gun or I'm working a new mag into the rotation.

I've got a whole box just full of mags that I bought because hey more mags more better that I've never even loaded.

. . . I think there's G43 mag in there. Rifle, not pistol.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Just clean it.

Oily gun is pretty normal

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



my kinda ape posted:

Seconding Boretech Eliminator for a cleaning solvent. For wiping down small amounts of gunk and just oiling an entire gun to prevent rust I really like the Hoppes oil wipes. They come in a plastic container that holds like 60 and you can oil every surface on a pistol with one and a rifle with 1-2. I use Slip2000 EWL 30 or their grease for stuff that needs a more substantial lube.

Oh yeah boretech is some good poo poo. It also doesnít smell like kerosene which is a plus if you live with someone who doesnít like petrochemical smells.

Their copper removal stuff is also great.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Define ďsingle shotĒ. Are you allowed bolt actions?

Because iirc you guys get the Tula TOZ rifles down there and theyíre great little target rifles for the price. Iíve got one of the few Iíve ever seen in the US and itís a joy.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Focus on the front sight. Your target will be slightly blurry but thatís fine.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



W. D. Basterd posted:

What's the best gun for shooting horses? My brother keeps getting his horses injured and is too afraid to "Do the deed"

Pretty much anything will do the job if you are able to get at touching distance and place it properly.

Have you or your brother ever euthanized an animal before? Because there's more to it than just putting bullets in until the kicking stops.

If you don't know how to humanely euthanize an animal as large as a horse you should really, really contact a vet or at the very least a nearby farmer who knows what they're doing in that regard.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Any sporting goods store too. Dicks and the like, even if theyíre trying to get rid of the outdoors/ hunting section.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Craptacular posted:

I think the likeliest "solution" would be to regulate upper receivers too. Big win for us, yay!

The issue there would be that the upper and lower are two parts, neither of which meet the definition of a receiver. The fact that a LOT of modern guns have split receivers that donít meet that definition is also kind of there.

Really what they need to do is actually redefine what the ďgunĒ part of a gun is. That would require some new rules about what gets serials and probably lead to a whole new situation like the pre-68 guns without SNs though.

Personally Iíve always thought the bolt (or breach block - basically the bit that seals the chamber) is the most logical part to regulate. Itís a headache when it comes to replacing a hosed one but really thatís not something that can be avoided if youíre taking the idea of it being the core of the gun seriously. The pressure bearing components are the must haves. Anything else is pretty fungible.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Gunshow Poophole posted:

if I'm gettin a semi auto 308 in the dumb state (ny) and I have the same price on both which should I get a bar mk3 dbm or a m1a loaded

Tyvm

What's your budget? There are other semi-auto .308 options besides those two that might still be NY legal.

Insert comedy SL7 recommendation here, but seriously if you're looking to drop more than $1k there are other traditional stocked options besides those two.

Alternatively does it have to be in .308? Garands are an option as well.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



As a tip any time youíre looking at a newbie gun look and see what the holster selection is like. Compare that to something stupidly common like a glock.

It doesnít tell the whole story but itís a good litmus test.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Lumbermouth posted:

Does anyone have any good videos or resources about zeroing in a rifle? I'm trying my best to follow along with the discussion and don't know where to begin.

Ok, at its most basic it's as simple as shooting a target and then adjusting the sights so that the point of aim is equal to the point of impact, and then doing it again. So fire three shots and you're 3 inches to the right and two down? Well adjust the sights, try again. Three more shots and now you're 1 down 1 left? Adjust again, repeat until you're reliably on paper.

The issue you're probably having not following is when people talk about things like a 50/200 zero. Bullets travel in an arc when shot. As soon as they leave the barrel gravity starts to act on them, pulling them down towards the earth. If you're aiming dead center on a target that's 100 yards away your bullet will actually hit slightly below that. So, each zero has a distance at which it is right on. A 100 yard zero is actually aiming the gun slightly up so that the bullet will be right on the point of aim at 100 yards. Closer than 100 yards and it will be higher on the target, further than 100 yards and it will be lower.

At this point since you're shooting upwards slightly your bullet is actually describing a rainbow shape in the air. This means that for a set height on the target there are two distances where it will intersect (unless you're zeroed at the apex of the rainbow), once on the upward point of the arc and once when it's coming down. Where those distances are will depend on the specific bullet, and even the specific loading. For a lot of .223 loadings it so happens that a gun zeroed at 50 yards will also be zeroed at 200 yards, hence the "50/200 zero" nomenclature. This is really common for people who want a practical zero.

Here's a graph that shows this with .223.



Unfortunately I don't know what the exact load they were using there was (that was a fast GIS for the purposes of this explanation) but note that it isn't right on at 200. Any zero is going to be dependent on stuff like how hot the bullet is loaded, what the bullet itself weighs, etc. That said, if you're zeroed at 50/200 with bulk 55gr you'll be close enough with nice 55gr. Not right on, but in the ballpark.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Try mortaring it open.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Anonymous Robot posted:

That did the trick, thanks. I am going to cycle this action with snap caps a lot more before I trust it with a live cartridge.

FWIW there are huge differences between hand cycling and firing. Getting a snap cap stuck doesnít really imply that it wonít feed with real ammo.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Anonymous Robot posted:

I did buy a .223, I just misread the manual initially because itís a manual for the mini-14 and mini-30. The .223 I bought doesnít feed because it just doesnít, apparently. Another brand feeds fine.

Donít take this the wrong way, just mentioning it because newbie thread and youíve talked about feed problems with live rounds.

Please be very careful finger loving your gun with live ammo in it. That is how NDs happen and you donít want to put a round into your neighbor. Once upon a time I checked feeding that way too but the longer Iím around guns the less Iím willing to do that. These days if itís not a HD weapon* I donít chamber anything live off the range.

*note that any gun I might use for HD has been fully vetted for reliability and function by shooting it at a range.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



It could just be a tight but in spec chamber. Again the proof is going to be how it cycles when fired. Semi autos can be finicky when hand cycled. Theyíre not bolt actions and really arenít designed to be run that way.

If it doesnít cycle at the range that is a big problem but I wouldnít think the world is ending if it is malfing on snap caps. Hell we donít even know for sure that the snap caps are in-spec.

Note that this is also why you should test fire a gun soon after getting it. If itís hosed itís a lot easier to deal with that a week or a month after buying than a year.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



No I wouldnít shoot that. I doubt it would ignite (primer is in sideways) but if it did youíre going to have gasses leaking out the back there. Now itís not going to blow up or anything but Iíd be willing to bet the primer comes out of the pocket and that can lead to some nasty jams.

Anonymous Robot posted:

Yeah, it really does seem to come down to the brand of .223/5.56 ammunition. It works like a dream with snap caps and one, particularly short, brand of live .556 (PMC X-TAC). (To note, Cyrano, I cede your point about chambering live ammunition in the home. It isnít something I usually do either, but this is supposed to be a HD weapon and due to covid and there being very few non-handgun caliber ranges where I live, Iím unlikely to be able to get to a range for months at best.)

Iím going to have to try and find what the common wisdom re: brands of ammunition a Mini-14 will cycle. I canít even seat the magazine properly with this Frontier/Hornady or PPU.

Take a pic of the mag with the PPU in it. Prvi doesnít make a crazy long round or anything. Can you tell what itís getting caught on when you try to load it? Will it load with a partially empty mag? What about with the bolt out of the gun?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



To clarify 5 is the max in that mag because Cali, right?

See how it works at the range but right now Iím wondering if itís a mag issue. Low cap mags arenít known for being as well made as their normal capacity versions.

If itís a 5 rounder is it a shorter mag or a normal one thatís been pinned or otherwise fixed for CA?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Ah MA. Thought you were CA. Only a letter off I guess.

If you have mags in the mail Iíd wait and test those. Mags are a huge failure point for semi autos.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Do you have a SIG spring tool? IIRC one of the springs in there (hammer spring? main spring?) is a royal motherfucker to get in and out without one. I know because I swapped springs on my P225 ages ago (like. . . 2008 or so) and borrowed the tool from some goon who made it in his shop.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Owlbear Camus posted:

I've been saving my .458 SOCOM brass because I figure someone will want it, but I don't really want to get into reloading myself. Is there a site or something that is good for reselling fired brass?

Get an invite to the TFR classifieds google group (stickied on the first page) and list it there. Make a mention in the reloading thread when you do so people know itís there.

Check the price of brass online. You want to find ďonce firedĒ prices and probably want it to be a bit cheaper than that to make it worth buying bras from an internet person rather than a website.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



I stand by my statement as issued

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



ChuckDeNomolos posted:

I just bought a VP9, and I'm looking for a decent cleaning kit. Since I'm fairly new, I don't know which brands I should shy away from in terms of quality/don't just purchase what ever's sponsored on Amazon or eBay. Anyone have any suggestions?

Edit: Does anyone here have experience with hkparts.net, any issues with their parts or customer service? Are they trustworthy or just overpricing stuff I could get at a better elsewhere?

Honestly? Most kits are kind of garbage but they work. If it's your first gun don't worry too much about it. Just get a basic pistol cleaning kit for the caliber you have and start using it. You'll blow through the consumable items (the patches and the cleaning solution) but figure out the basics of how to clean and oil your gun, and then you can buy nicer stuff to replace that.

Here, if I were getting a kit for a 9mm pistol today this is what I'd grab.

This kit.

[url=https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Bore-Cleaner-Bottle/dp/B0010KHNEU/ref=pd_bxgy_3/131-5314536-5556023]this cleaner


This oil

And these patches. I dunno if this is going to stay with the right selection, but for a 9mm you want the 2 inch square patches and the 250 count bag will be plenty for now.

That will be enough for you to figure out what you're doing and from then you can join the rest of us in trying to find the perfect cleaning solution or get into bore snakes etc.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



How are those. Iíve been half eyeballing them for a while but Iíve already got all my other cleaning gear and theyíre more expensive then just buying patches.

Now that I think about I I need to get set up for a larger caliber than I have jags etc for . . .

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



CainFortea posted:

If by "those" you mean the applicators? They work really well. Especially getting into corners. You can choke up on it and really scrub the gunk out with the tip. Or i've broken the wooden bit and used the sharp point to scrape corners out and finish with the tip.

Or if you mean the ultrasonic cleaner, it's amazing. I would recommend getting one with a plastic basket though, because I have one with a metal basket and it goofs up how it looks since it's metal on metal. Nothing has gone wrong with it, and right now i'm using it to clean my brass but the brass looks weird where it touches the metal basket.

Ah, my bad. I was on my phone and only glanced at the applicators. I thought they were these things.

I'm also thinking ultrasonic cleaners for brass too. Which model are you using? (Can take this to another thread if you want, it's not quite newbie-ish).

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Are you trying to get a CHL or just whatever NYCís ownership permit thing is?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



You can clean a garand with a rod just fine. Just go muzzle to breach. No it wonít destroy your gun.

If youíre really worried wipe the inside of the chamber with a qtip or something when youíre done.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Can they take 500 foreends?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Yeah. Remans can be sketchy too.

I reload my own ammo. I trust myself not to explode a gun and if I do hey thatís on me.

I do not trust someone elseís loads or reman manufacturers.

Think of it this way. How much did your gun cost? How much is your insurance deductible? How much do you value having fingers and eyes?

If a factory new box of WWB KBís my gun and I end up short a rifle, some fingats, and an eye Iím pretty sure Winchester has the means to make me (financially) whole.

Some random reman company? Doubt it.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



CainFortea posted:

Election gun buying panic if Biden wins. But given how things are standing right now in the gun supply department I don't see that getting unfucked by november anyway.

Nah itíll be worse if Biden wins. The corona / protest / etc panic buyers are a pretty different group then the ďoh gently caress DemocratsĒ panic buyers. Lots of first times owners and the like.

I mean supply chains are hosed now, youíre right, but putting all that extra demand on already ducked chains is just going to drive prices etc higher.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Yeah. The corrosive primers will rust your barrel if you donít clean right after the range trip. Your gas system too, if itís a semi auto, which is annoying as hell in something like an AK.

Itís mostly a problem with older, surplus ammo

Edit: whole lot of rusty 5.54 AKs around here 10 years back.

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Oh yeah id you donít reload boxed vs berdan is solid who cares territory.

Reloading steel is possible but really not worth bothering with short of skynet scouring humanity from radioactive ruble.

They label it just because itís an expected thing to tell the customer.

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